FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

I   have a FC with a 350 chev.  Hadfield extractors and Hadfield front mount rack and pinion steering.
I have installed a VT Disc brake  conversion kit  from Hopper Stopper. I am now faced with a wheel clearance problem.
I can not find a set of wheels to suit this conversion

The 15 inch commodore rims hit the tie rods.
To temporally over come the problem I have placed 3/4 inch spacers between  the steering arm and the stub.  I have also  placed a set of wheel spacer between the rims and the discs.

The only real solution I can come up with is getting a set of custom wheels made. Which is expensive, if possible I would like to avoid.

Has anyone else come across this problem before?
I have been in contact with the Rod Shop and Hopper Stoppers, niether have a solution for me.

we had a very similar problem, in the end we ended up going with the custom wheels....

Different setup, but similar problem with mine, I just stuck with the spacers on the steering arms. As long as the spacers are made properly and high tensile bolts are used, there shouldn't be a problem.
I went the custom route before this, getting a set of steelies reset to what should have worked and the tyres rubbed the guards badly and this was with a 185 tyre  ::).

The other solution is to go back to stock HR tie steering arms not the bent Hadfield ones, this gives you the clearance.

I am very dissapointed with the Hadfield front end and am endeavouring to change it asap. The turning circle is crap and scrubs both sides of the front wheels.

However the brake conversion from Hopper Stoppers is A+++, they put out a fine product.

There has to be an easier way.

Jason

Check out Pat Gardiners new frontends, they look a treat. I think they are about $4500 or so.

                        Cheers, Glenn

I should say that I've had no experience with front mounted racks but something that may help:
Could you try early Torana steering arms?
They are shorter than HR so may help wth rim clearance?
Are they normally front mounted, so may be closer to the geometry you need?
The hole for the tie-rod may need to be reamed out for the rod-ends?
Being shorter they should allow for more lock, but will be heavier to turn.
I do know they work on my rear-mounted rack.
???

pat gardiners conversion that he done on my van was far fron acceptable i had to re weld the plate under the hr  front end extractors that he made a crap and look like a back yard effort
just my two bobs worth that conversion is now going into my ute and im going to get a rods rack conversion done for the van

cheers fatboy

OHND

what steering arm are you using?

Spacing the steering arm is probably the best way to move it away from the rim.

Ken

Thanks for the replies.
Ken I am  using the hadfield bent steering arms at the moment.
I have tried a pair of original steering arms , but found the tie rod end boot  was hitting  the sway bar mount on the lower wish bone.

The other problem I have encountered is the tyre hitting the extractors on full lock.  Spacing the steering arm does resolve this.  However this further limits the crappy  turning circle.

SGO The torana steering arm change  is a great idea. The tie rod ends might sit inside the rim. However depending  on the bend radius  of the arms , this  might not prevent  the tyres hitting the extractors.

Thanks for the "heads-up" SGO, that might cure my steering lock probs, and with the HR column ratio it shouldn't be too hard to steer either.

 SGO , what model torana are the steering arms off ? I have a rear mounted rack on my car , it is a pat gardner conversion and i am pretty happy with the way it drives and the turning circle is good. The problem I have is that the calipers foul on the crossmember on full lock.

i agree,

Unwarranted and libelous comments REMOVED by stinky (MOD)

Blacky, calipers hitting the crossmember is a sign of good lock ;)
The lip around the bottom of the spring towers on the crossmember should be removed and welded up to give clearance on full droop.
The verticle edges of the upper wishbone can be re-shaped inwards (with a big hammer :o ) to give clearance on full re-bound.
These tweeks will help get all the lock you can squeeze in.
I'm not sure of which Torana my steering arms came off, but I assumed it was the XU-1 type model??

LH or LX Torana and I think UC as well all had the same steering arm which is the one you should use.

Ken