FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

With a standard grey what is the temperature the idiot light should activate? Is the circuit a normally closed or a normally open. Still having trouble with overheating but now think it can only be the temperature sender from the radiator (radiator has a unit fitted to top of tank).

Thanks in advance, Regards

Wayne b

Hi Wayne,
The circuit remains open until the engine overheats and reaches approximately 217 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cheers Stewy   8)

Thanks Stewy.

..........103 degrees Celsius.

If I had 13 psi radiator cap would that make the upper limit about 107 degrees Celsius instead of 103?

Next question.

To run the idiot light and a temp gauge do I need a 3 pin coolant sensor from the trident range http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2013 ($2) or a Water Temperature Switch (Warning Light and Gauge) http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2012 ($2)?

My thoughts are I need a TTS521 (warning light and gauge) and I think that will run both the smiths temp gauge and the idiot light.

Note! I have an m16 x 1.5 thread tapped into the top of the radiator.

Again thanks for your help.

Overheating is a pain in the arse. >:(

Regards

Wayne b

Not sure if this will be helpful but it gives you a bit of information:

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/06/beating-the-heat-advantage-of-a-high-pressure-radiator-cap/

Roughly speaking, ever 1psi we go up on the radiator cap pressure raises the boiling point of the system about 2 -3 degrees F.

Keep in mind also that on a lot of the older cooling systems some people actually suggest that you don't completely fill the cooling system, leave it about 1 to 1 1/2 inches below the full mark on the top radiator tank.

Higher pressure caps are also recommended for modified / performance motors. I'm actually running a 16psi cap on my car with a 305 chev in it. I think if you hunt around you can actually get caps up to 18psi.

I am changing the configuration of the sensors and was hoping someone may know of an OEM sender unit 105±3°C 1/8-27 normally open. Needs to be 2 pin for both the idiot light and gauge. The manufacturers do not specify OEM units on their web page. I have contacted Tridon and they cannot help. Has anyone put a sender unit on a lathe?


Regards

Wayne b

Might be easier to give Howards a call.
http://www.howardinstruments.com.au/

Cheers,
Harv

Perfect thx

Regards

Wayne b

I will be talking to Howards today however for the clever one's amongst us does this solve the problem?

https://www.aisat.com.au/our-products/automotive/v230-093/ ($2)

Regards

Wayne b

Don't believe so.

Some temp senders are "earth return". They have one pin. You send +12V to it, and when the coolant is hot enough the internal contact shuts, letting the +12V flow to earth through the engine block.

Other senders are "insulated return". They have two pins. You send +12V to one pin, and when the coolant is hot enough the internal contact shuts, letting the +12V flow to earth through the second pin.

I think the V230 093 is the latter... just a switch, not a combined switch and variable resistor (for idiot light and gauge).

Cheers,
Harv

After speaking with people today I have abandoned the idiot light and ordered a Smiths Temp Sender, from Howards, to match my Gauge. I will get over not having a light.

Thx Harv for your input.

Regards

Wayne b