FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

OK Brains trust. I have been working on the lights. I replaced the light switch with one from rares. Still no lights. Put an old one on and had highbeam only. and no high beam indicator light. Testing pointed to the dimmer switch. Ordered a new one... then found 2 in my stash!!. Replaced the dimmer switch and bingo. All lights work and so does the highbeam light. Now the generator light comes on all the time even with ignition off. I unhooked what i had hooked up and the gen light is still on?? WTF could i have done??
Nick

Are the tell-tale lamps in their correct sockets: brown wire to GEN, dark blue wire to OIL, dark green wire to TEMP?

The GEN light is only supposed to come on when the ignition's on.  But the GEN light is on, always.  If the ignition circuit is getting power always, then the OIL lamp should be on, and the ignition coil will be getting power. So -

Is the OIL light on as well?  Do you have +12 V at the coil positive terminal, even with the ignition off?

Always disconnect the battery negative lead before working on the car's wiring.

As a first step, I would suggest disconnecting both red wires from the light switch.  Tape up the wire terminals to avoid letting the magic smoke out when reconnecting the battery.   Reconnect the battery.  Does the GEN light come on?

Rob

Hi Rob,
The tell tale lamps are in the right sockets.
No oil light just the gen light. I don't have power at the coil when the ignition is off.
Disconnected the power wires from the light switch and the gen light is still on.
??

The plot thickens.

Is your charging system as per the shop manual - do you have a generator and regulator?  Or has an alternator been fitted?

The next questions assume you have a generator, and that the red wires are still disconnected from the light switch.

Disconnect the pink wire from the IGN terminal of the ignition switch.  Reconnect battery.  Does the GEN lamp light up?  If yes, then -

Disconnect the brown wires (D+) from both the regulator and generator.   Reconnect battery.  Does the GEN lamp light up?  If yes, then -

Measure the voltage at the (now disconnected) pink IGN wire and the brown (D+) wire.  Do you get +12 V at either?

Rob

Hi Rob,
Yes it is charging. I have a volt gauge and its reading a charge.
I disconnected the pink wire from the ignition switch and the gen light still came on. I then disconnected the D+ wire from gen and reg. Light OFF?

Regulator is hot

Disconnect the fat red B+ wire from the regulator and tape over the fork terminal so it won't short to ground.  Reconnect battery.  Is the GEN light off?

Then, lightly touch the brown wire to the D+ terminal of the generator.  A loud splat and a bright spark are bad.  If you can make the connection without fireworks, check the GEN light again.  Is it on?

Rob

with everything else off or back wired up?

Hey Rob,
with everything connected back up and disconnecting the red lead to the regulator Gen light goes off.
connect back the red wire and a little spark, not much and the gen light came on. Faulty regulator???

Yep.  Regulator unhappy.

Inspect the wiring at the regulator and generator for signs of overheating: melted or charred insulation, exposed wires, that sort of thing.  If it looks OK, then -

Reconnect the power wires to the light switch.  Reconnect the pink wire to the IGN terminal of the ignition switch.  Leave the regulator completely disconnected.  Reconnect the brown wire to the D+ terminal of the generator.  Reconnect the battery.  There should be no sparking as you connect the battery.  GEN light off?  Good.  Turn the ignition on.  OIL and GEN lights on, power at the coil (+) terminal?  Good.

If OIL light on and power at coil (+), but no GEN light, turn ignition off.  Disconnect brown wire from D+ terminal of generator and connect it to the generator body - there's a screw right by the D+ and DF terminals for this.  Turn ignition on.  GEN light on?

Rob

Hey Rob,
Regulator disconnected . all else wired up. No Gen light . Oil and gen when ignition on.
Nick

Nick,

Bonus.  If you're brave, I can run you through a quick test to see if the generator's still OK.  GEN light on with ignition on is a good sign, though.  But first - Lucas or Bosch?

Rob

(PS - Send me your regulator.  I'll see whether it can be saved, and if not, I have many spares.)

Lucas

Well I think . It has no markings on it . I have lucas lights

The regulator will tell you.  Lucas regulators have an aluminium cover.  Bosch regulators have a black cover.  In either case they have the maker's name stamped into them.

Looks aftermarket. ECHLID.

Black cover. Not like my bosch one . Not stamped.

(https://i.postimg.cc/crCW6Rfj/image.jpg) ($2)

Echlin.  That'll be an aftermarket Lucas replacement.

A photo of the rear of the generator would be enormously helpful, just to confirm identity . . .

(https://i.postimg.cc/mc2yGgvQ/image.jpg) ($2)

Sorry.  Generator.  Take a photo of the left side of the engine, from the exhaust looking forward so I can see the generator.

(https://i.postimg.cc/wy9rszR2/image.jpg) ($2)

Pretty sure it's a Lucas

Not what I was expecting - Bosch, originally from an EH.

To see if the generator's in working order,

Take the fan belt off.  Give the generator pulley a spin with your fingers to make sure it turns freely.
Connect the blue "F" wire to ground at the regulator: clamp the fork terminal under one of the regulator mounting screws.
Disconnect the battery positive, leaving negative connected.
Disconnect the brown wire from the generator's D+ terminal.
This is where you need to be a good shot with a jumper lead: connect to the D terminal of the generator, making sure the clamp touches nothing else.
Connect the free end of the jumper lead to the battery (+).

The generator should turn over slowly, in the same direction as the engine drives it: clockwise as seen from the front.

Rob

turned a fraction then nothing.

Could it be a Lucas regulator and a bosch generator??

That's not good.  Does the pulley spin freely?

If you're keen, take the generator and battery out of the car, and repeat the test on the bench.

You'll need a pair of jumper leads and a length of wire.
Connect the DF terminal to the ground terminal (the one where the black wire goes).
Connect the black jumper lead from battery (-) to the frame of the generator, where the adjusting bolt goes.
Connect the red jumper lead to the D+ terminal, and the free end of the red jumper lead to the battery (+).

Generator should spin.

Rob

Bosch generator with Lucas regulator will not charge at all.  It's got to do with how the two generators are wired internally.

Hey Rob,
It spins out of the car.

That's good.  Your generator's basically OK, then.

You need to find a Bosch regulator for an EH.  They look very similar to FC-EK Bosch regulators, but have 25 AMP and RS/UA200/12A49 stamped on one mounting tab, GMH No 7417355 on the other.  I've only got one a.t.m., and I don't want to part with it.

You say you have a Bosch regulator.  Post a photo of its underside, and I'll tell you whether it's for an EH or not.

Rob

(https://i.postimg.cc/D8SwQRK1/image.jpg) ($2)

RS/UA160/42/36

That's the earlier FC-EK type.

On the underside view, there are three resistors (the little cylinders).  In an EH regulator, the one at the top, left of centre is a rectangle shape, about 30 mm x 25 mm.  That's the easiest way to identify an EH regulator.

Put the call out over the forum, and see whether somebody's got one they're willing to part with.

Rob

(https://i.postimg.cc/BtLxbYww/image.jpg) ($2)
This one?
So my issue is a incompatible regulator and genny
They worked together for years??

That's the one.

I wouldn't say incompatible regulator and generator so much as your replacement regulator decided to give trouble . . .

Be aware that the Echlin regulator has a different terminal layout from the Bosch one.  If your wiring harness is original, it'll "remember" the Bosch connections.

Brown wire to D+, blue wire to DF (in the middle), red wire to B+.

Rob

Thanks Heaps Rob.