FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

I am aware that the columns from FB to HR are shorter than the FE FC column. I wish to use a later model column with an FC steering wheel to move the steering wheel a little further away from the drivers positon.

In relation to steering columns and steering wheels, will the FC steering wheel fit onto the splines of later FB, EK, EJ, EH HD HR Columns? If not when did the change occur with the splines?

Keith

I've got an FC wheel on an EK column. Works a treat  ;)

Young Keith

There was a change in Holden splines but this did not happen until about the HQ.  The issue is where the spline is located in the FE/FCwheel.  I think the latest column a FE/FC wheel fits on to (without modification is an FB/EK) because as you know the FE to EK are based on the same unibody structure with just cosmetic/styling changes.  The shorter column in the FB just made up for having a dished steering wheel.

An FB/EK column is about four inches shorter that FE/FC.  The van used to have a standard wheel and FB column and it was difficult to get your legs under.  When I rebuilt it I cut and shut the column and housing so the steering wheel is now 2 inches further away than standard which allow my legs to get under it.

All you need is a MIG, chop saw and a good brain (I have seen that in your pictures lately).   

 regards

Albert (the butler)

Hey Albert ;),

If they shaved a bit closer you would have :o :P ;D.

Dean.

I was wondering if a column from a later car would fit, EK auto columns are bit scarce on the ground, I thought that a later model would do the job. Obviously not.

Thankyou

Dean

ROFLMAO  ;D ;D ;D

Keith

Im buggered then if u need a good brain.....time to ring Rods racks ha ha  :D

Keith, EJ/EH columns are a suitable length for an FC; spline the same, so maybe easy to modify either the column or even the FC wheel to suit?
Machine an adaptor plate (hub) to marry the two?

Someone of your capabilities could surely make the bastard fit...  :)

Keith, I've got an FB column in my car. With the FB shifter and the FE wheel. You have to bend the shift lever a bit to get your gears without it hitting the wheel. You can use EJ-EH columns but you have to modify the mounting holes slightly. The EJ box has a faster ratio than EH, but the fastest ratio is FB-EK.

It's also easier to wire up the blinkers than the FE-FC blinkers. Not as many wires from the switch.

Colin.

I FITTED A EH AUTO COLUMB IN A FC WAGON .HAD TO REAM OUT THE 3 HOLES ON THE ST/BOX WHICH  MOUNTS IT TO THE SUBFRAME.THEN ADJUST THE LINKAGE FOR SHIFTING AND USED PITMAN ARM OFF EH AS WELL IF I REMEMBER RITE.DON'T KNOW HOW YOUD GO WITH MAN/LIKAGES.LUV MY FC'S BUT THE EH'S COLUMB AND WHEEL WITH EXTRA CHROME LOOK PRETTY COOL.OK.

Keith,
I had my FC column shortened by 3 inches, with the shaft cut ,resplined and re threaded, wasnt a hugh cost but still have all the original component and looks.


regards

Weddo

I think if u use a HT, HT steering collapsible column u can still retain the original top but depends if u want original, but would collapsible be safer and u could go back to old one when u sell it?

And mandatory in most instances, when considering an engine transplant.

even if your not, it must be a lot safer for your chest having collapsible.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MODIFIED-SHORTENED-STEERING-COLUMN-EJ-EH-HD-HR-HOLDEN-/170616347910?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b986dd06

i saw this on ebay but may be a bit exe

How can it be done ???

I've just got hold of a HT for the motor but I've been looking at other bits that might be worth pilferring.

By adapting the bottom of the [collapsible] HT column/shaft to the top of the FE column/shaft.

Apart from just the motor and column, also consider taking the transmission, radiator, seats (if they are buckets), brakes (if it has front discs), wheels and maybe the diff centre.

Regards,

Ol_Girl_58

Also from the HT, if you use a HD-HR diff housing you can adapt the rear backing plates to match the disc brakes up front, you will need to change the stubs as well and you will need to have a HR front end fitted to do this, use HD-HR balljoint front end, upper and lower control arm, HT stub, discs and calipers. Retain the HR steering arms to maintain the correct steering geometry.

With a bit of work you can also adapt the master cylinder and brake booster.

Essentially you will be able to use the entire braking system from the HT if you so desire. If you need a HR diff housing I have one, with axles, no centre. PM me.

Keith

What I've got is a HT Belmont ute. 3 on the tree, bench seat, drums all round. Not real flash, doesnt even have a cigarette lighter socket. I am going to use the motor, a sweet 161 HC with my grey box bolted to the back. If anyone has photo's of the enigine mounts for a red in an FE/FC I would like to see them please. If I go this way will the grey clutch bolt onto the red flywheel ? If I use the red gearbox I'll have to do some cutting which was not really wot I wanted to do.  I'm the second owner of this car and its a good one so I'm reluctant to modify it to much but I would like to make it a little safer/nicer to drive.
Besides if I'm going to cut I might as well put in an aussie 4 speed. I have 2. Will that bolt up to the red bell housing or do I have to change that as well and wot support will it need under the floor ? I understand whats been said previously but I'm a "MONKEY SEE MONKEY DO" kinda guy. I need pictures, lots of pictures. As far as brakes are concerned, I also have a HQ wagon at my disposal. Wot can I use off it ? It has a 173 LC but its been run out of oil.  I think the trimatic is alright.  It has front disc's and a hi back bench seat. I also have a friend's brother scouring paddocks out west for a HD/HR with a disc front on it.
  I was goint to put the 14" rims on it but newman says he has a 3.55 diff centre which I think is a better option for the 13" rims now that you cant get tyres with an equivilant rolling diameter to original. It has 175/75 13 on it now and seems to rev/work hard.

I am digressing tho. What do I need to do to graft the top of one to the bottom of the other. I also have an FB ute column.
 
Any advice or instruction is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

The grey clutch bolts right up to the red flywheel.
The way the engine mounts work for a first timer is this - cut the mounts from your HR front end and attach them to the engine. The engine will need an EH sump & pick up. Lower the engine and trans into position keeping the motor as far back as possible (but not fouling the accellerator linkage). Put a trolley jack under the trans to get the engine level. You should see that the mounts are just sitting off the back of the HR front end by about 1/4 inch. You may also need to clean up the mounts to get good contact with the crossmember. Once you are happy that everything is level and good, tack the mounts into position, remove the bolts from the mounts and take out the engine & trans. Then weld the mounts into place.

I'm pretty sure you need a 4 speed bell housing to suit the Aussie 4 speed - but not 100% on this

Do a search under "chassis kit" and you should find some pics of what's needed for hanging the rear of the gearbox.
The HQ front brakes are OK but the caliper is big and ugly. It's better to use HZ calipers as they give better clearance and are much lighter.

Ken

3 speed all syncho gearbox and aussie 4 speed use the same bellhousing.

Keith

Mark,

I have posted a link to the floor modifications commonly used in this type of conversion. An ideal is to get hold of an EK Auto tunnel and weld it into the floor. You can opt for a factory one if you can find one or an aftermarket one will do the job as well. Have a look at the photos, it will become evident as to what is required. The underneath of Ken's car has a trimatic fitted and this requires the same type of mounts that will be required to fit the Aussie 4 speed

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,14706.0.html ($2)

Keith