FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Hi all,
Im about to start the restoration of an ex pmg van that ive had in storage for a long time, i'd like to return it to 'as new, pmg spec' but im having difficulty find much info on the fc vans. Mine has the 333 on the id plate which according to don loffler indicates no lh door?... Ive searched high and low for a pic of one to show the sign writing, but no luck. I read on a very old post on here that it may have only had a bucket seat also?

Any information would be helpful, cheers.

Talk to zulu he will no
regards fatboy

Hi Gman, Holdens black book decodes 333 as a Production option
This option was 333  Tailgate window.

Cheers Stewy   8)

Thanks for the replies guys

Here is the info on the id plate

FC2104S10-7186-A
S13-769
253-9751
333

Please note this info came off a crappy photo i took a while ago, sorry if there are mistakes, hope it helps.

Yes there are a few unknown numbers in your description.
What we do know is an FC Panel Van the 7186th manufactured in Adelaide.
Trim code 769 identifies as Royal Mail Van
253 is Duco Lacquer  9751 is Post Office Red.
333 is Tailgate window option.
The chassis number and the original engine number would date when assembled.

I am sure there will be some interest from forum members and we like pictures.

Welcome to the forum and ask any questions don't forget there are no wrong questions. (only wrong answers)  :)

Good luck with the resto I will be watching with interest.


Cheers Stewy   8)

I am not sure who posted this, maybe Les Hewitt?

Anyway, it is titled Graeme Thorne, so the image may have been related to that case

It appears to be an FE PMG Van possibly, bit hard to tell

Interesting that it appears to be still in service at the time of EK, it seems fleet cars stayed in service longer back then, looks like NSW   


(http://s29.postimg.org/9kl96ueur/PMG_Graeme_Thorne1960_Pic4.jpg) ($2)

Here is a PMG FC ute

unfortunately neither of these images shows the passenger side where the half door or modified door was supposed to be, although you can make out the passenger flipper window

 
(http://s23.postimg.org/4enudc72v/PMG_FC_UTE.jpg) ($2)

As Stewy says, welcome aboard and bring on the pics

Best I can do is an FJ


(http://s17.postimg.org/dxybgrd8b/fj_postalvan.jpg) ($2)

Cheers Stewy   8)

G'day Gman,

Have you tried contacting Australia Post? I know it sounds funny, but sometimes you catch the right person in head office and it can be very useful. Bootlegger recently completed an EH panelvan that was originally an SCC electricity service van. He contacted SCC (now Ausgrid) and "got the right person" - heaps of archival photos, and even the loan of some genuine service gear. Sounds like they were as excited as he was for the restoration.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks for all the speedy replies, I think everyone can see the drama im having trying to find a photo of an original one :(
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/24-1-2014005_zps029d3a7b.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/24-1-2014004_zpse6aa112d.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/24-1-2014002_zps5fe79070.jpg)
here's the best of the photos I have at the moment, when it comes out of storage over christmas i'll post some more

My FC reads  FC 2104-2849-A   TRIM 351-655  PAINT No 256-2031 RPO 333  .Cheers Haydn

so according to the photo zulu has posted the tail light and head light rims are painted? would i assume grill also.
I have tried many time to get info from aust. post - they don't care (can't find the right person?)

cheers.

How cool. Pics of inside cargo area pls, very interesting. When the taxi is finished, I would love to get together with all the themed cars is Vic at the one place.

There are some Telstra (PMG) museums around the country. Some are run by volunteers & ex-PMG employees would be more passionate about the history.
They could have the right photos.
Google search on PMG Museums brings up a few.

I saw this van at Ballarat swap in 1998, I guess this is where you bought it. Trim code is S8-769. The S8 designates PMG build, the 769 represents Cordon Brown interior which was the same colour as used on most of the services vehicles. For instance, the army sedan I built has the same colour interior.
I have the photo you need, it shows passenger side of an FC van with no door and bucket seat etc etc.
Start a thread on the FEFC forum and I can post the picture. I am hopeless with tap talk.
Ken


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ok found the spot on the forum so disregard forum comment (not flash at tapatalk or iPad Either but trying)
GMan, to answer the question about the grille, no, it would have been chrome. The painted grille was discontinued 6th August 1958. All FC vans and Utes had painted taillight and headlight rims through the whole production. However, dealerships would often dress up Utes and vans with chrome parts to sell them. So stories of Utes that according to long time owners always had the chrome rims can be true.
Ken


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here is the picture
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/06/489bebca35e631266bfe702a0e05217d.jpg)
You can see the weather deflection panel that replaces the door quite well

Ken


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wow, that answers a lot of questions, that photo is invaluable!!! :D

But it also raises some other questions...

Thats the second type of sign writing ive seen, so what do i use?
How do i work out if mine is supposed to have a lh door or not? The lh door you can see in the photos could be original but could also have been painted...

As far as the story of this van goes, i was given it by a neighbour in about 2007, it had changed hands a couple of times prior to my neighbour getting it with people starting floor rust repairs, the story i have been told by a couple of different people is the it was rescued from the the ballan tip in the late 1990's, thats a great tip on it being spotted at ballarat, cheers.

Ps. Are the rims black?

Were there 2 versions?
Mail vans & PMG service vans.

Is that a pull-to handle on the rh door? Im sure i read in don lofflers book that if it had no lh door that the rh door was disabled?...

Ken, this might not be the one you saw if you mean  the one that Jonno talked about from November 2005.
The build # from that one was FC2104-S10-7218-A
Gman's build # is FC2104-S10-7186-A

Cheers Stewy   8)   (apprentice nit picker)  :)

There are two versions as DJ says. The mail van is the one with the door removed. If the FC codes follow the FJ system (may or may not) then the ACC code should be 314 for a mail van. Service vans were simpler and this is most likely what you have. The ACC code on yours is just 333, whereas I have other PMG van details which have more codes after the 333. I would think the service van has the "PMG" on the door.
I have read Don's book and it is not as simple as transferring details for FJ across to FC as the coding and requirements changed.
The picture is fantastic because it is a period picture. There is a door pull handle on the drivers door so it must have opened. Wheels do look like they are black (this lines up with FJ specification).
Hope this is making sense.

Ken

No mistake Stewy, body number 7218 is the one from Bendigo wrecking yard. Before the yard was cleaned out this van was a total wreck, both rust wise and stripped for parts.
I have a note in my book alongside the details of Gman's van where I saw it and when.
No coincidence about the closeness of numbers though.
GMH must have run them as a batch. I have the following bodies recorded
7186. Ballarat swap
7187. ID plate from the Internet
7215. Wrecked by Slim (this number supplied by Slim)
7218. Bendigo wreck
I would suggest that these were all run together as a batch of at least 32 vans.
Ken

Fantastic info Ken.  :)
When are you going to write the book?
You cant let Don Loffler have all the fun.
All of this info can be lost to history far too easily and needs to be documented for those FE/FC lovers that are yet to be born.  :)

Cheers Stewy   8)

Thanks for your contribution Ken....always fascinating.

Here's another pic of a PMG van from the left side.
Not very big, but you can make out the different signwriting and the left door.
(http://s18.postimg.org/psb0uryvp/pmg_van.jpg) ($2)
Regards
Alex

Could someone define for me what a 'Service van' is, did it travel around and repair postal vehicles? or did it carry mail from depot to depot?

PMG was also the Telephone company in those days. The gear carried around was used by the technicians to install & service phones and work in the exchanges, lines etc.

Hey Gman it also looks like the fuel cap is also painted in Kens pic
I have the next number to yours (plate only)


Ken

FC2104S10-7187-A with the 333 option is a plate in my shed

It came from a burnt out wreck in the south west of WA

However it gives more ammo for the limited batch run

Cheers Gary
 

I have the van home and have given it a thorough clean inside and out (will post photos soon) washed all the moss off and vacumed out all the floor pans, i mean rust ;D it doesn't seem to have any holes where a wind deflector would have been on the lh a pillar so i am thinking that the lh door may be original.

I have some questions though... The id plate seems to have the original rivets but isn't painted? What colour is the engine bay supposed to be (including firewall) a mates ute that is unrestored is black, this seems it could have been red?

Anyone have any ideas as to what make of tyres would have been fitted to these?

P.s the lh quarter window has a rego sticker on it from circa 1960 thats in rreeaallllyyy bad shape, we have been playing with a high tec digital camera to try to decifier the old rego number!!! Have got half of the info off the label already!

Some ID plates are painted, others are not. General rule (there are exceptions) Melbourne and Adelaide bodies have painted plates whilst Sydney plates are unpainted. I had a look through my collection of body plates (about 60) and found a couple of unpainted Melbourne plates, one unpainted Adelaide plate and a painted Sydney plate. Without a detailed analysis I would guess the factories changed processes during the years of production to either putting the plate on or off before painting the firewall. Later models always had unpainted plates so this seems to be the general trend or direction.
Same with firewall colour. General rule (there are exceptions) 1956 cars had body colour firewall and black inner skirts. Somewhere in 1957 this chaged to body coloured firewall and body coloured skirts and this continued into 1958. In 1959 a universal change to black firewall and skirts occurred and this remained for a long while through FB and onwards. Once again some factories didn't follow these patterns, now we are talking about five assembly plants painting car engine bays rather than just three factories producing bodies, so lots of variations can occur.
Most tyres fitted at the factory were Olympic Air ride or Dunlop B7 (yes exceptions did occur)
You will be lucky if you can get the label info as this will give you engine number and rego date as well

Ken

(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/8-01-2015166_zps21158f24.jpg)
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Hey GMan looks like a good start and with a story as well got to love that I have a tailgate emblem that I got from an old tailgate when I was looking for one for my ek ute if you are interested.

Regards
Neil H

yes Neil, very interested, thankyou, could you pm me with details please.

While we are talking about parts, I'm looking for a top tailgate complete with all hardware (hinges, glass, brackets, etc..)

GMan;
I will pm you re the tailgate emblem and if the fb ek upper is the same for the fc their is a guy over here that has a bonnet and an upper and he is only asking 100 ono for both I am happy to have a look for you if they are the same I know you dont need the bonnet (is FB/EK) but at that price it may be worth picking up has the glass as well.

Regards
Neil H

Thanks Neil, but the FB EK top tail gate is very different :'( the FC bottom tailgate must be opened first and FB EK is vise-versa.

I just noticed that I didn't mention anything about the photo of the mirror in the rear (see above a couple of posts) does anyone have any thoughts on that? the brackets seem to be a little rough (home made) but not sure....

G'day Gman,

This is on Ebay at the moment.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-UPPER-TAIGATE-FE-FC-S-WAG-P-VAN-/321633566276?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae2dabe44 ($2)

Cheers,
Graeme

 Hi Gman, fb ek wagon are the same upper tailgates as fe fc wagon and van. Fb ek van tailgate upper are totally different. Fb ek lower wagon tailgates fit also just different pressing for the centre badge.
cheers
Scott

gman
         theres a bloke in bacchus marsh  he's got  a fc wagon  drives it around town
         l recon if you ask him nicely  he may have a  top tailgate, might even have some glass
         and if your really cashed up he might even have a newly chromed tailgate badge

           thanks    me
         

Are you talking about the bloke who I ran over in the Torana, gmhwagon? :)

If so, would you consider a couple of beers for delivery (and to check out the car) I promise not to drive anything when you come...

gman
          yes thats him ,physically recovered but mentally still shaken
           
          will catchup soon   am looking at putting trimatic in the wagon
         
           keep an eye out for me

            greg

I can't make sense of the mirror. It's on the drivers side at the very back yes?
I can't imagine what you could see in it even if you could see it from the drivers seat?
Does it fold out somehow?
Maybe if the van was decked out with a mattress and used as home for someone the mirror may have been for a more domestic use.

Do you have the fuel tank?  If so does it have a coiled spring inside the neck?
Ken

Hello Ken, no the mirror doesn't fold out, it is at the back on the rhs, I don't have a fuel tank at all ( so if someone has one they would part with... ) and no neck either, why do you ask?

Cheers.

P.s hey Greg, i've got a couple of trimatics and assoctiated parts, we need to catch up soon, you around on the week end?

Just a thought , on page one ,Ken's picture shows a van with the passenger front door removed and if this was originally like that ,then if you were unloading from the rear you could use the mirror to check no one gets in the front and drives off . Never seen this sort of mirror placement even in a panel van [on the roof ,yes]. Haydn

These were usually fitted to PMG or post vehicles. The spring is an anti theft device (a siphoning tube cannot be put into the tank) the chain was edged under the spring and attached to the petrol cap so that the cap would not get lost.  These came from an FE PMG van which was rusted out.
 
(http://s12.postimg.org/9lm1wcgux/image.jpg) ($2)

Ken

Wow, Ken those are a fantastic find, thankyou for sharing, is there any certainty that these where fitted by gmh for pmg? Are there any rpo's specific to pmg? Don't suppose you'd part with them Ken? :)

gman
        lvd got an old inner spring mattress here me and the misses have worn out
        maybe you could take a spring out of that   ;D ;D

         

Absolutely GMH
The spring is RPO 415 and the chain for the cap is RPO 297. Unfortunately the cap was missing!!!!
So I don't know exactly how the chain was attached to the cap. I presume a single self tapper into the centre section near the vent hole.

RPO stamping seems a little inconsistent.
The PMG van in the Bendigo wrecking yard had these RPO's stamped on the ID plate, but yours doesn't. This does not mean that they were not on your van. That's why I was keen to know whether the tank was there.
For example your van has door pull handles and they are RPO 292. The RPO is not on the ID plate but the handles are fitted.  It seems GMH sometimes stamped the plate with the RPO and other times didn't. The Bendigo van has door pull handles and has the RPO on the ID plate as well.

It's all part of my research (affliction ) lol
These parts are for sale. I've been wating for someone who might use them rather than just look at them as I have done for the time I have had them.


Ken

Why haven't you written a book yet Ken? That info is amazing, could you please pm me with payment details, etc.. Is there or have you a list of rpo's relevent to this van?

Greg, if the springs are worn out, what good are they to me.... :D

I have a filler neck with anti-theft strainer chain and cap from an early 50's Hillman that I kept as a donor piece and the chain seems to be the folded link type common to cabinet making and sink plugs in the day[I think you can still get it at hardware] . The links are small enough that this one is held onto the cap with a single pop rivet .Haydn 

Yes, this is the same, folded over brass links to form a chain.
Back to RPO codes,
The other code on the Bendigo PMG van is 293 which is for Ryco oil filter
Those 4 codes would be typical of what would have been on your van, but so few exist that it is hard to be definitive.
Here is a pic of the Bendigo van (it got worse as the years went by)
You can see the red colour on the upper tailgate after the glass was removed.

(http://s29.postimg.org/ycmdyiu8z/image.jpg) ($2)

Ken
I can't figure out why it's upside down, when I click on it it goes the right way up!

I'll add some text to these photo's tonight at home
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/12-01-2015008_zps947bb5d8.jpg)
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(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/12-01-2015006_zpsec260491.jpg)

So I spent some time on the van yesterday, got all the hang on panels off ready for the blaster, got the front floors fitted and ready to weld, removed the extreme rats nest from above the roof lining (have a good look at the underside of the lining and see what turned out to be about a quarter of the ancient rat shit that was up there!) and did battle and won with the tail gate bolts >:(

I have been pondering about that mirror, the whole inside of the van has been painted purple with a brush at some stage, at first glance there was no red paint visable, so I was assuming that it had in fact been added by someone who was using it for vanity while possibly living in the van. But as the new photos show there is infact red paint back there, the screws seem period correct, the bracket has many 'adjustment' holes in it (I don't think anyone who knocked this up for vanity would bother with that) but the bracket still seems, well, a bit rough and unfinished on the ends... Its got me buggered why its there.

If anyone has any ideas, please share them.

I'm tending to agree with you. The multi adjustment points don't line up with a quick home made bracket.

Ken

The van probably carried some hefty telephone exchange gear at times. Some PMG depots were well enough equipped to make their own mods & they had the PMG paint too. My guess is that the mirror has something to do with backing up to a loading dock, although it doesn't look to have enough free movement to use from the driver position. Does it move enough to use with the regular cab mirror?  i.e. back up using both mirrors instead of turning to look out the rear.

Thanks DJ,
Not sure if they had outside mirrors, the mirror in the rear does move through a large movement arc, I do understand your theory but the fact that its behind the driver is still odd, any angle that you look at the mirror from the drivers seat shows inside the rear of the van only...

It's an interesting fixture. I knew some PMG techs & I've run into some of them at times over the years. I'll be sure to ask about this whenever I see anyone again from that vintage.

Hi all, have some more questions -

What colour rims?, black?

Dash colour? Top, face and guage surround.

QC marks? location and colour

Springs and shock colours?

Im thinking that the engine bay on this one was black?...

any thoughts or ideas welcomed

Rims, could be your choice I think, in one of the photos of the ute, the rims are red. Black in all the other photos.
The dash face and instrument cluster would be red.
The top of the dash is Cinder Grey. A dark grey colour.
QC marks are very inconsistent. Have a chat to Graeme Pryce (Canberra club) about this. His FC has all QC marks faithfully reproduced. I have never felt it necessary to add these but I appreciate the work.
Shockers are black, springs were most likely oil blacked rather than painted, but black paint is fine.
Black engine bay is also fine but it is chassis black, not gloss. The paint colour engine bays are gloss.

Regards.  Ken

Thanks again Ken, thats great

Another question, assuming that being a government vehicle it wasn't optioned with a radio, what would be fitted behind the speaker grill to hide the wiper linkages from view?

Also i have noticed that there is some writing in wax on the fire wall on the lhs, I seem to remember that was where they wrote the colour the body was to be painted? Mine is a little hard to work out, what should it say?

Cheers

Hi Gman,
There is a fibreboard panel fixed behind the speaker grille painted black so you cant see through if there is no speaker fitted.
The wording on the firewall could be PO red  or something like that since the ID tag says 9751 which is POST OFFICE RED.
My November 57 station sedan was built in Adelaide and has teal and Breton written on the firewall for teal blue roof over Breton blue body.


(http://s7.postimg.org/i2qeck1if/fergus_firewall.jpg) ($2)

Cheers Stewy   8)

Thanks Stewy,

Had a closer look on the weekend and im sure you're on the money with 'PO Red' on the firewall.

More Questions -

Steering column is black?

Kick panels are black also?

Glove box has the plain chrome strip?

Does anyone have any interior pictures that shows any patterns, colour, etc..

Cheers.

Rust be gone.....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/19-01-2014020_zpsdcf751fb.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/19-01-2014021_zps3ee938c3.jpg)
had a big week end on the grinder and drill

Go get 'em Gman - that's great progress cos I know what a prick of job that is......

I only know about PMT sorry. Not PMG.

Steering column black, kick panels brown same colour as seat. Plain stripe on gb lid. I will post interior photos when home.

Ken

So from the info provided, can anyone ball park the build date of the van, going to start looking at heads and blocks for correct date codes ;D

Yes I can, will get to it next week when I get home.

Ken

Anyone know where to get the rubber sleeves/grommets for the tail light wiring harness, also it seems that the rear of this van has never been wired for indicators, I was of the opinion that indicators where optional on fe and standard on fc?

Also looking for the rubber flap things that go behind the rear bumpers, I have seen a post on here about them but cant seem to find them.

Oh yeah, where the inner quarter panels made from steel or board on the vans? (have none to go off) has anyone got the original spec for the floor timbers/boards, including colour?

gman
        look under repo  parts , l think ' Maco ' does them

gman
 there called rear body to bumper seals

   greg

Bought a set a while back. Very impressed. Good gear, price was right and turned up quickly. Martyn

Indicators - standard equipment on all FE and FC specials, optional on all the rest.
Rear harness sleeves N/A. Try cutting down a headlamp harness sleeve. These are available.
Inner panels are board on a van.

Ken

Ok, with just the body number to go by I estimate the chassis number to be about FC - 46000M which gives a build date of about August 1959
If you can find a chassis number this would be helpful

Ken

Thanks again Ken, would the rear tail lights then had clear indicator lenses?

What colour would the board have been and do you know where to get it from?

Cheers.

Will get chassis number in the morning.

Trying not to get too involved in peoples builds this year but can probably help with your van at some stage . I have never had a FE or FC commercial with factory indicators as standard . Up hear in Qld. you can get short sleeve grommets from Clarke Rubber .They are sold as electrical sleeve for clothes iron cords[very similar to the ends of your headlight wires] and slide over the 5 or 7 strand trailer wire and this is what I use for rear lights and I colour code it for trailer plug . Just my idea . Cheers Haydn

Thanks Haydn, I'll try our local clark rubber.

The chassis number is FC46508M

A little closer with the date would be late August, approx 20th to the 30th of August.
A quick check of the parts book confirms that orange indicators were introduced in FC 2104 models at chassis number FC53868M, so your van would have red indicators.
Trim board is a bit of a mystery for PMG vans, it could have been painted red to match the interior or left plain colour. Not sure.

Ken

You really need to write a book Ken, thanks again

By red indicators you mean they flashed the brake lights and the lower lenses are white with blanking plugs fitted? If so, I get to use the pair of mint NOS tail lights I have ;D

Cheers

I have the same clear lens at the bottom with the blank plug behind. The brake/blinker arrangement isn't that good by today's standard. Anyone behind can easily miss seeing your intentions in areas with decent street lights. I think I'll try a better stop lamp (led) & separate orange indicator lamp behind the clear lens. May help avoid a rear ender.

Yep, brake lights flash as indicators

Ken

Spotted something interesting while under the van on the weekend... I wonder what the pimple faced young person at our local branch will say when I ask if they can still rebuild my shocks ;D
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Does anyone know anyone that can/would rebuild telescopic shocks? The van still has original type front and rear, I'd like to keep it that way. Also does anyone know the original colour of the shocks?

Oh, and also had another productive day on the van...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/27-01-2015027_zpse1aa9beb.jpg)

for shits and giggles I rang repco...... they told me they don't do them anymore (since 2005 anyway) but SG Leslie and sons in Heidleberg 94592859 will do them for $275ish a pair.... Wow, shouldn't judge hey :P

Has anybody had any experience with these guys and/or the process, eg: is it worth the bother?

Hey Gman;
Nice progress on the floors you are making great strides
oh and I'm a little concerned with your avatar is that you in a spiderman outfit mate???????? ::) ::) ::) ::)

Regards
Neil H

LOL yeah, thats spidey ;D ;D thats what I look like after 10 jack daniels while working in the shed...

best not leave the shed either if jack makes you dress like that

Have you been talking to my missus DJ?

I think its the rust dust that makes me do it :D

Well, it's a good effort on the floor regardless of what you're sucking on.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys :) it helps with motivation, alot

Anyone on the shocks???

Hey mate. I'm ex truck mechanic and I will be doing my shocks myself. I just grit blasted them. In my opinion the shocks really do not need to be pulled apart to get them working properly unless they are leaking or stuck. The damping rate is up to you and depends on whether you have modified springs etc. With the shock fully extended, drill a hole about an inch from the seam at the thin end (base) and get a measuring cup and drain the oil into the cup by depressing it. May take a few primes. If they have been leaking then you will need to take it apart. If no sign of leak then changing the oil should be enough. If you want to play with the damping rate you just go up from say 10 rated oil to 20. If you want you can tap a thread and put a grub screw in so you can easily try different oil. You buy shock oil on eBay etc. These old shocks are basic. What I have done is gone to a large autoshop, get the missus or friend to go with you and get a new non gas shock out of its packet and then starting from fully depressed (short), extend it as quick as you can, then time how long it takes for it to fully extend on your phone stop watch. Then once you have filled the shock with standard shock oil you just go up a grade in oil til you get the leak down rate time that the shop one had. I just pull it as hard as I can. If you want to be more scientific use a force measurement gauge. It doesn't matter how worn it is inside in my opinion unless it is dry and won't move. This is because the orifice inside the shock is likely to wear at a steady rate so the oil viscocity is compensating if you get me. Go to your local shock place and get old ones of similar vintage and practice on them. Most ppl don't bother cos time is money and they are too cheap to stuff around with. New seals are pretty standard sizes.

Thanks Deano,
it didn't even enter my mind about doing them myself, Might have a go yet... I assume you would just weld the hole up when finished? What do you do if they are leaking? I was told by repco that if they have already been rebuilt then they often machine down the shaft diameter and futher rebuilding is no longer viable, what do you think?

Cheers.

Here's a good video for your purposes. The reason I would encourage you to give it a go is because it really isn't a life or death component if you get it wrong and once you become confident after doing a few if you had doubt you can always put them on a shock tester. Shock Absorber Taken Apart and Explained: http://youtu.be/OSxUoGh_XMk
Sump or go kart grub screw (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/27/723c1ca0bdc8cb271d22d56333c87f5b.jpg)
Depends on the shock how you plug it up. Either weld or grub screw it.

Shock colour is black by the way.

Ken

In case anyone needed proof that tags where painted,
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/3-02-2015036_zpsa78fa99d.jpg)
been forging ahead, ready for rotisserie ;D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/3-02-2015037_zpsfd6ef2c3.jpg)

That is a shock

Like Ripley's "believe it or not"


(http://s11.postimg.org/gh6zei52n/image.jpg) ($2)

Ken

Now that's a knife shock

Now he can strut his stuff.

You guys aren't very phunny.....

 ;D ;D ;D

Anyway, are there different floor plates for different models? The one i've scored doesn't line up with all the bolt holes...

Its always scary rotating for the first time...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/9-02-2015026_zps5af61fe1.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/9-02-2015027_zpsf04c1b22.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/9-02-2015029_zps95b978b2.jpg)
Was getting tired of the van 'malting' rust all over the floor, gave it a really good blast with air to get rid of all the loose stuff, should keep the shed floor a bit cleaner now (except for all the grinding to come :()

Got my shocks back from S G Leslie and sons, WOW they look like new... ;D ;D ;D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/biggvl/12-02-2015020_zps59b639d5.jpg)
Turn around time was super fast, price was great also, about the same as a new set!!
If you want this job done, give these guys a ago, great job

They look good. They do come up great blasted too. Something a lot of people don't think of doing before sending the body off just so they are nice regardless. I really like the original character of your car. Sometimes I think I need an old rusty car ornament. I appreciate a cars survival story as much as when they are completed if you know what I mean.

Hello All,

It's been a long time since posting about the Van, a few things in life changed and work had stopped for a while but it is now full steam ahead!!

All chrome work is done (thanks Greg!) almost all cad/zinc plating is done, gearbox and diff are rebuilt, engine is at machinists (date correct type), generator and starter are rebuilt, front end is done, steering box is ready to build, scored a set of 5 almost NOS olympic airide tyres on original rims. There's heaps more I've forgotten.

I managed to purchase some NOS inner and outer sills which are making the rust repairs MUCH easier, I also found a NOS rear floor pan which helps too. I've been out in the bush harvesting wrecks for parts with my young bloke which we both really enjoy.

Anyhow, heaps of photos to follow (can anyone recommend a photo host?, photo bucket now wants money  :()

Heaps of questions for the gurus to follow.

Gareth.

 Good to hear your at it again , give us a yell if you need anything , looking forward to the pics

     greg (fcwagoon)

Thanks Greg!

(https://i.imgur.com/ffWxHl1l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uKIv2H5l.jpg)

First time in daylight for years


(https://i.imgur.com/ziEhdpol.jpg)

Paint strip and bog removal on roof

(https://i.imgur.com/bnJdXGil.jpg)

Scored a set of correct unbroken front springs

(https://i.imgur.com/HfrpNavl.jpg)

Found out that there's a difference in bump stop holders on late/early model arms so had to swap that out (the RH arm was rusted beyond repair)

(https://i.imgur.com/06ay9xHl.jpg)

Sills be gone!!


(https://i.imgur.com/uuHVYqXl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KMr7g69l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9qIQGKil.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4BObXwml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ykyMNVkl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZPNR5xVl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/de5TRFUl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L68jldcl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/31Uqejbl.jpg)

For some reason it won't let me add anymore captions to the above pics?..


Anyhow, some questions I have -

What type of air filter housing should I have?

What oil cap should I have? Long or short trumpet?

Where can I get the inner trim panels for the cargo area?

What should the cargo floor be made of? Wood?

Is the top of the dash gloss or satin black?

The short trumpet is EJ if I am right, so long one. Remind us the build date regarding the filter. I saw an FC oil bath one lying on the ground at my mates place this morning, though I doubt he would part with it, or anything much….

With the sill off the torque box sections at the front leaf spring mount look pretty good.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Paper element air cleaner came in around September 1959, so would depend on when your car was manufactured. But as always, The Good Book (the parts manual that is) has the definitive word.

If the chassis number on the inner guard is original, then if it's higher than the number shown below for the relevant suffix letter:

15518A
22002B
52826M
11764P
56061S

.. then your car had* a paper element air cleaner.

*Probably. The oil-bath was still sort of an option for applications in "very dusty environments". I'm not aware that it had an RPO code, but the details from your ID plate would be useful info.

The exact colour of the dash-top has been posted here before. It's Cinder Grey with a flattening agent added. See this thread: https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=27325.0

cheers
RET

Righto thanks for the replys!

long trumpet oil cap it is then

Yes, the rear chassis is in very good condition.

FC46508M makes it oil bath filter correct?

Yes, definitely originally oil bath.

cheers
RET

Thanks RET!

Has anybody got a ute/van fuel tank they'd part with?

I wish! Been looking for one as well. They are common with FE FC wagon, as well as FB EK ute/van. I have an FB EK wagon one, which has a slightly different neck to cater for the finny rear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Righto, been hard at it, All brakes now fully reco (originals with stainless sleeves) and fitted up to the front and rear ends.

Both rear quarters have now been paint stripped and metal prepped. Started work on replacing/repairing the plenum vent.

Gearbox is rebuilt and detailed, Steering box is ready to assemble.

Pics to follow


Some more questions -

Steering column, gloss black like steering wheel or satin? same question for the honey pot

Anyone know where to get the headlining retaining strips that are spot welded inside the roof?

If Stinky doesn't see this and reply PM him , he will know about hood lining and he may have the lining material  ..Vern .

I've always known them as Alligator Strips, I don't think you can get them new. You'll probably need to scavenge some from a wreck.

Yep that's them, bummer, I've seen kit in the past for sandman vans but can't seem to find them now  :-\

Any thoughts on the steering column colour?

Some pics

(https://i.imgur.com/vg2Oj6Ul.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/XdxEaiQl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/x64CFqJl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/HL4eiCHl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ltXDLqZl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/spl9Qnxl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/2Zqa3M9l.jpg)

Steering column same as dash I reckon. Cinder grey satin.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

  
   Gareth

        look ups   Stickthis     its a company that has the metal strips 

Legend! Thanks Greg!

Righto, speedway season is over, back to the van!

Bare metaled the cowl and removed the vent drain

(https://i.imgur.com/bJnKCE3l.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/YWiqvv0l.jpg)


The old one is waaaaay past saving as can been seen in the middle left of next pic, the cowl is gonna need more work than I'd hoped too  :-\


(https://i.imgur.com/qFd5DDzl.jpg)

Started repair on the lower A pillar too

(https://i.imgur.com/rj0dVJLl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ZzdgKT0l.jpg)

Hey Gman
I'm about to do the same A pillar repair to my FB Station Wagon,. 1 they are great repair panels although expensive  :o did you use the inner repair panel as well or just the outer?

Look forward to more photos mate very interested.

Regards
FireKraka

G'day,

Yeah pretty expensive but pretty good quality also, yes I am fitting the inners as well (you can see it sitting on the crate in the second last pic)


I'm still looking for a ute/van fuel tank if anyone has any leads?

Hi Gman

I have been trolling through the old restoration pages for ideas, inspiration and wisdom as I have just started my ute restoration. I came across a thread https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=15344.20#:~:text=Reply%20%2337%20on%3A%2023%20May%202009%2C%2020%3A00%3A59%20%C2%BB. He has replaced the original tank with an 80 litre VT Commodore fuel tank. May be an option unless you are keen to go back to original.

Cheers
Jolls

G'day,

Thanks for the thought, but my intension is to restore this as close to factory correct as possible  :)

I'm sure I'll be looking for a while for a tank  :(

Had a very productive weekend, finally have an A pillar!!!

(https://i.imgur.com/tO9IsuMl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/aSyo0Gml.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/0aLNhtSl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/bZKR0ULl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/7hoMNoMl.jpg)

Great effort one more step towards completion.

A bit like eating an elephant; just one small bite at a time!

Thanks for sharing your progress, reading thru your thread shows how available good reproduction rust repair panels and sections have become from various suppliers.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers Jim

(https://i.imgur.com/xjUzjVgl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/5fV6ur9l.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ODr36BUl.jpg)

One down, one to go...  :(

Second spring done, waiting on leaf pad rubbers and I'll assemble the rearend.

Blew the dash cluster to bits for service/repair.

(http://i.imgur.com/Sl6A6Idl.jpg?1) ($2)

Has anyone got any ideas on how to "renew" the white lettering on the glass panels?

should have some here garath   

    will have a look     greg   (fcwagoon)

I'm waiting on my local signwriter to comeback to me with stickers that go on the inside. I'll chase him up tomorrow and see how far away they are.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

I had my gen , oil , temp , etc, stickers made cause they are reverse stick on inside of glass so the clear glue is on front of sticker , also bought  illuminus paint , little bottle like nail polish to do speedo dial ,really looks neat at night and at night it sits on shelf glowing ..

I chatted with the local sign dude - he has got the design done - just waiting in line to get on the cutter. Hopefully should have them next week. The price for one and the price for an A4 sheets worth of them was the same so I have about ten or so being made. I'll post up a pic when its done.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

Last night I raided Greg's shed and scored a mint original warning light guage, now just to find the glass for the fuel. (I'm not super keen on stickers)

(https://i.imgur.com/T184n0dl.jpg?1)

In other news, I'm about to start harvesting this poor old girl for parts, If anybody wants anything yell out.

(https://i.imgur.com/rzSL8sDl.jpg)

I was 40 years too late pulling it from the farm  :( Tin worm has proper finished it but there is tonnes of good stuff. All the drive line is there and is stock, it has a RH weather shield in 8/10 condition. Also has a full set of pull handles. And clearly lots of stainless.

(https://i.imgur.com/sp5QOK9l.jpg)

  Hi Gman ,would like to have the roof gutter trim if possible  Cheers  Steve . ;)

Hi Gman,

The weathershield is mighty attractive.  If you don't want it for your van, I'm interested.

No worries, all those parts are available, PM me if serious

Gareth

Scored this inspirational piece -


(https://i.imgur.com/rVyad7Tl.jpg)


And got the rear quarter bare metaled and prepped


(https://i.imgur.com/yPuXtaEl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/k7u84wkl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Oeb0zKFl.jpg)

Nice work - a good job is always in the preparation!

Enjoying watching your project come to life. I am aways behind with my ute and don't have the space/time (doing a major house reno) to get stuck into the bodywork as yet. I have been focussed on the electrical and small items that I can knock off. I am dropping in to check the prototype glass stickers today for the idiot lights and fuel gauge so will let you know what the come up like as a potential fall back until you find something original.

Cheers
Jolls

Very nice work Gman

Thanks guys!

That'd be great Jolls.

I'm not a panel beater but here we go...


(https://i.imgur.com/wpDvj1Tl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/SfTtWYml.jpg)

This mess is gonna be fun, I recon someone picked this up with a forklift at some point  :'(

(https://i.imgur.com/vP75cHal.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/VIshOR5l.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/LninXrYl.jpg)

Probably doesn't look like it but that came a long way out, I think i'll gently heat it to get the rest. Old metal it tuff as!!

(https://i.imgur.com/L73ZqB1l.jpg)

I love the mechanical advantage approach. Work smart not hard.

Righto, Christmas is over, bit tired of body work so onto the fuel tank.

Massive thanks to Greg (gmhwagoon) for finding this in Ballarat for me, it came out of an FE wagon wreck. It still had fuel in it!!
Needs a few repairs but nothing major. Carried out an internal clean with KBS aqua blast which looking with a torch seemed to do wonders.
These pics are of cleaning all the paint and body deadner off, mineral turps works a treat on deadner.

(https://i.imgur.com/cVh3tNFl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/u9CKGRPl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/CD4Jl9jl.jpg)

So a couple of questions for the gurus, what was the tank coated in originally? is it galvanised or some sort of lead coating? There seems to be some silver paint on the filler neck that was under the deadner, is that correct? What would be the best process to restore the outer part of the tank to make it appear original?