FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Have started pulling my car apart for an upgrade. VR V6 auto, HR front with HQ discs, rear mounted rack, HR drum rear. HK?? rims. Hopefully ready for perth. Photos to follow.

Sounds great,good luck,can't wait for the pics... :o

Before photo
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110668.jpg)

Going into the shed for the make over
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110725.jpg)

Old Grey motor
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110734.jpg)

Original rust free floor pans
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110731.jpg)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110727.jpg)

Parts of boom box
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110730.jpg)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110732.jpg)

WOW!  :o if mine looks as good coming out of the shed as your's looks going in,I'll be a very happy man!!!Hope you're keeping the grey  :-\....Keep up the pics,love em.Jamie.

Sorry going V6 I have 1 complete stock with 69k on the clock. Johns old wagon mildly modified so thought I cover all the catorgories at the local car show scene. Done floor tunnel today.

more photos of progress

(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110848.jpg)
rust removed ready for replacement

(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110847.jpg)
panel made ready to fit

(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110849.jpg)
panel fitted and rust proofed

(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/freddyc2/P1110850.jpg)
floor tunnel and gear box Xmember fitted still got some tidy up to do

Cut more rust out of front end sub frame today. Have sent front end to V6 conversions for rack and engine mounts to be fitted. Still got to sand floors ready for paint, then time to put it all together.
fred

Replaced tie members today. A little bit of grinding then it's sand the fire wall etc ready for reassembly and paint.

Wire wheeled the inside floors yesterday, my rust free floors were not be so rust free. 2 area's 15 x 25 cut out. 1 replaced and 1 to do tonight now there is Friday night football. It is amazing how much thick paint can hide.
fred

Where are the photo's Freddy?????

are the photo's only on my computer jason the are few up already more to come.

Just wanted to be at the top of the list again. No have been busy renovating my house so car has stalled. I need to get back to my short days at work, then while girlfriend is at her work I play cars.

welding,welding,welding. Makeing fuel tank hole bigger to get a larger fuel tank made. Waiting for painter to arrive to paint front end/sub frame. The hr front is at powder coaters.

Pictures!!!!!

(http://s8.postimage.org/5965627qp/P1120017.jpg) ($2)

Front end before painting


(http://s9.postimage.org/55j64vruj/P1120034.jpg) ($2)

Front end after painting

Now we are talking!!! Nice and shiny mate... Whats next?

JB

more pictures to come ran out of time this morning. Thursday evening mates and I are bolting front on to car. Then fit hr front so so I can roll it around. I have all the bits now, except my fuel tank.

(http://s8.postimage.org/577zsf9o1/P1120020.jpg) ($2)

Under coat

(http://s9.postimage.org/6ozdgb64b/P1120022.jpg) ($2)

Painted.


(http://s11.postimage.org/pctxzz2ov/P1120033.jpg) ($2)

Front end back from the powder coaters.

(http://s11.postimage.org/h2cq5vwin/P1120018.jpg) ($2)

Fuel tank hole just about ready to be filled. 
Getting stainless tank made.  Approx 60 lts

GOING BY THE FIREWALL FRED,YOR NOT KEEPING THOSE ORIG COLORS ?

I agree now your talking.  :)

Looks like some big hurdles jumpes. Well done. Can you pm the cost of the powdercoat for the hr Front end. I just want to do a price check.

Regards

Wayne b

not painting the car itself just tidying up engine bay B4 transplant

Looking good Fred.
Front end looks great!

(http://s8.postimage.org/p90wo5bo1/P1120180.jpg) ($2)
Conpessing springs.  I am the photographer in safety boots.  Unlike my mechanic.

(http://s16.postimage.org/y5cluiuzl/P1120179.jpg) ($2)
Springs in front end.

(http://s18.postimage.org/u9rascz91/P1120306.jpg) ($2)
discs temporally fitted

(http://s7.postimage.org/sir9udaqf/P1120308.jpg) ($2)
Rack mounted

(http://s16.postimage.org/att3j663l/P1120307.jpg) ($2)
just another photo

engine is at mechanics for freshen up, auto is going to shop soon for a service. Should see some major progress soon I hope

Still looking good Fred. Regards Wayne b

Well done mate. Keep up the good work.

Fred, just wanted to know if the powder coaters gave you any idea on how the coating will stand up to stone chips and the like. I've seen a few comments posted about durability, I'm looking at having my crossmember,springs and rear end done. Keep it up looking forward to the end product of your labourings.
Jim

apparently its harder than 2pak, so I guess it would stand up OK. I am going to 2 pak my diff so I will be able to do a comparison

Looking good.

You mentioned at the start that you are going with a HR drum brake rear. I thought you needed disc rear with the sort of conversion - to be equal to or better than the brakes that came original on the VR?

not sure on that one lamo, I will check though. I see your in the ville, do you who shortens diffs up this way

I am only new in this game, Freddy, but from what I have read/heard, these guys are meant to be good.

Driveline Services Australia
 63 Pilkington Street
 Garbutt Qld, 4814
 Phone: +61 7 4755 0496

Liam.

Fred, I've been told by a customer that you can use the c/dore offset diff by putting a short axel on the long side and cutting the housing down to suit, this will be around the same size as a standard early diff. He has done it a few times on rods and it looks like standard, I've seen it on one of his rods and one he is in the middle of doing, looks good, just another thought to think about.
Regards Jim

Jim I have read this is what people are doing, just my skills aren't upto it. Freght for a diff to NSW and back is a killer
fred

Hey Fred, I used the vs diff and cut it on the lathe and shortened it myself. The guy to use to shorten the axles is in Malanda, he makes tools. Cost me $150 per side 3 years ago.
Good luck.
JB

Fred, if you can cut a straight line and weld then it should be fairly simple. I asked Adrian (who is the guy I spoke about) how it was done and he said it is pretty simple. He cut he housing through where the spring plate will go,cut off the excess and put a 150mm long sleeve inside, drilled four 5/16" holes in each end for plug welding "v"d the joint and welded it all together. The main thing is to make sure you get the joint level, he did this by upending the housing on his shed floor and checked the fit with a level. He did not need to cut the axles down as he used another short axle. If you don't think you can do it, then I would think it should'nt be to hard to find someone in your area that could do it for you.
Regards Jim

Nice work Fred,but geez,that's the hard way of compressing springs!!! :o Drop a ball joint,put in the spring then pass a length of 1/2 inch rod through the shocker mounting holes and do it up with nuts on each end.... ;)

Wayne

Not to hijack the thread but I got my frontend done for $350.

Cheers

Craig

gee, my parts for my front end alone cost nearly a grand, must have been a quick job, but that includes new everything and new springs and shocks.

hey what did you guys use as spring saddled in the tower, rubber or that hard stuff cut to shape to stop the metal on metal?

 I have polycarbonate here I can cut on waterjet dean .

The $350 was the sandblast and powder coating but not for springs shocks etc.

Cheers
Craig D

Ok yep sorry misinterpreted you there. I decided not to powdercoat mine cos the blaster is also a powdercoater and he said to paint it but not in 2 pak.

27th january was last post SHIT. The nats are over, my mechanic has had his holiday so time to get some stuff done. Engine is reassembled, auto is done, bought a donor car for the little bits you forget about. Happy days. OH and am going fishing tonight so no progress tomorrrow.

Hey Fred,
I measured my diff spacing about a thousand times. I have two sitting here and everyone has told me to go and jam two short axles in. Just doesn't compute with me when the tail shaft in the diff is central to begin with. My measurements have me at cutting 67.5mm either side. I want my diff centered so as to not run into any problems later.
The commodore diff line is centered - it's the crown that's offset.
Now I am no mechanic or engineer but I can't see how an offset diff will run well. Get it done properly for your setup i.e. get your wheels first so you know accurately how much to shorten. Then, check out the thread on diff to gearbox angle just to make your head hurt!

Got my engine and auto in today. Some F@#kwit employee at V6 conversions welded the engine mounts on the wrong sides, so out with the angle grinder after powdercoating it. NOT HAPPY. Also have to make a plate to adapt the transmission mount. BUT I am still happy, the car left the shed for first time in 18 months.

oh yeah i just went back and noticed that too.... what'd they say bout it being wrong way around?

OH he doesn't work here anymore, well F@#K that doesn't help me now. That is me being calm.

Its a company problem not the employees.
Imagine if I said to my customers its not my fault it was the employee.
He took the cash so it is his problem that product has his name on it.
I would have sent another free of charge to keep my reputation.

You are very right, but another part wouldn't have helped the front was finished and fitted to the car. I am not so angry today so no explenatives. Heading to workshop when my mate get home from fishing to finalise a few things, then I will bring car back home to do some stuff myself. Will also try and test fit chassis kit today 

spent the Saturday at a rock and rods nostalgia festival and a dance Saturday night so no work done. Sunday i made the accelerator pedal and brake booster bits now to fit. The accelerator pedal is vr commodore welded some 4mm plate to back cut hole for handbrake to pass through, hope it works now.

V6Conversions have had a crap reputation for years. Only thing that helped them was better opinions on products than ol Castlemaine Rod shop

Finnaly found someone to make my fuel tank, with rounded corners on sides only. VR commodore fuel pump assembly. 670 long x 570 wide and 229 deep. 170 below floor 50 above. give me a little bit capacity than standard. 

well I have not posted anything about this for 4 years. Skip forward a bit, brakes are done, chassis is done, collapsible steering is done, rack is done, rewiring is almost complete,engine is in which brings me to yesterday. Turned the key (YAY) but no go injector seals have perished from sitting. OH WELL.
fred

back on the horse..

started and ran car for 25 seconds yesterday, no water in it yet.
fred

motor and wiring is all but done. Had to rebuild transmission (apparently leaving them sit for 6 years is not good for them). Air conditioning is finished. Just got to do seat belts and interior and stereo.
fred

Photo's? Would love to see some shots.

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Hi Fred
Good to hear that you are back the job, I am a real fan of the V6 conversions in our holdens and you will really enjoy it when you get to drive it, my sedans a daily driver great fuel economy and enough power, sounds like you are doing the same as I did and I would love to see photos.
I'm currently doing an FB/EK Ute and the V6 I have for that was dyno'd at 227HP at the rear wheels of the car it was in which is more than the standard VN VP V8 at the time, series 1block, VR heads and a lot of other work should be fun.
Any way keep going and we look forward to photos.
Regards
Neil H

Won't sound like mine Neil !!!


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I have a CD of a V8 NES 😜😂🙄

Hsha


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Car passed engineer inspection on Friday. Engine, gearbox, seats, seat belts, diff, fuel tank, column. Off to dept of transport on Tuesday.
fred