FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Hi all, here's my FC ute. I've got a lot to learn mechanical wise - but lucky for me hubby and friends are well versed in vintage cars. We have been lucky to get a ute with a great body and new paint work, not original colour but she will look good with the chrome all added. Engine work and interior to do.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/20170401_171649_1491031014741_resized.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/20170401_171711_1491031014090_resized.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/20170401_171529_1491031015565_resized.jpg) ($2)

Helen

That's a great start. Look forward to progress photos.

Looks like a really good ute. Do you have a pic of the ID plate. I collect the data for research.

Regards Ken

Great starting point Roybeth, and extra bonus that it's a FC as well  ;D :D

Hi Ken

Sure do.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/compliance%20plate.jpg) ($2)

great starting canvas.

Baffle and grill out ready to start working on the front end and getting an engine in a bit easier.

Nice shiny new radiator arrived today, just sitting in, looks like it may be a good fit. Old one is apparently a bit past it and this one is a little thicker. May have to get a thermofan - depending on how much room we actually end up with

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/new%20radiator%201.jpg) ($2)

Very nice ute. What is the plan for he engine?

Cheers Dave

We have a couple to chose from - but are going with the reconditioned grey that came with the car. We understand its been bench started but hasn't been run in a car. The front end is set up with the front mounts so if I decide I bigger engine would be preferred we can just swap them over.

May have been different story if was to be a daily driver or long distance but only intending to club rego her and go to nearby shows / day trips....

Old front end is now down and out.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/front%20end%20off.jpg) ($2)

Plans changed slightly. we have striped the front end we were going to use as not everything was quite lined up right, those engine mounts are rougher than we thought and one of the wishbones is also out of wack, so using the good bits to complete another front end that is in much better shape and another set of wishbones. Fingers crossed for the second one

Ute came with an inlet manifold for Nikki carbies, not doing that, my clever hubby found a lovely couple who were happy to swap it for a manifold complete with twin carbies and the linkage to boot :-) will need to put a kit through the carbies but can't complain about this swap.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/manifold%20twin%20carbies_1.jpg) ($2)

Gent who took it didn't have a use for it - yet -lol,  but had never seen one before and was very happy also.

can you tell me a bit about the new radiator you are using . i.e brand ,size, contact ,price .  looks good

Hi, you can get them through Ebay. Its a 3 core so its a little thicker but same width as the original one - designed to bit in an FC.

We are putting original recon grey back in. The radiator is aluminium so will have to put I think an organic coolant in it so there's no reaction between the two - I think that's how it goes but will be checking with our mate who knows the ins and outs about this.

What's that dear - you want to work on car parts in the lounge room!- oh its the front end for MY ute - no worries dear, keep warm in front of the fire and I'll watch Origin with you and supervise those wishbones going back on- lol lol  :D

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6441.jpg) ($2)

Love it ..  I seem to be able to get away with a lot more when its something for the wife.    ;D  Keep up the photos and the great work

Can't be working in a cold damp shed, need to be toastie in front of a fire  ;D

A few touch ups for the engine bay.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6468.jpg) ($2)

While the wheels are off, a clean, rust converting and painting for the wheel wells and to be continued under the rest of the ute.

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6464.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6466.jpg) ($2)

[I
MG]http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6472.jpg[/IMG] ($2)

Looks good ..  what brand of rust conversion and paint are you using???

She's no show pony, though should scrub up well.
Just using Septone that you get from Supercheap Auto.

Not sure if its obvious in the pic above, there's a crack in Ruby's extractors, just past where they join into the one pipe. Have decided to repair it but will use it on another car and get some new ones for Ruby. So tonight we have cut it off  :(

Whats that dear? - its Origin night again - must be time for to work on my Ute in front of the fire, again while I supervise watching Origin! lol

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6474.jpg) ($2)

Drag link this time.

front end, resplendent with red springs, yellow shocks and stub axles back in the ol girl, now to find those bolts to put the brakes back on !   :P

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6658.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6663.jpg) ($2)

I'm having fun with photobucket tonight - and the forum with the modify button disappearing again for me :-(. Hopefully here are my pics - nope not a happening thing, will try again later .

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6658_1.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj618/Roybeth1/FC%20Ute/DSCN6663_1.jpg) ($2)

Got the pics at last!

Great progress given the weather lately. Lots of things come to a standstill for me in winter.

Looking good  :)

same here, can't do much in the shed in the evenings - too damn chilly! Helped hubby put the disc backing plates on and the steering linkage this arfo, can turn my steering wheel and and the axles move, yay.

Had to go to a donor car -an FB - and get a gearbox inspection cover plate, lucky it fits like it came out of the FC - the plate was missing off my ute when we got her. Been scraping the covering off it - stuff that would have been on the inside is super thick and still a bit gooey/gunky if that makes sense. Taking it off to check for any rust and to apply new protectant and body deadener.

Got nearly all of it off but I'm a bit hesitant to put to much pressure on the edges around the curves, any suggestions on something to get this stuff off - stripper, heat?

Use a heat gun to soften the old sealer and a gasket scrapper to clean it off. Worked well on my sedan especially around the pillars and floor if you have to go that far.
Jim

Wire wheel


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thanks all, only a small bit to do so will try heating it up and scraping off.

Still deciding whether to do the whole lot on the inside of the cabin floor, just to be sure of what's underneath, or just let it be and touch up? I am re-doing the underbody for sure.

okay diff is out, about to flip it over to make it easier to take leaf springs off etc. Later model diff is going in.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/36364019304_01f3d046f3_n.jpg) ($2)diff is out ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

And of course that means I've got more scraping n cleaning n rust converting n rust protection n painting to do while the rear end is out.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/37058912911_b5326f0881_n.jpg) ($2)diff out cleaning to do ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Lookin Good  ;D

Bell housing all clean and prepped for painting.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/36545498764_b7aeee4915_n.jpg) ($2)bell cleaned and prepped for painting ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

a before (though not showing the dirtiest bit) and after a good clean, getting ready to prep and paint.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36736313574_42b6ff1abd_n.jpg) ($2)before n after ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

That's an excellent job.

Looks great , you have done so much, keep it up. ;D

Thanks Cam, though I feel like I haven't done much yet - hopeful to get more stuck into her now the weather is warming up and its daylight saving again.

Here's the gearbox all painted up - yeah I know its not holden grey like the engine is, but liked the idea of a hit of colour underneath :-)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/36758866794_90c95b7af8_n.jpg) ($2)gearbox painted ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Nice progress. Can't wait to see the next update.

Is there a rubber seal for around the tailgate on a ute?

No seal on the tailgate of a ute. There is one on a wagon and van though.

Ken

I made one for the Ute which works quite well.
See if I can find some photos for you.

From memory I used 15 x 15mm square down the sides and 15 x 25 or 30 for the bottom. Carefully cutting out the bits for the hinges and the stays with a fresh blade. Then used the rubber superglue to install.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180107/bb59b50c1a262d38f5042a1bb70aa3ae.jpg)

Hi Ken, mine's not sitting quite right, think it may be missing the bumper stops.

Thanks, will look at this also, when I get to the tub - seems to be lots of space there so may look at a seal also.
:-)

There should be adjustable metal catches for the tailgate

Ken

After finding another inspection plate (sans rust holes) I also found a great way to get sealer and any other paint n stuff off - caustic soda (aka draino) works a treat

Has anyone got a picture of an original fc ute seat - seems lots of them were replaced with sedan seats or others. I think that the seats had seams evenly across (apart from a wider strip on the edges) and that they went vertically all the way up the squab - the utes didn't have the panel across the top of the squab??

Would love to see a pic of a correct ute seat if anyone has one.

thanks

(https://s13.postimg.org/s3swfr9bn/ute_int.jpg) ($2)
Regards
Alex

Thanks Alex, thats super, wasn't really sure if there was a wide strip in the middle, I see there is  and I see the lines go all the way up the squab
Cheers, just what I was after.
Helen

Helen

These images may help

This image is of the seat that was in my FC Panelvan ambulance, ignore that it has been cut in half but the pattern is correct for FC, panelvan, ute, and standard sedan and wagon

Only difference being at the back of the seat, FE ute had a flap of matching vinyl that was attached from the seat to under the back window and acted as a sort of loose parcel shelf behind the seat

panelvan had a piece of ply wood, both ute and panelvan were ashtray delete
 
(https://s14.postimg.org/ioywadlil/011.jpg) ($2)

FE ute seat is different to FC seat as per this pick

(https://s14.postimg.org/ioywaobbh/FE_UTE_SEAT_PS.jpg) ($2)

Gary

Helen the FC Ute & Panel Van brochure also shows the Ute with red seats with the top half solid and Black surrounds as per Gary’s top pic

(https://s9.postimg.org/nymj33oiz/4_A99687_C-_C9_B2-483_F-9_AC2-267_DEF743578.jpg) ($2)

Thanks, I've got a copy of the brochure but the quality isn't good enough to blow up and see that, very clear in yours, thanks

Cant seem to upload pics atm

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/27348439497_95a6716379_n.jpg) ($2)inside tub rear quarter seal ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

been going very slowly lately - other work keeping me away, but I make sure I get back to Ruby and do a little bit. This is where I'm up to atm, just cleaning up the very back of her underneath. This pic is from the top and you can see the mastic is no longer sealing I've already chipped away at it here. Looking at putting another rubber seal in the gap as its so big before using some new mastic.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/27348440167_a48f97e4f8_n.jpg) ($2)underneath rear quarter ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

here it is from underneath looking at the back of the wheel well.

will have to replace the grommets and hose for the wiring to the taillights that go under the car - hard as and all cracked and not sealing anything.

Looks like some good progress when the days are so short.
I find that the colder it gets, the longer it takes me to achieve anything.

after finding a hole and built up rust under a plate around the fuel tank opening when working underneath, decided to strip the paint from on top as well. It has had a black coating put over the original beige on the inside. a couple more holes, and some previous brass filling found. Will do some rust converting, some hole repairing and a repaint.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/28813842978_aa9aa21897_n.jpg) ($2)DSCN7021 ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/28813840188_e6721b0cf3_n.jpg) ($2)DSCN7023 ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

bit of surface rust all round, but nothing too bad

Looking good..  also great see you pressing on and doing a some really nice work ;)

Been a while since doing some serious work on Ruby - revving up for the warmer weather - fun and games removing body deadener gooop

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691725436_af67f8071b_b.jpg) ($2)cabin floor ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Still working on that black goop on the cabin floor - but almost there, but also fiddling with changing over the diff - swapping out the original and putting in a HR diff - here I am getting my hands dirty with the HR rear end, next to put Ruby's rear end back together and back in the car
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49447857732_d62ab87c9d_c.jpg) ($2)Getting the HR diff out 1 ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49447858182_532f405025_c.jpg) ($2)Getting the HR diff out 3 ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

yep I did get it out :-)

What is the best to do with these floor tabs - is it best to close up and seal so moisture doesn't get in under the floor mat or are they supposed to be open? they are also in the back.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49539914926_c50719c064_c.jpg) ($2)floor tabs ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Leave them slightly open, but seal them up.  If you need to drain water out, pull the mats up and remove the sealant.

Rob

Well, eventually put the diff in the ute's rear end, put the axle's back in and leaf spring all painted and ready to go back in - dang is that oil I see at the pinion end. Looks like one more job first - putting a new pinion seal in.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49660767163_2f20aa54ce_c.jpg) ($2)leaf springs on ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49661307231_bdc975203f_c.jpg) ($2)rear end painted ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Pity I didn't take note before painting it!

A pinion oil seal is a take-it-to-a-diff-specialist job.  For starters, the nut on the pinion flange is done up bloody tight, and on the EH-and-later diff centres (which is what you have), the pinion flange nut sets the pinion bearing pre-load.  Tightening the nut to "that feels about right" tightness will almost certainly be wrong.

But I'm more interested in the background of the photo.

Tell us about the blue and white FB wagon . . .

Rob

Yeah, friend who is a mechanic is coming around to do it for me, as you say, apparently its a little tricky.

The FB wagon is my hubby's. He is in the process of repainting it, we are the second family to own it. She is on club rego and gets out an about.

This is what she normally lookslike.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49660943128_1c659fbc13_c.jpg) ($2)1232162edna ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Well the manual et al gives no clue!! scratched my head for a while and eventually a light globe went off! got those suckers in !!!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49706439018_8a112289af_c.jpg) ($2)front leaf bushes ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

:-) !!

Well, spent the day putting the rear end in, rear shocks and rear wheels and at last I don't have to climb on a crate to sit in the back a few tricky bits getting everything to fit but don.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49710563618_f5b91328a8_c.jpg) ($2)rear end and wheels on ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Nice work mate. What was the issue with the front spring bolts?  I'll be putting my rear end in soon.

Well done Helen ,you look buggered but satisfied ..I can relate to that  ..Vern ..

Wow great work

Sorry skipped over your question. -you may already know this but for those who haven't done it before it's not that obvious.
When you get the new rubber bushes - they are a tad longer than the length of the stud with the nut on, also if you put them both in the eye first - it will not go into the hanger. Worked out - eventually -  one bush goes in the leaf eye on the outside side, position the eye in the hanger, put the other rubber bush into the hanger on the inside side through to the eye, put the stud in on that side and then take some frustration out on the stud head and - evenly - bash it until the rubber is pushed through enough for the nut to go on, tighten up - voila!

Thank you, I was not aware, now I am!

Okay - starting on the motor - score for me the ute came with a recon motor - though hasn't been started and has been sitting for quite a few years - hopefully just some tweaking and all will be good.
First up - push rods, lifters out and then out with the camshaft and off to Clive Cams for a bit of a tweak.
 8)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49759914836_62dbdc1233_c.jpg) ($2)push rods are out ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

not a great pic but heres the recon steering wheel installed. There was a really little steering wheel on it and getting the boss of was FUN ! not.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49844117991_42a7faaf98_c.jpg) ($2)steering wheel ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Can anyone enlighten me re the courtesy lights - I hear rumours the utes did not come with them installed, as you can see the holes are in the door jams - but there is no wiring for them that I can find.

Helen,

You're right.  You'd need to raid a Special for the door jamb switches and wiring.  And hopefully you don't have to run a wire up to the dome lamp for the courtesy switches.

Rob

You can buy the door jam switches new and run and a positive wire to the switch. The screws earth it.

Very nice.

Ah hadn't thought about the wire up to the dome lamp - that one may be a bit more tricky - will have to have a good look at the wiring - might just leave them if its not there - a job maybe if I ever replace the hood lining

The wiring diagram shows a white wire from the switch side of the dome lamp going to the door jamb switches.  It's dashed rather than solid.  That means you'd have to run the wire up to the dome lamp.

You'd have to take the dome lamp out, unplug the orange wire from the dome lamp, tape a guide wire to the orange wire, pull the orange wire through from under the dash until the guide wire comes through, then tape a (white) wire to the orange wire and guide wire, and then pull the guide wire through from the hole in the headlining until the white and orange wires come through.

That's if everything goes ideally and the wires don't snag on the bodywork.  It is a royal pain sending the body wiring up through the A-pillar, and that with no headlining.

Rob

What you do is use the original power wire to draw through some light tie wire, then pull back power and white earth. Early upgrade I did on my standard sedan.

The switches are available from Rares et al (don’t start rob).


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Helen, pic of white wire that links the door switches in the A pillars, the last pic shows the clip that secures the wire to the lower dash lip

(https://i.postimg.cc/67bjqSNK/20200502-190352.jpg) ($2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ygMzgWz7/20200502-190411.jpg) ($2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/V09LzX0x/20200502-190402.jpg) ($2)

One more step done - deadener is done.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51194457626_5a7b7be6c8.jpg) ($2)deadener is in ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

You didn't miss much Helen. Well done.
Cheers
Clay

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hey Helen ..wondering how you are and how the ute is ,now we know ,coming along nicely , I had to replace the gearshift tube in the steering column ,thats done ,just some final adjustments as its not selecting 2nd and 3rd gears..Vern

Hi Vern, sorry missed your post - still going slowly slowly - just cant manage to spend as much time on the car as I would like to. Did a bit here and there today - including a trial fit of a seat we purchased off another FC ute enthusiast - price compared to getting one reupholstered as original compared to this one was just too good to turn down. 

I'm not that big - and I have to have the seat all the way back to not be touching the steering wheel - not sure how a well built fella  is going to get in there - LOL

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51352920615_de5657bb4e.jpg) ($2)seat trial fit ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Helen,
That seat back looks like it has a bit of rake. You could try fitting spacers from Pete mallaby etc, only on the rear mounts, which will stand it up a bit and give you another inch maybe, before the seat hits the rear wall. I find in my fb ute though I have the seat pushed back hard on both sides, it is still two holes short of full rearward adjustment. One learns to fold oneself up in the name of the passion.

Another option which I dread to mention is to fit the shorter FB EK column with your original honey pot and wheel, which will give you a lot more room.
Cheers,
Clay


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Hi Helen ..Wow Ruby looks all class , the seat is neat ,and I love the steering wheel , I got a second one from Maco on this forum , and did it in , ( don't tell anyone ) Suzuki Pearl White , I know its not stock , but I have always loved white steering wheels , can always swap as req as I have a puller ...keep well Vern ..

Little bit more work done - lots to touch up and tweak and windscreens to put in - but I'm pretty happy with the interior colour scheme.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51549407849_e87bceaf8a_c.jpg) ($2)colour scheme (2) ($2) by Helen Sheedy ($2), on Flickr

Looks grand Helen!


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looks great Helen , you must be so proud , just love the red piping on the sun visors , your door pull handles look exactly like mine !!!!!! and your finished just in time for hopefully a return to normal life ...keep well Vern

Yes, well done, love the red on the steering wheel as well
Ken