FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

as this is an old motor, and yes there are some good places to go and have it done there's nothing like doing it all your self.

so im just seeing if there are any little tips out there that i have missed or might be worth doing

what im looking at doing is

blueprinted and balance,
0.060" 3.125" up jp pistons
010 acl race bearings
arp rod bolts and main stud girldle
ported and polished head with 202 valves and satellite inserts on exhaust
extractors
fit external oil filter
 

tossing up between
 
fitting a toyota blower at 1:1 delivering 3-4 psi with a 17/60 cam
or fitting a bigger cam 27/65

modifying stock dizzy to electric of xf conversion

350 or 465 holley (witch i have already) or buying
a twin stromberg manifold,
or running twin 32/36 or 44 weber's (witch are cheep and easy to get)
or even a single 44 or 48 Weber

modify stock sump for girldle and fit crank scraper and baffles or go dry sump

idd also like to see some time/reliability out of this motor hence everything being small and a lot of money spent making the bottom end stronger

I think twin strommies would be the go to give good fuel mix and don't take too much off when porting as this may decrease performance cos a very small motor. If not much pressure being delivered from blower they take HP to run so why not use small turbo and get better economy or do you just want it for looks. Get 3 angle cut on valves.

mostly i wanted the blower for looks and sound, and its easy to take of and put back to original, were as turbo i need to do exhaust
and i dont plane on engineering the blower,

not to fused if i dont use it, as its only collecting dust at a mates place,

if i went the down the blower root i didn't plane on taking anything off the top on the head,
only 202 or 186 valves, 3 angle seat, stalite inserts on exhaust, debuted inlet and polished exhaust, cc Chambers, port matched flanges, double valve spring, teflon guides, stepped/resurfaced tappets, you no the standard,

i do like the look of twin strongbergs but getting them tuned is a pain if you dont know how or were to get them done,
ive seen a few with 46 jets and fx vales, but no performance figures or fuel consumptions,

that's why i also looked in the Weber's a single 44 or 48 would work well with smallish cam, mild port with a good set of pipes,

after seeing a few other setup i starting to think the 150hp is a no go to maintain any reliability, but 120-130hp or 70-80rwhp is a more reasonable figure

being toying with the option of dry sump but just not sure if the 1500 could be better spent elsewhere for more reliability

    

Nothing like the rumble of a webber and extractors

A blower of any sort won't be legal anyway. Sounds cool. Weber is definitely better I'd think. That's why ppl use xf stuff for many apps

Have you started the rebuild of the car yet. Do you think you will start a build page of your own.

To be honest I would go with the holley setup, it is much easier to setup as a blow through system than any of the other carbs you have mentioned. If you need any advice if you go down this path I have set-up a blow through turbo setup with holley before with good results. Fairly easy and you can intercool the charge if needed . I think you would be better beefing up crank bearing setup rather than dry sump.
Grant

will def start a page just collecting parts before i take it off the road,
also looking to buy new house in the new year, so if that goes ahead i wont be striping till were in, dont want to lose anything in the shift,
+  it summer and it a car made to drive, so i atleast want to enjoy it for 1 session

the engine i plane on doing very soon, in the new year, already have most of the parts, just deciding on keep the cam i have with or without blower or go a bit bigger and natural aspirated.

but the first thing on the cards for me is to fit seat-belts, cant put a baby seat in without them

No probs, I would think less strain on a grey with supercharged as you can make a lot more torque and not rev very hard.
Grant

year ive got a main stud girldle for it, (the sump need to modified to fit)
and im fitting acl race series bearing to it, would love some race series pistons, or even some durelites but there not available anymore, so jp's it is
i dont plane on reeving it over 4500rpm

the only reason i like blown is lowend power and a small cam can be used for a more streetable drive
my everyday car has over 400hp so this doesnt need to be quick just do 110 on fwy and look good doing it

what about a x/2 179,,,or 186/s...
 :D

What about what about what about LOL  ;D

I plan on one day doing a mechanical "LOOKING" injection set up but full fuel injection on a grey motor you can get nice little throttle body,s with trumpets for motor bikes that way it starts cold idles nice good fuel econmy and you get the best out of your engine with injection and computers are very cheap now days for basic injection run the injectors up underneath and no one will ever no its got a computer.

The only downside to a toyota supercharger they dont really make a noise and they look like a toyota supercharger stuck in an old holden engine bay.

Not that i can talk making a nissan engine look like its meant to be there aint easy.
Pete

anyone get get those numbers from a 179/186 with no mods,
but that doesn't have the same 60's look about it.

and wheres the fun in that, if i put a 186 in it this wouldn't even be a conversation, to get 200+hp out of that natural aspirated is easy, if i had that motor, but since this is a stock as rock kingpin front end car its staying that way.

ive built quite a few hot 202 for people and that ain't for me, if it ain't stock its a v8 for me

http://www.sonicinjection.com.au/index.php?page=manifolds-conversions

i aslo look at getting a eaton charger off a v6 and modifying the intake, but the work load would be huge as they have a water jacket in them,

unless you no any other cheaper superchargers that i can use

Ok how about the good old commodore one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERCHARGER-EATON-M90-BLOWER-SUIT-2-LITRE-5-7-LITRE-/130619912630?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e698db1b6

Why not make an adaptor plate to mount it on either a cain/holley manifold and make a intake off the back of it coming out 180 degrees with a  webber facing forward you should have enough room behind it to make the intake set up ?

i looked at theise and the best way i could find was to run it on straight gas, then the stock inlet could be used, and it would be cheep, as on gas, but the nose is too short on that one, idd either need to off set to the front or extend the snout

the factory v6 one look like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EATON-M90-SUPERCHARGER-BRAND-NEW-SUPERCHARGER-/260901345827?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbeee9a23
that one you showed looks easier to install

this is old but john wont care, hey how would you get valve seat inserts in with a big cut  ???

you don't, the cylinder head shop does, lol :D

The insert is only a few thou bigger in OD then the valve itself, so no problem there
and the inset on some cylinders goes into the water jacket, (it took 2 heads before i got 1 that worked)

i thing i can recommend dean is if you deceid to do it, it is well worth doing the radiator outlet pipe mod, (seal it off, drill and tap 1/2bspt down the top of the head) for more even flow through the head

I dont think we are on the same page, im talking valve seat inserts, i think your talking about valve guides.

no i know what your talking about,
stallite inserts, yes and there only a thou bigger in od, normally 0.040-0.060" then the valve itself,

if you google images youll see some generic images but youll see what i mean

I didn't think u can use them with 202 valves. See u learn something new on here all the time. ;D