FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Hello, I have a fully rebuilt FE numbered motor (in an FC).  Post rebuild have discovered a crack in the block between 1 and 2 (front) exhaust outlet.  Not yet determined how repairable.  The FE block is bored to 138 with new STD pistons.  Otherwise the motor is stock but refurbished.  If on inspection I require a new block I have access to an EJ and an FB numbered motor.  My question is, 'Are those EJ and FB motor innards (block) able to receive the refurbished parts from my FE motor fully?'  E.g. transferable crank, heads mate etc.

Thank you, Rodger

Rodger,

Short answer: yes.  I'd recommend the EJ block.*  But: the cylinder bores would need to be standard size, and in really good condition (<0.005" wear) to accept the pistons from your present motor.

The crack in the crankcase makes your L-series block bin-worthy.  It's not an economic proposition to repair it.

Your other option is to seek out another L-series block and get it bored to suit your pistons.

Rob

*The EJ blocks have stronger main bearing caps, long dipstick with tube, and better sealing of the front engine plate to the block.  Use the J-block complete with its front engine plate and timing cover for best results.  An EJ distributor is recommended if you're keeping the long dipstick.  And while you're at it, the "improved cooling" head gasket would be a good idea.

I agree with Rob, it’s probably going to be easier to get another FE FC block and have it bored to suit your pistons. The chances of finding a good standard bore 138 that only needs a hone are pretty low. There are some changes to the front engine plate re oil feed holes, so these need to be checked carefully if you swap them.

Ken

Thank you Rob and Ken.  Exactly the information I need to read. 
Amongst the J and B motors today was an L block (fc numbers).  Which is good as I have an FC (albeit with frenched in EH tail lights - 70's mod.) 

I overlooked the L motor today as the head and sump were gone and the block was exposed along with the crank, and pistons still in bore etc.  I thought the L block might be too far gone.  It has been long in a dry shed mind you.  I am sure the fellow wouldn't mind me picking up the L if there is the likelihood it might be ok given to good restorative hands. 

My preference would be to match the L motor to the car for posterity.

Question Rob.  The EJ dipstick length was for bringing the opening closer to the customer (via tube length) and not because anything had changed in the sump or the block?  So not about a wrong reading of oil depth?  Could use the short dipstick and FC distributor but the long tube would tangle up being the issue? 

I note the other points on the oil feed at front and improved cooling gasket.

Thank you
Rodger

 

 

Hi Rodger,

Bugger! Ken and Rob will correct me but I think the area which you describe as having a crack is an area that if the block is going to crack, it will be in this location. I was going to say common but I don't think that would be fair. However, I had to discard a block as it cracked in the same location that you have expericenced.

All the best.

Cheers  Rod

Rodger,

Me too.  The FC I'm fixing has a crack in the block, on the left, between 1 and 2.  And it's an otherwise healthy L motor.

My "other" FC has a J-motor, but short dipstick and no tube.  You can remove the tube from a J-block and use the early dipstick and distributor if you wish.  EJ sumps are different from the earlier models (circular mark pressed into the sump for identification).  You can use an EJ sump in earlier models, but not the other way around.  I think.

Rob

Thanks men, good (sort of) to know the crack is somewhat common in that area.  E.g. someone may not have shoved in a too large welsh plug or something.  Thanks for the feedback on EJ sump and dipstick.

Rodger

Hi Rodger. When I bought my FE in 2006 it still had its original motor. I removed the generator for a rebuild and there it was....a long rust stain where the block was cracked and had been leaking water. Same area as yours. These were early days when I was fairly trusting so when I was told the crack could be welded up, I paid to have it done. Got the block back, had it bored and the engine rebuilt only to find two new cracks after the primer was applied to the block prior to engine enamel going on....one above the original crack and one below. Luckily I was able to get hold of an FE block L326...earlier than the original L372... but I grabbed it without hesitation. I was very disappointed to lose the original motor but after reading the posts here, I don’t feel quite so unlucky. Seems if they’re going to crack, that’s the spot. I wonder why??
Cheers, Ken  :)

my low mile sept 58 build FC also the 8" crack running right between the welsch plugs.. just about the generator and visible just under the intake and exhaust manifolds...pity but now a healthy J motor resided in there and the cracked block is in the shed looking sombre..

I wonder why these cracks can't be fixed with Irontite stitching ? ..Vern ..