FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Chasing a fuel pump for parts only.
Need parts 14 (pin) & 15 (plugs) per diagram.
Please PM if you can help with $ inc P&P to 2615 (ACT), and payment method.

advice on how to keep these suckers in place also welcome

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y472/davidbolton1/Fuel%20pump%20parts_zpsiejyhcsj.jpg) ($2)

The plugs are a welch type which hold the pin in place. Press in with a punch and hammer. I wouldn't recommend using second hand although I've seen a bushy use a piece of acacia twig and two fuse ends to get my mates EH home from out back. There are rebuild kits available which include diaphragm gaskets and possibly even the valves.


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I like the unique fix & I'll keep it in mind. Luckily for me the car is in my drive way.
I've re kitted the pump but the tiny plugs were not included. As you suggest, re using the old ones wasn't a great idea. One fell out & resulted in the pin being lost.

A carby supply place might have the small welsh plugs, as they are similar to the ones used to block some carb drillings. An alternative is to raid the tackle box, and choose a split-shot sinker that is slightly larger than the hole. Tap them in with a small hammer to seal.

Cheers,
Harv

Thank Harv,
Found a couple of carb supply numbers ready to try when they open tomorrow.
Sinkers sound like a good fall back.
Dave

I remeber belting a sinker out flat and using a wadd punch to nock out a plug temporary.

Looks like I've avoided using a sinker & a wad punch this time.
Auto Surplus in Mitcham Vic has the gear.
Most helpful over the phone & post is no problem.

http://www.autosurplus.com.au
03 9873 3566

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Auto surplus are good to deal with.

Has anyone had issues with kits from Auto Surplus (red diaphragm)?
It works fine until the hooked link works it's way out of the rectangular hole.
Maybe the new item isn't close enough to the original or perhaps the old link is worn. Any tips appreciated.
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y472/davidbolton1/Fuel%20Pump%20Reco_zpsdosvhozj.jpg) ($2)

Dave,

Don't know whether this is good advice or not, but -
If your old diaphragm has no tears or other signs of damage, and if the oil seal is in good condition, re-use them.  If the valves aren't leaking, then there's not much point replacing them either.  There's not much that goes wrong with AC fuel pumps.

Are the diaphragms the vacuum section diaphragm from the FX-FE pump? The spring seems too hefty for the fuel section.  If this is the vacuum section diaphragm, one trick I've seen done is to put a gentle bend into the flattened section of the pull rod, and assemble the diaphragm with the bend facing toward the mounting face.  That way, when the pump lever pulls the diaphragm up against spring pressure, the pull rod tends to move further onto the pump lever instead of working its way off it.

Rob

Thanks Rob.
The original oil seal & diaphragm were probably serviceably (right side) but after no use in 30 years I thought I'd put a kit in & avoid any potential for problems.
The pump (last) came off an FB motor, but has no vacuum section. I like the idea of a gentle bend in the pull rod. The other thing just I noticed with the new diaphragm was that the flat section inside the spring didn't sit square to the link when the pump was assembled. This didn't seem to help the hook remain inside the rectangular hole & it didn't make any difference swinging the top around 180. I managed to slide the diaphragm around a little so I'll see how that goes. May use the old one if that fails.

Dave,

Given that this is the diaphragm from the fuel section, there's no need to put a bend in the flat part of the pull rod.  Getting the pull rod properly seated in the pump lever link can be a frustrating business though.

Rob

I'll be well practiced after a few more goes. Thanks.