FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Hi All
I have been waiting for the chance to start my project and today I final got a chance to move my FC into the workshop. Purchased the FC a few months back and have been reading all the post on this site just making me excited to start my own project.

Well here goes..  Hope its an entertaining journey for you and me..
 
(http://i.imgur.com/e258Y83l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VYHa6RQl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dV75Rezl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LIkbyeKl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cZxKPlhl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3IGACzFl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/94Mk9bkl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aLzObqAl.jpg)

G'day Cam,

Hope your project goes well and you get much enjoyment from it.  I am over at Mt Clear - sing out if you need a hand with anything :) Are your restoring or modifying or a bit of both?

Cheers, Graeme

Congrats Cam, looks like it won't be running a grey based on your picture.
Which is very clever i must say.
Look forward to many more posts

Ken

Yes good luck with it Cam.

Regards

Wayne b

Welcome aboard Cam,
You have already mastered what some cant do on the Forum. Post Pictures.
Since you have had no problems with that, we expect to see plenty  :)
The old India Ivory over Fountain Blue was a pretty colour scheme but will be interested in whatever you choose.
Good Luck with the project and don't be afraid to ask, I am sure Ken (mcl1959) loves answering questions.

Cheers Stewy  8)

Good luck mate, like yourself, I have just started my resto too!  Onwards and upwards!

Thank every one for your welcoming...

Well today I addressed the bare metal and surface rust, before it started some major pitting. Also removed the left front guard. I was thinking of keeping a telly of broken bolts but I think I might feel bad by the time I got to the end of the deconstruction. Also I gave the car a vacuum out. 

Some plans for the FC are as follows and could change at any time;
   Motor:      186S motor
   Gearbox:  2 speed powerglide
   HR Front end
   EH or HR Diff
   Blue body/  white roof   not hundred percent sure on exact colour codes or names yet
   

I have found a couple of interesting things today. One a piece of angle iron between the guard and the sub frame, which seems to hold no purpose.(Picture below), and a light switch in the glove box, which is a real head scratcher ??? ??? ???. If any one can think or knows of the reasons for these items I would love to hear.

Until next time ..

(http://i.imgur.com/IAOp7yJl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/YZepcsEl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5Zx66n3l.jpg)

Interesting items
(http://i.imgur.com/LwCcvSyl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JzuwEMJl.jpg)

Hi Cam, light switch in glove box looks period and could be anything.
The angle iron on the passenger side top of guard was to stop water ingress dripping down onto the regulator.

Cheers Stewy   8)

Hi Cam, welcome to the forum. Nice to see someone else planning a red motor build. They're few and far between these days! My FC had an EH diff when purchased. My engineer asked for it to be changed to HR for greater axle strength, which I did. I'm going Aussie 4 speed. At the rate I'm going on my build you'll probably overtake me. I have an old truck with a bakelite light switch that acts as my ignition switch. Where are you based? Regards, Martyn

See it in the middle of the dash here:
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a628/Crumpsnr/Fargodash_zps1322858a.jpg)

Cam,
Looking forward to following your build through from the very beginning.
It will be interesting to see where the switch in the glove box wires to. Anti theft device to ignition?

The once standard red upgrade is quickly starting to be retro. Nothing wrong with that.
Good luck with the build, it will be interesting to watch along.
The piece of angle is as Stewy said and is factory fitted.
As for the switch....heater perhaps?
Regards
Alex

Funny how the chassis number is raised not stamped into the skirt ?

Optical illusion ;D

I agree with DJ, I think it was probably an ignition kill switch hidden in the glove box.

Ken

Hi   Finally got a chance to stick my head under the dash see where that switch joined onto..  It had two red wires cut off just the other side of the glove box. :-\ While I was there I believe I found a heater bracket so the best bet is it was for a heater. 

Hi all       Have a question about engineer and RWC. What are some of the items I need to be thinking about and planning to address as I move through my build of 186, Hr front, powerglide..  It would be great to here form those of you have already gone through the process and no the pains before I try address them my self.  I have also been thinking about contacting an engineer early in the build to get there thoughts on my plans. Has any one used one close to the Ballarat area.???  Is this a good idea or am I way too early in my build... ???

G'day Cam,

Never too early to get an engineer involved, even if it just to go over your ideas.  There is an engineer advertising in Australian Street Rodding - Peter Turner from Guilford.  His phone number is 0429 914 234 and email is teched21@bigpond.com.  It would be worth giving him a call or email to get some advice....

Cheers, Graeme

The usual items are
Dual circuit disc brakes. Brake size is up to you but a fade test all but rules out standard HR discs. Common upgrades range from HQ to Commodore
Demister
Collapsible column if the original is changed
2 speed wipers
New seat belts
An auto conversion will usually require a working lock out and neutral safety switch
The 186 will not require pollution gear

Maybe others I can't think of now but this is a start
Ken

Possibly window washers too.

Hi Cam
As Ken said never to early to get an engineer involved mate and I would suggest downloading a copy of ADR14 the modification rules and have a good read they will tell you all the things you need to know although depending on your engineer there can be slightly different interpretations.
Good luck with your build looks like you have a reasonable car to start with and I like the red motor option in my sedans first incarnation I had a bored and stroked 186 it was a 208 and that motor was a really tough little unit.
Regards
Neil H

HI all Finished removing most of the front, the passenger doors, some of the dash, and screws from the petrol tank. Ran into trouble with the tank. Of course I received the car with no keys and the petrol cap is still locked and on.  :-\ :-\

Also noticed something what look like sway bars (I have attached a poor photo) that run under the rear springs. Does anyone know are they standard or an option for the FC. Are maybe not even sway bars at all.. ?? ;D

I got in touch with Peter turner thanks to Graeme for his contact details and gave him a run down of my plans and he said that sound good and to also look up the VSB 14, for a bit of a read. Which I believe Neil mentioned to me too. So I will start studying and keep de-constructing.
thanks every one

(http://i.imgur.com/VSU3ZX4l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fBaiP0Ql.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cL8sddcl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WoCzRcfl.jpg)

Swaybars
(http://i.imgur.com/5cI6iRXl.jpg)

Looks like tramp rods.
ACE  8)

Yep, old school tramp rods. Used to stop rear spring wind up under the severe acceleration conditions imposed by the mighty grey engine ;D
These were very popular during the sixties and seventies.
Ken

wow so it was a real street machine  ;D ;D  thanks guys for confirming what they are.

Today finished the Driver side doors and removed boot. Also removed what was left of door rubbers.

I have been thinking about the inner/out sills. Both sides of the outer sills have rust holes, nothing to great but if I get the car media blasted Im thinking about removing them. This would allow the inner sill to be blasted then painted so later rust out does not occur. Or should i only cut out small sections to allow of access for media blasting.  Whats your thoughts????

(http://i.imgur.com/822GdiKl.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/aF6OYHyl.jpg) 

I had similar rust holes in the outer sills on my wagon. Cut the whole outer off both sides, discovered the inners were still perfect so just cleaned them up and treated them.  Got some new outers rolled up and welded them in.  I think you can buy complete outers now....  Cheers, Graeme

Agree. Remove the outer sills and then blast

Ken

try jean @ Bonneville, he is very good to deal with mods, he very in touch with what us car guys need and want and is very professional, and has the knowledge needed. most engineers say " no cant do this or do that" when it is quite legal to do it, they just don't know any better

http://www.bonneville.com.au/

Hi All
       Here is an update. 
Finished removing a list of items ,Dash , clutch and brake peddles, wiring, rear bumper and fuel tank.

(http://i.imgur.com/1Inv1y1l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Bnu4WYTl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3ASegNTl.jpg)

Picked up my 186S engine, Powerglide gearbox, EH outrigger and HK auto steering wheel, freebies but need some work cleaning them up. Motor and auto will get a rebuild at some stage.

(http://i.imgur.com/2rud6cyl.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/9UQxG86l.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/6jBpBjwl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Z9Cw70Il.jpg)

Currently think about whipping up a rotisserie to mount the old girl onto.  Have read the "pig on a spit" post. So Im keen to give it ago will source some casters and metal and get building.  Will be removing the complete front end soon as well. 

Was also nice to see some FC's at the Coffee and Cars in Ballarat today, couldn't wait to get home and start tinkering in the shed.

Hope every one had a chance to get their rides out and take them for a spin in such great weather.. ;)
 

Hi Cam, I made my rotisserie from two engine stands, most of the work is already done. Just need to make the cross bars and body mounts. Have a look on my build site (my fc rebuild)and you can get an idea.
Jim

Theres only 1 way to do it properly put it on the rotisserie and have it blasted and epoxy etched straight away then you know what you are in for.
If your sills are buggered just cut the lower half out so the blaster can get to the inners.
make sure if you start cutting inners and outers to either weld to a table or rhs gusset the crap out of it so it cannot move or pull you door gaps out of shape.

Lots of fun ahead  good luck with her..


Pete

Was a good turn up of cars at the Cars n Coffee do yesterday, including a really nice looking FC wagon, grey on grey (NOT mine, even tho mine was there).  Haven't seen that one around before.

Graeme I did look twice as I thought It was your wagon, There was also a nice red white FE.

(http://i.imgur.com/lJLpxbJm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/KjfBhLgm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/XGesHvom.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/o3tB5A7m.jpg)

My wagon was behind the black A Model tudor with the flathead V8 engine  :)  That stocky wagon looked really good and the FE was also super clean and tidy.

that HK auto column worth $295 on its own...handle that inhibitor switch at the base of the column with care...worth $150 alone

Well it has been a little while, great weather so the garden has been getting some attention. Have pulled apart and started cleaning up the HK auto column and steering box, Sadly KFV888 the switch on the column was broken. Will have to get creative and find away around the $160 replacement. Have collected some bits to start making the rotisserie for the car. Going for a drive tomorrow to look at another FC sedan for some required parts. Will Also raid my stock pile of items at my father farm, see what other goodies I can find.  ;D ;D ;D

Today finally got around to ripping the front off. Passenger side bolt was rusted in nicely, nothing a bit off heat could not fix. 

(http://i.imgur.com/z1JnlScm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/3UAzJMIm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/9Bxiqgpm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/dLkZoxmm.jpg)

HI All
Well after almost completing the court yard, which has dragged out. ::) ::) I have kicked of my rotisserie project for the FC ;D. Currently have one end stand 95% complete and goes together quicker then I thought. I have also picked up a rear and front seat in not to bad of condition. I started hammering out some dents on my guards, Still a lot of work needed on them. And out of the four doors I have pulled down two ready for the sand blasters.


 (http://i.imgur.com/gRNDgwEl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/nrKYz1Xl.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/y4cI2M5l.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/5tOCBr0l.jpg)

megamotormadness

Judging by the view out of the courtyard it doesn't appear you'll be annoying the neighbours any time soon!  ;D

Yes the neighbours are at a great distance away. Dont even really see them, which i think maybe the best neighbours..  :D :D :D

Has anyone tried the Weber 34 adm (ford xf ) carby on a holden 6.???????  Alot of good comments on the net.

Hi All
    Hope every one had a good Christmas  ;D ;D..   Well the old girl has finally left the ground and is been mounted on the rotisserie..  Was amazed at how centred I got the car first time up. I think I read some where about the petrol filler hole being a good starting point, and that does work. Its so nice to be be able to move the car around the shed with out much hassles. I'm really happy with my design. I have also finished pulling down the  two remaining doors. I have in vested in a Weber 34 ADM carby for the 186. Did some research and sounds like every one who has tried the carby noticed a big difference. So it will be interesting to see how they perform. Well next stage make sure every thing is ready for the sandblasters and get it sent off.

(http://i.imgur.com/HvJ1Gv9m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Bnahjv1m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/d7RUTJvm.jpg)

Just like a bought one  ;)

Regards

Wayne b

Hi Decided to grab a cheap SCA sandblasting cabinet and some blast grit 30/60, and i was impressed with how easy and well it worked. I just tried it on a door hinge and under five minutes had it back to metal looking like new. Of course the cabinet needs a few alterations. 1. Extra lid handles 2. connection to shop vac, seal of unwanted leaky hole with filter..  I think this will make life alot easier so I will be working on all the small stuff and etch priming as I go.

Still have not sent the car off to the sand blasters need to remove the sills so they have access to the sills inners, fingers crossed for this weekend. Have also picked up a LJ diff with 3.08 centre and have started to remove the unwanted suspension mounts. Pictures to come.

(http://i.imgur.com/hu8QUNqm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/9KXm18Lm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/bAPUrVbm.jpg)

Coming along nicely Cam.  Have you got a time frame for when it will be on the road?  Cheers, Graeme

Hi Graeme No I don't have a plan for on the road, but I wish it was now. ;D. Want to do at a variable pace as a young family does take your time. Just trying to enjoy any  time I get and trying to do a good job, love being in the shed. As I think everyone on this Forum would.

Agree with you there Cam.  If you feel the need to drive an oldie, mine is always here.....

Found the 186s motor I have has had a 161 high comp LC GTR Torana head added at some stage. "The casting number 7438296 is the standard 161 head casting which was also used on the GTR 2600S motor"
(http://i.imgur.com/as8Xzdqm.jpg?1)

LJ  Diff
(http://i.imgur.com/cLr6vyqm.jpg)
 
The diff centre had 2.78 on the out side collar, but it has 3.08 internals , must of had a change at some stage in its life.
(http://i.imgur.com/HisvWMWm.jpg?1) (http://i.imgur.com/gijC3xKm.jpg?1)

Thanks Graeme I might hold you to that one day.. ;)

Anytime mate  :)

This week as been all about blasting and etch priming some parts.  I was looking at my bonnet hinges to blast next and was wondering if it is even possible to get the pivot pins / rivets.??

(http://i.imgur.com/Z7lCDAmm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/dEomUPim.jpg)

Leave them you will never get them the same just take the spring off and blast open and then closed
If they are very loose put them on a anvil and give them a love tap.

Go with chrome or cad plating over painting hinges. Thats my opinion anyway..

Keep up the good work

Cad plated with oil blacked springs was original. Chrome looks good on a modified. Paint is ok if it's going to be very seldomly opened because it will chip off around the gears very quickly.

Ken

If you are coming into Cars and Coffee next sunday, bail me up and take the wagon for a spin.  Would appreciate some feedback on how it drives, steers and stops....

Thanks guys for advice, I do some research on CAD plating.

And Graeme I will have to see if I can get to the coffee and cars, if I do I will hunt you out.

HI All   Just a broad question to all what front brake setups (stubs,rotors,calipers) are we all running on HR front ends, and are they working for you.?????

On the van I used Vt calipers and rotors with hubs from Hoppers Stoppers.
I also had the VT brake booster. Worked really well.

Cheers
JB

HQ stubs, rotors and calipers on mine

CRS drop spindles, HZ WB rotors and callipers with VP Booster on my sedan

HR modified drum stub axles with adapter plates, VP rotors and callipers not sure about booster yet on my FB/EK ute project.

If you find some HD HR  drum stubbs i can make you a commodore adaptor kit like nes runs.

Also i now have in stock hr engine mounts .
And i havent forgot your diff saddles.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160225/e065f08173bb2c2463e0301351dc5063.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160225/496d3a01d9d805c4fffd65832e3afb86.jpg)

Thanks all you gave me their brake combinations appreciate you input.

Peter how are you and making kitchen sinks, Im going end up buying one of each from you great list, those engine mounts look like they will make life easy. I will take a couple of them please. What else do you have in your list.?  ;D


Any one looking at the HG auto column I believe I found a cheaper option to the auto inhibitor switch. As you can see in the following images the original HG switch (White one) is almost the same as the tee bar switch(black one), used in torona's and other models. I will only need to swap the backing plate. I will report my findings after have a go at swapping. I picked up the tee bar switch for $33 on ebay, and is in really good condition. Much better then $260 for replacement HG switch.

(http://i.imgur.com/M6FOy6Zm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/dEXVtf5m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/W9Oy3qxm.jpg)


 

Nice Engine mounts Pete  ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D

Opened the switches everything looks like a straight swap the only diff is the length of the slider part, but can just swap them over. Can see the diff in the photos.

(http://i.imgur.com/FvEIvD8m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/FvEIvD8m.jpg)

Finally got switch back together looks good and slides easy so happy with the results. Still sand blasting parts and priming as I go.

Also been getting the boot and bonnet ready to send off to the blaster. Took the inner section out of the bonnet so that it can be blasted under and found a better piece to replace it.

Also put an order in at rare spares which have 20% on Saturday the 19th March.    Rare Spares 20% OFF flyer ($2)

 
(http://i.imgur.com/q28qC5qm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Qd9iWCxm.jpg)

HI All    Let me start with a big thanks out to Pete and Graeme, Pete for his saddles and great knowledge that he hands out without complaint. Graeme who invited me around to test drive his car and give some feedback. Which really was just a great experience and really put a smile on the dial. Graeme is just one of those top blokes. So thanks boys.

What I have been doing on the car, well I brought a few items got some full sills, and rear floor pans from rares. I have some HQ stubs which lower the car 20mm, and I will go with V8 HT hubs and Girlock brakes. The Idea is to keep the early stub pattern match the LJ diff. So I have started to clean this parts up. Finished welding on Pete's saddles which look great like always. 
I will also started cutting the sills off then stopped. I thought I should be doing some bracing here. So if any one knows of the best way to brace the old girl up please in lighten me??. I believe I have seen a few posts and I will be going back to find them as well.

Going to get some KBS ($2) paint for the under side of the car and suspension parts. Most post I have read say it good, I would love to hear if any one disagrees.??


(http://i.imgur.com/WsSa8gTm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/C4M3bqpm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/bgoX20mm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/xnZymh9m.jpg)

 

Shouldn't need to brace if you are only doing the outer sills, but if you are doing both inner and outer have a look at my page"my FC rebuild" I used 2" square tube and 1/2" square as cross braces.
Jim

Thanks Jim, I just thought I would play it safe and ask.

Was good to finally catch up, and the feedback on the car was much appreciated.  Steering box rebuild coming up over winter  :)

Well finally got around to cutting the sills open. Was surprised to see there was some actual paint, not much on the inside inner sill. Glad I removed them really the inside of the outer sill was really bad and would of caused me some great pain later down the track.   

So will now organise the sandblaster and book a time. Still slowly blasting front end parts in my small cabinet.

(http://i.imgur.com/kofktkpm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Ub1b6mJm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/K5vX6dem.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/UEiGYn6m.jpg)

Definetly doing the right thing those inners look like they might be ok.

Fingers are crossed Pete,  hoping that they only need a little work...

I was meant to paste this pic at the start of this thread but I could not find it.  Its a picture of my Pa's FC with his family (my dad the little fella). Wish he kept the car. 

Today went to the paint shop brought the KBS chassis paint kit and a liter of the top coat to start on the diff and front end parts. The guy said that the top coat will go harder then powder coat. So can not wait to see how it comes up.

(http://i.imgur.com/z9NyJT3m.jpg)

Started pulling down the HR front end today, aim to get diff and all front end parts cleaned up for the KBS paint. I finished blasting the front brake parts, need to go for a drive pick up the rear parts and do them.

Going to go with a new 7 inch booster, XB ford mater cylinder as it has the hose go towards the guards (looks neat). Will find a proportional valve, for Ht drums back and ht disc front. 



(http://i.imgur.com/qRORYfgm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/0PABp4Bm.jpg)

Looking good, all that small stuff takes a lot of time but well worth the effort.  What brand booster did you go with as I am going to a 7" dual diaphragm booster as well.  Cheers, Graeme

Still plodding away with blasting and collecting bits and pieces.

Got my HK steering arms, got a cup (thingy) to replace my rusted one on my K frame, which holds on the front end. If anyone wants one im sure I can send it to you, just yell out.  I also found a not to bad floor piece to fix the rusted one in my car which is under the rear seat, Im sure this section does not get made by rares.

Also scored a red 186 with a yellaterra stage 3 head for $50 bucks.. Guy said the bottom end was done up not long before it had been removed from the car.  ;D ;D

(http://i.imgur.com/LmRLwM7m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/GZCEsnVm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/jtoYYIxm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/R4i96BHm.jpg)

A few weeks back I finally followed up with Ray Taylor's parts, And today they arrived .

Front floor panels , Guards lower and light surrounds, Cross member which are under the front floor and K frame parts. Will be interesting to see how they align with the car..  First look they seem to be thicker then a rare replacement part.  But its all about the fit. ;D

In a spin at the moment  ???..  Should I start by cutting out all rusty parts and replace with the new parts I currently have before the blaster, As I want to use KBS product which relies on bare metal so when I send the car to the blaster the new parts get the shit coat of pain blasted off to bare metal and then I can apply the KBS paint system. I know I will have other parts to fix when it comes back. But at least the new bits will be blasted ready for the paint, If I do them after blasting I will have to remove the paint some how my self.

What do you think ?  chicken or the egg  :-\

(http://i.imgur.com/2g9hoK6m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/0FDAg3gm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/dC9IrDjm.jpg)

Looking good mate. Eager to hear about the fit of Taylors parts!

I'm in the same boat with my EK van. Decided to do the structural stuff prior to blasting. Partly because if I didn't there may not have been anything to trailer home. Doing firewall, plenum, dash cut and shut, inner and outer sills, front cross member and trans tunnel with hydramatic conversion and front floors from Ray Taylor. Don't hold your breath though. Still patching patches for the donor firewall. Patch on patch on patch! Getting some experience with the mig before I get to the bits people see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the best way is to remove the outer sills fairly roughly (just by cutting the top and bottom with a cut-off wheel and leaving the spot welds in place)
This gets the blasting inside the sills where it is really needed.
I would not weld any new parts in before blasting. If it looks really fragile at the A or C pillar then weld in a tie member across the door jam to keep it square.
Front subframe should be off for blasting.
The primer on the new panels will come off very easily with just a simple coat of stripper or a stripping wheel

Ken

Thanks for the advise guys will look at getting the car sent to the blasters soon then... 

Nice build mate, i like it.

Thanks I try to please   ;D

Hi Cam;
I don't think you will be disappointed with the Taylors repair panels I purchased the front floor panels from Ray and am really please the sub chassis and rear floor panels I purchased from Rares for my FB/EK Ute leave a lot to be desired they are just not the same shape as the originals being slightly larger making the joins a little harder but I suppose when they is nothing else we have to use what we can get  ???

Regards
Neil H 

Great to here Neil
I got as much as I could from Ray's, And what a character he is. Oh my ...  what ever you do, do not ask about Telstra and bigpond   :o..  But do ask about his business its an interesting story. Would love to see him in action making the panels and Im sure he has some amazing stories about it all. Another one with a wealth of knowledge which will I hope be past on.

I hope some time soon I will get to put some of these part in..   ;D

Collected some more items over the last couple of weeks. 

Decided to go with a Trimatic instead of the Powerglide. More of a cruising car instead of drag car  ;D  It has electric kick down and is a later model, VB commo or UC Torana.

(http://i.imgur.com/u9KnMbFm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/5GeYqNim.jpg)

Got a proportioning valve from a HZ sedan to go with the rear drums and front disc. 

(http://i.imgur.com/hIajxmIm.jpg)

Cleaned up my HK steering arms and have nearly finished the rear diff HT drum plates. Hope to get the diff together for a lick of paint. 

(http://i.imgur.com/lbODDo8m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/SJsRgvQm.jpg)

Hi Cam
Re bracing might I suggest fitting and carefully aligning the doors and tacking shut prior to fitting new sills. That will brace everything and make for no surprises. When sills are tacked on remove rear doors and tack b pillars. I haven't done this but based on advice from others and common sense.

Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Clay I will keep that in mind when I get too it.

At last some paint on some items, using KBS paint.


Diff with aqua clean on
(http://i.imgur.com/cqt2YL6m.jpg)

Items getting the rust blast
(http://i.imgur.com/ZAzgd7bm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/aSuZdxDm.jpg)

Items with the rust seal, comes up pretty smooth with just a brush..  amazing really.
(http://i.imgur.com/uDuH5z7m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/ZxxuKbfm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/G9tUBNFm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/dKDaUi7m.jpg)

They came up really well.

Nothing like fresh paint..


How did you get it to dry ? its as cold as here in NSW..

Another few steps forward.. ;D

Cleaned up brake pedal.
(http://i.imgur.com/0xODuB4m.jpg)

Removed the lower part of the sill I had left on after cutting a strip out, I thought might as well as it will help with the sand blasting. Amazed at the number of spot welds and there locations, one was right in the middle of a drainage slot...
(http://i.imgur.com/zS3Cl5xm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Nh0K3xzm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/kLME0qIm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/1OXvWSFm.jpg)

G'day Cam,

Making good progress there  :). Wont be too long and another quality car will hit the road.

Got mine up on stands at the moment doing the stuff the engineer requires which is not much at all really. 

Cheers, Graeme

 cam

     you call them spot welds  ;D   will show you spot welds
    l counted 40 in one 12inch  strip   the panel beater must have got a new toy when he put these sills on
    or the bloody apprentice was unsupervised
    took me a while hade to grind it back to where the floor pan was
(http://i.imgur.com/3pR294ql.jpg)

HI missed your question Pete on how i was getting things dry ..  1. sun was out 2. heaters were running flat out and 3. was the middle of the day..  Took a risk and paid off..  ;D

Graeme hows the out look on the selling of the car..  Are you going to be able to keep it ..?

Greg you definitely win hands down on the spot welds.... that's insane  :o

Hi. Been off for a while. We did an assessment of the car and it was pretty far gone so we braced it all up and did some of the structural bits before blasting like inner and outer sills and butt welded some patches and pans in then blasted it to get the crap paint off the pans that were fitted.

That was on my FE. Since my blaster is mobile and I have a setup allowing for it, I did what Ken suggested and lightly blasted the inner sills on my fc after roughly cutting out the outer sill and cos this fc is much better than the other car (which I wouldn't have trusted not bracing but this one has solid floor and inner sill) I again listened to the guys here and used paint stripper and a polishing wheel with 80 grit on panels. My  blaster said to blast the floor from underneath to find pin holes. We didn't find many and lightly blasted both sides of inner sills. After now doing 2 of the same car, I think each car may need to be assessed individually in some respects.

I found that the rares pans on the fe were OK but the two sets of cross members that meet the gearbox mount area between the A pillars (front of main body) we're short and really not useable at all. So if I do a four link etc I might use them somehow then. I spoke to ray recently. He sent me an updated list. I have a few bits to get but not much left to get. We made our own bits from the A pillar across but using a mates fab workshop. We did them exactly like the originals in a decent gauge.

Hi it's been a while.. been doing my favorite things still blasting a couple of small parts. Have a couple of ideas one around the air cleaner.. making it look like a holden 186s air clean even thou it's a Ford ..

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/46be56af27f809779db9568f7088e4f9.jpg)

The other idea I'm playing around is the eh gauge pod on the dash in place of the ash tray.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/e6ad69170a6043290157479079782ac1.jpg)

So that's what's been going on ...

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Looking good jut keep on plugging along.
I have a FC speaker grille if ur after one ?

Thanks Pete, always looking after me .. I will have to check out how bad my real one is ...  I say that because I think you might think that is the grill im going to use ..  Its is actual I section I cut out of a really bad ute. Was nearly the only bit realy left stuck in a vise on my bench .  I wide angle shot will show you what I mean ..  the gill just came with it. ::   ;D ;D ;D

If that was my real dash I would be a bit worried, I have bee hacking it it a bit  ...   :D


(http://i.imgur.com/vazNEPqm.jpg)

Its amazing some times its just cheaper to buy the whole item..  Been searching for HQ,HZ ...  rear backing plates and found I could buy the entire diff for cheaper then the backing plates by them selves.

I need to do a small adjustment to the inner circle so the bearing fits thru, but other then that they will bolt straight on with the HT drums, on the LJ diff. The HQ have the inner mount section pressed in more, this is required if you dont the wheel cylinder hits the shaft flange which holds the studs. Love to say it was my idea but found all the info here http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=20071 ($2)

Other things I have been doing is cleaning up the steering box and the vertical channel pillar, All sand blasted and painted. Have to take some more pictures of these.

(http://i.imgur.com/Z2NaGcEm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/TYbcMGYm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/fsqTXvBm.jpg)

Car seems to be coming along nicely cam  :)

Great progress Cam

Are you running the LJ diff, with HQ stud pattern? I have a HR front end that will be running HQ, & I have a LJ diff lying around, so wanted to convert that to HQ as well.

Cheers
Marc

Thanks Graham ..  Slow and steady   ..   ;D   I try focusing on the diff at the moment, hope to finish it while on holidays.  And when not on that working on the gauge holder for the dash.  

Hi Marc I'm going to running all the early stud pattern..(Ht not HQ), Main reason for this less work on cutting and welding the diff.  I have found I can run HQ spindles on the HR front with HT rotors and calipers. Which lowers to from 25mm with out any issues. And on the back run HT drum (same size HQ) on the LJ diff using the HQ backing plates. Need the HQ backing plates to allow space between the cylinder and stud flange. I will use a 7 inch booster with a XD master which runs the pipes out to the guard not towards the motor, which will look neat. 

I think you would have to do some major work on the axles to get them to the HQ stud pattern. I think it would be easier just to get the HQ diff cut down..  And if you were going to go that far I would go commodore diff and front rotors. Which a lot of people have done.

Its hard making these decisions, as there are so many options.   

I went commodore stud pattern because of tyre choice... and because I was stripping commodores and had all the parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today finally did the bolts up on the diff.  New seals and bearings fells nice an tight.. Happy with the KBS paint looks nice a glossy

Brake tube, cylinders and pads in the mail. Will throw them on as soon as they come in.

(http://i.imgur.com/GQkreYPm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/0IE1qbWm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/5OqlyN6m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Wpm7UPZm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/r6l8bYXm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/oRZeZd0m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/nOHmGtnm.jpg)

Still playing when I get a chance with the gauge pod ..  need to work on the front of the pod to blend in to the dash more happy with how the back looking matching the dash lines..  So more cutting, grinding and welding to come.

(http://i.imgur.com/utaxvJVm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/nPQOfNsm.jpg)

For any one trying to make double flares in brake lines, should stay away from the following double flare kit. 1 in 5 attempts is just shit even doing on the tips and ticks.
(http://i.imgur.com/TmTMYIym.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/6V8W59Mm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/mdQccanm.jpg)

But I can vouch for this one as on the first attempt created the perfect flare. (I know I should of had the smarts that the cheap kit was going to be bad :() This one was only $60 which is a little cheaper then the ducks guts $300 hydraulic. Which I could not justify. ::)
Now I will complete the brake line on the diff.
(http://i.imgur.com/XaAOraym.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/M4nEVusm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/WV4Nfqvm.jpg)

Blasted and cleaned up most of the brake parts for the drums. new HQ brake shoes, HR,HT..etc brake hose and HQ cylinders,  Gave all which I thought needed it a coat in caliper red paint.  Just cleaning up hand brake lines from the HQ diff hopefully will work well. They have a plastic coating on the cable which seems to help them side a lot nicer then the LJ cables which don't have a coating.
(http://i.imgur.com/b33McSnm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/jnCK9Cbm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/BBaDBNam.jpg)

Ah well Cam, another valuable life lesson learnt ::)
I really miss not having the hydraulic flare machine I was using at Hoppers Stoppers. I also miss not being able to custom make my own brake hoses as well :'(
In fact now I think about it, there's a lot of things I was able to do there which I can't do now. :o

Being able to scour the brake components books and order things just on the off chance that they might work, and then send them back when they didn't  :P

Your project looks very good. Ticked off another thing as finished.

Ken

I did the same silly thing buying a cheap tool years ago & it too resulted in the inevitable failures. I still wonder what made me think there was even a chance it could do the job.
Great photos of your progress. Thanks.

I have this one and i spend more time getting it back off mates than i do using it.

highly recommend it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L43CbOTMds0

Branded in Australia as aeroflow.


And i use this bender

http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/164894

Brake lines finished on diff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170121/a1f8a6c1a721ec0b356872a74e692bc7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170121/be1d1d618676c73dc629a82ce79c3b2b.jpg)

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Just make it easy to take off to get your u bolts in.

Looks good mate..

Thanks Pete  .. I did think about the u bolts when making them..  Should be easy to take them off..

Well went for a walk..  (Ballarat swap meet) wow that is one long long long walk.  So much stuff.

Was a little surprised not alot of FC bits, but there was some.

Picked up some cheap panic straps and swapped out the poor chrome for the good and gave them a clean.  Came up really nice.
(http://i.imgur.com/UW6Koelm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/sGf8XVEm.jpg)

Picked up a cheap electronic distributor and leads for the 186. Will give it a clean up.
(http://i.imgur.com/dRx2Jyxm.jpg)

And some odd chrome and stainless bits.
(http://i.imgur.com/OIjqvYrm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/rFjoAY4m.jpg)

Hope to get some window channels and the hand brake cables that connect to the diff painted very soon..  So more pictures to come what this space.

Finished paining the window channels and handbrake cables

(http://i.imgur.com/6zuIEobm.jpg)


Also picked up a xy fuel tank. Which I hopefully can fit and increase the fuel capacity from 9.5 gallons (43.2 litres) to 16.4 gallons (74.6 litres).

(http://i.imgur.com/GvRVrajm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/8WwyvR3m.jpg)

Well finally did it I got the car to the sand blasters... ;D  Should be done in a couple of days but I can not pick it up until next week.. Just the shell and K frame at this stage.

 cam
    can l ask what price was it to get done

     thanks greg      (fcwagoon)

I was quoted no more then 1000. I will keep you updated as I go along as im not doing all parts together. Im not getting the diff and front end done im hoping its around 800 to 900. 

  That sounds reasonable considering the work,time and products  that you would need to
  do it yourself
 
                    greg

I had an XY fuel tank in my sedan when I first got it. The only problem with it is if you use the original fuel filler position below the boot lid on the sedan, it pisses fuel out every time you take off because the tank sits a lot higher. We are using one in my sons Station wagon and I don't expect the same problem because the filler neck is a lot higher and on the side. It's worth the effort though.

Greg ,  I think the thing I like about it the most is the fact I know all the rust points on the shells return and I can address them. A real piece of mind, hate to do heaps of work and then pull it apart to address the rust.

Ole,  I did think of that. And I have already cut out a filler off an old wreaked ute.  Which will let me add the fuel filler to the side of the car.  I will then fill the back filler spot. I will post some pictures later of the piece I have. I will take on board what said about the height and sit it as low as I can. And make sure it does not drag when going over thing..

Does any one know whats the lowest height of the fuel tank..????   I'm sure I will find some document, but a lot easy to ask you guys. ;D. 

Cam I don't understand why the fuel would come out the filler I use commodore tanks and have not had any issues and I just use a straight neck (normal FC) not the unleaded filler flap one if the tank is low enough in the boot I don't see why the fuel would leak and is the cap not sealing.
The top of my commodore tank in my sedan is level with the boot floor and the bottom of the tank is not below the bottom of the diff, I know your tank is a different tank but I think the same thing counts you don't want the bottom of your tank below the bottom of the diff.
Hope it makes sense.
Regards
Neil H

From a recent post on the FB EK forum, I recall that it was stated that the tank should not impact on the departure angle. In other words it should not protrude beyond a plane between where the rear wheels touch the road surface, and the lowest rear body point.  Hence some fabricated drop tanks seen with the rear chamfered.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Neil, in my car with the XY tank and the standard fuel filler position, the fuel used to piss out on acceleration especially if you had more than half a tank of fuel. If you check out the XY tank you'll notice that the top half of the tank sits a lot higher than the boot floor, that is so that it can accommodate the spare wheel recess. I'm only relaying my experience and I am sure that if Cam mounts the tank in the same fashion so that it doesn't sit too low, he will have the same problem.

I can see some differences in the fuel filler height between the FC and XY. I might have to see what I can do to raise the input point.   Great Info and pointing out guys, appreciate the comments and help   ;)

XY                                                                                                                                                                                       FC
(http://i.imgur.com/BGe0ersm.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/YAgPeyDm.jpg)           (http://i.imgur.com/yEx5LNcm.jpg?1)(http://i.imgur.com/Rii3P0vm.jpg)
Just looking at the filler hole I have cut out . It going to make it hard with the cars side beading at the bottom of the filler hole to raise it up.   I might have to use the top of two filler holes to make one nice filler impression to raise it up to the flat part of the rear quarter .   Have to check badge heights next... :o
(http://i.imgur.com/nNAEDi7m.jpg)

  cam

 would it be easier to stay original  and just put a baffle in the neck to stop back flow
 l can remember the baffles at the top of the necks when you push the nozzle in it opens up

   just a thought
                             greg (fcwagoon)
 

Well shes home with her wounds showing, Nothing really that I did not already know about So im really happy..   ;D

(http://i.imgur.com/vQMugMTm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/uCxYOLOm.jpg)

Lots of good bits
(http://i.imgur.com/1gG0OJLm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/jtFEELcm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/LlYTEWUm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/fApg6F7m.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/N0PZNpNm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Dvw6VNhm.jpg)

Some fly wire in the floor..  thanks god for replacement floor pannels
(http://i.imgur.com/Jwx7s4qm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/fcIrtOgm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/xOnPP63m.jpg)


K Frame has more to replace then I like, but its nothing I can not fix.
(http://i.imgur.com/UwY4Olbm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/7vPRdmSm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/PdelKoxm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/0e7TxUom.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/byOROdKm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/43UrCuEm.jpg)

Cam I've just done the same thing with my FB/EK ute project and it lets you see all the good and bad, money well spent I thought.
Regards
Neil H

Agree Neil,  If I do it right, I hope not to have any rusty surprises later down the track.

Started on cutting and welding yesterday on the passenger side lower A Pillar.  Happy with the end result  ;D   Will now look at the out section of the pillar

First cut out the inner section
(http://i.imgur.com/4FDFSuWm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/GhxwLldm.jpg)

Made new section
(http://i.imgur.com/vcBgCxNm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/lTZbiobm.jpg)

Welded in with the cross member
(http://i.imgur.com/xhFpaFWm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/MzOcAgwm.jpg)

Well got on the driver side sill on , but still have small amount of work to do in the rear dog leg and then compete the B Pillar. Which has some trick shapes. :-\

Put some supports in before any cutting and welding
(http://i.imgur.com/MDLny6Dm.jpg)

Remove all paint and prep with the KBS wash and rust blast
(http://i.imgur.com/Oigo2Hjm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/E9qUUavm.jpg)

It got some KBS paint on the back and on the inner sill before assembly  and I will make a long paint brush and put on a third coat  as I sill have the small section open behind the dog leg.
(http://i.imgur.com/LSQ1owJm.jpg)

Welded in place
(http://i.imgur.com/AKiKtkNm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/90FXBfmm.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/bDqNQdIm.jpg)

Now all I have to do is the other side, This is one very lengthy process. I just hope I got all that rust because i do not want to do that again. :P

That looks great Cam, you've done a terrific job of the inner sill shape at the A pillar. For you can do that shape you can do anything  :)

Make sure you weld that end on the back of the sill at the C pillar when you've finished putting paint in!

Regards.  Ken

Thanks Ken means a lot coming from you. Im sure your done your fare share of cars and sills.

HI All still just slowly moving along with the build. Purchased a 7 inch dual brake booster and a KBS fuel tank kit for the XB fuel tank I want to put in. 

All cutting and welding is currently been on the drivers side of the car.
Bottom of the B pillar , and holly shit Im glad there is only two of these. There is just so many curves and angles  :o  The passenger side is not as bad so hopefully not a full rebuild.
(http://i.imgur.com/QWRAgPsm.jpg)    (http://i.imgur.com/IvmM2oqm.jpg) (finished B Pillar images are coming IMGUR is having issues at the moment, will post next time)

Cut out and prep the drive side floor ready for some KBS and weld thru primer, would be nice to get at least one floor panel in on these long weekend.  ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/rscCesXm.jpg)    (http://i.imgur.com/JFeePdGm.jpg)

Slow & tedious work Cam but it leaves no questions about the integrity of these sections now & later.
I think that's very important for your own peace of mind. It's a terrific job.

Thanks Dave and you are right it is a great peace of mind. Its funny but is also amazing to really see how these cars went together in the day. You real don't ever take the time in looking how they are constructed.

The missing B pillar images
(http://i.imgur.com/bLBmMZIm.jpg)    (http://i.imgur.com/Il8VdOZm.jpg)    (http://i.imgur.com/TjgpUKsm.jpg)

Very thorough looking work there Cam. I have a pretty good pair of the b pillars from an FB parts car I intend to use on my ek van. The problem is all the double and triple panels in the a and b pillars always seem to be rusty inside at the bottom. Looks like your leaving nought to chance.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work there Cam, car is coming along nicely  :) :) :)

Thanks Graeme and Clay

Worked on the the section in front of the rear wheel well. Thought I would coat the inner front section thats right blow it while i have its top off.   
(http://i.imgur.com/Kz3vmxwm.jpg)   (http://i.imgur.com/I7dNsmym.jpg)   

Every thing got a coat of KBS rust blast,  Not sure going to have a hot enough day to get any paint on there.  Have the heaters on flat out trying to get some temp up. Fingers crossed.
(http://i.imgur.com/HhfXFLKm.jpg)

Front floor section bared where welding required and a coat of weld through and some holes for welds ready to go in.
(http://i.imgur.com/TjwWOjam.jpg)

Good stuff Cam.

Regards

Wayne b

Hi All

Had a play around with the mounting of the new dual 7 inch booster. 
(http://i.imgur.com/rq1XJMbm.jpg)

Looking at cutting out and replacing the fire wall section where the old brake and clutch cylinders were
(http://i.imgur.com/cXphcdtm.jpg)

Started by marking old and new locations on new backing plate.  Then removing old plate
(http://i.imgur.com/kag1Dc2m.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/VNnc7Zgm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/0lBjnfom.jpg)


Will move the brake peddle to the middle of the old housing.
(http://i.imgur.com/Y9uSJxRm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/vuP2ILHm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/sZG7zb0m.jpg)

Happy with how it looks so far.  Will make bushes for the housing and lathe the pin shorter and to have the new grooves for the location clips on either end.  Also make a new brake switch and rubber stopper mount.   So more to come on the booster.

Have the driver side floor in.  Just realised I have no picture of that . And have the rear floor prep ed and ready to go in. I have not started that as I need to put the seat belt plate in the lower B pillar while I have it open.
Got some 3mm plate and nuts to make the plates. Once the plates in I will close up the B pillar and weld in the rear floor panel.

I have a few seat belt question so will ask them in one of the already opened seat belt threads.

I also got a floor tunnel from the rod shop, which Im way off putting in.

So thats a bit of an update.   ;D ;D  Still loving every minute on the FC... 

 

Just working on the new booster and pedal combo today

front driver floor
(http://i.imgur.com/4ddDitCm.jpg)


Boost plate cut out, bushed out the pedal either side on pin and  bump stop and brake switch housing altered for new location.
(http://i.imgur.com/rhQIVrEm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/i1UKBVZm.jpg)

Have to cut down the main pin to size, cleaning up some welds, blast and then coat of paint. And we should be complete
 

Lathed pin down
(http://i.imgur.com/9nqwgd5m.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/ROQG9vRm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/V54yf3Tm.jpg)

Update

Have cut out firewall section, and have replacement tacked into place. had to do some adjustments as I had not thought through to the steering columns position, and how it would intrude on the pedal. But i have now got that fixed.
(http://i.imgur.com/tzDRurMm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/mF6wRw3m.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/yJ4s30Pm.jpg)

Good stuff....

Regards

Wayne b

Steering box has been rebuilt, all new bearings and seals. I used the Penrite steering box lube which is a really runny grease.  Just need to decide on a colour and paint it.

(http://i.imgur.com/8DBTm4Sm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/8oeOyGum.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/3vqS0JDm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/OCXmbfJm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/2XmAU0gm.jpg)

What steering box you using Cam? Looks like HKTG maybe for more mechanical advantage when you fit wider rubber.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Your got a good eye its a HK, I have the collapsible steering column that came with it.  I think my biggest concern is to just get the it mounted in the correct position as the mounting holes are a little different. But i have a plan  ;D ;D

I hear say that three holes line up and a boss needs to be made up for the fourth. Very interested to see how you go with this. I believe there are two different ratios. Did you get the worm gear re done?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Clay I inspected the worm gear for dents and wear , and it looked ok so i did not do anything to it. Once back together it feels tight with out and adjustments. I want to get the steering wheel connected before making too many claims that its all great.   ;D

Got the master cylinder (XA,XB) and front rotors (HT V8), checked and a new seal kit in put in. Got it done a Lusky's in Ballarat. Nice guy in a little work shop, was really helpful. Explained everything and full of really interesting info, and showed me all the workings of the shop.  Was really cool.   

(http://i.imgur.com/4SyicFcm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/gevjqSqm.jpg)

Finished cleaning up the fire wall, had to weld on the inside of the car. Was not happy with a section so cut it out and weld a new section in. Painted the pedal assemble. Was happy to see it all bolted up.  Will now move back to the rear floor section.

(http://i.imgur.com/UXbuO8Fm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/wpFuUQGm.jpg)  (http://i.imgur.com/TChfUw7m.jpg)  Sorry a bit blurry this one (http://i.imgur.com/WPCwwwhm.jpg)


Has anyone used anything other then the KBS Numetal to repair their steering wheel cracks. ???

 Cam   

    l have used 'Sun-Fix '    two part epoxy putty . you can buy it off eBay 
     done two fc wheels already and found it great to work with, fills well and sands back good
      still have a little left after two steering wheel repair jobs so it goes along way

        greg(fcwagoon)

Cam ,don't want to say too much on the forum but I might have an idea on that wheel repair .Can call me on 0755477094 .Haydn

👍👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have been doing some work on the steering wheel.  Its a EH Prem wheel and making it match the HK auto column. Needs a final sand and will be taking it off to get 2 Pak black.


Gap made using Dremel
(https://i.imgur.com/6nsrAC5m.jpg)
Proxy putty pushed into the gap
(https://i.imgur.com/UhtrOgIm.jpg)
Enlarged the diameter to match column
(https://i.imgur.com/N2kcSaOm.jpg)

Clever stuff Cam, will look great and keep people guessing how you did it.

Ken

Got some lovely red text for the first time saying its been over 120 days ..   ooops its been a while on the updates then   ;D

Hope every one had a great break  :D


Well had the steering wheel painted gloss black (2 pac) and I have painted the next two sections in gloss as well happy with the results.  EH/EJ prem wheel on a HK auto column.

(https://i.imgur.com/X6ywGzxm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/XiT3Y0sm.jpg)

Also been working on the XB fuel tank and its mounting.
first cut a big hole
(https://i.imgur.com/z4hxAYTm.jpg)

Second make a frame on the tank so its s nice snug fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/zkt1gKcm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/V3E04SRm.jpg)

Insert frame onto the hole. I cut the frame to have a slot all way around and was put on in sections. The frame sits on a 10mm original floor lip down each side, and slips into a slot at the back. The diff hump rear sheet metal is repositioned to meet the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/34uB0rXm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/AqzFbbfm.jpg)

A few more test fits and clean up the frame will be done. Then will look at moving tank inlet and then I will use a KBS kit the inside and out side of the tank. Stop rust and seal any pin holes and the seam of the tank.

Will try not wait 120 days for the next post.. :o

Well I got the tank in and looks neat
(https://i.imgur.com/JooYv6bm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ZwgBtPHm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Z07BAfam.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/556Qa5Tm.jpg)

Had a bit of rust to remove under the brake light on the back passenger side .Done
(https://i.imgur.com/AuFzwOTm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/nSPhc6pm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Ufdsw5Em.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/G0fXWYum.jpg)

Also need to replace the entire long narrow piece under the very rear of the car. Only have this cut out at this stage. Need to clean up and give it a coat of weld thru prime.
(https://i.imgur.com/AaENglsm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/aY99Yadm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/HdWaJTMm.jpg)



Its amazing the rust that's under that original black seam sealer ..  Its really stuck on the car well, but under it is rusty as hell..  Its worth removing and replacing.

Looking great Cam looking forward to lots more photos and don't let it go over 120 again alright 😜
Regards
Neil

Some really nice work Cam.
I found rust under the old seam sealer also & guessed it was just due to the stuff becoming porous &/or cracking with age. I agree it's worth pulling out & replacing to avoid surprises later.

Two new rear lower quarters going in, Half way through the drivers side which was the worst.. 

pre cut and removed spot welds
(https://i.imgur.com/CzkjCaZm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/6jZgDNom.jpg)

A little rusty on the inside  :o   Sand blaster can not get behind the inner wheel wells
(https://i.imgur.com/l2cMJLMm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/fmR0sBhm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Kc2D8flm.jpg)

Finished inner wheel well section of rust
(https://i.imgur.com/jfEQCUem.jpg)

Hole to patch.  Then move on to the tricky inner lower boot section with the three pressed panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/q2HSu1Am.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/oxIgCbVm.jpg)

 cam
         if your interested l have that inner square panel
         can send a pic
          lm in bacchus marsh

              fcwagoon

That would be awesome Greg send me a pic and how much you I want for it, Thanks mate

(https://i.imgur.com/tmeL28V.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/xKvYm6P.jpg)

Hi all

Well I have been a bit slack when it comes to the car, but I did pick up a couple of bits and pieces and make some butt weld clamps.

186S headers
(https://i.imgur.com/qcqz3GXm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/W8GKboNm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/r5e3qQhm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/TKyqO0ym.jpg)

Chrome Indicator stalk  (HR HD)   which I believe matches the HT chrome gear lever better.
(https://i.imgur.com/v9g5PaOm.jpg)

Weld Clamps
(https://i.imgur.com/4C3vbmTm.jpg)


Do have some question for you all.  Any one had there exhaust or parts ceramic coated ..  ?  want to know is it worth it and who they used.


Also with the outlets of the orginal headers do both holes have threads ???..  the ones I picked up only have one hole threaded, I think this might be as the other holes failed and then been drilled out.

Nice score on the headers Cam. I believe both holes should be tapped. I painted mine with Duplicolour high heat rattle can. Contains ceramic apparently. It is looking ok but I’ve only warmed it up a few times since fitting the manifold, which is stock 186. A budget solution as the motor may be replaced by a grey.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All the best with your resto Cam ..Mine, a FC Sedan special is about the same stage body wise ..Have built a new grey motor ...I cant post images ..I have an iPhone 3 ..tried direct from phone..have created a file ..just wont up load ..can you send step by step ..no young ones here very often to give me a guide..some of the guys here in Sydney asked me to post images as we progress the resto ..if you read this Ken ..I sorted the "miss " in the engine ..I cant say exactly what it was ,other than a combination of distributor and carby problems ...Vern

Nice job with the clamps, Cam.  Got a bit of panel welding coming up?

I've spoken to a few people who've had their headers ceramic coated and they're all pleased with them.  Apart from looking good, they reduce heat to surrounding parts.  These jobs were all done in WA, though - probably a bit far for you  :)  From what I've read in the past (but have no experience with or know anyone who's had them long enough), they should also look and last longer due to less heat cycling.  As far as "Are they worth it?" - I can't answer that as it depends on your own needs/wants/budget I think.

Cheers,

John

Thanks Clay and John for the feed back..   I would expect that the old rattle can jobs like the dupi and VHT FLAMEPROOF™ COATING would work ok. And would look great for a long time, but I would think the thicker coating that the company's put on would be much better with the heat side of things.


I might try the VHT FLAMEPROOF™ COATING, have seen a few reviews of it been good and looking great after years of use.   At roughly $20 a can I would only need one or two cans. I'm sure the local companies the do ceramic coating would be close to the $200.  If the rattle can bubbles and peels some years down the track I'm sure I can remove it and get it done professionally.   


And yes plenty of panel work for Cam coming up...  ;D

Some updates


Rear section behind the fuel tank  . added water weep holes using home made dimple die. 
(https://i.imgur.com/A4wovCYm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/2cTWX49m.jpg)


Cleaned up exhaust manifold
(https://i.imgur.com/NGw4L0Cm.jpg)

First coat of VHT flame proof primer..   VHT Flameproof coating ($2)
(https://i.imgur.com/QrR4nXcm.jpg)

Good stuff Cam.  Can you show us your home made dimple die?

Cheers,

John

One home made dimple die

(https://i.imgur.com/wvDCu8Pm.jpg)

A few trial runs to make it right...  for the size I wanted.  I used my 20ton hydraulic press to push the die together..
(https://i.imgur.com/XAQ1Aqdm.jpg)

I love a home made tool 👍👍👍


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work Cam!

Hi Cam ..Yes you have a project ahead of you ,just like me ,I note your engine bay looks to be originally body colour like mine over done later in black ,same as mine ,it must have been 'the thing to do ' ..any way i'm back to original India Ivory in the bay ..It looks good..bugger of a job ,lots little hard to get to places ,but im happy with final result..
By the way ,thanks for your advice on posting images ,and to Dave Bolton ..My daughter finally had time to sit down with me ,she is not familiar with Imgur .and I know nothing.So I now have a FC Holden file on this PC where I put images from my phone .She has made it simple ,on the forum site when I select "add image to post " up comes the FC Holden file in " POST IMAGE" ,I select what I want ,and bingo ..They are smaller than other images ,but viewers can double click on them and enlarge ..I'll watch your resto also with interest ..
I found a guy in my area who is on the RMS web site as engineer and authorised inspector for safety equipment ,,I contacted him with regards fitting seat belts as my car has never had any ,and some guys on this forum have supplied me with some info ..Interestingly..he said " I got my certification because I wanted to specialise in child safety seats and harnesses ,when I advised my business insurance company ,they put the premiums thru the roof ,so I gave it up "...Govnm't encourages small business ,corporations kill it "

Well time for a catch up .....   :P

First some items that I have picked up.
EK wiper motor,   Might look at the ford xc motor on this base. As mention in the forum (somewhere)  :P.
(https://i.imgur.com/qdepukum.jpg)

Interior light.  Which I cleaned up rust and gave a spray on the back with some rust protection paint. Just need a nice cheap led globe and new plastic.
(https://i.imgur.com/RhHGU4mm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/dKHvDSMm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/rYcGiG9m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/1XOqecMm.jpg)

Bonnet hinges which have been zinc plated and with new springs
(https://i.imgur.com/1AmjyBEm.jpg)

I also found a cheap hr heater chrome switch plate, which I might incorporate with some heat/air unit. Still some investigating on this I think it woudl not look out of place on the FC dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/Yn3bWZx.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/sMWK2DV.jpg?1)

I have been working on the boot rear drivers side. The complex bit.
  Started by making a press plate and wooden mold, and the results were better then I expected .. ;D
  (https://i.imgur.com/nuplGj9m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/kKCEqaIm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/9NNNovTm.jpg)


Then worked on the complex cylindrical piece, A lot of banging with the hammer on Pa's old anvil and made a nice replacement piece
 (https://i.imgur.com/mpa9jP9m.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/rXxFZNsm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/sDnhx9pm.jpg)
Then made the piece to join them together welded all together
(https://i.imgur.com/Hf8tre8m.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/PPDEsOnm.jpg)

Will hopefully get some grinding done and and update with some more pictures tomorrow if temps not to hot.  I know I have to take some other photos of things done just have to remember what I have done since last time on the forum.   ;D

The heather switch concept is interesting Cam. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Some real good metal shaping & patching going on there too.

Hey Cam ..your really into it ,Tramp rods ,I think were K'Mac ,and they had front anti sway bars also ,and Armstrong offered heavier shocks to go with them. Dismantalling is easy ,putting it all back I reckon is 4 to 6 times at least slower ,that's the final satisfaction that makes it worth it ..Don't good pics make a difference to post ...Vern

Good progress Cam. Yep photos are gold, thanks to the lass.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice patchwork Cam.  I used a similar globe for my FB interior and like the result - it gives a much whiter light.

Chees,

John

Hi All
       Sorry I missed a step, I have forgotten to take pictures of the other section I was working last post ???, will remind my self to do that.

 Got to start lining up the right rear lower section, and don't the butt clamps work a treat if you have them.  ;D

(https://i.imgur.com/hkQpyR5m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/DWlokWhm.jpg)

Added a drain hole to the bottom of the rear section. Hopefully when cleaned up and painted will look and work better then the added screw driver stabbed holes. (Well thats what I thought they looked like)

(https://i.imgur.com/w4EgLHxm.jpg)

I have also come to the conclusion Im not the best or efficient welder. I came to this conclusion from the amount of grinding going on...    :o :o    :D

(https://i.imgur.com/bqb4VJmm.jpg)

G'day Cam  :)

I know, I know,  I hit the ENTER button a bit earlier..  Luck i could go back and edit the post...   :D :D  Thought I might get away with it.

 ;D ;D ;D

Very neat job on the drain cam.

The butt clamps are great aren’t they.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey got a question for you all,  do roll up your rear fender lip..?  Mine was previously done just thinking i might clean it up and leave it like that..

(https://i.imgur.com/v6ZHhc7m.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/4tukRgum.jpg)

Here is the promised pic from the missing section
(https://i.imgur.com/J1FDTQbm.jpg)

Welded in just need to perform a little tidy up and it will be done.
(https://i.imgur.com/TyumGU7m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/z1QuEf2m.jpg)

It’s pretty essential if you run wide rubber specially if lowering cam. Years ago I managed to pull the non rolled lip out where the tyre contacted it on full lock. I was running 185 65 14 tyres on 6” rims set in as close to the top ball joint as I would dare on HR disc front.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work Cam keep the photos coming mate I really like seeing builds on the forum it is a pity we are not seeing more.

I had an issue with my front tyres when I finished my Sedan and bought a guard roller off of ebay used a heat gun to gentle warm the paint so it didn't crack and again gentle rolled the guard out slightly, no more rubbing issue.  ;D
 
Neil

no real need for the lipped rear guard ..the inner guard pretty much sits out/in more than the lip

Your right there Wayno Will just clean it up then

depends what tyre youre gonna run.
im gonna try and get some more guard clearance seeing how close i can get that inner to the quarter panel.
seeing as though i got my 1/4 panel off i can check pretty easy
i will get back to you on that one.
anway youre doing great with the build .keep it up!!!!

I can’t help anticipating that you might want to tidy up and improve that inner wheel well area while you have such good access to it Wayno. It is pretty common to bend the seam up and move the tub wall in for an additional 20mm or so clearance as you are more than likely aware.


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Apologies for hijack Cam. What I was going to say about the wheel arches, I agree you don’t gain any clearance as the inner guard is in the same plane so to speak. On the other hand you see it on a lot of cars, mainly the type that crawl over speed humps etc. they run wheels that just sit under the outer edge and look great. Hard cornering and unexpected bumps cause the tyres to rub occasionally.


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Thanks for all the feed back guys.  After some in vestigating I was reward with some of my old friend. mr rust.  ;D. So I have to make a decision on the cut out and how much.

(https://i.imgur.com/vJ47rcxm.jpg)

Few little finds at the Ballarat sap meet.
Glove box badges. External door handles. Wiper motor VN. Wiper bezels. Fuel cap. Internal door pulls. 

(https://i.imgur.com/hSYNfaRm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/AZs4lD0m.jpg)

Now I have a question about glove box badges.. There are different types can some one put together some images With what models they were on..  Just some home work for you all.  Now I say that I hope the info is not already in the forum.  ::)

(https://i.imgur.com/1Q3qRRtm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/Zo6Abjum.jpg)

There are only 4 in FE/FC glovebox.
Holden Special on the FE specials
Special on the FC specials
Station Sedan on FE/FC station sedans
and a plain solid bar with 3 markings, the centre and each end. on the standards, commercials and business sedans. 
(https://i.postimg.cc/xJQjRXKp/IMG-0421-1.jpg) ($2)



(https://i.postimg.cc/CdLSxTJ8/IMG-0423.jpg) ($2)
Cheers Stewy   8)

Thanks Stewy Thats just what I was looking for.

Hi all

Just some seat belt plate work this week.

Cut out plates to spec's 150x75 ,   100x75 and 75x50,     > 5mm radius corners
(https://i.imgur.com/L0FAkXrm.jpg)

Got my 7/16 UNF nuts grade 8 and weld them on, (I have also converted to copper based weld thur paint compared to the zinc which spatters alot more)
(https://i.imgur.com/mPvMDu1m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/HFEmvuym.jpg)

Used a length of wire to pull the B pillar plate up to its position. Helps that the bottom of the B pillar is off..   ;D  Then used a long bolt to pull it into position before spot welding into position.
(https://i.imgur.com/HVjf8Olm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/euf2Q8hm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/8LRYfYDm.jpg)


Also welded up the outer hole on the B Pillar. 
(https://i.imgur.com/lInrabPm.jpg)

Nice work Cam. Have to do the b pillar on my ute but it is a lot easier as it is wider, there are access holes, and the inside is covered by the head lining, so the plate can be screwed or pop riveted in place.

So which plate goes where? I’m guessing the larger plate on the buckle side and the narrow one must go in the top of the pillar. By the way it looks like the long plates at the top might be 150x35, not 75.
Cheers
Clay



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You got me Clay
       They are 150 x 35 and they go at the top of the B pillar.  75 x 50 at the bottom and the 100 x 75 are for the double point in each side of the tunnel.

so the b pillar plate has enough surface area..ive been going to make mine pretty soon and was wondering what size to do.
thanks for saving my time on google and this forum looking it up!
always hated that bolt head sticking outside the car
made sure i chopped my roof either side of that hole so i didnt have to fill it  ;) 8)

Hi Waynos, it might be worth checking VSB14 which gives you the minimum size (area) and metal thickness (thicker is not better), plus a few other bits to consider. Here's a link - scroll down to about page 13.

https://infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/NCOP7_Section_LK_Seating_and_Occupant_Protection_1Jan2011_v2.pdf

Cheers,

John

Just a bit of advice guys, if you are putting side and middle belts in i.e. RH, LH and centre the ADR’s now require a separate anchor point for all belts. I had to redo mine as I only had one either side of the tunnel for the side buckles and the centre lap belt.

thanks for that guys , and i apologies for my 150 x35 size that I quoted. Its not even the size I cut in the shed mine are 150 x 30 which might need some adjusting.   

The ADR states
   The device must be shaped to match the contour of the mounting surface and must have an area of not less than 3750 mm² in contact with the mounting surface.

150 x 30 = 4500mm²   which seems to much, I should of been closer to 25 width or 125mm in length.

My 75 x 50 plates   are right on the minimum value of 3750, and i will now cut up my 100 x 75 making the extra middle plates.


Lucky I have not gone to far with this.. :P

you cant really go oversize only on thickness
its a minimum square area isnt it?

I wouldn’t be overly concerned about the oversized plates, it’s better to be to large than to small. From memory I made my plates 100x75x3mm for the parcel shelf and inner guards, 200x75x3mm for the b pillars and I changed the floor plate to 1000x100x3mm and bent it to fit under the tunnel.
I’ve replied to your message with the page number on my build page with pictures.
Jim

Thanks Jim

Doing the passenger side rear lower quarter

(https://i.imgur.com/Wd5fO0um.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/XrCjyztm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/p4fHUlHm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/0cjRfsnm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/IyPM91Vm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ZRk83Tcm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G2GbOMPm.jpg)

do you have english wheel?

No english wheel but that would speed up things..  would be great to have..

how are you gonna put in the compound curve?

Sorry Wayno for slower response...   I'm guessing your talking about the lower lower rear quart panel,  my answer is just buy one and welder it in.  ;D

Hi
    Got a wiper switch the same as the well known Brett's wiper conversion post, pay $50 deliverer which as a little score (On days prices). Over the weekend had a bit of a play on the lathe making a new knob. Use a cold chisel to put some gripping groves for the chrome insert. Needs coat of black and maybe different screw but happy with the result.

 (https://i.imgur.com/aLxLiCqm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/RDa9BRJm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A9lHTRfm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/wSyJfi5m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/I45jyCum.jpg)

Very cool.

 ;)

Good job Cam  :)

Looks good

ok got ya.where you getting panels from?i just bought a tailgate skin off retro spares..its really good.i was pleasantly surprised

Mate got tailgate skins $150 from Qld mob on eBay, not Taylor’s. reckons they’re good. He was up that way so didn’t have to pay freight, and he reckoned was a good price. Either way they are both half the rare spares price if you can deal with the freight.


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I have a section of Taylor’s and Rare's  Neither have been perfect but all have been a million dollars better then the crap I cut out..   ;)

i reckon retro spares is getting them from the same guy in queensland,i bought it from victoria but it came from queensland looking at the postage
anyways its a decent bit of stuff.im about to buy an english wheel .i was going to make one and was thinking i would just buy one to see how good it was.if it was crap id just sell it on.its so good im using it,sav ing me 1000 dollars right now for the wheel and shrinker stretcher i would have needed to make it

Hi all has any one tried using a fuel link module, It transform's the ohm of any fuel sender to match your fuel gauge... I got one to match my tank to a smiths fuel gauge.  Hope it works. ;)

(https://i.imgur.com/fQFtJJOm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/dL1pmOTm.jpg)

Also has any one seen or tried to convert a speedo to a tacho , or done any alterations to the dash panel ..  would love to see pics if you have ..  Im think of doing the following to my dash to have a speedo and tacho, wiper switch and light switch .. Fuel gauge move to guage pod ... i will move the ignition switch to right of the panel. Choke will be auto, high beam light to stay will make the tacho light be like ignition light (If that makes sense) and then add the indicator lights.. See what I can find.  Photoshop picture below

(https://i.imgur.com/Xr1xclWm.jpg)

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/stinky456/20090615%20FE%20Wrap-up/2004-06-19FEProgressShots001.jpg)

I used to have a Tacho mounted to the A pillar.
Ed Ho had similar dash to your design but extended through to the centre grille, couldn't find any photos though.

That's a good looking dash you are designing there Cam :)

The dash in Glenn's pic looks pretty neat as well

A speedo is a nothing more than a tachometer, calibrated in miles per hour.
To convert one to a tacho, you'd need all the bits normally associated with a cable-drive tacho, and drive it from the engine instead of the gearbox mainshaft.  The most important part would be the distributor drive adapter.

I'm assuming you'd be custom-making a lot of these parts.  A Holden speedo turns clockwise when viewed from the rear, i.e. the same direction as the crankshaft, and the same direction as the distributor.  If you used a gear-drive, it would have to be set up to rotate in the same direction.

The next problem to consider would be what engine speed you wanted full-scale, and what angular sweep of the needle would correspond to that (270 degrees, for example).  Once you decided on those quantities, then the hairspring in the speedo would have to be changed or adjusted to give so many degrees of deflection at so many input rpm.

The more difficult part will be custom-making the glass and bezel to suit the tacho calibration.

And you could chuck the odometer out.

Or: go an electronic drive.  Sample the low-tension ignition pulses, scale the frequency to something suitable, feed the scaled frequency into a stepping motor driver, and adapt the stepping motor to drive the "tacho".  If you got the scaling factor right, you wouldn't need to modify the hairspring.  The glass and bezel would still have to be custom-made as in the cable-drive example.

All in all, I reckon it'd be an interesting instrumentation challenge.  Difficult, but nowhere near impossible.

Rob

Nice Glenn   That speedo fits well..  I like it thanks for the inspiration

Thanks Graeme  how the move going and the car..  your 28 day target must be closing in ...   did you need any help ?

Hi Rob   I was thinking of cheating and buying a electronic Tacho, mounting it onto the FC Speedo face and retro fitting the needle..  To change the location of the numbers was think of maybe some sort of clear perspex maybe molded to the shape and then vinyl sticks in the right locations. Do the same to the speedo to KM's ... Just as a rough Idea at the moment..  Make it look like it was made in the late 50's is the idea..  like it came on the car ...

G'day Cam,

28 day target is not going to happen... House is now sold, new place is organised, settlement will be mid July, now to start packing the house up.

Waiting on a panel beater/painter to come and have a look at the car and hopefully that will happen this weekend. Got an electrics issue at the moment. Was looking for the reason for no indicators working and I think I have tripped the security system - got nothing at all when I turn the key. Hopefully the auto sparky will call over soon and perform his black magic.

What I did with my dash was graft new electronic gauges into the old instrument housings and a VL speedo assembly behind the FC dial and glass.

Will give you a yell if I need an extra pair of hands....

Cheers, Graeme

Yes I. An remember that dash in the wagon.. it’s in your posts as well   That was a nice dash

graham, one of the keys has a proximity security system. It has to be near the car. There is a circle thing in the steering column I think that what that is.
fred.
PS I never tested it

Found some great pictures in the forum under . http://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=12527.0 ($2)

I seem to find these post after I talk about them.   :P

Hi Cam, I adapted a GTR dash into the FC panel but lost room for the switches. This would have meant putting a panel under the dash for them. I wasn’t happy with the end look so I am now playing with an oval cluster from Dakota Digital which will allow me to relocate the switches diagonally on both lower ends and still maintain the size dash.

this weekend played with the gauge pod in the center dash....


First shortened an eh gauge pod and added the dash contour .
(https://i.imgur.com/0Mik9MOm.jpg)

The made a frame for it to sit in.
(https://i.imgur.com/ptQ76ybm.jpg)


Tacked the frame in to the center of the dash and trimmed the dash back to the frame..
(https://i.imgur.com/ZXqzvSsm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/lkwW6uCm.jpg)

It looks better then I thought it would  .. Will clean it up some more try making all gaps even
(https://i.imgur.com/2L2vZu9m.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/vBPbOTTm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/L9Rn3JQm.jpg)

Also picked up one of the reproduction manual and cover..  going to be a nice item in the glove box.. amazed how close to the original it is..

(https://i.imgur.com/AGoMjuCm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/4tQg2rzm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/JkxSdxIm.jpg)

Before I finish off the left rear quarter, I wanted to make my battery box holder. Much easier to make and tack weld when the out side is missing...  Included on the battery box holder is the isolation switch and a circuit breaker.

(https://i.imgur.com/5LJUNDpm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/F8ojBWcm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/UifoLXNm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/1WPzxrVm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ZBPh3wym.jpg)

Hi All
       I picked up a rack and pinion off a HR front end. Just hoping some one could Identify which company kit it came from.  Im think its a commodore shortened. I could be wrong. And looks to be an after market TWR branded rack. But thats about all the info I have. lots of different numbers stamped into it.

(https://i.imgur.com/88CfWDFm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/eEJpIoFm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/kWSVoabm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/Srxl7LZm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/W7v5y2hm.jpg)

the housing looks to be 355mm long
(https://i.imgur.com/La0NDG4m.jpg)

Hard to tell in those pics, but looks like a Rodtech kit. Workmanship looks too good to be a V6 conversions one.

Thanks Longman

You could try ringing TRW and give them the numbers, they maybe able to track it down for you.

Hey mate looks like a V6 conversions one to me I have fitted 2 of theirs one to my FC and one to the ek ute I'm finishing they use a VH manual rack that is shortened and Im pretty sure both of my raks had TRW on them.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2n7pr3n.jpg)
I have other photos of the fitup if you like Cam
regards
Neil

 Pretty sure they all use early commodore racks. I know both V6 conv and Rodtech require exchange racks, so no surprise that they can have TRW on them. I bought a Rodtech and grabbed a rack from a VH wreck as my exchange. I now have a V6 conversions one.

Cam, my sedan is running a V6 conversions rack. Come over and check measurements, etc if you like. I will check the engineers report and see if that tells me what car it came out of...

Hi Graeme Are you around on Wednesday I will pop over check out the car.

Home all day mate :)

Did some work on the left rear. 

(https://i.imgur.com/UdQNzOKm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/H3jYEecm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z0dXUSem.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/hSTPno9m.jpg)

Hi Cam did you make the panel or purchase from somewhere?
Regards
Neil

looks good mate but why are you wasting your weld through primer.?
that stuffs expensive and paint doesnt like to stick to it
its not an etch primer.
dont get me wrong im not being a nitpicker.
just heard lots of bad reports about paint falling off that stuff

Wayno ..copper based weld thru primer which resists the heat that other etch primers don't resist so well, is used when after you weld you cant get back in there to protect the surfaces ,its not designed to paint over ,..cheers Vern ..

Good pics, am about to do the exact same repair on mine, using a Rare Spares panel.

I thought the idea of weld through primer was to capture some zinc in the weld pool. I suppose copper does the same job. Sorry bit off topic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Neil Purchased from rare spares on one of there sale days.

Your right Wayno I was being lazy and wasteful with the weld thur primer. It will be replaced with etch primer on the outside.

Errol I tried the zinc based weld thur primer, but I switched to cooper as I think the Mig welder worked better as it arked better and had less splatter. 

Remove my rusty rear speaker surround and will add a couple of 6x9 holes for speakers

(https://i.imgur.com/BZT9nGGm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/OGK6DkDm.jpg)

Also have sent the fuel tank into get its inlet moved. Thought I might play it safe and let someone else weld it up... Have done enough work on the car to see it to the end now :P

The tank work is being done by Regs Radiators ($2), not sure if anyone else has used him. When I get the tank back I will give some feedback on his work.

Ditto to that process ,we use the copper where welding ,and where there is a bit of copper overspray ,then the etch primer will bond to the copper ,subsequently the paint ..

Bit of rust removal and clean up on the roof..  Couple of dents to be removed and when will work on the inside of the roof.

(https://i.imgur.com/zVVwBcQm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/EGRRJ8Om.jpg)  

Still waiting for the fuel tank to come back to finish the boot space.

 What sort of insulation are you looking at for the inside roof ,
     
    fcwagoon

Good question seen the old Dynamat has roof lining... I’m sure there is a cheaper version...   have you used any.. ?

  Mine still has the black cardboard type in it, but some parts have dropped .so looks like l will be replacing the lot
   the worry is will these sound deadeners stick and stay there
 
   you can imagine the amount of heat that hits  the roof directly on top so hopefully someone
    has used something that works

       fcwagoon

Removed the ridge on the roof

Can see the long speed bump in the roof
(https://i.imgur.com/8hAQKUrm.jpg)

Using a slap file and metal file knocked the bump down, then sanded to a nice metal finish
(https://i.imgur.com/XxJDo24m.jpg)

Came out better then I thought it would
(https://i.imgur.com/tpLdMlQm.jpg)

Now to inside roof, one half cleaned up, removal of old sound deadner with low setting heat run and scrapper
(https://i.imgur.com/Bs7DSVtm.jpg)

then flapper disc and a coat of rust converter
(https://i.imgur.com/SI9T3KFm.jpg)

Nice, Great post so far.

Regards

Wayne b

Well tanks back,, Reg did a good job.  $160 to weld in new location. This should now be closer to the back of the passenger side inner mud guard. Hope to have the filler in the same location as a wagon or ute. 

Looks patchy from the bath it took, Will use my KBS tank kit to wash and paint the inside. Will then get it in the car and think about the filler pipe.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y6XmTZXm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/lNFlBvem.jpg)


On another matter has anyone fixed up there rear spring hangers them selves or is it just one things better to just buy them new..??   The Bolts are a bit worn on mine was thinking cutting the bolts out and replacing with some grade 8 bolts.

Cut and welded in the filler panel piece I had

(https://i.imgur.com/DbSIEnpm.jpg)

Cleaned up the tank ready for KBS treatment
(https://i.imgur.com/uk4SdBSm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/cYr1cOXm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/skhUyu6m.jpg)

Also brought a Tacho to pull apart and incorporate into a FC Speedo
(https://i.imgur.com/VsDI6V7m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/lL8omjCm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/I0ygYYvm.jpg)


Has any one done a speedo conversion into KM and how did you get around the etch numbers in the bezel plastic ???
(https://i.imgur.com/EDQy1Dim.jpg)

Nice work mate, it's all coming together.

No stone unturned ,good on you ,looks great ..Vern

Got a little distracted from the fuel tank picked up a old drill press $31, brought her back to life with a rebuild.


(https://i.imgur.com/1tFSPZOm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/C0AOHSem.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/fu7AczGm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/BGbET1am.jpg)

Now back to car

Ah men, we are so easily distracted.

And obviously drive belt covers are for safety-obsessed wusses.

Its so funny how relaxed things were.  I do admit the picture does not have the original belt guard on the the front as I had not finished it at that photo taken time, but its just at the front and does not cover the full length of the belt ..  The below picture from the internet of the small cover I am talking about ..  :D

 (https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwOFg2MDU=/z/4iYAAOSwVlVaB8rc/$_75.JPG)

Well Tank has been painted inside with KBS tank sealer and has had two coats on the top of KBS rust seal. Just the bottom to do and its complete

(https://i.imgur.com/iXOID7pm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/UF9It19m.jpg)

Good progress Cam.  Mine is at a mate's workshop hopefully getting the subframe repairs done finally.... Once that is done only have to plug in number plate light, adjust handbrake, work out a way to secure the base of the back seat and redirect the front brake hoses away from the upper ball joint then good for RWC and rego.....

Isn't that KBS good stuff ? ,I have put some Black Hi Gloss on with brush ,really soft brush and warmed the paint up ,and " sopped " it on ..very happy with result..

That's so cool  Graeme  so happy you have an FC back in your possessio..  Also can not wait for you to take me for a spin

 Its amazing stuff the finish with just a brush is mind blowing..  One day we will be able to just paint our cars with a brush

Well The bottom of the tank is now coated in rust seal, next is a coat of the black top coat from KBS which should dry hard and protect the tank a bit more, as it hangs blow the car.

(https://i.imgur.com/tCVyXSdm.jpg)

(https://www.bing.com/th?id=OIP.Ne0SnkQt5vKbnHOfIYMNogAAAA&w=137&h=160&c=7&o=5&pid=1.7)

Added a piece to hold the filler pipe in place. Should be hidden behind the pipe  and connected to the wheel well

(https://i.imgur.com/E7xgJsfm.jpg)

Also did some work on the tacho conversion. have the older one ready to meet the new
(https://i.imgur.com/5tTrTBNm.jpg)

also made a plate to have the old inner parts meet the new. thinking I might just have some text in the mile slot. Ie. RPM x1000

(https://i.imgur.com/qkD7wHym.jpg)   

Hi all  Did a little work on the Tacho.  Looking good so far   

Welded up the new to old housings and converted the needle to fit the new tacho shaft (which was larger)

(https://i.imgur.com/BQOrJMkm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/NK7Z8kMm.jpg)

Quick test run, works fine
(https://i.imgur.com/nK6MwAPm.jpg)  Quick vid here ($2)

Next need to work out small sticker (RPM x1000), Numbers, bezel, and lighting make sure it all lights up fine. 

You should be able to get the stickers you need from someone that makes signs, I got (brake fail ) done in reverse so I could stick it on the inside of the glass.


Billy Blackarrow

Good thinking Billy thanks, I will make some calls

Where are you i am in Newcastle N.S.W. are you close could give you the name  that did mine.

Cam  .Can give you a guy in Sydney also who did my gauge letters .for inside glass application , OIL , GEN ,TEMP ,FUEL  E  F ..all on line ..Vern .

Thanks Guys Im in Victoria tho ..  I might try the locals first, least then i get the chance to go in and check the work out.  If it falls thur I will get the NSW guys off you

Well no better to time to start on the dash

cut lines
(https://i.imgur.com/yuFgV0Ym.jpg?1)

One side stitched up
(https://i.imgur.com/80KXoFBm.jpg?1)(https://i.imgur.com/cKrVjk8m.jpg)

Other side now

Well bit of a test fit and things are going well

(https://i.imgur.com/aTBTkTRm.jpg?1)

Just need the add the signal light recess  and give it a good clean up and paint, Then its on to the ignition switch position on the dash and clean up the four gauge mount

Well got the indicator light recess in and now just need to test fit all switches and a coat of filler and paint

(https://i.imgur.com/zuOd5Xvm.jpg?1)

Picked up a clean grill, will use a few of my own good chrome bits to finish it off, But very happy with it.

(https://i.imgur.com/X1CocOsm.jpg)

Nice work on the instrument cluster Cam 👍. Can you show us how you put the indicator recesses in ?
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

John I wish i could say I used some home made jig and pressed them out ..  but all I did was used the old recess from the cluster I cut up ..  then just filled in the slots with some weld. Drilled the holes out to the correct size. simple as that.

It looks great Cam. Worth the extra mile.

Well got my dash LED indicator lamps in the post...tell me what you think

(https://i.imgur.com/Kza4E2Jm.jpg)

Light blinking vid ($2)

I think they will good once every thing comes together.   ;D

Hey Cam, the link for the video doesn’t open fully, just shows the static photo. Looks good, as you said, once it all comes together it should look great.
Jim

Wow how time flys... getting the 120 days warning .. 

Well be doing some time on another project John Deere compact which i picked up for a steel.
(https://i.imgur.com/Dq41uE5m.jpg)

Enough on that..  Back to the Car
Been working on the passenger side rear seat floor and inner guard.  Cleaned up all the rust in the rails and treated and paint with KBS and cooper weld thru , ready for the floor.
(https://i.imgur.com/71aU8pcm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/dUgx1KLm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/TsJ0dHSm.jpg)

Again a few hours spent cutting and welding

(https://i.imgur.com/LoPJ4u3m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ncKiKH1m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/IASwYdKm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YrLfgA5m.jpg)

Nice work Cam
Neil

Yep, been there, done that. Nice work Can.

Had to hammer out a new piece for just in front of the seat
(https://i.imgur.com/5vrswptm.jpg)

Drilled and spot welded in the floor
(https://i.imgur.com/PPdDpYXm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/aWzou3Em.jpg)

Started looking at the front passenger side floor and a pillar
(https://i.imgur.com/kGmcmADm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/h4bSVIsm.jpg)


Also made a good start on the driver side rear floor.. I have also put in a new section in the tunnel between the rear floor sections.
(https://i.imgur.com/pmbiJk7m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YX1bb5Wm.jpg)

also brought a new welder helmet (high recommend) not sure if that helps with the poor welds much.  but now I can see how bad I'm doing.   ;D ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/yRfPeAQm.jpg)

Great progress.

Sent from my G8342 using Tapatalk

Some in rear guard work , took off the inner layer to find a lot of rust surrounding the lead seam join.

(https://i.imgur.com/p5qQjCkm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/hQGLsLQm.jpg)

Made a new piece and weld it in..  Will have to do the other side now I know there is that much rust under there.

Finished inner
(https://i.imgur.com/FxbBB64m.jpg?1)

Nice new out rigger, will add the new mounts when I perform and engine test fit.   New mounts and out rigger from Pete Mallaby, really nice parts
(https://i.imgur.com/nvdSEkbm.jpg)

What is the scallop in the outrigger for?

Sent from my G8342 using Tapatalk

Maybe for stabaliser bar?

Im going with a heavy duty white line sway bar. And it looked close when I was doing a test fit and i did not want to risk it hitting later on. So while it was of and apart I added the scallop.

Some Floor work
(https://i.imgur.com/e447Gi9m.jpg)

New piece of tunnel between rear floors in
(https://i.imgur.com/1lwy4FVm.jpg?1)

Started on the bottom A pillar on the passenger side, Made the replacement back plate
(https://i.imgur.com/lOBFW2wm.jpg)

Man these a pillars are time consuming   :-\

Started disassemble the problem area, inner section needs work as well
(https://i.imgur.com/NaoY6jwm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/2VtQxn3m.jpg)

Started to shape
(https://i.imgur.com/j8Gsllgm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/t11gSptm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/rNwurkym.jpg)

Cut away the old and in with the new
(https://i.imgur.com/cA9hbcSm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Q7W6WMqm.jpg)

End of a full day and have one and half sides done with the inner dimpled circle made
(https://i.imgur.com/sstSe3Om.jpg)

The front section of the inner sill has a fancy u shape to hold the guard nuts, so a started on that. Found a couple bits of steel to fold it over at the right thickness.
(https://i.imgur.com/jFWqGwXm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/WA7TPrQm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/VucYAQJm.jpg)

Cut to shape
(https://i.imgur.com/847OCb4m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/DBTUsW8m.jpg)


Test fit still needs a couple of cuts to get to fit
(https://i.imgur.com/YpusOB6m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Ev3Ywg5m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/0YCvNk2m.jpg)

Nearly done on the A pillar
(https://i.imgur.com/JYYYDDom.jpg)

Also started on the chassis strengthening
First some 75x6mm flat bar bent to cut and bent to shape
(https://i.imgur.com/bGzhq12m.jpg)

Then added some crush tubes into the frame, for the grade 8 10mm bolt.
(https://i.imgur.com/7GNeBBRm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/85odVW9m.jpg)

then the 75x35mm rail angle cut
(https://i.imgur.com/UVgEVdEm.jpg)

then the front section setup ready to be cut.
(https://i.imgur.com/qQLEshYm.jpg)

A pillar nearly finished, just some cleaning up to do.
(https://i.imgur.com/msKKH1Mm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Dfu6Xlgm.jpg)

Really enjoying your step by step account Cam.

Thanks DJ

Cleaned up and a quick coat of dry mark rust paint (that every ones is using..  ;D)

Finally got it done.
(https://i.imgur.com/xcLrFsEm.jpg)

Great work cam 👍

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Looking good,keep the pics coming

Passenger side floor prep 
(https://i.imgur.com/XFsgRj0m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YZlijxim.jpg)


then started to weld it in
(https://i.imgur.com/z7zR9bSm.jpg)

Nice day to spend in the shed  ;)

Started with a hole (or hundred or so) 
(https://i.imgur.com/IQzmiqnm.jpg)

Made a tool for the small press 
(https://i.imgur.com/kjR7qJim.jpg)

Then made a patch piece for the hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/FTFgMwem.jpg)

Then weld it in place
(https://i.imgur.com/nSOWgkwm.jpg)

And start to position the new tunnel
(https://i.imgur.com/4EdAKuXm.jpg)

Thats enough for one day

Some work from the fathers day weekend, focused on the tunnel arch. From all the replies on the ek auto floor I decided to go with a different design..

(https://i.imgur.com/DETgDJym.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/k0wXIyDm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/vcnHAHYm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/CIAkFgym.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/pOM2nqpm.jpg)

Hi Cam nice work mate what Shifter are you using I assume the brace wont get in the way of it.
Regards
Neil

Hi Neil  Im going to attempt a cable column shift.  So it should not matter to much..

Good work mate hope it works out for you.
Neil

Hey Cam, I'm doing the same, shifter mechanism from a tarago, cable from a falcon. Should work a treat.

Used cardboard to help with the werid shape of the bottom arch, cut it out and welded it in
(https://i.imgur.com/812NSHEm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/DF9tdtZm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/O6F2qNDm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/AdTOCp5m.jpg)


Had to move the car for a quick project so I thought I would cleanup some parts laying around
inner headlight repair parts
(https://i.imgur.com/Qjo3v0mm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/qrSleuvm.jpg)

Headlight globe holder
(https://i.imgur.com/zVq3EwXm.jpg)

all sand blasted and rust treated, and polished
(https://i.imgur.com/Ci6V9Rlm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/SUL7laQm.jpg)

Lower HR suspension arms wire wheel sand blasted and rust treated
(https://i.imgur.com/pNuS09bm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/mPvrWUBm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/k2C0R8Um.jpg)

Good to see your still motivated Cam ..

Just some more cleaning up

(https://i.imgur.com/aHZ9I2rm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/qWnhnBfm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/qBggqhum.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/BID821Fm.jpg)

Thanks Pete.. I sort of love doing it this work .. just finding time is always the hardest thing. as you know too well  ;D

Time to get the other rocker panel on
(https://i.imgur.com/2b5dMGSm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YAmeZIWm.jpg)

Cleaned up and test fit and was happy of the first trial fitting
(https://i.imgur.com/5GfCo6pm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/XLMWpHPm.jpg)

While the bottom of the B pillar was open good time to get in the seat belt mounting plates. The top plate can be installed from the bottom of the B pillar (when rocker panel is removed) , but this is easiest done when the car is on the rotisserie as the plate needs to slide along the out side edge of the B pillar as it goes past the door hing mounting plates. If that Makes sense.
(https://i.imgur.com/IL8gFEym.jpg)  (sorry for the shit pic was late)

Got the rear drums sorted, Machined and painted.
(https://i.imgur.com/OoLBEtWm.jpg)

One of the rear springs was pulled apart
(https://i.imgur.com/EIdVYCHm.jpg)

Finally got a nice day with out wind or rain to paint some items, The internals of the rocker panel, rear leaf springs, stabilizer bolts, rear spring plates, front end lower arms and front end caps
(https://i.imgur.com/R61U1SGm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Xa8H3e0m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/UGFJi4qm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/0YMoYrRm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/hyVr4w1m.jpg)

Strewth, you've been busy Cam. Nice work

Good Job mate well done

Sills are on ..  just got to clean up the b and c pillar joins
(https://i.imgur.com/lLroCRBm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/iCfSRTHm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/uYloXdmm.jpg)

One spring put back together with new center bolts and rubber guides, old ones were shot
(https://i.imgur.com/xmxSRyim.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/yD9zQtom.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/8Efh928m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/TQB0zHjm.jpg)

Other rear spring pulled apart ready to be treated
(https://i.imgur.com/WDxeZ0Vm.jpg)

Man, you're a busy beaver Cam!

Finished of the bottom of the A pillar, now on to the B.

(https://i.imgur.com/kHZSABAm.jpg)

Looking really good Cam, you must be seeing light at the end of the tunnel soon... :)

OK B pillar done now for the C .

(https://i.imgur.com/wXAzuxFm.jpg)

Hi Graeme  Bloody covid came... I have been wanting to come over for so long and go for a spin with ya in your car.   Will have to do it soon ..  Maybe next week if your around, this week is to crazy for me at the moment.

Light at the end of the tunnel ..  I feel its a very small light at the moment, but this metal work is a very huge part of putting the car back on the ground. And I'm trying my hardest not to rush it and do it right.

Just want to drive it really   :P

gees mate . from A pillar finished to B pillar finished in 2 days ,don't think a robot can do that ,and your takin it easy to get it right , Cam The Flash , no wait Flashcam or Dashcam ...Vern

Cam, you can come and take my car cruising anytime you like mate as I am not using it all that often....

Been looking at that C pillar long enough now, thought i better start. not a lot left once you cut out the shit bits.

(https://i.imgur.com/yKku0vzm.jpg)

Started with the top bit
(https://i.imgur.com/femff4om.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/si2QJHem.jpg)

Then the inside
(https://i.imgur.com/fpocH1Pm.jpg)

Then I called it a day. I do have the outside piece cut out and marked.  (no photo)

Well done Cam, once you have it all done you will be able to look back with a real sense of achievement

All the best for the new year

Ken

Now for the outer piece

(https://i.imgur.com/CGb98d7m.jpg)

Put in place after a lot of tapping with the hammer on the old anvil
(https://i.imgur.com/hg7Cdkkm.jpg)

welded in and polished up
(https://i.imgur.com/gG5Wik9m.jpg)

Just need to clean up and reattach the door rubber channel you can see hanging off there

Gee Cam, you are making good progress now. Those rust repairs must nearly be done.

Cheers Rod

I wish that was the case Rod,  but it seems I have a terrible nack of finding  rust.. :o  :D

Another hole fixed.
(https://i.imgur.com/gsndC6Mm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/MBMzksMm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/DlKxfqam.jpg)


Now to close up the sill under the guard
 (https://i.imgur.com/cIXAjMIm.jpg)

Pieces are made to close of end of sill

(https://i.imgur.com/ASqEqjum.jpg)

But before I do I want to get some 3M cavity wax in both sides for the final seal of approval  ;D    Comes with one very long tube and 360 degree nozzle
(https://i.imgur.com/lvZhNQbm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/DH5c45Zm.jpg)

Also started to clean up the inner rear guard like I did on the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hej9UBPm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/kzurvq6m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/aaefD0rm.jpg)

now cleaned ready for a paint and to make a patch
(https://i.imgur.com/c6ScdBjm.jpg?1)(https://i.imgur.com/6B0jg6tm.jpg?1)

Also picked up some parts
1. LOKAR Column shift kit
(https://i.imgur.com/DehOtlhm.jpg)

2. Speed Spares FC Grill badge   LINK> Speed Spare FC grill Badge  ($2)
(https://i.imgur.com/3Z4SO2sm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/kOsfflYm.jpg)

Great work Cam.

Badge looks good. Bit cheaper than an original one!
Cheers
Clay

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Does the grille badge come with mounting brackets?

It does come with the bracket. The one thing if its not a metal shell its plastic with what looks like a chrome paint. Mine has a couple of small imperfections that are had to find. But other wise its looks great. And for the price I found it hard to go past.

(https://i.imgur.com/yxfT9Srm.jpg)

More great work Cam, this car will come up a treat when done. Good buy with the brill badge too.

Cheers, Graeme

Nearly finished..  just a little more cleanup to go

(https://i.imgur.com/AOJ1YYIm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/xVpNmIXm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/dFbZ8WTm.jpg)



I do have a question ???? ...  Does the small angle piece that holds the door seal, does it continue all the way to the door sill plate. See the gap in the picture below..  I have a feeling I have cut it off...
(https://i.imgur.com/t3nTHzym.jpg)

Cam,

Short answer - yes.  The weatherseal retainer continues all the way to the scuff plate.

The retainer goes just until the 45-degree section of the scuff plate, which is where the dogleg/inner wheel arch steps down to be level with the sill.  That's odd.  Your scuff plate is cut square at the rear.  Maybe this is another Special/Standard difference.

Rob

Cam ..My Special FC sedan,rear seal , yes the seal channel goes up to and under the scuff plate about an inch ,and the scuff plate is arrow head in shape ,yours looks to be cut off square ,and that observation is supported by your windlacing tunnel looking a bit short ..I have followed your resto with interest , your a gifted bloke doing excellent work ,along with many others on here ...keep well Vern .

Hi Cam,

I had a look at mine. Drivers side goes up to 7-8mm prior to the scuff plate, while the passenger side is approximately level (1mm). This area is unmolested on mine but maybe more so due to when the sills were replaced many moons ago and the scuff plates aren't entirely centred when the holes were redrilled.

(https://i.imgur.com/JyAg2Ivl.jpg)

I like the grill badge. I was unaware that there was repro's. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers Rod

Thanks for all the replies guy much appreciated, really do enjoy this forum and the people whom use it ....  I do hope when Im posting that other enjoy, even if its just a little.  ;D

My journey has not fished so more to come..  ;)

I now finished both left and right ends of the sills , I also add a little more metal to the front of the guards, made them hang down just a little bit more 

(https://i.imgur.com/pcVxNWlm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/JL5mk9sm.jpg)  (https://i.imgur.com/0Pli55Pm.jpg)

Next the inner guard, already have my piece cut to finish the inner guard

(https://i.imgur.com/F4J9wo9m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/xqo9wfmm.jpg)

Ok inner guard welded in just got to clean it up

(https://i.imgur.com/6y82IZIm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Z7qBKEtm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/0Pli55Pm.jpg)

also picked up some repo scratch plates, and like the grill badge look really nice.

(https://i.imgur.com/vJufN3pm.jpg)

I do have a question on the original or repo scratch plates ...  do they wear away at the door paint over time???????.    and has any one put something behind them to stop the movement ?

Are they the plates from rotary products? Good value at $149 for a set of 4. Can't wait to see your car done.

Yes they are good. Put a pair on my ute recently and didn’t put anything behind but was thinking some mastic would be the go.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The originals don’t wear away the paint from my experience. I think it depends on how good the fit is from the repro. If it contacts the paint smoothly it won’t be a problem

Mine weren’t a perfect fit I’ll say that. Sit proud slightly at the bottoms if I recall.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got busy and made 3/4 of my chassis strengthening bars, will make the rest once front k frame is on.

First crush tubes front and rear
(https://i.imgur.com/AhdU6fZm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/9AGgrhDm.jpg)

Made clearance for rear foot wells
(https://i.imgur.com/035pxuqm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/EUHzAUsm.jpg)

Then repeat, and you have two.
(https://i.imgur.com/CSUb1OTm.jpg)

Nice work Cam, just did the same on mine.

Final patch for the floor now going in. Now that the crush bolts are done for the chassis strengthening..  Have some sort of celebration for completing the floor.. ;D

(https://i.imgur.com/YVRLamcm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/xHaLcwum.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/fBEJAP3m.jpg)

Great work Cam. I am enjoying your journey.

I look forward in seeing her around in all its glory.

Have a ripper. Cheers Rod

Congratulations on finishing the floor, it's a great feeling!

Just some more rust being removed

Cut out and rust treated, and weld thru primer
(https://i.imgur.com/qJYNZNcm.jpg)

Weld in metal
(https://i.imgur.com/yeuxjEBm.jpg)

Grind, sand and paint
(https://i.imgur.com/yvuzFQTm.jpg)

Repaired a couple of spots over the weekend. Both near the drivers side A Pillar.

(sorry light was not good)
(https://i.imgur.com/kOhBCArm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/6zjcsXfm.jpg)

Cut the rust out and put on some rust convert
(https://i.imgur.com/6e1yTN3m.jpg)

Weld thru primer under new piece test fitting
(https://i.imgur.com/VDEzm6Lm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M4na0oAm.jpg)

Weld it in coat with primer
(https://i.imgur.com/bBaiF0Am.jpg)

Another bad spot under the front guard
(https://i.imgur.com/MRiJzWZm.jpg)

Cut out
(https://i.imgur.com/hhX48mCm.jpg)

Make a new piece
(https://i.imgur.com/uJNtIFhm.jpg)

Weld it in and coat with some primer
(https://i.imgur.com/N1tv8Uim.jpg)

Another little bit done today...

(https://i.imgur.com/iG88KQnm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/fRdwVxsm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/4FQdXpgm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/jVAo3X4m.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/QVrYJZcm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/OqpBhvXm.jpg)

That is super neat Cam. Well done as usual

New ignition barrel location moved from the old dash panel, because of the new dash panel design.


(https://i.imgur.com/CZIB6ulm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/amYvImGm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/aTBTkTRm.jpg?1)

Hi All, its been a long time .. Hope all are doing well. I'm still on the forum, and still love the posts.  Caught up with Brett_f today grabbed some gems..  Front spears and tail light surrounds.. Has got my FC blood flowing again, and wanting to do more on the car again.  So I have some pics and posts to come soon.     

Some Pics of the floor coated in the kbs products
(https://i.imgur.com/HzT29H3m.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Tu6VfI9m.jpg)

Added a plate in the roof for the sun visor.

Formed a plate to match the roof line
(https://i.imgur.com/wCDfstSm.jpg)

Used a self tapper to hold it in place
(https://i.imgur.com/5Qo21oVm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/zlmKV4zm.jpg)

Spot welded it in place
(https://i.imgur.com/VeOct00m.jpg)

Used some sealer and rivet nuts to hold the center bar in place
(https://i.imgur.com/EMu8zium.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/ISwXXfKm.jpg)

Looking great Cam.
Good idea with the sun visor bracket strengthening. Think I may also do that with mine while its in bits.

Mal

Accelerator pedal completed.  Started with a commodore pedal, and fabricated a bracket and mount plate, using the original bushes and spring.

(https://i.imgur.com/XsLuhNGm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/whXNbTpm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/fNv8AlOm.jpg)

Lick of paint ready to bolt in
(https://i.imgur.com/Ad8KSY4m.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/IO0Iknxm.jpg)

Weber 34 adm accelerator mount bracket. Started with a lot of lines and measurements, making sure cable will not hit the air cleaner and come over rocker cover    ???

(https://i.imgur.com/igxefdwm.jpg)

Drilled holes, folded on the lines and added some weld for extra strength 
(https://i.imgur.com/g9817rgm.jpg)

Final test run
(https://i.imgur.com/3n5I1bmm.jpg)

Lick of paint and happy with its look and how it works
(https://i.imgur.com/snXqyvDm.jpg)






 

Finishing off the dash for the altered gauge panel. 

Cuts made
(https://i.imgur.com/NnVXHUmm.jpg)

Replacement lip hammed out
(https://i.imgur.com/4V4xvCMm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/fAIdzlXm.jpg)

Welded in and cleaned up, happy with the result
(https://i.imgur.com/vpznqazm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/HIfVUUCm.jpg)

I just did a cable setup on the 179 X2 in my FB ute. The jugs bolt straight on the manifold which makes for very little clearence to the manifold. Also I'm running a tall tappet cover for roller rockers clearence, exacerbating the issue.I ended up setting it up to pull down on the manifold side. Using a hx v8 cable. I use the original pedal, extending to a 60mm radius, with outer bracket sandwiched between brake union and subframe leg.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221111/4c62bff47ee74b70f0851b2c6691d02d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221111/3a1fc1b1f4f00fb1aab346d5419322a2.jpg)

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Been welding holes up in the firewall, looking at a heater option and making a fuse block holder to go under the dash

(https://i.imgur.com/A4BcHRwm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/kaiEcLsm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/EQvc55Hm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/qGRjEybm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Kpu7iTPm.jpg?1)

Hi all  happy new year.  Being working on upgrades to the wiper arms and pivots, trying to get rid of the slop for a smoother running wiper. First pulled them apart
(https://i.imgur.com/svYec0sm.jpg)

Next was to lathe up some new bushes, two in each.
  (https://i.imgur.com/LYq7FC4m.jpg)

Removed the small arms and the ends of the loger arms
(https://i.imgur.com/1I6fPhgm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/0PydVmAm.jpg)

Replaced them with a bolt to cater for the ball joint ends
(https://i.imgur.com/6xi0Kufm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/9dlAbgrm.jpg)

Finished product , I can now adjust the throw of the wiper by lengthening the small arms
(https://i.imgur.com/hkAf60jm.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/2oaGZ99m.jpg)

Well done!

Rob

Thanks, that is such a neat solution to the problem. I will add that to my list of jobs to do.

Cheers

Jolls

Nice work on the wiper arms Cam