FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Here I have a late  FC Holden special Taxi (with document/registrations/taxi stickers[/color]
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010042-1.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010050.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010049.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010041.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010052.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010051.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010044.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/P1010043.jpg)

Engine: L464904 (originally)
FC225-18852-A
Trim 254-847
Paint 253-7773
253-5300 insert

It was originally 2 tone grey. Black and White Taxi Service Cooperative, was a smaller subsidiary company, set up for taxi owner/drivers who were given "b grade" licences after the government decided to issue them to ex servicemen from World War 2. Only 20 were issued which makes this a unique car (ie owner-driver), especially because I have the "b grade licence" docs from the original owner, Mr Stephen Horace Miller.

I went to have a look and the guy really wanted it gone, so I had a look, expecting a complete disappointment. But its better than my FE project, in terms of floor rust etc, and it is pretty much all there. The thing I like is it comes with a lot of history.

There will be a lot of history and research put on this page, as well as the build process.

I have always said I wanted a themed car, perhaps an old delivery car, but now Im excited (just a little bit :D;)) to have the opportunity to get 2 cars, both my favourite (FE 1st and FC 2nd) back on the road.

So my plan is to continue to try and get my FE finished as a classic custom, but now I will probably do more customising and change colours etc to what I want, but bring the taxi back to original taxi specs etc, keeping it completely stock so that it can remain a part of history.

Here is a cool pic. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/02/599665cdafd70267b35256e8a5c64143.jpg) This is the depot/service station from which my taxi worked from, within the Adelaide restricted taxi zone, which all B class licences were certified to service. Shell stopped using the Neptune name and called them Shell from 1959 (although it seems that perhaps independed stores did not change) but I am not sure about the taxi depot. If anyone has any info regarding the taxi company in Adelaide, pls let me know. Here is a pic of the paint style typical of an FC taxi. Mine had black diamonds over the white at the top of the doors and beneath the windscreen and late 1959 third generation paint, with fin extensions.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/02/0fd5664e32d53d0474308c155d0f79ac.jpg)

Very cool photo. Does this mean you will have to have 2 project pages? That will keep you busy. Stroke of luck the car coming from near your partners old stamping ground.

Hope it all goes well.

Regards

Wayne B

I thought that all taxis were based on business sedans, meaning the car body number should start with FC 217, not FC 225. Maybe Ken can provide some insight here?

In any case it seems to be a good start

Keith

He was an independent who bought and run his own small fleet, run from a rental property close to the city (verified by his neighbour). They bought a car, then painted them and run them exclusively from the Gouger Street depot as in the pic, with other ex servicemen.

Yeah Wayne, was lucky to grovel to the missus with some kind of purpose ha ha. :-*

Forgiveness is easier to achieve than permission.  :D Luckily your wife is very understanding.

Having documentation makes this fantastic. I love theme cars. :)
Look forward to seeing progress photos.

Cheers
Paul

Ahh found the pictures.

Looks like you have a nice base to start with  :)

Paul, do u have the ambo in pic? I wonder how many ppl chucked up in the back lol

Yes the ambulance is mine.  :) I don't think I want to know how many people have chucked up in the back. I also have a HR hearse and just acquired a 1942 Willy's Jeep. I still need a divi van and perhaps a fire engine, then I think  :-\ the collection would be complete.

Cheers
Paul

And a taxi. Hey are u in Radelaide? I am wanting someone to go to a library and see if they can find any info on "Black and White Taxi Service".

I forgot to mention the RACV and taxi, the list goes on with theme cars. I would also need a bigger shed.

I am in Mount Gambier, not Adelaide so cant help you with your search. Hopefully one of the other members from this site might be able to help you out. I wonder if you contact the library they might have someone there who can do historical searches for you?

Cheers
Paul

Only the larger taxi companies used business sedans - as said, the smaller companies just bought specials and had them painted in their colours.
Ken

Thanks for the verification Ken, but the proof is in the whatever u call it  ;) doco's of the time, as it proves he bought what he wanted and then converted them.

It was a long way for the guy to go each day, if he worked the restricted city area and lived down Hackham way. There wasn't any freeways back then!

http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/47200325?searchTerm=%22neptune%20oil%22%20%22service%20station%22%20adelaide&searchLimits=l-title=The+Advertiser+%28Adelaide%2C...|titleid%3A44|||l-availability=y|||l-australian=y|||l-decade=194

Found closest dealer in 1940 was at Clovelly park. Cool advert for adelaide people.

Your not going to believe it. I took a stab in the dark with some names and receipts I have, rang ppl I didnt know and after numerous calls and trying to convince people I am not an axe murderer or scammer, I have tracked down the second owners  brother. The second owner died before finishing the FC. Turns out he has the original Taxi meter for this car (Brass, but would be a 1966 one,) which is a dollars and cents one. The original would have been in pounds. It also shows that it was a taxi for a fair length of time, cos decimal came out in 1966. The last time it was registered was 1973. He is willing to sell it to me and he cannot wait to see the car finished, but he will only part with the meter if I finish the car. He has other bits he said, hopefully the internally mounted period taxi sign. This also means it would have had to have a radio in it too.

Apparently the guy who bought it was doing up other cars, one he prioritised was a Monaro (obvious reason he wanted that done first) and he pretty much didnt do much with this one, except he obviously found a door and boot and a few bits he put on. It is cool how I have 2 other rego papers for different cars too, which means this guy had a small fleet by 1973, so he was heavily involved in the taxi game by looks of it.

Well done on your find, you have been really lucky with this, particularly finding the taxi meter that came from the car!

Keith

http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/47569082?searchTerm=%22181%20pirie%20street%22%20&searchLimits=l-availability=y|||l-australian=y

Took me ages, hours in fact but i found this in an online newspaper, a 1954 advert for Black and White Taxi's! This was the company headquarters where company cabs run from.

Just a question.

Are you still married or divorced?

  :D :D :D :D :D

Ha ha, Im trying hard....but still married  :D

Having a project car is a bit like being married, except u spend more time with the project  ;D :D ;D :D ::)

I talked to the owners of the photo and it turns out that this photo was taken (they think) in 1958. Looks like it would have been late or early in the year cos it looks like it was quite warm, with vents open in cars and windows open in the  servo. The people with the picture said they bought the photo off the original owners of the pic, who told them they opened up this Taxi and servo complex and this was a picture of its first day of operation (How exciting for the owners and drivers) in Adelaide city.

This bloke who had my FC bought 2 more taxis in the next 14 years, but this car was kept registered til 1973 and became his daily driver during late 60's to early 70's.

So by all accounts there were only 2 "Black and White Taxi" depots possibly open at the time, within Adelaide city.

So "Stephen Horace Miller" might be in the photo. The later licences he had state "All stands in the Adelaide restricted area". This means that CBD taxis could only go within a 5 mile radius of the city. Cars in the outer suburbs were also restricted somewhat.

I find this all very interesting, but I may be boring others to tears  :D :'(

I have been trawling old newspaper archives and the taxi company appears to have used a specific brand of Shillings/pence or whatever type 50's meter (Argo chain driven jobby). Well, I found one on Ebay and have purchased it. If anyone comes across an original period taxi sign, pls PM me.

I will now seek verification of this by researching the family and tracking down a relative to confirm which bloke it is in the picture. That would be kind of cool to know (just to fulfill my weirdnesses). Here's some of the docs. The 1956 must have been from an FJ car hey Ken?

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/Email0023.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/Email00110.jpg)

Yes engine is from a March 1956 FJ sedan - just before the FE was released

Ken

Thanks Ken, jee that was quick  ;D

Pics of what I have uncovered so far. I am very very happy that this car took bugger all to get home, just few kays away too.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010172.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010171.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010170.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010169.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010168.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010167.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010166.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010165.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010163.jpg)

My theory is that it was running around in a city, never off road and it was always driven early in its life, so never sat around in some shed or in a yard and probably was drying out all the time. ha ha  ??? ::) :P

The plan with this one is to take the other ek engine I got from the blue FE car cos I know it runs and doesnt need much work, so Ill give it a quick hone and re ring and bearing it with a backyarder crank linish  :D and will lap valve seats etc and do some work on the head just to get her sounding and running for rego. Give the other 3 speed box a quick once over, take front end out of taxi which is probably sad, but re-do the one out of the blue one until Im ready to slip it in. I will take diff out of blue one and might use it. Then try to get the taxi on the road ASAP with a normal roadworthy, keeping the body as original as possible.

Then once I can cruise with her a bit, I will work slowly on building a warm grey and will port the heads and see what its like in terms of bores etc. It would have done a lot of miles. Will be interesting to see whats inside.

Just 1 question - is it generally ok just to flush the solid brake hoses out with fresh fluid and just replace flexible lines?

with your brakes i just did mine un hook flexible ones and replace if stiff blow pipes out with air gun and run new fluid i use a 1 man bleed thingo works great.

I just honed my wheel cylinders out and fitted new cups with grease on the psitons but unless you are going to drive it soon leave the brakes till last.

Yeah i thought it would be nice to be able to drive it in and out of shed, so ill do the stop gap engine and front end then i will do the brakes, easier to run on and off trailers and it will give the young ones something to drive around the paddock. That will get them more interested too. Funny how my 8 year old flies around our kart track at 110km/h yet he doesn't like to go on slow show rides. I suppose your not in control of those. At least of the brakes arent up to scratch we will only have sheep to hit.

Here are some more bits I found. A sticker-

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/sticker.jpg)

I would hate to owe you money, you would find a bolt of lightning the way you are going ;D

Keep digging mate.

Great stuff.

Regards

Wayne B

I found some time today to start on the boot. Looked pretty bad when first started but mainly crows feet thingy's. There's a few dents and rough bodge jobs. At least now I have clean slate to work with. There's a really ripply bit where someone has belted it with a hard long punch or something instead of a flatter dolly  >:(
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010273.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010275.jpg)

You sure were right about someone hitting the boot hard .................. they punched it all the way to the front of the car  :D :D :D

Thats the other project being used as an angled platform lol. Hey u should get a job on Letterman with that sort of material  ;). U oughta see the bumper!

Well, I was suppose to be doing this as a quick resto, ya know when u rub and sand something back, see all the little pits and surface rust underneath that is so miniscule that u think, na this is a quick job, then hit it with the undercoat. I used to be able to just pretend not to see that stuff.

This is way too sexy for a taxi bonnet, in fact nearly as sexy as Jessica Alba, check out those curves and no filler in the front....... :-*, must have been the most careful taxi driver in Adelaide! :)

I know.......I have issues...... (missus is never wrong  :P) but I am having fun  ;D in my shed  ;D sun is out......, music up...... workin on my FC Holden.  I figure the boot and bonnet are so good, Ill blast them both at the back, but wanted to see what I had first. ;)

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010286.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010285.jpg)

All progress is good progress :)

Comparing the bonnet to Jessica Alba might be an issue you may need help for in the future ;D

As you say a good day in the sun. Keep it going.

Regards

Wayne B

Well! The guards are pieces of crap.  :P Ummm, the fe ones on the blue car are really good though, so its just the peaks that need doing on those, but there is more fly wire in the peaks on the FC that I think I could re screen the back door  :-\ So i got to work on hacking away at it and got one of the peaks ready to go in. The peak is so old that it too needs a blast. Not sure if the other guards are worth keeping. Can you get the section at the bottom, i know u can with the others?

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010287.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010288.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010289.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010290.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010291.jpg)

Well, out of winter hibernation, first day of summer is still too cold, but have made some progress. However, I am being too fastidious and my quick rebuild turned to shit again last night as I got carried away and removed all of the quarter windows and doors from the taxi and sent them to the blaster to get inners and channels done. I have also stripped the front suspension and ordered all of the parts needed for a complete front end resto and also had all the salvageable parts blasted and etched. New shocks, king pins, lowered springs and bushes etc are all on the way! Didn't go power coat because its not original so just gunna paint this in black. My other car I'll powder coat it's HR front end. Have a fair few other bits and pieces at blasters now - boot, bonnet, front sections, grille support, hinges etc. Seats are out, interior all stripped. This is now not a "quick get on the road" build, this has turned into a full resto jobby. I am officially a crazy idiot, but why go to all the trouble and not do it properly. Being a taxi which had no prangs and in such good condition, I think I need to do it some justice.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/blastessuspension.jpg)

The house where the car was painted has a few large driveways, visible on Google earth. Interesting.

deano,the old neerim south f.c taxi,is sitting out in a paddock at willow grove.
want me to chase a contact number for you... ;)

Lookin good.
As they say if you're gonna do something, you might as well do it properly.

If you are saying what I think you are, I think i will pass. I gotta get focussed  :D

Hi Dean,
In the 1952 directory the listing is Black & White Taxi Service, 181 Pirie St. Adelaide,
but Hackham was a country town by rail 21 miles south.
There was a mrs A.S Williams and mr R.R Williams and he was listed as a farmer.


Cheers Stewy   8)

Yep i know about pirie street but we are talking ten years later. He may have registered it at hackham for some reason but the taxi licence gives same address. They used to hire cars out too in those days.

Got a fair bit of stuff from the blasters again today, tomorrow I pick up the boot and bonnet where I am getting some tricky areas done but not the flats of course. These doors have some small holes in the usual places like seams etc but not too bad. I am glad I did them because now I know what I have got!  :P

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxiblasteddoors1.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxiblasteddoors2.jpg)

Was a nice warm day today so I got stuck into some painting. I found this GMH black, looks better than the high gloss I reckon, I really like the matt finish. I have some gloss here too but I think I'll stick with this. Painted all the suspension parts and springs, have ordered all the front end parts, just sussing out the bushes, some have the little ridges still, only 1 small one doesn't so I think I could use them again but perhaps Ill put all new ones in so I know what I have. I have floor pans, a couple of peaks and rust panel repair sections. Hope it stays warm later next week, I'll start cutting and patching, when I am sick of that I'll get some suspension therapy.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/suspensionbitpainted.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/srings.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/rubbersetcfrend.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/pansandbits.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/frend.jpg)

Deano, they all do look the part. Your at a very similar stage to muself, however you are going much faster in the right direction. Looking good.

Regards

Wayne b

I started getting old bloke pains so I finished up. I think that's as far as I will go with these doors in terms of stripping, a few chips need feathering out but seems solid and ok, so just some metal to go into these little spot on back door and some pitting and small holes on the other side and she is pretty good. Bloody hell I am loosing weight which isn't a bad thing either! It's nice when you take 50 years of grease, oil and dirt and bring it back to almost new.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/rhsdoor.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/lhsdoor.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/closerust1.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/closedorrust.jpg)

My other build page is the Breton Blue v8 Sedan project for those who are interested.

Deano,(got it right this time) I used a blue nylon rippa strippa disc to get all my paint off, they come in 4&5 inch for angle grinders and work a treat. Tokk about 1/2 hour to do inside & out, all you need to do is guide the grinder around and the disc does the rest.
Regards Jim

I got me some of those, but I don't think it will be necessary to go back to complete bare metal on these as the foundation is quite good, but if anyone can explain the merits of always going back to complete bare metal, I'll be glad to hear opinions. I started working on filling the doors. I fixed a 2 inch groove in this and filled it. Came up ok.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/doorrep.jpg)
Started doing this to the other side, but I think I'll have to patch the rest. Just did the corner  a few inches so if I do a patch it can be a triangle shape.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/doorquestion.jpg)

looking good Deano, I've asked my panel shop customers that question and the response was depending on the amount of old paint and it's condition will determine the way to go. By rubbing back the paint you need to make sure you feather out all the rub throughs and repairs fullyso you have a smooth finish from which you can undercoat and then top coatand you should'nt have any problems with sink back. If you have a lot of old paint or really poor paint then go back to bare metal and then metal prep and ecth prime, undercoat and top coat the main thing with bare metal is you have no imperfections that can come back and bite you later on. If you are happy to rub your doors back just give them a couple of coats of high fill primer and block them back smooth before you top coat them.
Regards Jim

Patched a bit which when grinded a bit more ended up being a canyon with bog! So here tis. Bit hard with flash in bad light.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/patchdoor.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/patchdoor.jpg)

Just a trick fix the inside bit first so you can get to it to clean it up and may have to tap it out a bit to grind it.

Also if you get some deoxidine and wipe the crusty looking rust on the inside will help.

Also for smaller holes get some copper and put it behind where ya gunna weld if you dont have any msg me i have copper bus bar offcuts we use in our switchboards.

Thanks for the tips, keep them coming. I will do the inside first on the next door. Here is the pic I was suppose to put up.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/patch.jpg)

In hind site I perhaps should have like you said, done the small patch on the back corner bit where that bad rust is right through, this would have pulled it down towards the ground as it sits on the stand, giving a larger one piece patch more strength and less tendency to wanna flare the bottom if not careful with the heat and where I tack. I bet you come across a lot of guys in your field that just blaze away and don't think logically when planning such things. I know some young fabricators who have never done small tin or this type of thing before. How should I use the copper?

You put copper behind the hole and weld onto the copper to fill a hole and the weld wont stick to copper .

Sorta like putting tape behind a hole and filling it with bog if you get my drift.

The apprentiice uses it lots to fill in hinge holes in boxes when he cocks them up.

Ok cool. I should be able to get some copper but if i can't Ill ask you with a PM.

Yep we have a air bit of offcut.

How much would I need, a few bits a few different sizes?

PM me your addy ill send you some.

Next I am going to have a crack at rolling back the fold at end of door and manufacturing an inner section repair and then doing the outer with the fold myself. Any ideas are welcome, tips would be appreciated. This will be one of those rewarding things if I can pull it off but may cause me headaches, but at least its going to be done properly hey!

Nice work Deano,wish I was doing anything even vaguely related to cars but unfortunately I am busy doing boring stuff like stormwater,second fix,driveway prep,moving,installing air-con,having another baby (well,I'm not having the baby  :P )etc etc etc etc....

Yeah but youde be in the good books with the Mrs hey if ya could  ;) we are building new house too. But ill either throw myself into the cars so they are rolling shells by the time we move and the missus goes crazy wanting new furniture. Unfortunately she doesn't want cool vinyl fc seats in the house! No class I tell ya    >:(

Hi

Here are my floors pans after giving them a good buff with the wheel.

See the vast difference, there was hardly any of that insulation/sound stuff on the RHS. Looks like they have been replaced because of the diff paint colours. If so they did a great job. Just that little hole in the right rear and left far front to deal with. What do the Guru's think, one would be forgiven to think these have been replaced or is this some strange Holden thing?  :D

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010027.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010029-1.jpg)

Cheers

Deano

Well, its amazing what you see if you start cleaning all the oil and crud off. It appears that my suspicions are correct. Basically the whole right side of the underbody has been refurbished. Oral history indicates that in the mid 80's the bloke who was the second owner who was doing up the monaro at the same time, actually died and didnt finish the car. This sort of spurs me on in some way to finish it (God bless him and imagine what that HK is worth now) :'(. So as the pics suggest, the outer and inner RHS subframe legs have probably been replaced. Looks like the inner sills were cleaned up and done at the same time on the RHS because they have put that protectant tar crap on there.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010032-1.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010033.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010034.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010035.jpg)

See the other side for comparison.

I went out to do a little work on the boot and ended up doing this? GO FIGURE!!!  :P

A little bit going on at the front and a cool ole school braze repair at the centre, but apart that the sills appear to be all good. Much better than the FE's, that is definitely the case!!!  :D

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010037.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010038.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010039.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010040.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010045.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010042.jpg)

Gees Deano you make it look so easy. How do you keep up with which post your on? You must have a duel computer screen. ;D

Regards

Wayne b

Figjam on the gadgets mate. I'm used to having many screens open at work.

The boot was pretty crap really with some creases in it. Probably customers and their bikes and shit LOL  :D, but its repaired and dolled up and painted in etch now! Had to wait for it to cool down a bit. Don't you just love fresh paint!

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010052.jpg)

Finished the door (a minor bit in back to do). Bit of rust but not much.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010050.jpg)

And I etched the bonnet too, this has no filler at all and was straight as man!  :o
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010054.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010053.jpg)

I gotta high fill a few ripply bits on boot but that should come up ok.

I'm having a rest now over xmas break.

Well what a cool morning I just had. I visited a few people in the suspected house where Stephen the original owner lived. Bumped into an old lady probably nudging the 90 mark who was the neighbour. She had a great yarn with me and gave the nursing home and the owners wife's name who is still alive. The story goes that Stephen was a bushman who could not read or write but was a workaholic. He had another house in the early 60's in unley but he hated the city so in 61 he bought a block at lot 7 Williams avenue. It was all just vineyard and no suburbs then. He saved up between pay cheques to buy bricks and built the house himself. Every day he would make the trek from hackham to Adelaide to work the taxi in the city. He was a bit rough from Broken Hill in outback NSW but was great with kids. He would work all day then overload the car with kids and take them to the beach in the FC. He hand painted the diamond dots on the car. The body of the car was black and the roof and back quarter was white. It had black dots/diamonds at the top of the doors the neighbour said, hence confirming the top was white and around door frames. He had 5 daughters and a son. He was a war veteran. His wife did all the books. There is a Humphrey sticker on the rear ash tray. Probably put there by one if the kids. The house he built is now number 1 Williams Avenue Hackham. It's next door to the one I thought it was. It is now a 2 storey. I'll try and get in touch with the original owners wife and kids to get more info.

Your getting closer Dean. Keep at it if you get some info it will be well worth it.

Regards

Wayne b

Thanks wayno

Ok. I have made a tough decision  :P. I have decided to flip things around. Make the FC a v8.

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep the taxi original & get something else to V8! With all the documentation the Taxi has it would be a shame not to bring it back to it's former glory.  :'(

Dean.

The body will be all original and the interior, it will only be running gear which can all go back later if need be. Don't make me go mental again, just say "It's your car, just do what ya want man" lol. It's only an FC anyway  ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)

Maybe I should buy a Valiant V8 daily driver. I live out bush so parking not much of an issue. Then restore both back to original, perhaps just put the hr front in the taxi with the v6? I think Ill get rid of the rb30 if anyone interested. It has 2 boxes with it. I also have that 1 tonner diff if anyone interested ($200). DON'T DO THIS TO ME ...................Please

JUST DO IT!!!!! Don't worry about keeping it original. I was weight up the same thing with the ute but at the end of the day YOU are the one driving it so do what you what. The purest are going to have to accept that its your car and reflects your personalty.
Glenn

Well its also suppose to be a fun resto around my small home town too with mates at the local car clubs and we have lots of 50's balls out here etc, so i could be the designated driver for all the sloshed ones, now how cool would that be! It would be like reliving the original taxi but how cool once registered to get it all going and done right it would sound awesome and make a statement. the FE on the other hand is more suited to be stock in my view as it is never going to be aggressive enough for a V8 and would suit normal resto.

I'm with FC-V8, mate they are yours, do with them as you wish. Just like everyone else does with their own.

Cheers
JB
 

Top work there, Deano. I love this storey slowly playing out. It's like a TV series that has flash backs to a previous life!

As for the build, Keep the whole Taxi theme going but chuck in the V8. It will still keep all the charm and nostalgia but have the fun and street cred 'cause we all know this is what you really want  ;)

But remember, It's your car, just do what ya want man.

 8)

Yeah I suppose it would be like a tv series. A hotted up red is another option. It's gotta be loud and make an impression, like " what the" that's some sick old taxi. I don't think I should hop in that. I think it would be cool my friends in the local hot rod club catching my taxi to a show and shine. Tubbed rear with wide steelies or flat chromies. Probaby white like original but 8 inch and body completely original. Interior original. Perhaps a hot six even but I don't think v6 they sound too weird. What about converting the rb30 that i already have. I don't think i can cos later model motors have to keep emissions crap. Could do carby to Nissan patrol specs to get it through vice roads first.

Gees I must have been pissed when i did my last post!

Hi all. I'm actually not dead, although some days I feel like I am with all that's been going on. I have been working on little bits and pieces, but we have built the shed .....ah sorry Wayne, the house....almost! May be ready end of next month....and guess what, no shed! OOOOh dear  :o. It will happen trust me, but considering I only live next door, I will wait til I sell the other house or get a contract on it, then start doing my first shed then. The second big shed can go up after that, hopefully with some proceeds from the sale of the current joint.

This is starting to look like a life blog like some of youze guys, so why should I be any different!  :D

Oh and I keep changing my mind still. My plan is to get some things done that are out of my league when we do move so both cars are away for a month when I build the sheds.

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More pics. When we have moved into the house, I will still have plenty of excuses not to have the cars done. If the sale of the house goes well, a Chevy 210 1957 4 door could be on the cards.....but hasn't been passed with the boss yet  :-\ :-X :P ::)

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Where the truck is parked is where the big shed will be, small one on left of that. See Ive done power there already, 2 more separate long power runs for possible hay shed later and other is in centre of yard, one for small pump shed (see small slab near house) and power to roundabout now too!

Well, thought I would give an update. The new place is coming along. Still no shed, working with council etc. So I have parts all in different spots   :-[. Have done heaps of fencing and gardens etc and will look to getting more done on the car when shed is up. I won't put any pics up until the new sills and floor are done.

I was in the same place mate and my Father-out-law still makes the comment every time he says me. He thinks its a shame I am going V8 instead of grey engine but its mine. Now he says its just a VT Commodore that looks like an FC. I think its an FC with a huge set of balls and good creature comforts featuring drivability that wasnt around 50 years ago...

But has he got one with a grey motor in it? Or one at all? What is he driving?

He has a stock T model NES told me...

Dont upset an old restorer theey are set in their ways.

no matter weather its stock or modified it another oldie on the road.

True,
1927 Model T tourer --- completely stock including timber spoke wheels and a crank start!

Mind you in Brisbane when its 40degrees I am going to be shivering with my new aircon and he will be stuck to his seats..

Still able to make my mind up. Id probably put a chassis kit in regardless while its all apart and do strengthening. Hmmm, these builds are a bloody journey thats for sure.

.

Great comment Pete. Really informative.

I really do see his point though!

A full stop could be some sort of a reference to brakes...  ;D

Was driving up the freeway and got an email  asking to find his old post started writing a comment and bumped . And I must have hit enter or post.
So I thought I would leave it at that keep you all guessing.  ;D

Men & sheds, doesn't matter what size you have its never BIG enough or has enough space to accommodate everything you want in there!!!

To get around the "council rigmarole" of building a house/shed, my old man built his sheds first on the new block whilst the separate application for the house was being finalised.  He actually ended up sleeping in the shed for the last few months whilst the house was being finished.

Hopefully its not too much longer for you and you will have the shed up and back working on the old girl ;)

Just doing boring stuff like building original front end and more blasting

Oye Deano, we want pitchers ;D ;D
   Pedro

U ave 2 go 2 baseball 2 get pitchers, no pitchers ere.. :D :D

I am keeping it original. It's just so rare to have a surviving taxi in such good nic (compared to the Breton Blue FE) that I think I will put the EK grey into her and try to bore it out a bit and do a strong little grey, perhaps with better carburation. I can't wait to track down the kids (now adults) who used to go down the beach in it and Christies (in SA) and show them some pics. Then I will find out some more details, such as whether it was all completely black or whether there were some white outs. Also, other stuff like whether they have some original photos, surely they would given that he used it as a taxi right up to 1970 odd.

I did a bit more on this one today. I must have been a good boy, santa came early to my joint!

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All the above parts were blasted and Epoxy coated.

Hard enough doing 1 car!!! Couldn't do 2 at the same time.

Dont mix em up 350 powered 3sp crash box with a banjo diff. :-X

Ill be quiet now..

I've already done that on the bloody forum threads lol. Today my son is home sick, I've never been so happy to go get my sick kid from school.  :-X so got some more done on the taxi

Did some more today cos my boy came home from school sick. That's my gain  ;). I painted all of the suspension bits their final colour and now ready to assemble the taxi front end.

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Looking good Deano, as JB said we are having enough trouble keeping up with one project, doing two at the same time is mind boggling :o
    Pedro

I actually have 3 on the go, my 1956 austin 7 ton tipper (gvm 12 ton). Doesn't need much work at all though.

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I wanted something very rare and I like trucks.

I started out as a diesel mechanic at 17, but when I was 16 I got lung disease and had 20 percent of each lung removed due to many lung collapses, so I have 20 metal staples in each lung. My nickname at work was "blowout" because putting a gearbox into a transtar truck once, I had a blowout under the truck. You can imagine how a bunch of diesel mechanics thought that was appropriate for an apprentice! They just got to me in time (the ambulance) and they jabbed a big pen type thing into my chest to relieve the air pressure from my heart. Anywho, cut a long story short, I struggled through and finished trade school, but at the time could not continue because I developed "thoraco-scopic pain syndrome" due to all the nerve damage from the many tubes and ops I had in my early years. It can come on at any time but has got better over the years. It still affects me, mainly in cold weather. It's like being stabbed in the chest but around the back. My lungs have basically fused to my chest wall and are one, which makes it uncomfortable bending and laying under cars. Anyone who has had plurisy on the lungs would know what I mean. So I really had no choice but to seek another career, so I ended up doing a Criminology degree whilst staying home with the 2 boys when they were babies and studied nights. So I suppose now that I am feeling the best I have ever in the past year in terms of pain management, I am battling on getting into the resto's again. The wife doesn't like it cos I have run myself pretty hard doing the whole outside of the house since xmas by myself and doing these projects, but I can't sit around feeling miserable. I did that years ago cos of chronic pain, got a bit depressed and stopped doing the things I enjoyed, but I don't want my boys thinking I am a quitter or a looser just sitting around (not that I sat around not being employed, still functioning as a normal person would), so I am on the go all the time again. I try not to take things too serious because my step dad was 42 and I watched him die in front of me very suddenly of a heart attack (he was only 42) with no warning just 4 years before my near death experiences (leaving his only baby child fatherless), so yeah, you can go two ways I guess. I chose doing as much as I can while I can! All the pain drugs I was on post op (I haven't used pain drugs for years as I just have learned to push through pain) have caused my teeth and bones to go funny (brittle, my bones are developing spurs like a 50 year plus bloke) , so I have bloody osteo in my knees, lower back and getting some in my hands I think. I feel like an old man....sorta sucks.

The only thing is I have to make sure I post the right thing on the right thread! At least my boys will have some hand me downs in case I die prematurely  :-[ which is my biggest fear. Feels like my lungs are a time bomb given all the shit they have gone through before adulthood. My one message to people is to NEVER SMOKE IN A CONFINED SPACE WITH YOUR KIDS PRESENT and ALWAYS WEAR A MASK WHEN USING CHEMICALS, PAINT or FINE DUST.

Brilliant outlook, never ever give up your dreams!!!!!!!!!!!!

F@#k me...
I feel lucky after reading that...
I learnt to drive Fire trucks in an old acco so I can relate to it.

I have motor neuron disease in my family as well as Alzheimers so if I can't do it at least i'll forget it.

The Acco I learnt to drive in was an old military one when I was a RAAF fire fighter so it brings back good memories!!!!

Forget what   ??? ??? :P :P The forum might come in handy then  :D :D

Dunno what it was I was supposed to remember.... 8)

Shit Deano :o :o, I never would have guessed with your positive attitude, mate you are an inspiration to all of us who have been struggling with life, if you can get through all that without falling to pieces then we can get through our problems too, I agree totally with the not taking life too seriously bit I've always had that attitude It's just been hard to see lately, as they say laughter is the best medicine, thanks for sharing your story with us and i swear from this day onwards every time i get down i'll think of you and count my blessings for being healthy :) :), love the old Austin she's in bloody good nick for her age, I'm sending you a PM with something that might help with your colour choice.
   Pedro

Theres a tidy "Austin 7 screamer" near work in a shed 1 owner 26 thousand miles
And another one with 15 thousand miles was bought to hold a water tank and pump for fires on the property still original owner and still goes at lovedale NSW imaculate condition .



Pete

Yeah Hoon, they struggled with build quality....apparently, but they seem to go ok compared to these Holden, so perhaps cos they were Pommy they got a bit better rust and paint treatment. Working in mud and all sorts of crap! Most stored in barns with dirt floors too. Funny how I hate most Austins, but I love the look of these trucks side on. I love the vaccum split diff it has to make it 8 speed, this is a 4 speeder GB, The grain bin is way above average and the tray is drop sided, what more could ya want in a farm truck. Hardly any rips in seats. I am encouraged that it is still registered too so no bullshit with inspections etc just a straight changeover to me and Dad joint names, so its garaged at his address  :-X....hum hum, but I have property in bush and am "working on the tipper mechanism for Dad so he can take it in the classic Adelaide officer".  8) ;D

Not able to do much ATM.

Inner sills arrived today, even though the floors are pretty good, there's too much risk of fine pin holes developing, So it will be a matter of trying to save as much NOS sills to be same both sides if I can, if I cant both inners and outers will be replaced. I think just the front and rear of inners will need doing but full outers. Also, I got the four new floor pans for it ready to go and I found 2 spare cross members  ??? when sorting more stuff out, in a tool box of all places, so will begin taking more off in the coming weeks and look into doing a dodgy rotisserie.

May be interesting to some people, a pic showing the difference btw a standard spring height and 1 inch lowered, quite fascinating really - its one inch lower  :D  :P

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Getting some other bits together, will start working on the worst guard, the other guard I am hunting around for!  ??? I can't remember if it is blasted yet or not, I found the other 2 blue ones in Mum's shed  :) Hmmmm :)

Hope you get to live your dream for a long time to come dean.
Brett

Glad you told me that Deano i never would have picked it ;) ;D ;D, is it my imagination or is that new spring slightly narrower too.
    Pedro
p.s. notice my restraint on commenting about your pink bits :-X :-X :D

Thanks guys  :'( I hope to have the peak finished by next week.

I've decided to run a weber 32/36 carb on a new sonic manifold which I just bought to work out how I'm gunna match port the heads a bit. Might run a pressure feed regulator later on to assist with fuel delivery

Hi Yall.

Today was a day of sorting and cleaning. It's funny cos the day started out in town at the hardware store. I have got to know this young sheila and have been intrigued by her knowledge of paint systems and many other hardware knowledge. I just assumed that she was really into her job or the Mitre 10 training is bloody good.  ??? Anyway for some reason today we got talking about different types of acid. Then I just happened to mention that I am making up my own hot tank boiler and using old skool methods of engine block conditioning and that I am trying to do everything with period methods like the original owner would have. I explained to her about the taxi and how the original bloke was from the country like we are and she was keen to know all methods going into the initial engine building stage. She piped up that she actually has a chemical science degree and she doesn't want to move to the shitty, so she cant use her degree. She not only has a degree, but she has done honours and guess what in  ??? ::)  Rust removal techniques!  :o which surprised me. Anyway I explained to her how I was going to go about desludging the EJ block I have here. Given that I don't wanna use a commercial hot tank and I wanna do it better than that for the internals, we came up with a method we both agreed on that is using all natural edible producted but will be a staged thing and will take a month. Some ingredients I haven't used before are lemons, potatoes and flour slurry. The flour will be a key element in this weirdo paint stripper mix she told me to try. Anyway I wont give away all the secrets, but she has given me a system to try which should enhance my already enviro-friendly methods I have adopted in the past. So I got to pressure cleaning and stuff. Having a shed is sooo over rated .... :-\. I mean I had great fun in the sun and the mud as any machine operator would. I recommend using an old bread delivery crate for pressure cleaning as a base, works a treat.

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The missus is over the moon that she can now oversee the whole build from the kitchen  ::) :D and there is no room to use the alfresco anymore that she has looked forward to for many years. She hasn't seen me paint in there, but cos I brush off the over spray before she sees it, it's all as harmonious as it can be under the circumstances  ;D

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Some pics I took the other day!  ;D ;)

I cant really walk into the garden shed anymore cos I have restored parts everywhere all in epoxy. Sometimes I think I am seeing double, but then I think how stupid I am to do 2 cars at once....with no real setup to do so.  :-[ :'( :P :P :P

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Anywho I then started thinking of the flushing method for the block and rigged up a 25mm fitting to an big ass Ebara Pump, putting out 70psi head pressure and 170lpm flow (fills a 9ltr bucket in 3.5 s.

Haven't been able to juggle everything that's happening atm.

There is evidence of the original owner putting oil underneath where oil shouldn't be for rust prevention I'm guessing. Old skool country methods of making things rust proof. He was from Broken Hill a real bushwhacker and did all his own painting on the cars. The old lady said the company complained cos he dug his heels in and wouldn't use their painter. She said he was a bit of a scally wag! I love yarns with old Sheilas.

Here is the neighbor of Stephen. She is the one who gave me all the info.

https://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=3+williams+road+hackham+west&layer=c&sll=-35.147078,138.520264&cbp=13,296.07,,0,11.19&cbll=-35.147164,138.520527&hl=en&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=3+Williams+Ave,+Hackham+West+South+Australia+5163&ll=-35.147082,138.520517&spn=0.007062,0.016512&t=h&z=17&vpsrc=0&panoid=RR-LKd3ZMFRnBPMnbVzzTQ

This was Stephens House, see the design with the double driveway, also see how the drive goes right up to the verandah. I can imagine him with a beer and working on the ole FC  :'( :'( :'(

https://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=3+williams+road+hackham+west&layer=c&sll=-35.147078,138.520264&cbp=13,353.65,,0,6.23&cbll=-35.14744,138.520252&hl=en&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=3+Williams+Ave,+Hackham+West+South+Australia+5163&ll=-35.147433,138.52041&spn=0.007062,0.016512&t=h&z=17&vpsrc=0&panoid=zMOm5TcPO6w0xPKsdFop2Q

There was second house the owner built up the street, probably where the taxi was stored.

I did a quick bore hone on the Ek grey today and started measuring it up to see what I am working with.  Number 6 is 0.046 but the rest are under 40tho, so looks like ill have no choice but to go a 60tho overbore. That's ok, cos I have an idea for some modern pistons out of a turbo high performance car (not telling took me ages to find), but I am doing more research on the rods first before selecting a piston outright. If I can't find rods stronger rods (standards will be fine with this piston) with the right length to suit these pistons, I will use Holden ones and cap them.  I have in mind have the swirl cut edged pistons for better cylinder swirl and are deeper turbo dish which should give a 7.9 compression if I use larger valves without any chance of them hitting. Very light and only need to take half a mm off the rods I have in mind (honda) to fit the standard journal. Looks to me like the guys who did the previous orginal oversize build just whacked in oversided pistons with extra clearance or it has just been back yard re ringed at some stage  :D

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I would like to get my hands on this, its down the back paddock and the owner has heaps of old stuff back there,these are my 2 faves
1934ish McCormick tractor (probably made in Melbourne by inters) and a Chevrolet 1941 pickup (probably made at holden).

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Today our garnet industrial blaster guy closed shop, so I took the guards there and he did a good job on the guards and now we have nobody.....not yet to do any blasting  :'(

Anyway he did mine as the last 3 items so I had to paint them myself, so Just finished all the inners and Ill do the outers later. One of the taxi guards is quite bad, I would think worse than average. The other is more ribbed and rippled than a fancy glow in the dark condom, where all the bog was. Funny how the FE has a terrible body/frame yet the panels are much better and the taxi has terrible bolt on bits. But being a taxi, it probably had lots of little tidy ups and bog over bog etc.


Oh also I got a little present today  ;D ;D ;D

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Nice pressie.

Regards

Wayne b

yeah, i bought it for myself, does that count  :P

Yep   ;)

Nice prezzy there Deano, should make the old girl run sweet, the guard looks like a bit of work though.
  Pedro

I did a lot more stripping and priming today. All the little bits and pieces like the front supports, various rods and front apron, a heap of stuff bare metaled and etched.

Today I felt creative. I have never been so enthusiastic to stay home with the kids during school holidays  :D

I'm doing a bit of a head job on the spare head I have. I am doing some custom work to it so I can compare torque figures at a later date.

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Nice bit of polishing Deano. 8)
  Pedro

Yeah, nothing too drastic, just trying to get a bit of swirl and vacuum to the off side of the inlet from the bowl to aid cylinder filling. I want torque so I will put a bit more lift on the exhaust side and keep inlet fairly standard. I will polish the exhaust port, the manifold is already match ported and I deburred and removed the casting inlets and began shaping an polishing it too. The taxi head will be bog stock. If its in good nick all it will get it a decoke and then stored. Depends on what valves look like.

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Im building a manifold at work all sheet alloy for a supercharger on a 186 for a mate. ill post some pics soon.

That would be good. Hey do you know when it come to engineering certificates and they check all the specs on the car, next time you talk to your engineer can you ask him if say he passes a 327, can they approve it with a supercharger despite it not being fitted to the car if all the mods are up to scratch.

I think its to the discretion of each engineer but i think you will be pushing the friendship with a blower.

Starting on the new shed.

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Other stuff I am doing, sourcing 179 valves for the grey, putting in new steel guides then bronze inserts (if I can bash old ones out, old ones are badly pitted, never seen that b4 on a holden 6), doing some mild port work (myself), getting valve seats cut to fit the valves at home, cos I want a 3 angle cut and some good valve seats. Don't wanna go too big with valves as I want good throttle response and torque. I have started restoring some of the chrome bits n pieces. I am starting with the front lights on both cars. Its coming to an interesting time now and will be even better when I have the sheds up, then lookout.

Pad for the projects  :D
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Stayed up til 2 in the morning making copper sulphate so i could strike some onto the parts that took my fancy to restore. The ring around the dash speedo is terrible quality on mine from factory, has many deep lines and not sure if all the same but the turn lights need to be built up on one side to make the tear drop at the top look straight. I am starting to restore the cool taxi meter handle which will probably be gold plated, but I will have to get some old computer mother boards at the tip and extract some gold for the plating, I would like pure gold not the shitty solution rubbish.

Will use premium grade copper as in pic to strike a base for the solder. These parts have pits over 1mm in places, but I wanna do it properly so the solder doesnt lift later.
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Ill colour match the dash paint against gold to see if I like the combo, hence why I have started the etching process for the big knob bit on the taxi meter lever and I will use that to sample as I keep plating it to see what strength solution I will need to give the best gold shade, otherwise I could go plain old chrome.

Gold plating :o, you robbed a bank recently Deano ;) ;D
  Pedro

I live near the goldfields mate. Na ill do the plating myself, make gold ions from a ring that hopefully someone won't miss.

Nice knowing you Deano :'(:P;D

Been jewellery hunting with no luck  :-[ ::) ??? BUT I have another idea  ;D ;D ;D

Been very happy with how things are turning out and enjoying the things I am currently working on. Giving body work a rest until shed is up, but in planning mode and sorting things that need resto, from things that just need a polish, unfortunately the latter will be few and far between.

My "experimental" head will be flowed on a bench to see how it compares to a more radical and stock head. I have the new guides, seats and angles cuts and larger valves with smaller thickness stems all sorted, Just gotta do some minor work on the runner roofs of the intakes - match ported. Thinking of using 90 pound pressure springs and sorting a happy medium rocker setup. I don't want too much ramp on the flat tappet cam setup so might go for extra lift with 1.6 ratio. I am trying to get some initial vacuum so that when the cylinder fills, it will do it quicker with some good initial lift. Exhausts on the siamese will get some work but the other ex port runners look a lot better so just deburring will be done. Has anyone used 1.6 ratio without using rollers. I am not a fan of roller rockers on engines revving under 5500 so I guess I would like to get say .3 extra lift from .48-.49 static lobe life from a 1.6 ratio rocker rather than too much ramp on the lobe/lifters? This is a custom design working off purely my own ideas, i have tried listening to others with other head work in the past and I think I trust myself now that I am older and wiser to get what I am after out of this engine makeover. Also, because I was going to go for more exhaust duration I was toying with the idea of changing the crank angles and dynamic compression by using different rods and pistons.

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Going to experiment with some interesting setups.

Don't know how you keep up with all these separate jobs on two rebuilds Deano i get lost trying to keep up ???
  Pedro

Today I started the tedious job of de-burring the head and removing the casting marks and roughs. Kinda brain numbing, so I liked it cos my brain was full of shed planning stuff, but now the new slab pad resembles a swimming pool. I don't mind that though, better than it being dry like it usually is here. I also started restoring some other parts that I pulled out of my rust solution and buffed them up. See the taxi accelerator, its just hanging in there, lots of daylight. Are there replacements or do most guys just repair theirs? It has been repaired before  :P

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You can brand new accelerators off rares.

Wheres the fun in that LOL. Thanks. Is it worth doing the original for originality sake for the taxi? Ill just use the best one perhaps.

Cleaned up the head a bit more this morning. I hand filed all of the head bolt flanges so they are the same (old skool like back in the 50's) and all the other mating surfaces. Started getting rid of dags inside the runners, got 10 thou off the head face.

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Here are two of my worst brake drums that I put in my whacky backyard solution. Originally they were black painted but there was no way of telling b4 hand, they came out with completely blackened potatoes and black converted rust. I just bring the parts inside into the sink and use a nail brush to wash em down (No smell). I mix a cup of vinegar in the water to rinse them, then If there is any paint left it just comes off with a coarse scotch bright. No real scrubbing and I use my bare hands to pull them out of my tank. Then after a few solutions I put the solution on the plants. So that they dont rust, I pre heat the oven and heat them up quickly, take em out and when still warm hit em some paint. Rinse vinegar off to do this, the vinegar doesn't get rid of the rust cos that is non existent, the vinegar eats up the paint after sitting in it for a few minutes, but it's pre loosened.

I don't like getting everything grit blasted, it gives surfaces a very rough look and creates more work than its good for for the wrong part.

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but before doing this, try to explain to the missus the benefits of using her oven for the environment or some crap because there is nothing worse than accidentally leaving a pile of brake drums in the oven and trying to explain why they are there.  :-\ :o ::)

Are these the FE/FC ones? I seem to have brake drums coming out of my ears  ??? ??? ???

what de-rusting solution do you use? a mild acid of some sort? 

your parts are really clean... interesting stuff going on.

Cheers

Ed

Hes a cocky farmer ED so im guessing melasis....

Molasses is great, use 10:1 ratio and leave in a hot shed or in the sun to speed up the process. When you remove it, it'll rust really quick so whack on the primer!

When using molasses it is best to remove your item at regular intervals as a sugary coating can build up on the surface and slow or stop the process.If a large amount of rust is to be removed then remove the item weekly and rinse it with water and put it back in.

I am no bloody farmer, don't insult me like that, how boring  :o :P :-X

I am also not a chemist, I have just got small items that are soiled or rusted and tried many formulas in small containers to see which ones are best for what. It's not really rocket science at all. I prefer to use things that I can use around my acreage rather than acids. Why not kill weeds or fertilise plants after! If you tell the missus this, she will also encourage you to de rust and everyone is a winner (if she likes the gardening).

I use a combination of different things depending on what I think it needs, I have a good Electrolysis mix I use which requires no gloves and its a bit different to other methods, then I have my potato solutions and pastes, then I also have my boonie paint stripper which also requires no gloves.

By far the best method I have found to remove rust is electrolysis with salt and oxygenates. Potassium Hydroxide would be my next step up the chain, using cheap Scott's brand fertiliser (starter mix better cos disolves easier) with the highest concentrate of Potassium Phosphate you can find on the label (you don't need a lot but if u use a lot wear gloves and face mask), I usually use some white vinegar (not much) in this mix then it also eats rust slowly and gently and I leave it in as long as the item needs (always depends on soiling). Don't do this inside anywhere always outside cos this shit gives off shitty fumes. ALWAYS add salt to any rust solution as it helps acids chemically lift the scale (even alkalines). Molasses is also ok, but as HSV rightly pointed out, ppl often make the mistake of putting too much in or not mixing it in properly, it works better with air agitation and as hoon said warm works faster. For people who don't have enough room for tanks in the city, I have tried (years ago when I was in a unit and still do sometimes) making up fairly strong natural mixes such as the alkaline's I have already mentioned (except vinegar which is acid) and making up a flour batter type mixture, but use baking soda and salts more vigourously with them in the mix and pasting it on with a paint brush. Then wrap items with cling wrap cos it will stop it evaporating or spray with that "spray cook" shit to keep the moisture in. You should always pour boiling water over anything prior to cleaning if you are decreasing cos this loosens it, best with a kettle.  A good mix for acids that occur naturally in home products seem to be a cup of vinegar (per 2 lites of water), some concentrated citrus or lemon (shower power works great cos its a citrus cleaner), add a bit of salt and a few tablespoons of the cheapest washing powder you can find. Have u ever noticed when you use rust converters and shit, that the quick on the edges of your fingers gets a slight sting, well if you use a blender to make up a potato syrup, after you pour it out, it will feel the same on your fingers. This is the Oxalic acid  :o, an active ingredient in rust converters. So as with any of my solutions, I always add a few potatoes.

Also, when you are having tea and doing active projects, always tell the missus that you are really hungry and want extra mashed potatoes. Then offer to scape all the plates off because don't waste your mashed potatoes. Put them in a mixing bowl, add more salt, white vinegar (half cup per mixing bowl full) and some shower power, then add a bit of water so it will still be a thick enough mixture like say a mortar mix. Grab anything such as manifolds or anything hollow or hard to reach areas like in your manifold crevices (don't use on alloy), pour a kettle full of hot water into the runners etc then pack it with ya potato mix. Leave it there as long as you like, usually I just leave it for a week. Freeze your leftover mix and reuse again if there are big layers of rust the following week)  ;) Bring ya manifolds or tube things in and give them a wash in washing powder and then rinse them in a tablespoon of baking soda and you will have the cleanest runners.

Although I haven't used it so far in this build (cos I am not in a rush), we used to use caustic (sodium hydroxide) in the bath at International trucks when I was doing my apprenticeship, to remove oil and diesel from stuff, but that's not an acid. It does bugger all for rust though. That's the problem with hot tanks in engine shops, they don't do much except clean (without electrolysis). Drain cleaners usually are readily available as a substitute but you should always add slowly to water, not the other way around and always wear a face mast so u don't end up getting skin burns.

Today I begrudgingly pulled out my sand baster and made a big mess using that, this was due to the stupid accelerator and the circles in the head near the guides being full of crap. I had some other things to do though not related to the build that I didn't want to pull off the excavator bucket. I really use sand blasting last because its quite a harsh finish and I just think it rapes more delicate surfaces. If I decide to resore, I want to restore thinking I am leaving enough metal for the next poor idiot who does the same  :D :D :D

Sorry, it was you who said about heating it up. Ive found that 8 to 1 is better in colder months.

Mixing in some epsom salts will assist with this as its helps the molecules and hydrogen lift for the surface, as will a few tablespoons per 10 litres of water, also a cheap fish pond air circulator at the bottom of the mix works wonders for a bit of agitation.

Well while on the subject here are some things I have been doing. Today I did some blasting behind the chrome bits in hard to reach places and freed up a ton of carbon from the flaps in the manifolds, I also gave that accelerator a blast, not much left, is it normal for the surfaces to nearly be worn right through?

The bumpers are not much chop. I think I will bend up some anodes, dig 4 trenches with the excavator, line them with plastic and electrolysis these bastards with some pure sulphuric acid. That will fix these bastards. They are some of the worst I have seen, dings and rust everywhere.

Ill find a spot in the paddock where there is gunna be no sheep or animals and get the trenches lines with casting type sand, mux in a bit of mortar, press in the bumpers to make a mould and later this will my boonie electrolysis tanks for my plating  ;D ;D ;D

Then at the end if my rooster doesnt stop crowing at bloody 4.30am, he might be getting a dip in something too  :D :D :D (just kidding....sorta). It's a pity that roosters have no useful ingredients for doing a resto.....perhaps Pete could use him as an alarm clock, he gets up at 4.30  ::) ::) ::)

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Getting sick of this rusty stuff

OK, last night before bed I whipped up a batter mix with vinegar, but didnt have any mashed potato left to mix in (always use ya mash in anything remember). So cos I was up at 6 getting it off it didnt have much time, usually you would double the time with interior parts like this because the paint isnt weathered as much and people dont polish their dashes with grit like the outside so often paint is thicker. I also forgot to say that by adding half a cup of shower power will. If you scour the surface this helps with penetration.

The reason I am showing you this guys is because I like to be able to be inside, especially when cold, get my slurry out of the freezer, and while the adds come on tv you just paste up a few parts, no smell, no chemicals, just easy peasy and you can still be with the kids and stuff and its effortless. So as with any paint stripper, it will usually do a layer of paint at a time and the old paints they used to use are much harder to remove than modern paints.

Here tis after not that many hours really. These methods are great to do through the week for guys that work to keep the project moving and do a few layer each night. If u dont think about it or care, it is so mild that you can leave it 2 days, but generally 24 hours removes layers easily.

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The black is the rust converting after only a short time and then I finally remembered I should take a pic to show u I suppose.

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You can double or triple the strength but i dont see why its necessary really, and I know people will say there are quicker ways but thats not the point of these posts.

Deano,

I'm impressed by your "bush chemistry"... Please don't take the term as an insult, rather with respect.

You've made up some great pH neutral stripper and cleaners from everyday household items... I think you've missed your calling as an industrial chemist!

thanks for sharing that info.. I'm enjoying it  :) :)

Just yesterday I was enquiring about a parts cleaner which uses "safe" solvents.. looks like the best stuff is just under our noses.  I really like how you use natural food acids.

Cheers

Ed

I Hope i never get on the wrong side of deano he might smear my car in mash potato mix :D

Pete there will be more boonie but practical methods coming up next week. But the shed is my priority atm. My dad has been a French polisher all his life so that helps with this stuff. Just a note on parts washers, the idiots sell tin ones to u then use citricacid solutions which rust them out. If you gunna be using citric, which is basically shower power, get a plastic one with plastic fittings. I was thinking of doing a paddock pit for trucks etc, I should do this and dig it a bit bigger and put the car in it, lift her in with the excavator and do electrolysis. Hire a jetfire blower to dry her off after rinsing with soap and bicarb then use a bloody airless roof paint spray gun to douse her in undercoat.

Ok ED, here is another setup for the budget conscious. You just buy long this pots plant pots of different shapes with baskets at the bottom. The plastic drain thingy's help separate anodes/cathodes etc from touching.

Forgot to say, notice I have an anode in the hard to reach spots, well if u think of the anodes as magnets, put them opposing where the most rust is. I can put them suspended down the holes of the manifold to do inside as well, all u do is silastic the tips of the anodes, leave the bottom say 2 cm exposed and slide a tube over the top of the round pipe anode and it will get right inside things, but I prefer packing it with my mashed potatoes cos if it shorts out u can melt the wires and start a fire thats all (if your fuse is rated too high). I am not going to tell anyone how to use chemicals or do electroplating itself cos I think that it would be irresponsible as I have no means of knowing who I am talking to and how old they are so pls dont ask me about this as I won't say it online. Same as wiring your house, I would not give advice as to how to wire a house for instance. But since these are all at home I figure I can.

Feel like I am going to kill over, have been so busy, but slab is down, have been cleaning stuff still and organising stuff for the new shed. BUT bloody weather is going to be severe so look like it will be longer for the concrete to cure, cold wet  >:(

Anywho its a bloody tough slab. at one end the trenches are 500mm wide, and its 500mm all way round deep and one at the other end across cos thats where a future hoist could go and my truck will be fixed in there.

Ill put electrolysis through that manifold over night to show the result, I pre soaked it in shower power first, basically the middle was full of carbon and weird smelling crap.

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Yeah Slab down!!

Cool paint removal stuff mate

Slab looks great, there are also two good reasons you should appreciate the "cold and wet" after you pour your slab.
1)  it slows the chemical reaction as your concrete goes off which in turn reduces the heat created by that reaction which in turn adds to the final compressive strength.
2) easy to find "bird baths" for everyone to see ;)

Gary

Thanks again for taking the time Deano to show us your techniques in electrolysis.

much appreciated, and very interesting.

Nice slab you have there.. so much space!

Cheers

Ed

Well, u know how it is, you start off just cleaning up something here and there, (idea was to de-burr the casting inlets only) then ya just go psycho and spend far too much time getting carried away and then before you know it there is no turning back! It looks pretty good though I must admit, a fair way to go to get it perfect and anodized. Already done a lot of flanger and filing work. I might try to go a bit greyer dan dis cool drinky bottle and use finer sparkly bits and it should look shit hot. The sparkly bits are not so dramatic to the naked eye.

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Holy crap that looks good  :)

Looks even better now its nearly finished.

I decided it was getting below zero here and water temps are very cold so I desludged the spare engine block and did some liquid rust converting, see how the potatoes look like they have sucked all the converted rust into them, now I will put the motor into the bumper tank as well. Its a nice looking block actually. I also repaired my buggy today cos I smashed the guard up a bit the other day.

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That manifold came up great Deano, I've got plenty of stuff that needs polishing here i can send down if you're getting bored  ;)
   Pedro

Today I excavated out crappy soil around the shed, after I will put in good soil, then put shed up.

ahhh HYDROGEN GAS........... :o ......the smell of progress  ;)

Just got it going. Finally. Had a birthday part for the young bloke with 9 boys sleeping over  :P. Felt worse than a hangover.

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Really good stuff mate I like reading this thread

Thanks NES, I like reading your stuff too. Tonight I stripped the old rusty guard peak thingy and got some undercoat on it. It was very badly rusted, was obviously a rust repair section not used in the 80's when the first guy intended to restore the taxi.

Well I felt like getting dirty so did the final stage of the block,de-rusting and scaling and final flush. As my mate says "COUPLA DAYS........COUPLA DAY.....MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM......BEWDIFUL :-* :-* :-*

A few final days in electrolysis and a quick flush saw clean water flowing like a garden feature ornament. If it is not clean enough to put a glass under it and drink it, then I am not happy  :P

I didn't bother stripping the paint all off because I plan to do more work with the block which will knock off all visible outside paint.

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Oh another thing the old fella told me was to leave as many bearing shells in as possible to protect the metal where the bearing seats. I think he was a bit pedantic but he reckoned that when the shells were in the hot tank, the most worn ones would be directly identified proportionally to the amount that the caustic solution would eat them away (ie etching), assisting to determine where the stresses were or lack of oil flow or whatever to the engine as good bearings have a protective coating that does not allow etching to the same degree. It sort of makes sense. That's why if you were doing these all the time, a pattern could emerge that say perhaps the rear cam bearing wears the most or second main bearing suffers from oil starvation etc. Another thing I hear people on here talk about is "opening up the oil galleries", however this effects the whole pressure of the oil system, less pressure in the galleries result unless you upgrade the oil pump proportionally. I remember we used to have plenty of anecdotal evidence of engines in truck repair land so if there was a problem with oil not reaching an area the opposite was in fact done, instead of making an oil outlet bigger at the exit end, we would put in a kind of insert sometimes with a squirter to get the oil to where it was needed (I wish I took more notice of this as a dumb ass apprentice).

I would assume that high volume is only that 'til the first restriction then high pressure, then low volume and pressure on the other side. Too much clearance or flow, less pressure.

Frame will be completed tomoz.
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oooooh.  8)

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Sheds nearly done. Ive nearly got my back right with plenty of rest. Good spraying weather soon, look out!  ;)

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Nice one Deano, I see it's finally stopped raining now it's up. lol
   Pedro

I have been doing some rust converting and found that the 2 springs that came out of solution today are in very good original condition with original leaf spacers, so ill buff them off and soak em in some oil then pain them ready for the taxi. Ill try use as many original parts as i can for that one.
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Hey fellas just an update on my own restoration, I think some of you know that I have had a rough trot when i was a kid with the lungs etc, well I started fainting and carrying on recently causing me to knock myself out a few times. Anyway, went to a cardiologist in Radelaide last week. After many tests and 24 hour monitors, it was found that I have right "Vagus Nerve" damage caused most likely when I was a teenager during my lung reduction surgeries for the emphysema. So basically my hearts accellerator gets stuck, either too slow, like 37-47 beats, or too fast, it also controls bladder and many other functions. So I am now medicated and they finally got the bp (boost pressure Pete) under control, but the bloody hear rate still slips into the low forties high 30's at night and skips beats etc. Anyway, at least now with my heart monitor at home I can control it. Basically everytime i stand my heart rate goes up 30 to 60 beats. I'm hoping to get back into things soon, but I have only been on the heart nerve meds for 6 days. I tried doing more body work last week but after 15 minutes I was back bed with heart ahrythmias.

Sincerely hope the meds do the trick & you can enjoy Christmas to the fullest with the kids.

We miss you on here Deano. Hopefully the science can fix all the bad stuff. I consider myself very lucky, hopefully you can say the same in the near future.
 
Take it easy mate.


Regards

Wayne b

All the best Deano, rest up and look after yourself. Let the mess kick in and you'll be back at it before you know it. You might be onto something with your comment about working on these old cars, I'm in for a hernia op. On the 18th and will be down for 4-6 weeks there goes the plans for the break.
Regards, Jim

Ok guys. I have sustained some electrical heart damage (or some fancy word) but im on a good treatment regime and although im never going to quite be the same, I am going to be back online annoying everyone again!

Glad your back. Sounds positive about the body.


Regards Wayne b

Good to hear you are on the mend, as I said before take it easy. Better to finish later than not at all.
Jim

c'mon Deano.
Back at it brother...
 So how did the refurb the vagus??? Did you get a warranty??

Lol. I don't want to bore everyone but finally found out I have a collagen stuff up in my body due to a faulty gene that's causing all these physical woes. So my veins are weaker and stretchy and my back is fusing together, ligaments in spine and other places are turning to bone etc. It's called "Ehlers danlos syndrome".

Getting back into the car now cos the meds are working pretty good. Just found out recently that the kids have this thing but its not the vagus nerve after all its a systemic connective tissue problem. It is causing my mind to race a bit (the meds are pretty potent).

That's a tough year.
All the best for some clear sailing from here on.

Bloody oath. At least we are working this shit out.

Did some blasting and priming of steering box, shocks (will refurbish) and the diff is blasted. I'll change to more of a highway ratio but it needs to have been an option. can anyone tell me what options were available and which ratios were options on an fc.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/e507d524cfef68298a59092ebf8e3f5d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/05bc2ec6f4accf50bcb07f2a1b103197.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/5a7623fe9549fce686d19fbae56b1a0c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/b84653c637143bd0e335103a11ebeb34.jpg)

There is no option for FC. Street ratio was the same as highway ratio which was the same as race ratio.
No other ratios existed until EH.
Ken

Thanks Ken. So to have the taxi original it looks like it will only get a kit. Is it better for durability to use any other makes for internals. Is there any info I should know or is the manual pretty right.

Unless you are going to get the diff rebuilt professionally, then just get a good diff with no noise and use it. There are no real problems with grey diffs so finding a good one is not hard.
There are special tools required to set up a rebuilt diff correctly.

Ken

I will have both cos the fe is getting a later diff so I reckon the fe one would be better given the other was a taxi. But sometimes these things surprise us.

So if your set on using the original diff then your going to have to look to aspect ratio on tyre choice .I think that there is more choice now than there was 30 years ago, but some of my mates turned to light truck to get more height. Seen a set of 185/80 -13 on an EH at a swap a few months back but they were white walls .Not something you would find on a taxi . Haydn

I'm not sure if I'm following. I'll just be running standard fc wheels. I will just buy normal tyres probably from somewhere like olddchool tyres but cos I'm doing 2 cars and a truck at the same time I got plenty time to think about it 😉

Did some more painting. The diff, column, shocks, steering box and backing plates came up great. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/96a2a2b6dfa80b4737b9d6e505f5059e.jpg)

Found this Beaurepairs at 145-149 Gouger Street. I think it's the one. 5 bays and the end is same bricks.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/357fd2229cef88cddcd1be41ff9f1e94.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/28997fde1333cb3c345b1e07fa6c42c7.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/6798288c131ec256b91983aeadfae4ec.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/c9a2dbe8fd593c087b1d3a8c7379e959.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/9259dbff47e4b67598b7e19e3bd4df9f.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/f4f5567f088d190a0b41e229b1720d25.jpg) (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/fb781d7df7200d440c51ccea4d3de143.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/84ebb1b2be27b7c9349160f29e9abc1e.jpg)(http://[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/b790612f327c9e7ab73ae2c079404eea.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/eaa0663f77982d182fbbaf40ad579ad1.jpg)

It has a very wide driveway like the original. I'm thinking of ringing the businesses and see if any of the owners are in the same family for number 149. As you can see, the house was converted on the side street. So got me thinking how I could further confirm things so I found a death notice from late 40's indicating the house owner died. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/2079a31a1b9167b3af7adfd4099f011e.jpg)

If you look at the roof line it correlates with the more solid looking structure on the right too. Would have been a good setup for drivers etc. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/88cf1381ba42c935743644b5129b1fdf.jpg)

I don't think the Google street view is in proportion and hence the joints.

Other interesting things I found along the way below. So it looks like there were 20 extra licences given as part of a RS scheme and he was 1 of them. It looks like he had 3 or four and that's why he rented a space around Magill way. He had numerous properties he owned too. As the co-operative business grew, they got their own base. The pile in the background is the houses that were demolished and later after a big road widening program, more lanes were added and old people died and houses in this rapidly growing industrial area were sold or rented for businesses.  There was evidence of these areas being run down in the wording of the addresses. The numbers were all changed too.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/c88e0a28dbbb739f83513867c15e36ba.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/1a1b3577dbec654c84df94d1970f1d53.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/3a4d263960eacc9e506acf1c273deb5e.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/398735a7a80221bdd8a7f1734ccaf95b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/a60ab91ebb51776eac72553b1a7142f3.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/3155dc179e01680b49b3e297688a0eb0.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/43c2371622093430de1538af277657f9.jpg)(http://[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/58b827eabbb03e30c264a371fa95755a.jpg)

The info that i have left here that I won't post mentions that he worked just the Adelaide city. It appears that this was a strict enforcement rule taken seriously by the governing body.

Ok fellas. Looked him up this morning. You can produce these cool certificates online of people in major wars. This is him cos that's his wife's name. This shows he was in the war twice. He was a goer this bloke. These records are just to people on the right track but two dates of birth exist. So he was eligible for the scheme for sure. So when your doing research, it's joining dots that leads you to the next thing. With this I can now find his wife's maiden. There's only a few years window anyway due to age. Knowing her maiden name will be handy.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/b7930b4b18b5fd19d291f3f7ee736b13.jpg)[IMG]

Also I found Laurels degree completion record, November 1941, from which states that she graduated from the University of Adelaide with a History degree and this gave her full name as "Laurel Iris Miller".

The actual taxi cooperative formed in 1950, so that's verified by articles.

Here's the HD numbers. I'm not too interested in this car but the numbers may be of use to someone else? Ken? (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/63d25dd6e930edd16ae61ed194bd6916.jpg)
And his FJ.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/e3ec27662a6a28037f256ba46b416d5b.jpg)

My attention now turns to finding more info about these cars I know about and working out why on the rego and insurance docs the FC is listed as a 1959? Also the latest date to prove its commercial use as a taxi is 1965. I have an insurance doc for the Fj proving it was still his in 1966, the same year he bought the new HD. I'm assuming the last rego was 1973. For the sake of preserving some history, this sticker that I found under the mat when I stripped the car will be reproduced when I get around to it.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/b61289f4f4697e3d53997527407f824d.jpg)

The final bit of interesting information is that most adverts stressed preference for the newest vehicle possible. Given that there were only 20 licences given out to returned servicemen, companies already had many, but you had to be new to the business (in theory) and the adverts selling them are all rather private. However the penalties for breaching these 20 were harsh and various litigations occurred (by the state)  showing that it wasnt taken lightly by police and magistrates, who called blokes who did this "despicable" and of the lowest character to pose as an ex serviceman when they weren't. So it appears that he likely obtained the rare "b grade taxi licence" which was city restricted during the timeframe correlating with the article. I still believe the 1956 FJ of his was the family car but it could have been a taxi too. I would say it was early on because the act of parliament changed in 1956 to make it necessary for tighter control of licences to clean up the industry and I would suspect was used to ensure returned serviceman (especially injured blokes) got work. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/74c9e800dd591dd264381ce6b52e87a8.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/be95347f2c662ca32ae4964d52b97309.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/04e36449133636c9e6d7f3b4442e5212.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/21/6f6517b18de6122a740c9b0db829676f.jpg)

Found this amongst parts last night. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/710553a7a8f0ff74e49e340bbd85afad.jpg)

Confirmed today it did have the holes for behind the c pillar trim extension. I noticed that the sway bar had the hole right through to the engine bay which is unusual.

Last night I found a chrome extension which slides over the 3 fins I have. So I'm after a left fin entension which are very thin. I will need some of those slide in bolt clips. I think someone said that they are available new. So this completely verifies that the car is a late 59.

Ok, today I brough the engine home from storage offsite. I took a pic of the extension I need too. Also I just cleaned up the gearbox and head a bit and the build date for the gearbox is 16/12/1959. The cylinder head date is 18/12/1959. Good to have a few more original parts than expected. I think I will preserve these items as they are and use the motor and gearbox from the FE in this one.
 (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/bee86d61b7c42d1b2ddb344fcb1dd317.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/361f138a4c983ba7b7684b0ef496958d.jpg)

Started chipping away at areas to assess and I've started the repair on the front left corner. Pretty sad but the other side doesn't need much work. The engine has probably done a ton of Kays.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/a845dd6a148f9fae5ec8c0ed46c5f923.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/2783ce98b19a12e384e3fddd6c4e1fa5.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/2571149cf94e200512a0f67547434f16.jpg)

Ok some more pics that are pretty self explanatory. I should get some time coming up to work on this more........hopefully.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/0a63cdf6e7d3b59ae57703086af839e2.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/0652334e598306d1bab9a68cfc56d0f1.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/85ee100d90a71c69f5b14ff474271447.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/1662bef4716f46368e23f05b4625f06b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/ad0ddb8bc84e50d7ffa065ff0fae31fd.jpg)

Ok got the car home. Looks like a 50's garage.  Taking out the outer sills and setting up for another round of blasting. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/f342f5ceef90dd12209e1d8a92d8ddda.jpg)

So, got blasting of a heap of stuff done, now to paint! This front left will need remanufacture. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/695f37b324fc6b88cbd8942a3a6bab5d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/3a750847cd8264d5cc6cdd7f9903c3ff.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/0f00f41cfa788717c7a3e0aee11095c5.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/2175a6cdcaea1c31c3b3a35e0613a747.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/22/9c11f43dc7b9cc46e661f0a1a337a757.jpg)

Oh man, all primed after a big day. I'm buggered. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/d6ce53fde2dbdb4a04b2dacea4b08635.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/c103103467210ef924610236601cb3b4.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/cfc87822029050f468e17d05ae4aa730.jpg)

Haha I see my old mate Luke there blasting I bet he was buggered to.

Excellent progress. Always looks nasty after you blast but at least you know what your dealing with now. Make sure you vacuum out the sills if you are not replacing them or the sand will blow out when you go to paint and really shits you off! Cheers, Jamie.

Thanks Jamie. I remember watching your build from start to finish. Not many happening compared to then.

Yeah Frankie J, I got held up last week with my son in hossy for 2 days. Thanks for the advice via text too 😉. Always willing to listen to a pro restorer. Everyone who saw your old stretched Fj resto who hadn't seen it, said with all the custom work it's held up brilliant. All the little bits take a lot of time. Must be hard to quote some of these jobs. Jamie you gave a lot off ppl confidence to give things a go.
I rubbed a lot of it down as well after blasting using the rubber gloves. The Chevy rocker covers came up beautiful. Even if I don't use them I'll bung some stickers on them and hang em up as shed decor.

I agree with Jamie, make sure you blow out and vacuum as much as you can, your front pillars look like mine a bit daunting but time and perseverance will see it done. Take your time and it will all come together.
Jim

Yeah Deano the limo still looks great and goes just as hard, Richard is talking about giving it a paint job this year as its 18 years old now and always driven it has done 72,000 miles since it was built.
Who did you seen the car mate.

I've seen it getting around for years, but your blasting guy was talking about seeing it and other blokes looking at it, it's been to Adelaide a fair bit over the years (although could be others) and I'm sure I've seen it and friends commented as I've lived in Perth, Adelaide, here and Tasmania. So seen it at many shows over the years with dudes commenting. How did u go getting rego and in what state originally?

Hey Deano I built it in the 90's so wasn't so hard and I had a good engineer who dropped in on me regularly because my business was doing heaps of modified cars, his name was Werner ilhe and he was TIC transport industry consultants and a good bloke, they stress tested my car and did a massive brake test that scared the shit out of me lol, anyway the car was a pleasure to drive and has been shown all over the country, the other one I did is in Bunbury Western Australia as there is only five in the country hahahaha I built two of the five.

I thought three. That's what a mag said once.

I've done what I in no way intended to do and that's to do a complete every nut n bolt removed resto. Hmmm. Why did I do that! My intention was to get it on the road asap and then do a proper resto in say 5 years. The missus came out just staring looking at nearly everything gone, 😨 but I do have some significant health issues so want to get these finished while I can still do crappy things like lay under a dash and removing rusted nuts, pins and bolts! 😉

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/02/6ec58abbba49d05dab3fc78c2d715302.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/02/398aa8e159b0095a464aa5e9ca581c7e.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/02/8eb0ab0da362f25751d654c7dc1f70e4.jpg)

Better too do it now and have it all done in one go. I think Neil(firecracker) said a similar thing, he did a quick rebuild and then had too redo it all over again. You will look back when you have finished and be thankfully you did it. Mine was going to be a "quick" tidy up until I found out how much rust there was. For what it's worth, I would finish the taxi while you can and then if your health permits, finish the Brenton blue custom.
Jim

Yeah thanks Jim. I'm not all that old but I would qualify for disability (if I was single). Trying a variety if drugs atm which affects my adrenaline and heart conduction. I have noticed it's making me speed up like I'm on some bloody party drug but then I can go flat. So sorry if I don't make sense the last few years. Nearly have the drugs right now but they are all "off label" for this rare crap.

Bloody hell!!, I'll stop complaining about how I feel at nearly 63. Life can be cruel, you just don't realise how well off you are until you hear of other peoples problems. Look after yourself and your family, as I said before, take it easy and work too your limits, better to finish later than not at all.
Jim

I think if I didn't have some level of physical disability that I'd be focussed more on making $$$ like I used to etc but I prefer to use my non physical time when I'm recovering to do research on general interests rather than sitting around watching tv etc. It's good doing the cars cos there's always research and planning involved and it gets my mind off all of this health crap that me and my son's keep getting surprised with. It's a bit hard when ya don't know what your dealing with and what turn it might take.

I cut sills off. Not bad compared to the FE. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/7ba28cd938cd77ab6ced83588c514068.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/ce11c682e68129632595e9dff9b81f9d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/fcad6eb9306e81ae356235a512720676.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/efb89ecd197923417022f56249e88a10.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/1690d9275a3c9b05e9840aca22bba7f2.jpg)

Got a lot done today and found a cool surprise. Luke the farmer blaster is getting right into this resto and he showed off his skill and wound back the system to reveal this! Layer upon layer he found evidence of the original paint scheme. When he called me over I thought, "shit he has blasted through" but no, he found this 😁. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/b4c3b0dad07481aad608c4d8f5bf934c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/fa1a465bf4f91637f9a5d080e1f3dc20.jpg)

Very cool. So he blasted where I wanted and then I did the first etch coat. Some hints I have learned along the way. For us backyarders without the full on air dryers (I still have 2 traps and 3 air filters) I use a leaf blower to blow down the car cos it doesn't have impurities (a panel beater told me this). Also, when ppl say that blasting is the perfect surface to paint straight over, well only if you can guarantee there's no grease on the vehicle prior to blasting. The grease drives into the surface in tiny rolled up balls, so it's still important to prep properly. I like to dry scotch bright the surface (as long as I'm confident there's no bits of grease or sealants that can rub in) to remove the tiny embedded bits of metal and then wax and grease remove it too. I will remove some of the hard sealers after repairs are done with a grinder. Whatever doesn't come off after blasting deserves to stay. Today is just a coat for flash rust prevention. This is raw metal.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/b3abbb5bd1e284426687f139e83dfc13.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/f71e0695d70aca2e950bce60bdba3bdc.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/ed2c2ef52816a134a722048ee59f3eb8.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/0885d73a4be36e8dc0aa43775d7e75d6.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/8092470473742b8c6bbbfd82d8e69d30.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/16c0782df35f32b269fbf846dc835842.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/2f3438f94230f2798584807e3d06dd69.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/f577d75d635d74cbd67b07469131f810.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/0728d5c03fcf64de9c2e04be1bbc34a2.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/967fddbe8fffd2eaee364e5b7f2a4328.jpg)

Then I painted it after scotchbrighting where I though appropriate and prep etc. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/610101dccd652e9c1a2f2f9c5b80e446.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/2c7875be83ddda4a85c9452cc62ebbd3.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/15e41c6f92947079074529e5fcdefcf9.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/6fa5dd531393ae128b90e4ce5a6b6be7.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/d25e833e6502eb702aa8e20078d3c2e5.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/1e307e1503ebfb6255d74ecec2c0d0a1.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/ae6f77a9939434f5ab61d24817919893.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/a28d3714f06648707ba5c74659b20fca.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/40b6d7795e86388db6552320774a8817.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/a3378bb4e4d7e6c29fbc9dfbc71e2558.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/c69292e6fd0fb2c19dabf74520002386.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/f5f1668f1ed3d5c7547a819e0a8a6e83.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/696d231befe16683f57fb5a1235f68ce.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/871c25f7d01926073ea6af59136ea69a.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/40327e8f92a38042235ab06a32015702.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/8edcc88338d084eb0b1709c1cae1c9cc.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/4493db48140c0cea20f4f0604dd0eed2.jpg)

Pretty damn happy about the front subframe. It's only got a few areas of rust in the easy areas and a bit in the battery area as usual. So with all the tie members being good, it's not going to be too much work to get this in good shape. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/f2be5910e1a2d5f630de9cce7a260466.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/40332087326039bc518f095ddebacbfa.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/241229cb66e86037e2c41a215b6713f5.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/984e28b642f0f59918bf636dfbb30842.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/e191e50ac4052338c0f7c40f9038e149.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/45a82e5df46dad3bd1bf7d14f08c7498.jpg)

Mate I guess there is always someone worse off than yourself . Might be the time of year but I've been feeling a bit sorry for myself lately . Was telling my 83 year old Dad that I saw an interview with Kurt Fearnley and he was asked about goals he has achieved and he replied ,'' People have always kicked doors open for me", my experience is the exact opposite .Doors have always been slammed in my face . Anyway after hearing about your medical problems , mine seem insignificant . I am watching your build with interest so just grind slowly and look after yourself . Haydn

Thanks mate. I mainly wanted to come clean cos I have been on here doing these for a while and there was a time a few years back when I made little sense for a few months and people thought I developed dementia lol. It was about the time I fixed my red Ute. Turned out to be brain ischemia and it makes u drunk like cognitively. I had a lot of trouble stripping the blue car ages ago. Same thing, was blacking out a lot. Now it hardly happens but will if I say squat and undo too many hard bolts etc. But it is what it is. I tried to start my earth moving business again but fell backwards out of my excavator which gave a scare but I have no issues while sitting. It's all with movement. I still established all the fencing, gardens, the whole block on my own for the new place but had many falls and concussions. But I won't stop doing what I wanna do so bugger it.

I was really happy with how the ID plate came up with a light blast and screwdriver. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/2bdd3ecc60f50d8dbb4a6944f3d36570.jpg)

I'm not wasting $80 on car trailer hire lol. My next book will be "50 uses for an excavator". 😁 (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/05/3a747a1e7f332fabf51584a202a544fd.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/05/aa9d2925ac3221b2d77e02c7fe44c377.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/05/659c04a8e3bdb5cc349168db2f6af9d2.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/05/d56d3b814f40d3d4b96198065bcf71eb.jpg)

Dean, those diamond paint patches are cool. They give you positioning, spacing and size of the shape which runs round the car. This is a great find.
Next, the firewall. The hole in the centre of the firewall inside the circle is a typical radio mount, but the 2 holes that are below this are the interesting ones. I would say these two holes would be the rear mounts for the two way radio. Similar to the yellow cab radio shown.

Ken

Bloody heck Ken poor Luke thought I was going to kiss him when he found that. He lightly did the roof at the front but no strip could be found 😖. Yeah the shape is a bit different to what I thought and like you say, I now have dimensions. I'm going to lightly rub back the cowl and see if they are on there. Overall I'm glad I took your advice ages ago to cut the sills to see what's inside. If I need any small original sections for patching with the round inner bits, do you know who might have some? I now know that because the colour is red oxide, grey, white, black diamonds, cream spray putty/primer, then black under the window, the car probably did have a radio and it was likely to have been removed when the diamonds were blacked fully blacked out. I went around the car and did tests of layers. It appears that the car now has the white right around under windows, with the early colour scheme which if black and white is what I prefer. I also prefer that the white be under the front window. White wheels. Ken, see the dash, is that black or what do you think it should be?

I took her to the workshop just up the road to start more work next week.

Looks fairly solid.
Love seeing those diamonds. Look to be individually painted based on the spacings.
I hope you traced over one before totally removed.
Regards
Alex

Great stuff Deano. The rust doesn't look that bad. Hopefully you did get a trace of the diamonds. If not I'm sure we could get a grab from the photo using a tracing tool in Photoshop.

Regards

Wayne b

Yeah I got the measurements. I told him not to blast the vent so have that too. I'll use the polisher to go down and I can get a better tracing off that too. I might even leave them under there and epoxy over and hi fill. The neighbour told me she watched him do the diamonds in his front yard with a brush over the white. He got told off for doing it himself without a stencil, but he was a Bush digger and thrifty. My pop fraught in New guinea twice. He was an ambulance driver, must have been terrible what he saw, but he got malaria and nearly died of that. He was only 18 and was in it for 5 years. Yeah so it fitted in the 8 by 5 trailer too. We blasted the front frame so today I set it up to start making a jigger before I start to de spot it for the repair. I'm not sure if anyone has any good inner sill sections so I can use them at the front. With the radio, the fe has no hole within the circle or the 2 stay support holes.

That's why I highlighted the holes, they're not factory.
Regarding the diamonds, I think it could be a mistake to leave them on the car. You've got to be careful that what you end up with looks good. By all means take photos and display them with the car, but restore the car so that it looks appealing.

Ken

What I mean Ken is leave them under the paint on the vent but new paint over the top. That way there is an original artifact left on the car if you get what I mean. Nobody would be able to tell and it could just be an interesting feature for a possible future owner. Not sure if you get the point of it.

Is it only me or when you post a post Deano the title of the post does not come up. In any category you post in???
Nick

It can be removed or changed while posting

You're right, I don't get it.

Ken

Nick, I don't change anything but someone else pointed that out too. It's a tapatalk fault Stinky said that they are working on. Ken, when I'm in process of doing it, I'll show you then. Is everyone clear that I intend to restore it back to how he had the taxi after it was made into a taxi, not grey original. Just clarifying.

Of course, I've always thought that was the plan

Ken

(http://s11.postimg.org/4blylrixr/image.jpg) ($2)
There you go Deano. show this to Ret and see  if he can fix it

I think that's the worst photo I've ever seen ..... Or not seen lol. (Just kidding, can't see it on the phone).

 :-[

I deleted the app and reinstalled and buffered around with the settings. Still stuffing up.

It's a bit worse than first thought in the top corner below the left a pillar area but I should be able to save the inner sills by putting a strip below the circles on the left side. Quite a lot of work with the three projects and that doesn't include sprucing up the acco for sale. But u only live once.

I don't know how to express my gratitude to Fink for what he has done for me. I get a parcel slip in the post and I can't think for the life of me what I had ordered on eBay etc. Anyway I get there and it's heavy as buggery. This is what rocks up. A genuine taxi meter with a nice message inside. Fink reckons me and the boys should have it as a gift for the taxi. I have seen you do many nice things for people like this so I hope karma acts as it should. Here is my present. I will be sure to repay him one day that's for sure! How cool is the pre decimal fares tag. So I just wanted to thank you for this nice gesture. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/17/b910338903775a39f8dc80fc18d96fc8.jpg)

All I got today was a couple of new caravan reversing mirrors - delivered here by mistake.
On ya Gary.

That got me motivated to find the diamonds fellas. I also started on the subframe repairs. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/17/cdf77154bbf78abccb47f63f85441d25.jpg)

 That"s Gaz for ya. Onya Mate ;D ;D

Bottom left A pillar is finished. Before and after pics. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/31/a6d7d23cf855b25ddd1f91fd7135b963.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/31/8fd5187129828df4d8382451973d1af7.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/31/26dc3e8c59e4e2fa8c14554d32e93ad6.jpg)

Now that this side is done I don't know whether to completely remanufactured the right side or repair what's there. Seems to be at the point that I may as well do it properly like this side, but it's a lot of work. The Rares crossmembers simply did not fit and were too wide. So my advice would be to measure when you pick them up, but they might be a better supplier now. At least with this one the box section was recognizable unlike the FE.

I have been making some progress and have a bit more done on the floor patching with this section being the last last biggest bit. Does anyone know where I can buy the b pillar captive nut kits for the seatbelts online? I already have the floor ones. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/19/f8051c0d7fe25a8352f9a38786a24b73.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/19/8920a5662763ad0d2128107e1e9749d0.jpg)

Hi Dean, good to see some progress. There're heaps of anchor plates on ebay from different sellers. By "captive nut" do you mean the ones held in by sheetmetal tabs?  Most of the ones I've seen are tack welded to the anchor plate.  Are your floor ones different to the "B" pillar ones?  I'm assuming you're either cutting a slot or removing a patch from the pillar, installing the plate, then welding up again.
Cheers, John

These are simple to make from mild steel also, provided you have the correct dimensions (plate thickness, corner radius, chamfer etc).
Simply making them oversize with heavier plate isn't really the way. The ADR maintain the plates should allow for a certain amount of distortion without pulling through the floor or pillar.
Best ask a local engineer or vehicle registry for the dimensions & positioning beforehand, and be compliant with the latest rules. Could save a lot of drama later when everything is painted & polished up.

I'm back. Been a long boring story but now on the right combo of heart meds and to my surprise some epilepsy meds, so I am 200% better and not going funny in my head anymore. So, I have been very busy getting more tools together and finished the shed and organised the huge parts bins from doing both cars. Saved up for some more panels and got the Austin truck going and got that where I want it. Just sold my other truck today so am fighting like a seagull with the missus for some funds..... I might get some scraps if I am lucky! Got a few sneaky sales from stuff I sorted in the move. So a new compressor is much needed. I would love to replace my current Iwata gun with a Devilbliss gti pro or an Iwata 400 too. Got a new inverter tig setup, just a small one and finally an argon bottle.

I ordered the subframe radiator support from Ray which fits awesome and I love the drain/inspection holes. I found that the main body of the car was quite out of whack. But thanks to my awesome mates down the road they did some technique when welding (I missed it but I'm thinking they shrinked areas with coldness after welding, I forgot to say that previously) but it is now completely straight sitting on concrete. So after straightening out the subframe I am currently welding the patches in and am about to install the three sections of the radiator support tie members. It's important to use rope or ratchet strap to pull the upper end of the radiator bolt holes before going ahead further, so that it's all square (easier second time around).

Stripped all paint off the car and knocked out some dents and assessed any damage. Got the heat gun out and got the bog out of the rh rear bumper mount and the rounded bits near the taillight which uncovered a suspicion that it had been hit on the bumper on the corner.

So I have decided to cut the fe customs bumper mount out, which is perfect and put this original piece in the taxi. I decided to cut all the old school braze weld out and a patch and the heat affected area that was brittle as hell. It's so thick at the base below where the original spot welded seam would be that I will leave the rear one third below the mount as is. Then I will replace the mount first, then order a quarter rust panel from ray and work my way forward towards it. The inner lower dogleg is awesome as is the inner. It's good cos they brazed in a new inner boot panel from the shunt so it's not rusted.

Took rear end out. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/995bab624225220a7ccf5f01686e098f.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/700f90ca407b331fa9393abc4e1eb919.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/e66d29675f385023995a9d56fa1b9c48.jpg)

See an old patch and it's all heat affected and panelbeated and stretched to buggery. So the crash (not huge though) flattened the inch wide part of the mount that gives it's bulging shape so they had an inch of bog on the outside of the mount to take up the space  ;D

  (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/4e9b301ac904db52a5fe6a78a368f2c7.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/7940bc938b9a47b3efd2f6b2d35f949f.jpg)

The left side is quite awesome with only a small patch needed in that usual spot

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/84a81a68aa07317d000403d8ecb96d5f.jpg)

There were a few minor dents that I got straight here and there and the roof had a weird depression in it that's surface rusted. There's rust in the forward left boot channel. I will chop donor bits out of the custom fe to keep this as original as possible. I shall post pics of progress on subframe but kids hogging my computer.

Pics of the radiator tie member condition. I am a bit further along now and have the patches cut cos I am replacing all the metal along under the radiator side of the front piece cos its all a bit thin there. We made our own with the FE but this time I wanted to try the repro ones cos they have the holes in them and I don't need any strengthening like the V8 car.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/DSC00004_zpsa3ybwkr9.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/DSC00002_zpsxtadqohr.jpg) ($2)
Some more pics of the old patches and rough rear corner of the car.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/DSC00056_zpslrbp2lck.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/IMAG0691_zpswl8ceige.jpg) ($2)
Some areas with dents removed and the roof stripped. The left rear quarter only has a bit of rust at the front near the wheel that I will patch.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/IMAG0697_zpsiaxrcjik.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/taxi/body%20work/IMAG0687_zpsyxiim0fg.jpg) ($2)

Good to see you back into it.

Regards

Wayne b

Sorry I have not posted in a while but am still working on the cars.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk