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Title: Distributor Replacement Post by: JohnBM on August 04, 2017, 06:06:14 PM I'm not mechanically minded, so bear with me. I have an FE with the original engine that came with the car, plus all that hangs off it. I'm in WA and have driven over and back from the last two nationals. I have the opportunity to acquire a reconditioned distributor (most everything else has been seen to). If I replace the distributor is there any chance of it not 'bedding' in to the motor: ie the gears meshing in together. Or if it's not broke, don't fix it? I'm happy to change distributor and it works ok, it's just one more thing I don't have to worry about 600kms east of Norseman.
JohnBM Title: Re: Distributor Replacement Post by: mcl1959 on August 04, 2017, 09:13:23 PM John, it's pretty straight forward, all Bosch grey distributors are basically the same apart from a few minor changes to various components.
Early ones have a screw in grease cap for lubrication for instance. Carefully remove the old one noting the exact direction the rotor is pointing as it leaves the engine (not when you start lifting it.) DONT MOVE THE CRANKSHAFT Place the new distributor half way into the engine. Line up the rotor as previously described and push it all the way home. The tang at the bottom of the distributor should go straight into place in the oil pump. Ken Title: Re: Distributor Replacement Post by: hsv-001 on August 05, 2017, 08:31:59 AM Just make sure that the dizzy drops all the way into the oil pump drive . With a long screwdriver you can reposition the pump drive if need be .
Title: Re: Distributor Replacement Post by: ardiesse on August 05, 2017, 11:00:01 AM John,
The key word before you start the "long drive" again: Lubrication. Before you leave, unscrew the grease cup from your distributor, and fill it with grease. Screw it back into the distributor, and turn it down until you begin to feel some resistance. You might even have to unscrew the cup and refill it if your poor dizzy has gone for many years without grease. While you're at it, take the cap and rotor off, and smear a little grease onto the distributor cam (the hexagonal bit that the points run on. Best to have an assistant crank the motor over while you apply grease. Or use a greased cotton wool bud if you don't like the idea of applying your finger to rotating mechanical parts. Finally, pull the dipstick and put a drop of oil onto the felt at the top of the distributor cam before you replace the rotor and cap. If you are really keen, when you get to the BP at Norseman and fuel up and think, "Deep breath. It's not that far to Ceduna," give the grease cup on your distributor a turn. Make sure your fan belt is loose rather than tight before leaving, and put some oil into the oil hole at the back of your generator. You don't want a repeat of Toowoomba's adventures (although I have a good supply of Lucas generators now). Rob Title: Re: Distributor Replacement Post by: JohnBM on August 05, 2017, 01:59:25 PM Ken & Rob: Thanks very much for your feedback, really appreciate it. My main concern replacing the original, is the gears not meshing as in a matched pair. Anyway, I think I will go ahead and do the replacement - if I don't turn up in Canberra, you know it didn't work out well. (Gulp)
Title: Re: Distributor Replacement Post by: Harv on August 05, 2017, 02:27:19 PM It took me many years to realise its a good idea to close the points and discharge the condensor before fiddling with distributors. My old man took great joy out of watching me jump each time. He also found it funny to toss charged condensors across a workshop ("Oi! Catch!" :o).
It must be hereditary, because my kids now enjoy watching me use an old timing light with PVC tape insulation. Cheers, Harv |