FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

thought id show some photos of an fc ute we are working on at the moment.
its pretty far gone and a huge undertaking to save .
but the owner has a dream of fixing it so we will see another fc(too far gone)
 back on the road sometime,
 sooner than later

Hey waynos great photos.... If I could see em 😉

Mate,great pic's,i just hope mine comes out that good.btw what type of mags are they on the rear,thanks,Gaz! 8)

   whats wrong with your eyesight gaz you can see there the same as the front ones

   greg

my phone wont post the pics.they are coming soon

I'll post if ya send em to me

This should be good… I've been following the work of you guys on the All thriller, No filler thread on ozrodders. Some amazing stuff going on.

Cheers
Ed

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/6e2d975484ed7119f8f7d3fe33d3cf35.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/0f9670ba6f844c280b658d7e45d65b4c.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/c2fc2c8e1ca0331abbe8b973ebc7c9ae.jpg)this how it started before blasting and epoxy primer.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/4546115fab0b4ccfaf6f0384cb89193f.jpg)rust being cut out before blasting

i will try to keep this thread updated as much as possible but it is hard to take pics with my phone at work ,especially when i forget to take pics all the time with the work camera.

A less rusty rear floor pan and left hand chassis rail from a van will be used (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/c5c67351cb18eba3a51e13ce6e1e3084.jpg)

Panelvan floor needed a bit of rust removal and fabrication also..(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/08/f739a574d09d29ec0d1cae658458ad4f.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/08/2aa45564630db9677f6dddb55c4f07d0.jpg)

New bulkhead and floor has been completed. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/13/1e07975152da83921d11d200cdefaf64.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/13/265f3e70b384ebbd7d997a05352e4b36.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/13/0e02302553390c948abc9a13dbb1292e.jpg)

Good to see a prof job,will this be stock or modified or a bit of both,great pics BTW.

Where are you guys that is absolutely fantastic work guys I wish my skills were even close to what I see there.
Keep up with the photos please.

Regards
Neil H

Yeah ,Nice ad.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/14/1b9a1d63a22defd8428acedc66e2ed8a.jpg)

 fink.
its gonna be pretty stock but we are a hotrod shop after all so we cant help ourselves modifying stuff if the customer allows it.

firekraka,
we are located just south of sydney near helensburgh at darkes forest.thanks mate i will try to keep the photos comin

i rarely take photos at work, but cause ive got an fc i thought i better show you guys this stuff.its hard to get good pics like you would at home cause you are always busting your arse to get stuff done cause the customer is paying and you all know it takes way longer than ya think .no time for photos .......gotta get it done

hsv 001
this aint an ad
i just work there and know how good it is to see build pics of any car,
hope people enjoy it

Good Job Waynos
Keep the photos coming. Nothing wrong with that!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/cee6d3c71ca0ec9541efa3ff5ea75e11.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/18/90e1f89b6ee46702cafb8c3995b0a31c.jpg)

Nice work buddy,i'm assuming it's tig welded,good news now that Bunnings has oxy etc now,hey!

Here's the left hand side(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/19/0102d182ece314a22490a2305aa348e4.jpg)
Fink,those bottles at bunnings are really expensive.they run out real quick.we have a place called gasweld in nsw. You buy. An E. Size bottle and they fill it when ya run out with no rental.there must be somewhere in Vic that does the same.

Glen's doin an awesome job repairing the Swiss cheese on the subframe(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/19/3cb43f99db6400324baa51057fc2fa77.jpg)
Everyone loves sparks and welding pics right?

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/19/83f4597b991b14b7a86cff8373eee275.jpg)

Looking good and appreciate the updates. When welding on the sub frame, do you need to do anything to prevent possible heat distortion / twisting?
Cheers, John

glen is doing small patches ,one at a time so no need to worry about bracing it to prevent twisting.
if you were cutting and rebuilding the alot at once  i would weld or bolt some bracing to the mounting points and keep it on flat ground as i welded and try to weld things opposing each other so it pulls equally,
hope that makes sense

Sure does. Thanks.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/20/47a9d16559028bb0ba4cd9ec31dab45b.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/20/a23d5c5589ec70cd9a6adf9243fd9bbb.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/20/7873f9e1321eed5fd8ab650109b5e7f9.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/cbf2f87b3e2986f522db06a37254eaac.jpg)
This patch had a slight chance of twisting,so a brace was used,but considering it was tig welded and also spot welded, there would be minimal heat transfer,thus no real distortion of the subframe anyway

Some inexperienced welders can go to extreme lengths to brace everything, but do not know the effects of the heat they are putting into the piece,and it will warp and move a whole lot more than someone that knows what they are doin with minimal bracing in the right places, where they know it will pull or distort

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/6241457eead14220377fc6f87bb558a1.jpg)
Ready for paint

Nice work. Where the patch is going on the rh inner arm - are those two bits of tube in the bolt holes to help prevent twist? 
Cheers, John

John, these are crush tubes. They were their originally in the subframe and stop the section distorting when the bolts are tightened.
I have to disagree with KFV888, a good skilled welder will do a lot better job with much less distortion than an amateur.

Ken

there is no need to work the subframe except cleaning the welds up.also no filler is needed

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/247fc71c2ef9c4009516306202cb1425.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/d0d317a4dcc4ab2184f451da548fc932.jpg)
pulling the swage line out to get a nice flow in the rear quarters
a slide hammer is also used

so do you oxy or mig weld panels?

we tig panels cause less heat goes into it meaning less work needed.
we still oxy, but usually only if the metal isnt clean
 or someones already using the tig  haha

If you go back to pic on reply28 page 2,that lower qtr is welded in one go,stoping and starting creates distortion,wheras this way it's minimal! 8)

Many years ago I drove a little LC Torana 2 door as my work car and over about 3 years I wrote it off 4 times and every time a neighbour [old school panel man ] would straighten it for me . One time replacing from the door pillar to the boot lid and I sat gob smacked at the way he used the heat of the oxy to shape and move the steel and how he could predict how the steel would move . I guess a lot of what we learned no longer is relevant today . Getting old I guess . Haydn

Great job on the FC Waynos

TIG all the way!

Cheers
Ed

My boss Stuart is by far one of the best metalmen around.to see him move metal is just so amazing.he will tig a doorskin  or something,planish it,dress it up.no filler required.he has oxy welded all his life too,but obviously a better outcome from tig or he wouldn't use it.

Sorry but I just thought some fe and fc guys would like to see some cool build pics.I didn't intend this thread to be an ad for my work or have a slanging match over the use of preferred techniques etc.

So to get back on track, here are some pics of one of the rear tray side panels Stuart and Glen made today
I kept telling them to make two of everything  for my ute,but they kept laughing, thinking I was joking........
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/4ab20f4e204a2894952f77ef19ab62ca.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/6a79d63e27c98a568e36f2a9412fc3c4.jpg)

Keep it coming. If it gets to the point where you can't mention where work is being done it's a sad day. I don't live far away from you so might need your services one day. It's handy to know who does what and where. Regards to all, Martyn

Awesome work! Keep the pics coming, the more the better.

Cheers
JB

Agrees with crump and JB - keep the pics coming please.  Very informative, very useful.

 Yeah keep the pictures coming, i too have grown tired of the negativity  :o

Keep the thread going mate. Good pics, and inspiring work. 2000+ views so far.
Cheers
Dan

Great work, mate. I haven't had a chance to use tig yet, but I believe oxy is used over mig for thin panels because it can be planished afterwards. Mig can fracture if worked. Can tig be planished, or do you find it doesn't need it because there's no distortion and it just needs a grind and body file?
Thanks, John

Don't stop now!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/825e3aaf7389341554a508a941b0b23e.jpg)

We don't often work on FC Holdens and seeming as Waynos owns one, he thought he would post some pics for all of you FE/FC enthusiasts. As a team, we hope that the pics and sharing of knowledge will help some person building a car at home in some way.


I have a few pics in my phone that I thought might give Wayno's thread a bit more content - I will try not to repeat stuff.


After the rear floor graft from the panel van the rear of the ute needed to be addressed. This is where I started


(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4872_zps6wgmwdtz.jpg) ($2)


I cut the panels off that bookend the spare wheel door under the tailgate and they were crud


 
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4862_zpswlzzze2z.jpg) ($2)


 
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4863_zps2upjberl.jpg) ($2)


First job was to rebuild the inner sheet metal - layer by layer 


(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4874_zpsof6zyq5a.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4879_zpsiyapuor8.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4873_zpsjvxlnqzr.jpg) ($2)

The outer panels that were cut off were fairly rusty and had to be remade

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4862_zpswlzzze2z.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4863_zps2upjberl.jpg) ($2)

The inners were coated in super etch and the outer panels were welded back in. The spare wheel door was mocked up to ensure good panel gaps / fit of the new pieces

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4883_zpsov6q4i2l.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4884_zpsv87adaej.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4887_zpsnu9mi6ff.jpg) ($2)

The spare wheel door needed some repairs to the lower edge due to rust and also the client requested that a stainless hinge be fitted. I got the repairs ready and Waynos TIG welded the new piece in. The stainless hinge and reinforcement pieces for the door were spot welded.

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4902_zpswxhcygsi.jpg) ($2)

This pic of the TIG weld and small HAZ

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4901_zpskysftl3t.jpg) ($2)

On the rear of the quarter panels there are some metal strips that hold a splash gasket between the quarter and the bumper bar. This is the good side before it was tidied up

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4888_zpst0i5vctz.jpg) ($2)

The passenger side needed replacing and would be fiddly  ::). The quarter needed some attention before the new piece was fitted

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4889_zpszybkcz6n.jpg) ($2)

A simple 90 degree fold was made and the angle was shaped to match he quarter in the shrinker/stretcher

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4890_zps6ajfe9qk.jpg) ($2)

Made oversize to be cut down

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4891_zps1th8usvo.jpg) ($2)

The edge was tipped over and spot welded to the quarter panel for another lifetime of duty

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4900_zpsnbyf2v8v.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4899_zpsasoaydzf.jpg) ($2)

The front subframe needed some attention due to rust

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4905_zpsg1nrebe8.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4907_zpsnl67rrmv.jpg) ($2)

Replacement parts needed to be fabricated

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4908_zpsexcvra5d.jpg) ($2)

There is a lot going on in this part that insists on accuracy ie bumper bar mounts, sway bar mounts etc

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4910_zpszktwnjuq.jpg) ($2)

It can be hard to assess what is what on 50 year old cars due to rust  :o

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4909_zpsaqlasy9y.jpg) ($2)

One of the subframes' lower legs needed some attention also due to rust

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4920_zpscml7rqis.jpg) ($2)

This is the crush tube piece that I have cut out for the repair - this is a structural area remember. I am sure there are lots of cars out there getting around with these sort of rust issues

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4921_zpssby8qcb9.jpg) ($2)

New parts were fabricated to repair the area - the crush tubes have been discussed elsewhere

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4923_zpsbaqvncm2.jpg) ($2)

There was still rust in some sheet metal situated below the radiator

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4916_zpsdiaakwjw.jpg) ($2)

A cardboard template was made

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4917_zpsbclah9vs.jpg) ($2)

A panel was fabricated and shaped to fit

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4918_zpsqeoyizw8.jpg) ($2)

Always a crap photo but this shows the insides of this repair getting a squirt of super etch to minimise future issues

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4919_zps101zatjm.jpg) ($2)

Another piece was made that had some bead detail. The OEM 'nutserts' were reused and spot welded to the new panel repair

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4926_zps7qabmxkx.jpg) ($2)

And all fizzed in

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4927_zpsjoyhed0c.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4927_zpsjoyhed0c.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4929_zpsuac7l9bm.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Holden%20FC%20Ute/IMG_4932_zpsta5rdm3x.jpg) ($2)

These pics don't show the work to the subframe after these repairs were made. Lots of small dents were fixed

Great stuff guys, it is great to see how much is being done and the quality of the work is fantastic. Keep the photos coming and don't worry about some of the negative comments, as you can see, most of us DO enjoy what is being done and look forward to seeing the progress.
Regards,
Jim

I totally agree. It is great to see the skill involved in close up detail. I for one fully appreciate the time and effort being put into this build.

If I were the owner I would be very happy to see these progress pictures.

Keep up the good work and please continue the pics through to the finish.

Cheers Stewy   8)

That's serious stuff in those shots. I'd hate to think how long it would take me to fabricate some of the pieces, and how many attempts I'd need before it was good enough.
Thanks for sharing the approach to each repair & the end result.

Welcome aboard, Turns. That's some bloody impressive work. Thanks for sharing it.

To everyone else: the comments that were the source of some angst have been removed. Let's hear no more about it.

Yes  please keep this thread going with all the Photos, helps with motivation to finish mine, great work
Gordon

Great body work, I have the Seals for the body to bumper if you required.
Cheers
John

You guys should seriously consider making some of these rust repair panel for sale I would definetly be interested in the inner tray panels

Please keep the photos coming as the other guys have said.
Regards
Neil H

...waynos  ..  i tip my hat to your outstanding work...i own the 5th oldest "surviving" Holden (48-215 FX body number 149) which is totally knackered, and up until now thought that she would've been unrepairable...

...now i can see by your skills.. that's just not the case.  I may have to look you up for advice and a possible appraisal of her....thanks for the great thread....cheers from Phil

I can't take credit for any of the work.We are a team and I am just lucky enough to be working with some highly skilled hotrodders, that really love what they do, I'm just  the apprentice really,learning everyday, trying to be a better car builder.

That's some remarkable work guys. Was there ever a point where you considered just buying a better subframe?  Just curious, I like a challenge myself.

It was good to meet Gary (Zulu) today. He cruised down to our workshop in this nice Panelvan.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/29/213c1c5b1f1af3465be4662c357a209c.jpg)
Wish I wasn't so busy.would have liked to have chatted more.

the one being repaired in the pics,
was a better subframe that was sourced by the owner,
can you imagine how bad the original was?

thanks i will tell steve the owner

It was great to meet you too Waynos and the rest of the Metal Whisperers team, Stuart & Turns

After doing a mini grand tour with Stuart I was amazed to see some of the other projects in the works and the extent of the repairs being undertaken

Certainly an eye popper and well worth the visit

Regards, Gary

what Neil said.
Love the photos
Nick

As a new member here, I should introduce myself as Stuart, and part of the team responsible for the restoration of the FC Ute being discussed in this thread.
I don't own an FE or FC, nor do I have any allegiance to any specific make...I just like interesting old cars.
My background was in collision repair and always had an acute interest in shaping metal.

The owner of the Ute (Steve) recently delivered the doors and tailgate down to the workshop for repairs, Waynos has been working with the doors to align/adjust fit and refine door gaps, then lower door skins were wheeled and edges tipped, and they are a work in progress...we are waiting for the door frames to be abrasive blasted and epoxy primed. Meanwhile the tailgate was assessed and we decided to re-work the frame by replacing the inner face with new metal that we worked in the Pullmax and Turns is making a jig to assist in alignment when we weld the old to the new...An outer skin has been wheeled, the top margin rolled over and radiused, and the edges tipped to provide parallel gaps when fitted to the frame.


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-02%2012.46.43_zpshpb1bqge.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-02%2013.10.56_zpszwravjvj.jpg) ($2)



(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-02%2014.45.39_zpsxrb4hhsj.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-02%2017.22.46_zpskfl2sy8m.jpg) ($2)

It's great to see that there is still this level of craftsmanship out there, and also pleasing to know that there are people out there willing to spend the money to achieve this quality of restoration.

The inner tailgate frame was rusted and beat up, it is unlikely we would find something better so the decision was made to fabricate a replacement panel for the damaged lining and TIG weld it into the remaining margins...A complete inner frame could be shaped, however this way results in an effective solution in a shorter time...read less cost.


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-04%2015.28.03_zps3eqodayv.jpg) ($2)

i've been doing some jedi mind tricks at work recently.......
somehow ive managed to coax stuart and turns into loving fcs
they both have thankfully joined this forum,
so now you will get to see some really awesome build pics,
instead of my crappy phone pics i take now and again.
grab some popcorn,
sit back,and enjoy

I want one of those inner skins  ;D

I second collecta I really need one of those come on guys you can't tease us like this and not offer up something

Regards
Neil H

I intended to post up more photos last night of the tailgate...for some reason we had no connection, mate said the state of origin footy had something to do with no data?


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/10953967_10153085476547640_2544083757558766224_n_zpsapgbimkc.jpg) ($2)


I will get something up when I get a moment...sorry for teasing Neil

Got some more Mileage on the tailgate, coated all the inner pieces with weld-through primer to prevent future rust, fitted and spot-welded all the doubler plates and internal bracing into the frame, welded the replacement inner face into the shell and crimped on the outer skin we had previously wheeled up then trial fitted it to the Ute back with hinges attached to confirm correct fit...


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-08%2009.03.45_zpsvsnvpuly.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-08%2016.32.49_zpsh2hrfxqs.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-08%2017.15.13_zpsj0fgjhmn.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-08%2016.57.32_zpsikztltzx.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-08%2016.58.03_zpsnc3iczod.jpg) ($2)

Great job guys!

The lower door frames had some rust repair sections shaped and welded in


 (http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-13%2016.36.07_zpssynahwzt.jpg) ($2)



Wayno has prepared lower door skins, first wheeling the correct shape in, then tipping the edges, which is a critical step to maintain the correct door gaps after installation.
After trial fitting, the skins are tack welded, the tacks planished to restore the correct shape...then TIG welded to complete the join.


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-14%2012.14.16_zpsqwocdclh.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-14%2012.09.58_zpsbctczhbn.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-14%2015.42.56_zpsxgfq62sn.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-14%2016.44.06-1_zpsyu6nicfa.jpg) ($2)

Threads like these showing skill in detail are great, thanks for sharing.

Work and skills on display here are almost enough to make a garage hack like me lose faith in my own abilities!  Nice work, keep the pics coming.

dont lose faith just keep refining those abilities.we  are here to inspire you mate

Thanks Waynos, I think I'll need it. Did a welding course today at a local Men's shed, made me feel a bit more confident!

good on ya .pm me if ya need any advice mate

 
We got underbody sealer sprayed under the finished floor areas, and coated with primer.

 
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-15%2011.59.03_zps8bgmzomr.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-15%2011.58.02_zpslf5sllbu.jpg) ($2)

lonestar 

         can l ask the process you went through on the under floor   

         you started  with bare metal  after doing the repairs
         you said sealer  was it two pack ?
         then primer what type ?
         what are you finishing it with  ?


             thanks greg 
                                                       

         

Thanks for the pic's. Is that sealer an off the shelf item that you just stick on the end of an air gun?
Cheers, John

The process starts with abrasive blasting the floor then coating the areas with epoxy etch primer.

After the etch has set up, brush-on seam sealer is applied to the areas where weld seams or factory overlap joints exist...Sikaflex sealer is also used where it is appropriate to work along a seam with a caulking gun, then smoothing with your finger.

After the sealer has set, the whole area is masked, re-coated with etch primer and after flash time, it is sprayed with the splatter schutz (see photos).

Because the ambient temperature is below 15c, it was left for 2 days before it was re-coated with primer, ready for re-masking for 2K color.


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-17%2008.27.09_zps4wgelrqf.jpg) ($2)


Above image is as it appears just before masking is removed...there is a Ton of work on the rest of the vehicle to be done before it is to be painted, if there is any collateral damage here, it will be detailed and re-primed as necessary.


The Ute has been partly disconnected from the rotisserie to allow the front subframe to be trial fitted and front sheet-metal mounted to it for gap checking and adjustment before preparation for prime/paint


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-07-17%2015.00.53_zpsfg09vndf.jpg) ($2)


.

There is a 2 Pak splatter called Raptor (TM) that I also use where abrasion resistance is required, it can also be painted with color directly over the product, however it ain't cheap

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/18/09697645b27c34238cf9cc70bf5efc7b.jpg)
spent today getting bonnet ,door and guard gaps perfect

Hey guys has there been anymore progress on the FC ute.

Regards
Neil H

Steve's FC Ute has been retrieved from the paint shop where the inside edges have been painted original body color, we will re-fit the front subframe, hang exterior panels and re-gap and make it a roller so it can be returned to the paint shop for final color on the exterior



(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-09-22%2016.54.43_zps77xlqxyh.jpg) ($2)

The admirers can tell it's a serious build now ....
Looking good.

Gary has an impressive collection of FC commercial vehicles, this particular example began as a panel van that has had Station Wagon rear 1/4 windows cut into the upper side panels...these were to be removed and the van restored to a windowless van, before it was to be re-painted.

Replacement side panels were provided by the owner, however they were severely rusted


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-07-11%2010.49.25_zpstrvcctgn.jpg) ($2)


The decision was made to reproduce side panels...there was a lot of bullets to be dodged before the replacement panels were ready to be installed


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-01%2011.34.01_zpszbkymkgd.jpg) ($2)





(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-03%2012.56.19_zps26zds4ft.jpg) ($2)








There were rust issues between panels that was cleaned up as part of the process


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-02%2014.18.32_zps5hgbglj9.jpg) ($2)


The upper edge of the lower panel was re-aligned to meet the upper replacement panel, here a weld-on pull plate lifts the car clear of the floor to achieve alignment

(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-04%2011.46.36_zpsc8qazdln.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-08%2012.30.04_zpssget4jsk.jpg) ($2)


 The upper panel was positioned and TIG welded in


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-10%2015.22.42_zpsjw4msz5c.jpg) ($2)


(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Forum%20Images-4/2015-09-10%2015.45.48_zps9jtgp9qo.jpg) ($2)

Amazing work and what can be achieved!

I often tell my wife, if we ever won lotto & we could retire, I would love to work free with a business doing this type of work, so I could learn the correct skills to present such great results.

Cheers
Marc

Here are a few more images relevant to the last posts, Photobucket has been difficult to negotiate lately...





(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-09-19%2011.03.08_zpsbglzdwnr.jpg) ($2)



(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-09-16%2015.45.27_zps3sjoncil.jpg) ($2)



Steve's FC Ute has been assembled to the point that it can now be wet rubbed and the final color can be applied, the loose panels will be hung and painted inside and out before re-fitting back onto the shell



(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/lonestar428/Workshop-01/2015-09-23%2014.28.53_zpscfbv3syi.jpg) ($2)

I thought I would post some pics of the FC Ute in paint

 (http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Workshop%201/IMG_5300_zpsaf3eajg5.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Workshop%201/IMG_5301_zpseqf1uunp.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Workshop%201/IMG_5298_zpsl5t50iy0.jpg) ($2)

(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/glenn85/Workshop%201/IMG_5297_zpsysmpu3nd.jpg) ($2)

Cheers Turns

looks great, classic ute colour.