FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Wanted to Buy a working vacuum pump for the windscreen washers that sits on top of the Water bottle as per the attached photo.


(http://s12.postimg.org/424tj7isp/Vacuum_washer_pump_003.jpg) ($2)

And / or  ...... does anyone know if they can be repaired?  All I need is a new rubber diaphragm for inside.  Original ones that have been sitting a long time are perished and either have splits that allow water to return down the vacuum line into the manifold or are fused to the brass water side and cannot be budged.

Thanks

Repaired? No. The two metal halves of the diaphragm housing are permanently crimped (and probably soldered) together.

Replaced? Yes. But bring your wallet. Plenty of sellers flogging repro units for old Jags. This is not a bad place to start for part numbers to Google:
http://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=19347.0

Cheers,
Harv

 Talk to your local carby repair specialists as i have seen secondary diaphragms (crimped style) repaired on unavailable early jap carbs they may have an idea or source.
cheers
Scott

Thanks Harv, I have managed to pull it apart, two of them. They are not soldered, the brass opens up fairly easily and I'm sure I can close it again. The rubber diaphragm is quite badly perished, but I think a neoprene one could be made with little effort.  I just don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone has gone through the process.

Cool  :). If you can, please take some photos as you go - I'd love to include them in an update to the windshield washer Guide.

A fair while back, I had a good discussion with a gentleman from the EJ/EH forum (instrument fitter by trade) who overhauls the NASCO/NATRA early Holden heater taps. The heater tap overhaul process involves bending a few of the small brass tabs on the taps. The brass has a tendency to work harden very quickly, and snap off. To stop this, he heats the brass (about as hot as you can get it with an LPG torch, but not hot enough to melt any silver solder), and then air-cools it. This anneals the brass, and makes it able to bend when reassembled. May have to do something similar with the brass vacuum diaphragm bodies before recrimping.

Cheers,
Harv

This is one of them pulled apart. As you can see the only thing wrong, that needs fixing, is the rubber diaphragm.

It has perished, and become soft squishy rubber, sticky to the touch with no elasticity to flex up and down when a vacuum is applied.

It also leaked water through the Rubber diaphragm into the vacuum side which allowed water to get into the inlet manifold.


(http://s17.postimg.org/3ko6utgej/Vacuum.jpg) ($2)

I once had a curious bystander ask me if the vacuum Trico setup on my FB was water injection... I wish  ;D.

Cheers,
Harv