FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

I have purchased an unmolested, truly authentic piece of aussie motoring history and have finally made a start on building the car I have always wanted to do from scratch. For some reason I like the slighly less American looking FE over the FC, even though the FC has a bit more of a Chev look imo with all the fancy trims.

So, here we go, on a journey that most of you blokes have already taken!

Here is my project, a 1957 FE Special Sedan.

Body: FE 225-10554M
Trim: 238-704
Paint 253-7447
Repo: 253-7478
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Interior is Cosmos Grey/Summit Blue.
Paint: Breton Blue/Teal roof

The car has been in a shed for last 20 years. Previous owner's son lost interest due to the chassis and floor being badly corroded (no worse than most others I have seen that are completely original and not kept well).
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Got the car into the garage after making room. I am about to build a new house on 10 acres next door. I've done all the subdivision with my toys myself! so Ill be a busy boy next year.

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Some more pics.
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Well fewithrb30 you have a challenge ahead of you. Hopefully over time you will be able to preserve another piece of history.


Welcome to the forum and I do believe that you have set some type of record for the most posts in a very short space of time.

Love the passion and good luck. :)

Rgds Wayne

Just got in from the shed, took off the bonnet, boot and gutted all the floor mats etc from boot area and gave a good vacuum. To my surprise even with hefty use of a small screwdrive, I could not find any holes in the spare tyre well or the rear guard inners! The fuel tank has a fair bit of fuel in it and looks pretty solid from underneath and good on top. I expected to find that a screwdriver would go through after removing the sealants etc.

The engine sounds sweet, might do a compression test before I take her out, a wet and dry one!

I got the half inch rattle gun out and turned it down to small torque and rattled bolts off here and there. That makes it much easier! My youngest son Corey started on removing the front grille and knobs and brushing her down inside. The car is very very original. Pity the weekend is over again and work gets in the way of the important things  :-\

Pls feel free to tell me whether this is good or bad on the scale of what an original fe should look like,

cheers

Period Smiths heater, made in England. Wow, something not made in Japan or China! Unusual for blokes my age to see this  :(
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all the rust and stain around and under the car is from  people leaving them in the long grass or grass growing up around them makes a mess of them.



Good to see your using my old girl as inspiration i pulled it out of a shed covered in crap and all i did was polish it best 6 grand i ever spent.

Heres a before pic

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Pete

After ride-on mowing a few acres after work,  amongst 2 billion odd hoppers, I finally got a late start stripping the front end. Interesting how the grille goes together. How pedantic do people get, like do people doing an original body build keep old bolts and clean them up or use new ones? Does it matter to a keen ole owl when you go to shows later etc??? ???
Cheers in advance.
Deano
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What build number is yours FCHOON?  What state etc? What are the 3 top features to have in a special sedan and what are rare features? Obviously rust is not a rare feature ha ha  :D

Hey Fewith.

Where abouts are you.  I recognise that go-kart.  If you're 3.5hrs from Melb I am thinking you're in Horsham and the kart you have belonged to Matt J from Mount Gambier.

I've just moved to Mt G from Cairns (with my FC) and next time Im in western vic for karts would love to catch up and look at your FE.  Although it may be a big project it certainly looks like you will have a real gem on your hands once its complete.

hrpremier

My recommendation is keep everything, photograph it, bag it and tag it. You never know.

Regards


Wayne

Yeah that's right about the kart.

As u can see Wayne, ppl are probably sick of my photos but the more photos the more records I have of the car before dismantle.

Mine has police numbers So i have no idea  ???


Might be why it was so cheap? ;D





Word round the traps is that it was a 2 owner car before i got it and it came from telarah about 15min from my house and was told it was a sydney car.

Who knows they could be sisters one is just uglier than the other at the moment.

Also grille is easier to take the whole lot out then strip it.

When you get to your guards read the shop manual they are hard getting the top bolts inside the cab use a really long 1/4 drive extension and a 11 mm socket or 7/16 and a swivel on the end.

I would suggest you keep all the bolts and nuts and try and pull everything apart without damaging it. Even if something is really rusty, it might still do for a template or just to identify what you need at rares or a swapmeet. Try not to change panels if you can, because not every panel fits the same on every car, if the doors fitted your car well then just get the rust fixed and the doors will still fit well. Don't throw anything out before you ask people on here first, then they can tell you if you might need it further down the track.
Good luck with the build, it looks like you are having some fun with it. If you want to know if this is standard for an original car, just go and have a look what i started with, with my FC, and it might give you some indication. Look under Hayshed FC in the projects section. I also sent you a PM.
cheers Scotty

Thanks for the advice. thats one reason i bought it cos the panel fit is superb.

.

Went to Melbourne today for some parts.

Hey GAO350, how did you go getting rego

id say his is a earlly conversion or 327 numbers or block at a guess

Hey Hoon, what did you run, a stock rb30 first then go to RB26 head with turbo? How did you go with floors etc, did you do similar to Pedro and use a donor floor or custom one. Some use VT?? Not sure if it would matter that much just for seat and handbrake positions? What u think, how did your extractors go getting clearance? I was thinking maybe a more hypo 4 cyl would give more room under bonnet..... what have u thought on this. if u did again what would u do without going v8.

Well, been busy sorting out some gear I got from Melbourne. I got a hr front end.

All my floors are original and originally i just welded the VL shifter bit into mine.
I made my own 3/4 chassis i first did the conversion using a 500 thousand km plus VL ended up breaking even by the time i sold the grey motor and the vl parts.
That old 500 thousand km motor blew 3 gearboxes and 13 banjo,s before fitting a centura diff and a rb25 gtsT gearbox for strength.

I then re built it all and did my own engine runs crow valve springs ported polished head 20 thou over block GTS cam extractors patrol clutch and pressure plate.

I had a RB25 head on it for a while with a monster high mount turbo but due to it being our wedding car i had to get it finished and running properly so i went back to atmo 30 head.

I bought a half cut so i could just use the whole RB26 it was very low KM vehicle.

You will have to change your sump and pick up
Also the extractors will be way to long in height they will need to be stumpied up.
The last fuel set up i ran was a V8 commodore fuel pump $38 off e bay in tank with a internal swirl pot.

If you are thinking of running a torana rack i suggest dont they are shithouse in the turning circle run a commodore one shortened Stewarts rods and customs do this also pat gardener or last resort rod haddfield.

I am still thinking of selling my whole set up tank and front end and motor box but am still unsure weather to or not as i have a EH for the wife and i thought i would put all the RB25 bits on the 30 block and runthat set up for her.


Pete

Some good pointers there. Thanks.

Just one question how would you explain fewithrb30 username  and someone says oh cool you have a rb30 and then you say nah its got a sr20 snap out of it.


If i did it again i would do what im doing as i havent finished yet and a shitload of money has gone into the driveline might go  toyota 2J tho easier to make big power my mates ej van is fairly stock making 550HP at the wheels.


Pete

i think i am wanting something different out of my build than yours. your obviously a hoon  ::), no sorry i know your a hoon  ;D because you have that turbo territory and have blown so many diffs, but i wanna have more of a club cruiser with a bit of poke.  i race my kart when i want to race, but yeah, i think the straight six looks the part. id do a different car if i wanted outright performance not muck around with fc's. this will be more of a hobby car. the fg falcon motor is great, we have one at the moment in our g6 falcon, i had 2 VE's b4 that. I like the ride of the VE commodore over falcon but they usually suck in engine and trasmission department. I think next month ill be getting a dark blue sv6 sportswagon. will be interesting to see what the new2 6 speed auto is like. we do a lot of kays per year. i have a 2000 model dual cab rodeo sport, should put a lexus v8 in that one, but shit handling as is 4wd.

im trying to build a new house at moment, so a lot of money is going into that to get the new driveways and power on etc. got too much on  :-\

sometimes i wonder why i do so much stuff, but i get bored if i dont over commit myself ha ha.

Hi all

I have some more questions. When undoing the bonnet hinges and the brake master, I notice on the corners there is black rubbery stuff on the edges, looks like it was once in liquid form like gasket goo and looks original. Is this stuff original?

Also, the bumper bolts that went through the subframe on the brackets were very this, i think they had become loose over the hears and nearly all worn away.. If the rest of the subframe is ok, i suppose building up weld and then re drilling them would make the holes stronger than original.

If my subframe is too far gone at critical points, is it best to put replacement pieces in or I am worried if I buy other so called "good ones" then I might be buying other peoples trouble.

A lot of the bolts are breaking which I am assuming is pretty normal.

cheers

Dean.

Old Skool conversion id say i know of a few fe fc with 350s but they are earlly 80s conversions..

im plugging away still, but having a think of what i really want out of this build. do i really need a quick FE? If I want quick, there are heaps of better choice for quick that will handle better. mines so original i am thinking back all the time to keeping moist of it original.

After owning a V8 EK ute for a number of years as a daily driver I can reassure you that it was fun in a straight line and around town. But on a trip very noisy and iffy handling.

Going the almost stock route will not disappoint because you won't be looking for the not so easy to attain good handling, NVH, comfort etc. For this reason I'm building an old style custom out of my FE, grey motor, crash box, drum bakes etc then I won't be too disapppointed!

Of course I will love it because it's old and simple, my BMW scares me because of it's complexity (and service costs) but my split kombi is slow, noisy, probably not real crashworthy but easy to sleep in! And everybody wants to talk to me about it.

Ain't that part of what we're about.

thats exactly right. here in western victoria, the roads are worse than log truck roads in tasmania. i can still make it old school and very cool with lots of bling and get the grey sounding very sweet and rebore it and do some crazy lumpy shit ha ha.  :o

if i wanna drive something like its on rails i will be getting our new sv6 soon (3 weeks). I almost wanna have something simple like u say, to take me back to a different era. when i go away in in i wanna leave the computer and mobile home.

i pretty much think that i wanna make it as gooder car as i can like it was new or better, i can always go that way and if i dont like it i can change it anywho. ::)

I have 2 race karts so thats my fast stuff, ill have a vehicle for every mood. I also have a truck! and a 4wd ute. so i virtually have a vehicle for most moods.

Any ideas guys on what other cars/moods I have left out. perhaps and sv6 is a bit bogan and i need a doof doof car like a skyline too lol.

Well I finally got stuck into it again after delays due to floods and other crap.

Took gearbox and motor out. The subframe looks good, u can tell it was a bush car, red dirt everywhere. Looks to have a fairly new clutch. was hardly nay oil in gearbox.
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More pics
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Looks like you are getting stuck into it dean are you planning to do an all nighter ,that happens some times with these old things they get you in Good luck with it mate

haha. i might do another all dayer tomoz but i have other things to do but sometimes u just gotta get stuck in hey!

its weird cos i could get one of these with insane horsepower very cheap and it would kill a lot of 350 chevs for power and torque, yet my engineer says a twin turbo of 2.5litre capacity is fine, but I cant put a 5ltr standard v8 or a turbo standard rb30 which would make less horsepower than a good 5ltr v8. its all a bit strange.

maybe the horsepower "potential" of a heavily modified V8 would be too much?

it would be nice if they could be assessed on a case by case basis, but impractical and unaffordable!

Im really quite confused  ???

I went to my local hot rod club and they are saying i should keep it to period style. I think i need 2 cars ha ha. A modded custom and an original. Bloody hell. Didnt think it would turn out to be this hard.

,Mate its great to get other peoples opinions but in the end its your ride and your building it for you to enjoy not everybody else so build it the way you want and enjoy ,it will be a awsome piece of Australian motoring history what ever way you go

I was only joking when I wrote the above "maybe I need 2 cars" but I went parts hunting, believe it or not, I went and got a cheap UC 10 bolt diff just for keeps - and low and behold this bloke said "I know a bloke who knows a bloke who is retiring, selling up and has no room for an FC. he lost interest. Is car from Adelaide and has full owner history. Beautiful black and Riff red interior.

fc225-18852-a
Trim 254-847
Paint 253-7773
253-5300 insert

Basically same type of paint job as that trax one on the ebay link below, but was originally 2 tone grey (Black and White Taxi Service was smaller company back then and Holden didn't do factory customs like yellows).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holden-FC-taxi-set-complete-/200584080613

Well, I went to have a look. The guy really wanted it gone, so had a look, expecting a complete disappointment. But its better than the one I have in terms of floor rust etc, and it is pretty much all there. The thing I like it comes with a lot of history, original owner details, a 1969 taxi roadworthy document and rego papers from 1973, taxi compay stickers etc.

But the great thing is, I was worried about what the missus would think, but turns out it was a local car with its owner in the suburb just down road from where my wife was raised. I have always said I wanted a themed car, perhaps an old delivery car, but now Im excited (just a little bit  ;D ;D ;D) to have the opportunity to get 2 cars, both my favourite (FE 1st and FC 2nd) back on the road.

So my plan is to continue to try and get my FE finished as a classic custom, now I will probably do full custom, change colours etc to what I want, but bring the taxi back to original taxi specs etc. with a taxi bar, meter, the whole deal, but keep it completely stock so that it can remain a part of history, from where my kids and wife were born and I grew up - Adelaide.

So now that has solved my dilema somewhat of being torn on whether to go stock or custom and I have the themed car I always wanted.

My wife used to go in bay to birdwood with her fathers 29 chev and customline, so once I told her that Id do it as a cheaper stock resto, she was a bit hooked by the prospect of getting back into the swing of the annual bay to birdwood. ;D

All is good with the world.

The ebay page is down.

But nice work. Can't wait to see some more photo's :)

Not only is this an untra cool document, but the engine in my blue car is actually an EK (Motor B24----)  and it had a "manufactured by Brooklands". See this list of dealers include this supplier, who was in Horsham way back in 50's. How cool is this doco that has a list of distributors at bottom.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/26833332/Holden-Owners-Manual-50s-60s

I am quite happy with the doors generally, the front pans and channels look sad.

Thanks everyone for assisting me with replies on the forum so far, much appreciated.

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I am not too freaked out by the condition of the subframe, the only real rust and lots of it is centred around where the bolts hold the bottom onto the main chassis.
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Not sure whats good or bad so some comments would be good from the Gurus please. It would be good if i did it again to invite some mates over to get this part knocked over quickly.
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I've just realised you took out the hinges with the door attached :P  It's way easier if you take the door off the hinges first and then take the hinges out of the body.

Re the subframe - it looks to me like the outer subframe bolts will never come out intact, so undo the nut (if possible), clean the rust and dirt out around the shaft of the bolt where it is exposed and cut the bolt with an oxy torch as close as you can to the subframe leg. You can then work the head of the bolt out of the sill and punch out the remainder of the bolt.
The inner subframe bolts should be not too bad and these should be done next. Penetrene will help as these bolts cannot be cut out since generally the steel in this area is not rusted.
Lastly the upper bolts should be undone and then the subframe can be lowered.

Ken

Thanks Ken, I realised my dopey mistake, hence I did the back doors the way you suggesed. Thanks for your advice.

Still progressing but slowly due to the new house block being fenced.

Well I got stuck into things again today. Stripped the grey out of blue car. I think cos this is not the original motor ill modify this one and do a stock rebuild on the taxi keeping it original.

These really are a beautiful looking motor. I am actually starting to think of doing a warm grey but do the modified front end with rack etc and just see what I think first before getting too far with engineers etc. Because Ill have 2 cars, it wont hurt to have 2 grey motors anyway.

This motor is in as poorer condition as I have ever seen one that would run. It's not so much the bores, which are a bit of a concern, but the crank looks to me like this was a thrashed paddock bom, in very average condition.

Just have to see if the crank is salvagable, get block tested, hardly any valve recess, looks like a newer head but the bottom end neglected. Had a broken ring in number 6 but not too scored on the bore.

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There is so much to do I don't feel like I am getting far but getting everything prepped and stripped is a big part I guess. I am beginning to think that I should not modify the fe too much, these cars are not designed to go fast and are so worthy of being kept the way they are considering their age, whatever I do I think I should keep period. Like even if i put a v8 in it would be a corvette 289 chev or something period from 50's, or if a fast grey would have to be a blown grey or a grey with a period style waggot drivetrain/head. I am thinking a red is as modern as I should go. Really beginning to appreciate the age of these things and the historic value. Pretty lost for direction on the FE at the moment but have plenty of time to do other stuff like the stock FC for now in the meantime. Decisions decisions! I have not lost enthusiasm though.

Deano, I'm glad you have not lost your enthusiasm. As the saying goes its a marathon, and eventually you will get there. Taking on 2 cars is a big deal. I barely have time for one.

Little bit by little bit and suddenly you will have saved 2 cars worthy of saving.

The updates are great. :)

Regards

Wayne B

Deano
Going well Boy!  I think we all go through those stages of WTF  am I doing ???
Little by little you cross things off and eventually it all starts coming together.... I hope... Don't know if I'm encouraging you or giving myself a talking too. :D :D :D
My biggest problem is working out which order to do things so that I don't have to redo something. Right now I really would like the underneath sand blasted.
Keep up the good work.
I think that i'm going to keep both of mine standard but " work " one of them a bit. Lumpy cam, twin carbs, headers and what ever I can get done when I get the engine rebuilt.
Nick

Thanks guys I appreciate your comments. I am now a firm believer that over winter, may be best to shut up shop and hybernate and plan, or say do a motor or something. Now a few fine days and Im getting enthusastic, knowing that paint will actually dry etc.

Well it has been a while since I did an update.  :-X  My FE is in a very poor state let me tell you, but I wanted to do up what I have got, so I am sticking to that. The fuel tank is about the only thing so far to come back from the blaster without any holes! The subframe is a very different story, except I am very happy with the end where it attaches to the car body/sill area and the inner guards (I think that what they are called) are also very good. I am making the rotisserie now. I just need to do some more cross bracing on it, but i have jumped on it and i'm a big fella and it didn't break. I think I have seen worse. See the smaller pieces on left and right, Ill do some bracing to there from the outer brackets that bolt to the body and some more the other way. Not sure if I should put one under the brackets to the body? Seem ok the way it is.
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I am practicing doing mig welds on this tube with high heat and feed to get good penetration, something i haven't done in the past, I am now convinced that low heat low feed speed sucks ass for penetration and strength and shall seldom do it this way moving forward.

I have decided for the FE to be a bit of a sleeper, with a SBC Chev going in but want the body same colour as original and steely wheels perhaps. Considering that the whole of the underneath of the car is cactus, it will all be replaced. Thanks to Hoon, Jamie and Stinky for their tips, and of course the various Ken's too. Perhaps an IRS rear would also be cool, but does anyone know what has worked out the best if I use Holden? Or is a hot rod kit better? OR cos it will be a SBC, perhaps a live 9 inch. So, I shall keep chugging along and hope life doesn't keep getting in the way of my progress.

Thanks all.

Made up the sleeve for the rear end, put an old towbar on the mount rear part of rotisserie. Ordered 4 floor pans, crossmember and numerous other rust repair sections for guards etc, will make up new sills with a local dude. I put weight on front rotisserie and moved car around garage, was surprise the car didnt snap in half without any horizontal bracing cos so much rust! Was sort of hoping it would so I could chop it and shorten the body and make a rod thing out of it  :D. All is good, apart from all the usual aches and pains!

Oh and the subframe has been blasted and is sad, but I ordered the strengthening/bracing for it and am planning the attach on replacing the box sections.

Out with the old subframe....................   :o
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In with the new bits..............    ;D

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Strengthened, drilled and spot welded, bracing to go on this week, it's good to see some structural bits happening!

Thats some serious stuff there Deano. Looking good.

Regards

Wayne b

Ok this one will be kept pretty original in the body but open to changing everything else. Sorry for changing my mind on the run.

There has been progress on the Fe. As well as the pics above we decided to put the waddington strengthening plate in and replaced 2 subframe legs that appeared ok but didn't want to take and shortcuts on structural integrity. My theory is that if we do an extra special job on the subframe and chassis and underbody then it puts the ole girl in s good position for another 50 years. This also has contributed to my decision making about the build and I'm slowly becoming a purist and starting to respect the age and significance of the model I am dealing with. I am even stripping the replacement sections and recoating them with suitable primer so that they last longer. I am motivated by my home state holding the next nationals and can't wait for the pics from the nationals next week.

Got sills yesterday...check, got all floor pans...check got front crossmembers...check...and heaps of other crap...check, let the fun begin!

It's too hot to do this stuff in 36 degree heat!

Sorry haven't put many pics up lately. Flipped over, took diff out, the inners look deceptively good, but im too stuffed now to bother with the screwdriver/bash test.   :D :D :D

Have been doing a lot of planning....... ??? ??? ??? ???

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As you can see the FE is pretty bad country car. The town it came from only has 1 sealed road in and out, all other directions is dirt!

I've seen worse Deano.Just get it blasted then start cutting!!!My FC was also a dirt road country car in similar condition.I chipped about 30 kilos of dirt ,mud and crud off the bottom of the car.Most importantly,stay focused.After the repairs I have done,I wouldn't consider that to be a big deal but then I'm not easily deterred.... ;)

Na i can't wait to get going. but I am not a fabricator but that doesn't matter, ill give it a go and use the forum as always. Im not sure whether to use the mobile guy or take it into the proper place where they do a good epoxy coating with all the proper booth etc. I think at such a crucial stage Ill do the latter as the mobile guy would just use a cheaper etch primer or want me to etch it, but I should stick to the dude that did the subframe as the work was good and thorough.

Still going, getting the diff sorted. Shortening a vn-vr LSD diff. Doing some other body work. Busy with new house stuff etc.

Slab is down, LSD Diff is shortened.
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Diff looks great, the shed looks enormous.

Great Stuff.

Regards

Wayne b

That slab is for our new house. If it was a 260sqm shed I'd be buying more cars lol.

ahhh the memories..... :-[

Yeah Jamie. It's like I'm living in your footsteps with the car and the house. But I'm silly enough to build a house a second time lol

yeah,this is our second also... ??? Crazy isn't it?

At least getting both done from scratch u get what u want though.

Hi all. I'm actually not dead, although some days I feel like I am with all that's been going on. I have been working on little bits and pieces, but we have built the shed .....ah sorry Wayne, the house....almost! May be ready end of next month....and guess what, no shed! OOOOh dear  :o. It will happen trust me, but considering I only live next door, I will wait til I sell the other house or get a contract on it, then start doing my first shed then. The second big shed can go up after that, hopefully with some proceeds from the sale of the current joint.

This is starting to look like a life blog like some of youze guys, so why should I be any different!  :D

Oh and I keep changing my mind still. My plan is to get some things done that are out of my league when we do move so both cars are away for a month when I build the sheds.

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More pics. When we have moved into the house, I will still have plenty of excuses not to have the cars done.

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Where the truck is parked is where the big shed will be, small one on left of that. See Ive done power there already, 2 more separate long power runs for possible hay shed later and other is in centre of yard, one for small pump shed (see small slab near house) and power to roundabout now too!

Still getting some progress done. Waiting on new shed to go up. I keep looking at it but it is still in pieces.

Well I am pleased to say that some progress has been made. Despite having pretty much completed the landscaping and fencing on the new place, I have been busy sorting stuff out and have taken some pics of progress on my less than average body. This car has been truly saved cos most probably would have got rid of it!

I have ordered my turbo 700 trans mount kit from v6 conversions. I have the HR front scalloped and strengthened inside by a reputable engineer. I'm after a rear rack setup for it, to suit the chevy engine and turbo 700. If anyone has anything worth telling me about the mid section of this conversion, pls go ahead. I know I will need to cut extra to fit a modified ek auto tunnel and perhaps make minor firewall adjustment for the big box. The whole floor is shagged. I wasn't even game to get it grit blasted cos there wouldn't be much left of it, so complete floor going in, chassis kit is also ready.

Forgot to say, my shed is all laid out about to be installed. It is 18.3m Long by 7.6m wide and just over 3m high, designed for wind cat 2. Trenching slab, 500cm deep. cant wait for that to go up.  ??? ??? ??? ::) ::) ::) :P :P :P :-\ :-\ :-\

other shit I have been busy with.  :P

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chook house

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Its been  a while since you played cars

Yeah I'm doing something about that. Floor on one side in, lh sills nearly done. T700 mount in post. More parts getting sorted for blasting on both cars. I won't put pics up till sills are in and floor finished.  :P

The rear main frame channel thingy is the best bit on the whole car. I'm wondering at what point I should run new wires back.
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Photobucket mobile version sorta sucks  :P
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Yay pitchers 8), whoa big job there Deano no wonder you've been finding it hard to get going, as someone who has been through it though just keep plugging away and as you start to see the light at the end of the tunnel you will start to get more motivated, I don't want to sound like i'm telling you what to do but if you got it sandblasted first you would find it easier to see what you are up to and the welding a lot smoother plus it just makes you feel better to look at the old girl all clean and primed instead of rusty and dirty, have a look at the first couple of pages of my post and see how much difference it makes i was stoked when i got my wagon done she looked so much better.
  Pedro

Hmmm,reply number 63..... ??? ;)

Done it for a reason. I live in a remote area and no blaster for long distance, also I want the floors all blasted a primed too cos they are crap. We only have an industrial blaster guy here which is too abrasive. If I was in city it would be easy.

I'm borrowing a shed too, mine still in pieces  :'(

A little bit when ever you can. Hope it goes to plan. 

Regards

Wayne b

Its good not having too much of a time frame. Hey, do ppl take project cars to the Nationals?

No not really, the nationals is geared towards finished cars, and the constitution lists some basic requirements that all cars much have. One is that it must be legally registered in its home state. The reason for this is because of insurance.

Ken

Thanks ken.  ;)

Strengthening plates in and subframe leg repairs done. I think I have found a guy close who has started soda blasting! So wont be long and she will be going there.....hopefully!  :P
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 looking good Deano. soda wont touch rust, surface or otherwise.
  cheers
   Scott

Hey are you in adelaide collecta? Yeah a lot of people talk about soda blasting these days. Another bloke reckons to use used garnet that has already gone through the gun for mine.

 Im in Adelaide. A mate of mine has a blast shop and does soda and conventional. New blast media does leave a very coarse finish. Using the media over and over, it does fine up and leaves a smoother finish but heat and warpage become a problem particularly on panels. Soda wont touch glass ,rubber,chrome or stainless.
cheers
Scott

I just had an origanal sedan rear venetian blasted by a local dude. He used a new garnet (he was waiting for new media when I dropped the parts off) and in his words dusted it - absolutely no warpage and clean as a whistle!

Very happy

What's the name of the joint Scott. ::)

Thinking of a Suzuki colour "Azure Grey". The tunnel is in for the t700 trans, firewall slightly modified for anything in future with big bellhouse  :o also trans mount in, most of shitty stuff done!  8)

I remember when Pete (rb26) said to me once that if I survive the body work then I can worry about other shit. Well, I think I'm on me way Pete.

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Hey Pedro "I saw the light at the end of the tunnel today"!!!  :o :o :D :D :-\

I did some more today, getting driveline ready and wondering whether I should paint the diff red or orange?

Some more pics
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This is closest to real life for Azure Grey colour.

Are you spraying under your channels before welding on ?
Im using autolacs weld thru primer. Excellent product.

Floors look very neat.

Identical gearbox mount to mine, courtesy PatG

That colour looks good... It only took me 3 years to nail down my colour!

Yeah Pete, using the weld prime stuff. It's good. Painting behind sills etc too.

Colours are hard to pick. We thought the gearbox mount was a bit crap looking but is proven product for rego

I decided to do the diff black cos after not seeing anything I didn't think was poxy, unless I am going ribbed or fancy aluminum, I don't want it standing out.

Starting on the rear calipers now and assemble to axles etc.

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You're certainly making up for lost time now Deano, you've gotten heaps done keep up the good work, and the pitchers ;).
    Pedro

Well, I knocked up these samples and would like opinions. The Holden "Barbados Blue" colour on the right has the same colours as the 'Azure Grey" on the left, those being Chardonnay and Topaz Metallic Gold. I would like to incorporate some kind of goldy colour into the engine bay but wants something not too blingy. Orange peel was what I was thinking but I sampled that and it doesn't go too good with purply/aqua tinges in these paints, but I could spalsh a bit of that on ancillaries of the taxi perhaps! which looks cool against the black.

Which main colour do you blokes like best. I am pretty set on the Azure and mind you, the Azure looks awesome in the sun and a fair shade lighter. It was dreary but bright when I took these pics.

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Being an FE it will be all the same colour but maybe with some custom side chromework.

Whilst it's nice to have popular opinion on your side I think you should be aiming to please the one person who really counts, and that's you!  :) Is there anything we could offer that would turn you off the Azure? If not, then go with your first choice! Great build by the way. You took on something that would scare most people away so whatever colour you choose you can be rightly proud of it.  All the best for the rest of the build. Martyn

Yeah Martyn, years ago I only looked at cars that needed no major structural mods but I suppose you get sick of easy stuff. I am sorting of after an opinion on whether the Chardonnay or the Gold go best with the Azure. Im pretty set on the Azure the more I keep looking at it but wouldn't put that on a two tone car.

Hey Deano,

I have always said that people's cars are theirs to do how they like... Colour choices can not get any more personal when doing a car, as its you that looks at it every time you open the garage door.
If you choose a colour and someone doesn't like it well stuff em, it's your car!

Saying that my idea is to try and keep things simple. Looked at a 2 tone ute, but could not do it differently than other 2 tones and make it look ok. I wanted different... Not many orange FE utes around, and I wanted the car to be noticed without being glaringly obvious (debatable on my final choice) I made my choice by looking at cars going down the highway when driving... How many and what colours actually stand out. Answer not many

So for your car what are you trying to achieve? Azure grey and what? For where? I am not sure a bright modern style of colour will suit in the main. Are you going to 2 tone the car?
To tell you the truth I thinks Pete's colour combo is my favorite 2 tone. Subtle with a light and dark mix.

Maybe that azure grey with the colour of the car you posted would suit each other.
Drivetrain etc for me, I have always gone black, it gets dirty from use, my cars are not show cars and it doesn't draw attention away from the body.

Hope that helps a little, but in the end mate it is really what you want and not what anyone else wants as its your car.

Cheers
JB

Did you see the above post with the goldy colours?  ???

But where are you planning to put the goldy colours Deano? As the main colours with the grey over it at the back? I don't know if it would work the other way round... But that's what I was trying to say before, it really is what you prefer, as if I said to do it a certain way and you did do it and then hated it... You would blame me forever.   :-\
Cheers
JB

Don't think i can say that JB, you'll be able to see mine coming from about 2 klm. away ::) :D :D

I agree with JB on this one Deano, It's up to you to choose the colour as nobody else has the same tastes, there are some awful colour schemes out there (in my opinion ) but the owners love them and that's what matters, i bet not everybody likes my choice but that's exactly what it comes down to "my choice", we'll help as much as we can but the final decision is yours, I presume you will be doing the taxi in original colours so that's easy, the other one is not going to be a stockie so you can go as wild as you like, Smithy did some photoshopping for me a few years ago they aren't all the colours you have mentioned but some are close and it will give you some ideas i'll find them out and post them for you shortly.
  Pedro

Hope this helps

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Started on the outer sills, the rear section is a pain in the ass with that rear rounded section completely rooted and requiring manufacturing, so getting my guru to work some magic on that.

Also getting ready to fit the steering rack brackets to the scalloped and internally strengthened HR front end. I'm giving each car various transplants, using the best stock parts on the taxi that I obviously don't need for the street machiner, including an EJ block  :-*

I have purchased a re manufactured VK rack. It just happens to be that my Guru ag manufacturing mates who manufacture high quality farm goods, are doing a few conversions for their mates, so I asked him to get the other bloke to get a move on and we can do them side by side. Some days everything just goes to plan.

Now I am figuring out how I want to make my grafted brackets for the new tank and fill in the square hole! While I am at it i discussed the spare wheel carrier with a few blokes and they and I agree to keep it and put a space saver commodore rim in there. Have decided to run dual small very modern batteries (maybe even dry ones) in the boot for added oomf for any unforeseen mods in future like DVD players or other fancy shit and I am thinking of a way to incorporate some kind mounting for the batteries.

Also putting in some kind of speaker insert at front, but not too big cos I hate stereos without subs so only need to house a 4 inch max.

Trying to adapt it and will sort radiator shit out later. If anyone has chev radiatior pics or measurement which may be useful I would appreciate any advice.

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Secretly drooling over and gaining inspiration from the VK one that a mate is shortening for his mate.
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prick of a thing
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extra beers may be required after this! But my guru is doing a great neat job. We cant understand why my taxi sills have a smaller flat section than the FE, even the originals a bit different.
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I'm so pleased with this bit.
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Not bad for a bunch of bush whackers, but out here we are so remote, it usually brings out the best in people cos they are used to making their own stuff.
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this is mostly raw, hasn't been tidied up yet. I wanted to be like Jamie and Hoon and put as many pics up for the guys who are going the whole hog. Jamie and Mt Isa boys time in sharing should be repaid in the spirit of the forum  :'( :'( :'(

For some reason I am pretty motivated. This is my slack time for work so making the most of it! Was up til 4am researching more and uploading old pics onto the forum. I still cant see any way of making an fe/fc shape look much better. I Toy'd with the idea of making a custom front bumper the same colour as the car.

For anyone who gives a toss I thought of guys who are just starting out their project, here is the difference between a standard 1 inch lowered spring for a standard front end and one that is one inch heavy duty lowered for a hr front end
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No good being yellow. Got to be red. Goes faster ;D


Regards Wayne b

PS I ve been a bit slow lately. Getting there though.

Nice work Deano, you did a good job of manufacturing that A pillar bottom piece.
   Pedro

The yellows will turn blue shortly  ??? ummm yeah, I dont have the equipment at my disposal to do this stuff here with no shed, so its great to have some guru's helping with the build and teaching me how to do stuff that I never would have tried. It is quite an art. Im even going to have a go at this on the weekend.

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this is from the taxi, u can tell it was fixed in adelaide, had a west end beer can for reinforcing!

That is a very sad looking guard Dean, but judging by your other repairs it wont be a drama.
Your sheetmetal work is looking very nice, keep at it.

Gary.

Im determined not to get any help with the body at all and might do the whole job on the taxi all by myself including structure, but my builder is dragging his feet with the shed  :'( There is plenty other things I can do.

When i said about the body I mean repair work cos Ill need a booth and someone that can paint better probably but Ill probably have a go at the basecoats and let me panel beater mate be the judge.

Cool! What is it?

And what rack did you choose?

Dunno if I should say until I get it home in my possession. It's a v8, old skool, needs complete rebuilt, I got it cheap. The rack is vk manual, im looking for some hg stubs. I'm also looking for a vl collapsible steering shaft.

Forgot to say that I also got some hr drum stubs. Wb brakes are better than Commodore.

Nice work there Deano,make sure you hang the doors before you weld those sills on properly to make sure the gaps are right. ;) Jamie.

Thanks Jamie.
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Good job love your work.. :D

 ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? Ate fords better ??? ??? ??? ;D
   Pedro

Edited Pedster.

Deano,

Your rust repair work is a joy to behold.  The photos tell what the finished job looks like, but they always make it look too easy.  There's a lot of effort went into those repairs.

Rob

Yeah some good back country knowledge that's for sure  :D. Today I started on the guards of the taxi on the other build which are saveable but will need a lot of work. I can't do much else in the next few days with the truck and excavator so looks like I can get some more done on the custom guards. It's really all not that hard, just lots of cutting, grinding and wending and rubbing. I might start some engine work and design the dash. I'm really enjoying it that's the good thing. A bit of this and that  ;D

Scored a vl column and wiper assembly last night from radelaide, also a turbo 700 possibly as a swap item, a brake booster, vl wiper assembly, sourced the right switch for it too luckily, also bought some chrome bits for various trial fits.

I'd rather be working on my FE or FC today but my quad cam engine in the rodeo threw a timing belt.

Hey fe350,

1uzfe in a rodeo.. now you've got my attention!  ;D

Ive been comtemplating doing this to my TF, im already putting a 1uzfe in the 42.

any details on the conversion?  did you use a soarer rear sump or custom?

Cheers

Ed

quad cam, lots of valves in the wrong place at the wrong time, bent valves oh dear !!

Hey ED i think you will find its the stock 3.5l quad cam V6...

Good luck with that.. thirsty engine but goes hard..

Obviously not as hard as fe350chev thought. :D :D ::) ::)

ok ok, for a start, it beats most commodore utes off the line, its only a 3.2v6 but as hoon said, it loves revs, except when u haven't put a spanner on it for 6 years and the belts probably about 200k old  :P These were a bit ahead of their time in oz, in 97 98 they came out here all allow quad cam, pretty high tech for utes of the era.

But the beauty of these is that they are not interference so pretty much impossible to bend valves. ED, u taking the piss man? This has the oil filler on the wrong side  ??? and other things  :-\. BUT, if the motor does shag itself, its not a bad idea!  ;D ;D ;D

ahh didnt realise the std V6's are a quad cam.. never looked at them before.

no not taking the piss, will probably put a 1uzfe into my rodeo eventually.

I don't think a 1uz would have much torque though cos my duel cab is heavy cos the side steps are factory with full barwork supporting them. Also the 2 bars. I reckon if I went v8 I would go for a straight gas setup using a long stroke v8 and twin 420to 480 cfm impco mixers. High lift cam

Eds is a 2wd mini truck not a 4x4 Dean..

Oh how i like working on the simple grey compared to this quad cam!

Anyway, I have picked up myself a 327 chev engine, (which I never thought I would find in possibly virgin state), Feb 1967 which has a forged steel crank, because from what I understand, regardless if they were rated at 210, 275 or 350 hp, GM dropped the 327 in many of the passenger cars that particular year to try and sell their new big blocks (before the later fuel crisis) so instead of changing the bottom end (which is same anyway up until 68 on all cars except for the odd cam in performance models) with the crappier cast cranks, I am led to believe that if it's a canadian block, then they used the same forged unit as they used in the Avanti studebaker which ceased production in 1967 (I think but could be wrong). So, that was the main thing I was hoping. I think they went to cast cranks in the 350's.

It would appear that it possibly had a head job at some stage as it has blue rocker covers.

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Good pickup Deano, they are getting hard to come by. Pre 68 327's had small journal main bearing crankshafts. Later model 327's had the same size journals as 350's etc. I'm a bit confused as to why you are hoping that it has a forged crank if you are thinking of stroking the motor. A 350 is basically a stroked 327, (they both have a 4" bore) so if you are thinking of stroking a small block why don't you start with a 350 and stroke it to 383?
Regards Ole

Just thinking of options. Still not sure but a forged crank is something I will hang onto regardless.

More was revealed today. The bore is nearly virgin with 10tho os pistons, BUT, a lot of wear. Looks to me like it had a cylinder head gasket go and pumped some cylinders with water. I am not sure but it looks like a very early rebuild and I reckon it was only honed because the measurement is just on 10 thou overbore size on the non load side of the cylinder wall. Seems to me that there wouldn't have been enough tolerance for the piston when first installed. I look at the crankshaft bearings will indicate rough guide to mileage after the gasket failed or to determine my theory about the backyard job. I cant wait now to see what cam it has. All the numbers match but the intake valve is only 1.72' and exhaust is 1.5' with the 75cc chamber but with flat top pistons making it a definite Aussie "kit" L30 which is the 10:1 compression engine. It seems to have been running rich, no wonder with those smallish valves running a 750cfm and 4 barrel 350hp manifold. Anyway, I had fun with it. Ill give the grey block a bath and steal the engine stand so I can put the V8 on it and spin it.

Looks like the RB30 is out and the eight is in hey Deano, might have to change the name of your post ;)
   Pedro

If does then I will have to aswell. How do I do that?

You have to ask Stinky reeeealy nicely and if he's in a good mood or he got a bit last night he might do it. ;) ;D ;D
  Pedro

Does that work for ya?

Stinky don't do it for me  :P

Me neither  :-\. The new title does do it for me, but its gunna be a 4 speed now, T700 trans. Ummm, Maybe it should read "Deano's FE with Hot grey, maybe hot red, maybe stock 327, maybe stroked 327 with a new crank and alloy small chamber heads, maybe a 2j toyota, maybe a 1uz....". Na, I want old school look I have decided. I want a period V8 that would have been a likely option for a young bloke that wanted to do it up in the early to mid 70's, so looks like I am definitely sticking with the 327, perhaps with better heads or injection so your pretty safe there boys to change the trans and it should be about right.

I want a bit of a vote, who thinks I should do it original colours in 2k or that other blue/grey colour from the suzuki. They are the options I have narrowed it down to.

forgot to show uze this for my hot tanks etc.

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Okey dokey, today I finished the tear down on the 327. The whole engine I have been able to identify, except I cannot ID the cam so I am assuming it could have been different in the kit assembled cars here.

It has a forged early 67 GMT 4577 crank, the head is a single camel hump 22 December 1966 Canadian with the smaller valves, perfect for torque with a bit of very mild porting and enlarged intake valve to 1.8.  The Canadian block had original gm pistons, some marked with a 9 and some with a 10. I don't think they are .10 oversize because that is the size of the bore but haven't had a chance to check properly, but the block was made in February 1967. This motor was probably one of the earlier ones made at McKinnons and the heads were probably the same they already made for the Studebaker. The factory 750 carb with the 3905793 intake four barrel manifold would have been over carbved for this applicat, especially with those heads. Flat top pustons, The rod are C2 corvette forged rods.
 
I am very pleased that the crankshaft has been knife edged and drilled heavily for balancing and the bearings are standards on both big end and mains.

so basically its a virgin original engine which is kind of cool. I have a really good idea if what I am wanting to achieve with the build now.

It would be appreciated if someone could identify the cam, which may have been from oz. It has j30 and number 2944 on it. At the very front it has a single number 3 and the other end at the back it has a '&' symbol wtf

I think I know what WTF stands for  ;D  ;)

That's about it though, the rest is certainly techo. Cannot believe your attention to detail. Its great.

Regards Wayne b

Ha, the distributor was made on the same day as engine was cast Wayne, this gm stuff is amazing the way one can track everything down, so I would day its with a 275 or a 300 horsepower cam. its more of a torque motor for sure. I would like to measure the lift of the cam lobes tomoz to see if its a 30/30 cam. A high lift cam .450 to .470 and longer duration only on the exhaust port due to my intention to dedicate it to lpg (and I wanna raise the comp from 10:1 to 10:5 to one) this should allow better cylinder filling for the less dense lpg. This head, although not for high revs, which is not what I am after, I want take off and torque cos ill be running 15" wheels and 3.08 gearing, with the very small runners it has, combined with the low first gear of the t700 trans, especially in a light car, should be a great runner for my application. I would like to run a twin injection type intake plenum but I'd rather modify the bonnet with 2 old school square filters on top of 2 mixers, perhaps 300cfm each. Still racking my brain how to keep it looking minimal and still get a cold air intake.

Well folks. More good news. Originally I thought the bores at first sight were worn but turns out are virgin.

So, where are we up to. Dennis is a legend, he did an awesome job of the spot welding for the lip on the sills. The sills, doglegs, floors, patches in rear, chassis kit, front crossmembers, gearbox mount, and subframe strengthening and repairs are all complete.  ;D ;D ;D

So where are the photos then?

Been too busy with the taxi, just a quick update. I will take some early next week as I think the kids and missus have plans to go somewhere tomoz and want me to go. I wanna do decent pics with it flipped

Right, finally I got around to getting all the approvals and all the stars aligned to start on the new shed. I ran outa light to take more pics, but I dig all the trenches today and spread about 11 cubic metres of dust today. Will take some more progress pics. Havent had time to put up progress pics of FE but the FC is getting more attention ATM.

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The chrome was too bad to polish up on many bits of the FE  :'( :'( :'( pit pits and more bloody pits. So I have started restoring them while watching telly, probably and good way to attack this part, slow and steady bit by bit until my chrome chest is empty and all the chrome is stored ready to go on ey!

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Not sure how to go about this, whether to chrome plate just the mount, cos why draw attention to a booster, I think I would rather booster be baby bum smooth like the car firewall and continue a plated gold or chrome theme from inside the car to some components outside.
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You must be getting excited about the shed Deano, looks like it's going to be a decent size. 8)
  Pedro

Gold plating .

You gone loco essay.

Yeah Pedster, it's not really big enough but will do for now. It will be 18.3 long, by 7.6 wide and 3.2 or some crap high, slab is fairly strong being 500 wide and 500 deep trenches at the business end and 300mm by 500mm deep all round (and c entre trench) with overall thickness of 125mm. So will easily suit a hoist  :-* :-* :-* in future. The advantage of me digging and doing the cutting and filling myself is that I can use that money saved into putting in extra concrete  ;). I am not even Greek heritage but you would think so ey!   :-X

I recently did a demolition job where a bunch of greek market gardeners made a school playground and it was more solid than a WW2 bunker and the foundation buggered up my bushes in the excavator trying to knock the walls over.

Anywho, I am so pleased with how the floor has turned out. Now just about to tack in some speaker stuff and am thinking about the design of the fuel system for the straight gas setup. Thinking of a concealed filler cos of gas ones being considerable smaller etc. Also thinking of how I am gunna spruce up the chassis kit.

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Pete, the local Maccas kids like a bid 'o' bling mudda  :D ;)

Another thing Ive been working on is my potato rust solution extraction system, using its oxalic acid potential. This is a very good way of removing rust for more delicate items such as fuel lines and their protective shrouds (for removal purposes) or longer things that normal acids would stuff up. Its also useful for removing unsightly concrete rust stains. (Just cut a potato, smear / rub into stained concrete (cut face) with salt sprinked on as u go, dip in white vinegar and rub in again, etc repeating process for stubborn concrete rust). For long items per 4l of water mixture, i have found that if you put say 4 litres (trial quantity before filling with straight water to check capacity) in a long narrow pvc tube with one end capped and a screw cap other end, pre mix half cup golden syrup, with hot water (hot water speeds up any chemical process for metal stripping of rust  ;)), then add 2 tablespoons of the cheapest washing powder you can find, then cut up 4 small potatoes into four equal pieces (shape of potato chips) and skewer them at spacings of say 1 foot apart, which is a formula that will work with any potato type and any length. If you have a 6 foot length of rod or tube to do, add mixture first into pipe on its end, put 2 potato pieces at the bottom, skewer the other pieces onto it so you get equal concentration along the rusted part and before screwing the end onto the pipe with the completely submersed part, put 2 pieces of potato on at other end and then close it up with screw cap. Depending on the rust, check in about a week, this method will happen very quickly only after a given time of a week, usually the most work will be done after the reaction has occurred after 6 days. best to leave in warm sun to speed up process. All you do is flush item and brush it off when its done, blow off immediately and then hit it with crc or rust protection solution (preferably the paint prep stuff).


Electrolysis is not very easy on long things due to the size of the anode required, otherwise I wouldn't bother with this. This method is per 4l of water. If you can be bothered, better results can be achieved by adding a cup per 4l of white vinegar to the mix at the end of 6 days for 24 hrs prior to opening, but not necessary, but this etches the surface better for paining.

Anyway, Have a look how this nearly 50 year old manifold came up. I am so bloody happy cos there was so much water in this manifold I was worried it might have been etched by rust to buggery, but it had a good amount of blowby oil deposit too   :P, anyway I am not quite happy with that bit of stubborn rust so a day in my back yard electrolysis tank using mild methods (not acid) will get rid of that bit what is left. I think I will store this, its so good and the heads cos all matching numbers. I will file the gasket flange by hand.

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Got all my paperwork sent from the motor rego people and have all the specifications they want for the build, so it's been approved as a goer for the 327 conversion and now nothing can reverse the process that has started, I have an engineer lined up and just a phone call away from my chassis rigidity and snap test  :D. All the stars are aligning nicely.  The inspector came out from council and approved the pour for the shed, but the rain has put a stop to everything so hoping for pouring on Tuesday if trenches not too full.

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Nice one Deano. Good that you have some confidence on what you must do for the build. Gotta love that shed.

Regards

Wayne b

Hi Deano are those rare spares floor pans you used and if so how was the fit ?
Thank Gordon

Floor pans look good Deano, 18.3 x 7.7 not big enough  :o, that's a dream shed to the rest of us ;)
  Pedro

Yeah tis wayne, Pedro, I am told I have a big ass, so plenty of swing out room. The pans were quite good with the fit Gordon, but the sills need tweaking and if your modifying your gearbox crossmember, the replacements are not long enough, so now I will probably use them on the taxi.

I have two of everything but many parts on this build are not going back in so I get the keep the best stuff for my taxi build   ;D It also gets a bit confusing making sure i upload the right pics to which thread. I only have a small brain  :P

Today I ended up sorting out some parts which weren't much chop to see what they were really like. I also started to resto the Gemini brake booster and other things. The brake booster is a goodie, if I dip it, I won't need to take it apart I will just seal the bits that I don't want chrome or gold in  :D :D :D

Just to give you an idea of how well the potatoes work, I half dipped the old exhaust which had 2mm of crud and rust and gave it a quick rub with scourer and it gleamed pretty well, other parts I pulled out are there too, then I just put it on the plants after and they love it.

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I have shed envy.  :D
Regards
Alex

Up at 5 this morning and into it, not quite as early as Pete but I have no baby excuses......got past that stage years ago  :D :D :D

I slept in going fishing with the daughter bugger work.

Thats good Pete, they will be telling you where to go before u know it (well boys will lol) so enjoy while they are still cute  :o

This FE must have had a very bad windscreen leak cos the dash and panels are rusted and pitted to the hilt! So I started prepping this instrument panel as per my other build thread. I am not sure how good I can get it for plating so I may use the taxi one which is much better. The carppiest one will be painted cos its much easier. I have done the first stage of a 3 step process, once the pits are all out that I can sand or buff out, I will shape the pits a bit and flash plate it, then rub it all with some finer paper and either bronze the pits with the tig or solder them, then it should get easier from there.

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Here is my gear lever selector shroud that I have been restoring tonight. I will either chrome plate it or gold plate it depending on how it looks against the colour selection. If I don't like that I may even fake anodize it. This is the next step in the 3 step process of chroming etc for a show car finish.  This part looked real bad but came up good. If I had OCD I would get rid of the casting burrs on the inside, but lucky I don't, contrary to popular belief  :D

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Trying to get this reasonable as it may be my first piece once I set up my baths.

Thats some good stuff you have going there Deano, the parts have cleaned up real well (I'll send some parts down), must be a load off to have the slab done, bet you can't wait for the shed.
Regards Jim

Too right mate  ;) Hey, I did some experimenting to satisfy my own curiosity. I hear people talk about acid bathing bodies and bits. So I decided to do a fairly controlled experiment. See the two manifolds below, I used the same method of cleaning with both of them (hot tank setup using mild sodium hydroxide) but before rust converting them I washed them down thoroughly about 3 times with boiling water and scrubbed with detergent. Then I used straight vinegar on one (soaked initially overnight in quarter strength and water and I added some shower power lemon acid), then I scrubbed it down tonight with the straight vinegar then washed it thoroughly with a brush at least 3 times. Straight away I doused it with crc and rubbed the crc in well with my hands and then dried it.

I did the same process with the other one except for the rust conversion stage, which I used a solution that was neutral PH 8-9 which is neutral to alkaline and using electrolysis for a day at 6 volts and 3 amps current and a de-oxygenated solution in the water, as soon as it was done I washed it in the other sink 3 times with the same strength soap and water and again soaked in crc bla bla bla. Both done a few m9inutes apart.

I was actually quite surprised myself with one aspect of this considering I had crc'd both directly after washing and drying them. The pics were taken about 15 minutes afterwards.

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The one with the orange on it I nicknamed 'old vinegar tits", she came out beautiful but there was a lot of smell with the vinegar in the laundry where I soaked it, plus who wants acid anywhere, and I had to wear gloves while scrubbing. It required a fair bit of scrubbing to get the smaller bits of rust off. But see the other one, cleaning is always a bitch with these cos the metal seems to sweat and soak up oil and old fuel in rinse processes. Anyway, I definitely know which one I would prefer and it confirms to me why I would never use acid dipping. It's obvious that I could have not sprayed the electrolysis one (the one that looks less brown) but just rinsed it down and wiped it dry and it still would not have developed flash type rust. But vinegar tits, despite being dried and doused with CRC continues to brown up as I write. Also, when electrolysis is used its just like washing mud off (easy and no gloves). So I know which methods I would prefer.

If anyone wants me to replicate this on 2 mild steel pieces I can, but it would be cool just to rinse them both in bicarb once and then try them and see what happens to the metal in 3 hours to replicate the time it would take a shop to hit with paint using both methods.

Im too lazy to make the mix up. Bead blaster is fast but very harsh I can think of a lot of things this would work on especially copper bus bars in our switchboards at work.

Deano the chemist next thing you will be looking for a pill press ;D

Funny how these tossers in Melbourne are happy to pop pills with drain cleaner and sulfuric acids at a club then they spend all week being self obsessed at yoga, gyms and having herbal teas through the week. Just sayin'

Theres a market mashed potato acid mix in a pill. :D

Bloody good idea, I could sell my secret recipe to KFC! Royalties could pay for the build so I can watch some other b#$@%$d do it. Your a genius!  :o

This arvy I started making my bush electrolysis unit down in the paddock near the chook shed. I always knew that running ethernet and power etc down the back paddock off the chook shed would come in handy for such improvisations. Here I have it ready for solution tomoz and fitted to the bumpers with brackets still on. Its easier just to do the lot in one hit with bracket on then the nuts spin off easy. I decided because of how badly rusted these are that I would do one side at a time, any old chrome or paint on the back will come off with the rust, then I will take brackets off and do the chromed side with a different mix. Ill use a submersible to suck the solution out later, but I have other items like my incinerator and other long items to do in here also and Ill whack the 2 engine blocks in there too.

Got a bit of mesh so the cat doesnt go ass up in the mix (thats what the tyres are for) and have power source inside the tyre for insulation and raised and covered from any rain. Jumper leads are good to use cos they are insulated and can separate brackets from the copper tube so it doesn't short, but doesnt matter if anything catches fire cos its down in the paddock  ::) ;D, I insulated other bits with hose reels (a great shape to separate items from cathodes and anodes and a plastic bag  ;D.

This cos me about $4 using what I had.

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Plastic bag, jumper leads and a cat,all you need now is a battery ! ;D

Bad boy bubby style
 Be still bumper bar
Be still. ;D

Hope there are no earthquakes.

Projects a few years ago, dato 521 and 620 utes.

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(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/521pic2.jpg) ($2)

There's so much going on!

This was my father in laws transit van from New. We repaired it and sold it. (http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/SMDC0165.jpg) ($2)

Hey Deano those old Daddo's are selling for heaps now, all the young blokes go crazy over them.
   Pedro

Yeah too right. But I suppose they were more opportune type things I did so I wasn't bored, knowing I was doing the subdivision myself etc, sort of sucked knowing it would be hard to commit to something and have no means of storage and I got them for bugger all, the white one was a lot of fun cos was a paddock bomb for some time prior. I took a photo of the shed block and I put a big car on (my ford can sit outside for all I care  :o, u can get 3 BA's in side by side but would be a tight squeeze (enough to get out of one side each), but 3 fe's side by side would be quite easy, especially if they are rolling. To the right (in pic) it is stepped down so that anything going in and out is basically straight out with bugger all fall, that's the end that will be facing east and more of a working end with a yard so i can hide all my crap from the missus's view  :D, with the lhs facing west and will be for larger things or whole cars being finished that can be driven in, then I would like to do a double garage lean to, type thing coming back towards the camera (in side shot) to put the caravan in and have a section in between for welding, blasting etc, so like a prep and finishing area for all sorts of projects. I put in 8 ton yesty of roadbase and compacted it and a further 5 ton on other end but Ill get the grader and grade it all up nice after its finished. I have also run 6mm tps cable to the paddock edge for a future shed for implements and chemical storage etc. This is the one I hope to have a truck/car pit.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0847.jpg) ($2)

I fixed the buggy guard that I ripped off the other day by being a little over zealous in the mud.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0854.jpg) ($2)

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(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0855.jpg) ($2)

I did a lot of earth moving last few days, dug out and compacted base for where I want the lean to part extension of the shed to go (missus and I are in slight marital bliss over this proposal).



So btw sorting stuff, restoring stuff and the shed and organising my sons party today with 7 kids coming, I might need a bourbon Sundy night  :P

Leveled this side this morning. The reason why the power is coming in at about a metre in is cos there will be an access door where the little ramped bit is and a walk through storage room that can be locked. Inside I will have power board and 12 volt transformer boards for all the garden lighting and workshop LED lights, possible solar inverter (later) and a computer mainframe and engine diagnostic jigger (later). The house is smart wired so I have computer cables to run next week to the house when I put the stormwater trench in (to the house with a diverter) to the dam, that way I will have the ability to use phone apps to automate certain shed functions when I am away, i.e activating CCTV camera's so I keep an eye on things such as electrolysis setups, you name it, whatever needs to come on from wherever I am by having wiring setups menu'd for off and on, a bit like watering timers. Should be all pretty cool when set up. That would enable me to be inside and use an ipad/tablet to say turn on the compressor to do something little like pump the kids tyres up cos i plan on running air lines from the shed to the home garage and other points to be able to use more air tools later on cos they are more efficient.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0856-1.jpg) ($2)

This is a before shot. Im quite impressed with the result from just an overnight bath and no acid yet, especially since this was not the side I was focusing on, it was the rear. Anywho, I took the bumper out just to see what were looking at and to take the brackets off, which will come off dead easy now.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0771.jpg) ($2)

I just rinsed them off and the front bracket is down to bare metal and basically all the rust under the Nickel has completely stripped the back side  ;D

It's great cos there is basically no chrome on this bar just nickel, except for the bumperettes which often have better factory adhesion due to better electrolysis being smaller parts

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0911.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0911.jpg) ($2)

A very light scrub with scotch-bring shows nearly all rust has gone, but in water not ideal being only 10 deg, should be 20-25 deg but a good result nevertheless.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0914.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0913.jpg) ($2)

The last shot is the telling one, the rust was trying to lift the nickel as per the dark rust colour, so most people would have plenty of rust under seemingly good bumper bumpers  :P despite no bubbling. I might just give these a quick buff with wire wheel later to see whats really sticking after dismantle. Then Ill try a flour solution with some acid to try and use minimal environmental impact ingredients to see if the Nickel will lift, while i do same process to see what the other 2 come up like. I havent even got to the Nickel stripping as I was only focussing on the steel for easy of removal and wanted to do an engine and other parts before i change the solution to a stripper.

Latest reseach has indicated that Chrome is actually dissolved to neutral by using sugar. But I have a large drum I prefer to pour all my waste into from the initial stage (chrome is the worse thing, Nickel can easily be dissolved and neutralised, but i still prefer to capture it and use proper methods to get rid of any "potential" contaminants.

You can see the top of the bumperette still has chrome by its bright appearance. The plate bracket was equally rusted in the example as this one i just cant be bothered looking for the other pic.

I ordered some custom springs to be made in Adelaide for the FE, extra leaf and a few other mods. Will be interesting when i get them (any day now) how they compare to the standards. Then I will see which springs out of the four remaining that I will use for the taxi.  ;D

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0933.jpg) ($2)

So you can play spring pong?? :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

 ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D

Now that's how a rebuilt set of springs should look Nice one Deano.
   Pedro

They look good Deano, where abouts in Adelaide were they done?

Cheers Stewy   8)

They are brand new with no change over. I used to send all the truck springs there years ago. Industrial spring makers, in Adelaide. All orders are custom quoted to your requirements.

http://www.industrialsprings.com.au

See some if the spring apps. These guys used to make all pedders stuff and lots if aftermarket. Not sure now.

Thanks Deano  :)
Some good info to check out.

Cheers Stewy   8)

Forgot to say before Pedro, I couldn't breathe properly earlier cos I was laughing so hard at you ping pong joke. I've only just recovered enough to reply  :P

Frame will be up tomoz.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0945.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0944.jpg) ($2)

ooooh!  8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0946.jpg) ($2)

I carted concrete to that shed floor. Small world.

We should catch up then mate  ;)

This car was from Pimp.

Ok. I don't remember seeing it. Who did you buy it off?

It was ages ago, I got it off a bloke in Horsham from the Old Skool Hot rodders.

Sheds nearly done. Ive nearly got my back right with plenty of rest. Good spraying weather soon, look out!  ;)

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG0949.jpg) ($2)
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Heya, Thanks Pedro for the lights  :-*, much better than what I have.  ;D Let me know if ya need anything.

Also, today I was somewhere for something else and the bloke knew i was doing an FC and said "would you like this guard with a great peak. His price was spot on so I grabbed it. Haven't paid him yet but he knows a bloke who knows me and the deal was done.  ;)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/IMAG01621.jpg) ($2)

Hate to tell ya Dean but those lights won't fit that guard. They come from the other end of the car!!!  :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I selected another possible colour.

Having trouble with deciding a colour still. Decided a blue or blue grey similar to modern Toyotas etc.

No idea what the colour is but it looks cool 8)

Regards Wayne

I'm being worse than a woman in a handbag shop picking a colour. I actually don't mind Mazda aqua blue.

i find it the hardest thing to do in a rebuild.

Sorry fellas, haven't been able to do as much lately, found that the the disc degeneration is all up in my neck too and apparently my leg going on me is c7 nerve compression, I even have spinal chord trouble. Lately I have had heart regulation issues too. Could have "postural orthostatic tachycardia syndrome", kept passing out. But had a heart monitor for 24 hours last week and should get some results soon. Just dizzy, numb arms, vision goes queer if i bend up and down or stand up.

Anyway, cos i havent been game to push through pain lately in case its a heart/lung thing, I have been focussing on other things. I hope to get the ole 56 austin truck running tomoz. I have started fitting out the shed and have decided to sell my ute, kart trailer and caravan. Then I will have an all 50's garage!!! What isnt there to like about the 50's trucks, push out windscreens, bonnet straps and split windows.  :-* :-* :-*

My fave colour too.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/Austin%20Truck/IMAG1894.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/Austin%20Truck/IMAG1896.jpg) ($2)
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(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/Austin%20Truck/IMAG1895.jpg) ($2)

Take it easy old mate. Hopefully you can gat back into it shortly.


Regards Wayne b

Your a walking FE holden you need a rebuild by the sounds of it.

Good luck get better soon enjoy your updates.

Get better deano. brett

Stop bein a sook,get better and get back into it ! :-*

Hahahahahah a
What he said

Yeah gotta see a cardiologist cos my heart dipped to 37, 40 and 42 beats so yeah your right I'm like an fe with the dwell wrong and misfiring bahaha.

Sounds like my 1950's garage. Fat fenders & split windscreens. Your Austin looks in good nick.

Those pulse rates are great if your training an endurance horse.

The old Wolsley looks to be in good nick Deano, better spend some time looking after yourself for a while first though by the sound of it mate.  :) :)
   Pedro

Yeah the truck is in great nic, I got her going the other day, engine just needs the usual, plug, points, leads. Ill be changing the fuel and put another lot of oil in before i start it again. Its a very nice old truck with minimal rust that's for sure.

Hey fellas just an update on my own restoration, I think some of you know that I have had a rough trot when i was a kid with the lungs collapsing etc, well I started fainting and carrying on recently causing me to knock myself out a few times. Anyway, went to a cardiologist in Radelaide last week. After many tests and 24 hour monitors, it was found that I have Postural orthostatic tackycardia syndrome/neurally mediated syncope maybe damage caused most likely when I was a teenager during my lung reduction surgeries for the emphysema. So basically my hearts accellerator gets stuck, either too slow, like 37-47 beats, or too fast, it also controls bladder and many other functions. So I am now medicated and they finally got the bp (boost pressure Pete) under control, but the bloody hear rate still slips into the low forties high 30's at night and skips beats etc. Anyway, at least now with my heart monitor at home I can control it. Basically everytime i stand my heart rate goes up 30 to 60 beats.

Take care of your health first before your car mate. I wish you best of luck with it all.

Order some bigger injectors
get them sewn into your veins plug in a haltech run you up on a walking machine to make sure you are not running lean
 voila your cured.
Enough of the jokes take care..

pete

Pete has a frame on CAD ready for the water jet  ;D

Take care mate

Been doing bits and pieces still. Got the new shed pretty sorted, so I'm hoping to start posting the progress again.

What no bite from Pete and my comments???

Good to hear your back at it, take it easy though, health before cars.
Jim

Started cutting out the rear guards and chipped out all the crappy sealant etc from the ass end.

GWS buddy! :-* :-* :-*  :-

Thanks for the update mate.

Hope our health is improving.

Regards

Craig

Good to hear you're back into it mate, you starting to get on top of your health problems now ??
   Pedro

OK. Just a quick update. Ive saved up for a good compressor. I plan on doing some of my own blasting. Been gathering parts still but progress has been slow cos of some other priorities but The house is nearly finished so I hope to get a few projects going again. Cant do everything as once lol but these cars need to get going!

Look forward to the updates starting again... And some pics of where they are at too!.

Pretty cool I got my 15 amp plug certified today on 6mm tps and I got my paddock and back yard power rcd'd today too. I wonder if I'll notice any difference.

(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/IMAG1862.jpg) ($2)

Wow you say your 3.5 hours from Melbourne , well so am I. I live in the wimmera do you live anywhere near there at all cheers frankiej.

Yeah. Your new on here aren't you? I'm not far from Nati

Thrown another curve ball last week with my boy having emergency appendix surgery. Btw the 3 of us, we are the equivalent of a car lemon lol. There is still progress happening. Now with the shed wired and our new house fairly much complete, I'm hoping to get in the shed more. I've got to cut the bottom rear quarter out and replace, cut the rear boot lip out cos it's rooted and plan the fuel tank. I would like both cars to be at the same stage soon in terms of all the structural repairs being completed. It's good cos many parts that I won't need on this car can go to the taxi to get it going so there's advantages and disadvantages to doing 2 at once.

Yeah baby. With this bit of gear here for the weekend, were gonna cut sick on the blasting. I wish it was mine 😃😃😃. Parts cleaning has been the go this week. Boring but now most stuff is all at that stage. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/d83b84eb1c44bbad40670117fce35cf7.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/b9737c6d0e7b0b5f268964845a2cebc3.jpg)

Yeah. Bloody good. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/c8bf32dc424f736e8f944a55d23ef90d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/495e9a0f8344c96b8f3149d1b692adda.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/2af7b48e8fd8bd3d59078e8995c657de.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/fbd88206774adca0bd4b9b7a01d0fa7e.jpg) (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/3e43dd9e5b7f53c9455b54d268f9637d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/8afbd93be87eae1e3b0075b81b1e246c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/1f7548773ac8ed96f3e3398973fa129e.jpg)

Omg. Look at how good the rest of the car is. The floor was a train wreck but the body is awesome. Can't judge a book by its cover that's for sure. Haven't needed to use soda yet cos it's very thin paint and is working better with pressure down and keeping a reasonable distance away. I don't wanna use soda unless we have to.

Looking good Deano. How before primer?

Regards

Wayne b

Here's with primer, the other pics look like primer but have been blasted. Pretty much near perfect condition for age but having only around 400mm of rain per year (we only had 270mm this year) helps.  (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/597ccb0dfd3bb329a27b33e4218604dd.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/781d4060c69c2e5942a20dbc9d9767da.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/d7c59b6e7343f94c1d50df8e158cc676.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/46a994c18942b10dc5b3d3f0a1912acb.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/d1dbcbcded8e44c9c5087cdd71dc5c71.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/635a11482ec683809ff051bf989e6ea7.jpg)[IMG]

Thanks to Luke the farmer who has lots of blasting experience for not ruining anything.

Very nice & solid. How did the front peaks look after all the years of dust packed in.

I blasted the guards ages ago. The ones on the taxi were full of fly screen and terrible. I have new ones and I'll be welding them in soon. I found a better guard recently and I'll be doing that one but not sure if it will line up that's all. The first lot of pics of the rear qtr's were done carefully cos Luke said he did a Porsche and gt xy falcon recently and they turned to bugger all but looked top notch and the owners swore they were good lol. Sees mine and wary as hell but was one of the best 50's cars he has ever blasted. So once we knew it was good he did another pass with fine used grit before we primed. Did gm use lead to joint the rear quarters?
(Edited and added July 2016):
That peak you were asking about. This is worst taxi one. FE ones need less work.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/P1010287.jpg) ($2)
Heres one that I got to replace a really rippled one.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/IMAG01621.jpg) ($2)
I got replacement peaks.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/IMAG0910.jpg) ($2)
Bumpers bad.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/IMAG0913.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/IMAG0771.jpg) ($2)

I did some painting today. Did half of the inside behind firewall and up under the dash and some of the inside rear. I don't like leaving normal primer for very long. Still going to tidy it up with some rubbing before  final finish. Trial fit chassis kit etc but this will keep it protected in case of delays(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/a9ab26ab0e40f6acd4f292a05eed1989.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/1105aea24598bd06da3d94bb64f9c71e.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/ab075c37f06155f62ef0669d79dae48d.jpg)

Before pics
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/83b445080dfcc224a6d516ced88c00f8.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/2804881a848b331110e0c51369a3613b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/d9d947aab72424b5bceef68b4693cf69.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/1dff156732c1a5334419de60d80c626d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/60e620af0ad6e4ba49b19db634742e49.jpg)

So, keep in mind that none of this whole job has been grinded to this point. I prefer to dremel or debur them. Then I will block and rub down then seal everything. A lot of work went into fabricating patches. Should look good when finished. I am really happy with the clean sill lines. But now I need to repair the front subframe of the other car. I wasnt going to do much to the taxi but I'm an idiot and have bought new floors, front crossmembers etc. Now my focus will go to fixing the guards for both cars, putting in a larger fuel tank in this one, welding the brackets onto the scalloped (nearly finished) hr front end for the refurbished rack and sorting out the steering column. Soon I will set up some baths to get things to copper plating and solder stage so I can work on little pieces here and there.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/247b100f76a0c6c0066be2afc42a16f6.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/7c50ca7985a9a9c54316a8b54a8fa795.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/de37303a148fd656ab8950c596c734fa.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/d17c56d40fb48fd1cd837c75b9b7c564.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/7de7d2161b572e200c5bed261b120960.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/16/0300333cc6c16166130c2046b8a00e9e.jpg)

Very A-La-Natural.
Rats & snakes come with it?

Looks fantastic Deano, keep up the good work. Jamie.

Ha ha, yeah there's plenty of snakes around here out bush! Thanks Jamie. It's good to see your still watching what's happening.

Look fantastic, its a good feeling to get to this point, I know just how it feels.

Yeah thanks. Especially before Xmas and I've got most of the parts clean or at a stage where there's not grease and rusty parts laying everywhere. Feels like I will be working with a clean slate for next year.

Did some more tonight. I sprayed over the inside with some old paints that I had. I wanted to spray it ultra runny right into seams and edges. Mixed some Shitty gmh black with some epoxy one pack primer (not etch) for this. Took a pic of the sexy spot welds before the bituminous paint. Then I sprayed the back section and under the dash a bit more with the bituminous chassis black. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/fe0b8d302beb6d2238a4f0c9e8859580.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/cadd62cb3d59b6b1b34f0f8ceebf936d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/673c189f7c1613340feeb8b903fec7d5.jpg)

Looks the part, clean work place now.

😁😁😁😉😉😉
Dont forget I got the FC taxi, so not clean yet. So I will grind down the butt welded floor later but I wanted proper paint on it cos I dont like leaving stuff in primer unless its epoxy sealer. No point doing that now cos I will fill the pin holes later whilst doing body panel work.

I got some Torana flutes yesty. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/28/43269e8703d58e981f9518991626db32.jpg)

Hey Deano my mate Luke does a great job with his sandblasting, he does all my work for me and it saves me endless amounts of hours...and your car looks Awsome mate a great body to start with that's for sure.
Cheers Frankie.

He is better than others around that's for sure. The only thing wrong with him is he is a cocky! Bahaha! Just kidding. I'm outnumbered unfortunately

Just a question for anyone who has service bulletins for colours. I would like for someone to please comment on when the colour and interior combo on my car began and discontinued pls. I would also like to know the colour mix for 2k or acrylic etc. Basically I thought through ignorance that the Breton blue was very popular but I was getting it mixed up with elk blue. Seems that the Fj was more common in Breton and teal. So I did some samples of newer metallic greys and blues and I'm thinking I like the interior in the original colours but it doesn't match the exterior. I don't want grey in a 50's car. So I'm now thinking of doing Breton blue but in the darkest shade of it possible without going outside of it being confused with other blues. I think some have faded more than others. I got thinking about all this when I saw a pie chart showing this colour is not all that common as I thought. I think as time goes on, retaining a true 50's colour will be better than going to modern colours but I'm pretty hooked on a new Toyota colour I found too. I suppose I've evolved from going retro tech to wanting a pre 70's mod job mainly on what you don't see but trying to retain the period body styling. I'm not sure why I am changing but seems like the way to go in my conscience.

Dean, I checked your car details in my computer and it dates your car to early December 1957 which places it very nicely in the range I described in the other thread you posted. That is Teal blue over Breton blue ran from mid September 1957 to January 1958.
Unfortunately I don't have the bulletin for the period January to May 1958. My database suggests that the combination did not continue past January because I have no recorded 1958 cars.
However I have found that the combo also ran for a batch in 1956 as well.
I have the bulletin for the list of colours that the first batch of FC's came out in

Anyhow that combo is quite common - I have 21 cars recorded. But not as common as teal blue over elk blue - 38 cars recorded.
ken

Yep, I remember when I bought the car thinking that it's not exactly the blue I was after thinking it was a sky blue but it wasn't until hoon posted his fe up that I realised that I had the one I prefer. It's all a matter of personal taste. I didn't realise how hard it is to find a good interior combo. But I've decided whatever I do I will now be keeping the original colours on the inside (unless the exterior clashes badly). It's good having the fc in complete opposite red and black too. I remember you saying about the fc having the later style rear seat pattern. When I take the fc seat apart I will be taking pics to ask Stinky whether it is original or whether it's been refurbished. I can't imagine it being a taxi so long without seat trouble.

I put the vs tank in the car today. It fitted very easy (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/15/fc8a9b4a07b47b2e1cf4c3029efa77dd.jpg)

It's backwards....

Lol. I'm majorly sorting stuff and preparing spaces to strip some more old panels etc. So it can sit in there for now. Just picked up the tank Tuesday. Is it easier to cut the straps out and graft them in or just get the straps and do the step. Are there a few ppl who have used the vs tank for a sedan?

Well I am one. NO room for exhaust between the leaves either

Yeah I noticed that. Did you do an exhaust exit behind back wheel? When I posted this I hadn't looked at the vs mount properly cos it's not here but it's fairly simple. I'm wondering if anyone has used just the vn syphone pump by itself or whether I'll need to run an inline pump too. If I do run injection it will be aftermarket and will have an inline pump used to be compatible with the injection system. I was just trying to be funny about putting the tank in.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/17/2c977db5805887a3acb5dfdd1dfbd699.jpg)
Like this

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/17/a282ff4901e15adbcc386914f9430b88.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/17/b44dafcdc3b06cecd541f9727b97f78f.jpg)

Ok. Thanks for that. Sometimes it's a bit hard to keep track of all the builds. Sometimes btw yours and JB and Hoons various projects etc I forget finer details.

I have been busy though sorting my rack with a few mates down the road. So the vk rack shortening is underway in that we have one there nearly complete as a blueprint. So using their machining gear and skills they will cut the rack at each end, sleeve it in the centre (full length) and drill, machine and re thread it etc.

At the moment I've got both diffs adjacent each other and I borrowed a vy ss 18" x 8" wheel with 48p offset just to see how it compares with the 15" interceptor and the latter seems to be the go as in central with the original wheels but it's more to satisfy myself to check that it goes together well and measure. I've got so much stuff everywhere doing 2 cars and a truck, so have been sorting all the trims and started cleaning them up but the handy thing with 2 cars is that I have the taxi down the road at the workshop as a roller to trial fit the scalloped and strengthened hr front end and rack/column etc. So got new bearings for the diff and starting to think about handbrake setup. I'll put the b pillar nut in too, using the one old 'old oldens' in Lonsdale use. I had a tour of their customs workshop and got some cool ideas.

Frankie is trying to get me the Austin wiper motor so attention and I found a VK intermediate shaft and the guy wouldn't separate the rack so I scored it for a fair price and now one less thing for him to find.

Focus has also turned to the booster setup which I picked up a good xb master for 10 bucks to go on the Gemini booster. The picks above help cos I need to sort all the brake and fuel lines out. Might get some of Pete's or whoever's clips, so cleaning those up. Trying to get some body work finished on my acco tipper and finishing any earthworks with the kobelco on the new block so I can sell them. That will free up some funds to progress the taxi ahead of this one. The taxi will be ok cos I can use the stuff I don't need from the low km fe on the fc. I reckon I'll just slap a cheap bottom end together myself just to get it going for rego but using the Weber and sonic setup. Tomorrow I will look into getting the axle sorted on the shortened side and from a guesstimate it's gotta be about 45 to 50mm (just a rough check with a golf cart tube he he) longer but the wheel fitup is what I was eager to check myself.

Starting on the tank mount too. There's too much to mention btw the 3 projects. Been up til 5am the last 3 days cos kids are home on holidays. I have a much better idea of what I want out of the builds now. But I got too many things :-[. So selling the caravan too cos the kids are older now and we will just hire them when we want that style of holiday.

No worries.

Tip: Although some questions are appropriate in the modification help section you could ask the question in this thread to keep all Your stuff in one area and to show how you got from one idea to the next or how it evolves telling more of a story within your thread like above.

PS, you only have a 5/8 and a small tube on top of the VS tank. This is what I have with all the reduced number of lines up and down the fuel neck. There is an earlier varient with another small pipe from the top of the tank going to three small breather tubes on the neck and to canister.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/20/cac1de524741b33e0d4eb5e983ab24be.jpg)

Yeah and yeah. I need sleep tonight!

I did some pics for people who are doing their current builds and are considering a shortened BW diff for the rear. I set it up with the old diff on same table to demonstrate to some of the guys who can't grasp the technicalities of various offsets etc without a visual. So here I have the diffs centred to each other as if they were a mirror image in relation to the spring mounts. The first pic demonstrates how much bigger the long side was before narrowing the housing (using the original long axle). (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/920db85759976390ccec252a6bb285d0.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/3f9f75800b58a64b4051ba86c318b10c.jpg)
Note when doing these comparisons and sending people pics that usually on phones the camera lense is offset so you must centre the camera lense to the intended centre points on your wheels.

This is a standard interceptor rim, fitted with the usual 28p for IRS. I don't wanna get into the specifics of what it's from, it doesn't matter cos it's demonstrating much better than rear shallower dish steel wheels in this comparison anyway. So with everything centred and even, the first pic is the 205/65 r15 steel rim with 28p offset. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/ccf1c48431e9700a24edae0442559cc2.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/49346f7da92086008b0f5aecf8eac25b.jpg)
I put a standard hr 13" wheel on top of the rim to demonstrate better how the tyres line up at the bottom.

Here I have a borrowed VZ SS Commodore wheel that's a 235/45 r17. The offset of this very shallow dish mag is 48p. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/bab88358887e29df3caea5908bcc100b.jpg)
I hope this can help people who were trying to visualise what the different offsets translate to in real life. If you want to get the wheel further towards the diff end inside the guards, you just have to choose rotors that allow for this (just one way of doing it) but if you want to set up a steel wheel closer to the inside, then most should be able to get more modern BMW, Land rover or VW wheels that have bigger offsets than both VS/VL or VT steelies etc. Hope this helps.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/dbcfcce78bb6b98a78979ddbff740b5f.jpg)

Ok, this is the front end I will be using for this car. It's gusseted inside with 1/8" plate for the vex part. I'm going to blast it and put the new springs in that I have in previous pic.  It's going in the blasting pile. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/8245522984b62d941a4070a7d0e1bcc0.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/cf84ef762fa9527fb05c590a32f6fd90.jpg)

So you are going to use a front mounted rack reports say that they are not a very good conversion even though I know a lot of people have done them there disadvantages have been discussed many times.

Neil H

No I'm not having a front mounted rack. I'm using the centre of this one. We are currently shortening the vk rack and about to make the brackets for the rear.

My front mount is great   :)

We used to spend hours putting these front ends back to original so we could modify them properly . This is why people are so unhappy with front mounted racks . Haydn

Yeah I'm too young and haven't had an old Holden pre 76 before these so I am neither here nor there but the guys I'm working on the car with to use their equipment reckon they have done fronts and it can be done properly. Once we do the rear mounts I'll whiz it home for the blasting. It's hard to find an engineer who will pass a front mount though in Adelaide

Looks nice the Chevy colour. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/25/dc832a7979a1d71d482795431a0b1095.jpg)

It's a great colour.

Yes it is.

Your mechanic looks keen.

Yeah he is a bit older now and not as keen, but my 15 yr old is keen now. I think he sees a potential chick magnet. I'll have to go cruising with him and hide in the back bahaha.

I would like to clarify a point I made about 1 month ago . I was not referring to all front mounted racks .I was referring to badly modified front ends in general . Having said that ,there are issues with rear racks [ length and position of rack[[bump steer] ,intermediate shaft ,recessing top uni., and steering arm length and curve inward ect [toe in on turn] . Front racks are difficult to fit around the outrigger [ as most know we would lower the top edge of the outrigger so the rack went over the top ] the swaybar mounts [saddles ] we would turn around and capture another nut inside the subframe further forward then weld the mounting points on the lower wishbones so the swaybar would be forward enough so as not to interfere with the steering rods[rack connecting rods] . The rack mounting needs to be adjustable to allow for stub axle and steering arm variations . The length of steering arms will dictate the speed of turn [amount of steering wheel turns]  ,and the amount of extra teeth cut on rack . The position of the rack against the cross member determines the length of the rack . Now, the real issue with front racks is that the ideal position of the tie rod end would go very close to the disc rotor centre . What I mean is that the tie rod to the stub axle centre  position on front steer would be diagonally opposite that of the same on rear steer, and this can be seen obviously on LC,LJ Torana and HQ,HJ steering toe in on turn . I was originally using a std., LC torana front end on my Vauxhall as it was the only holden front end that was narrow enough . But first time I tried to turn the steering on loose gravel the outside wheel full locked and the car went straight ahead [as they did back in the day] so I immediately went back home and changed the steering arms to LX torana [also moved the upper control arm position backward] . I think holden did the same and called it RTS . I don't blame engineers for opting out on geometry that they struggle with but , I still believe that quality front steer can be achieved . Cheers Haydn   

Hi Haydn
I know you have had a lot of experience with conversions so not having a go at you but I think the comment that rear racks have issues is only true when people try to use all sorts of fancy configurations other than the ones that have been tried and true, same with steering arms.There are plenty of comments on the forum regarding all sorts of issues on both front and rear so I don't want to rehash it.

As I've said before I run a V6 Conversions modified VB - VH manual rack, HR steering arms, drop spindles, HZ WB rotors and Girlock calipers I have no bump steer and a good turning circle and a good positive feel to the steering.

You detail a lot of modification to have to do to fit the front rack and I assume if the semi skilled try to do this sort of DIY could be dangerous if it is not done right so I agree with what you say about badly modified front ends and to my point that this applies as much to rear racks as much as fronts.

The only person that I have ever spoken to that says they have sorted ity out is Phil Hutton in Busselton WA he has spent a lot of time sorting the front rack he has pulled it in really tight to the x member and apparently solved the problem of the bump steer etc but I am still going to fit a V6 Conversion rear rack to my EK ute I'm working on simple because of the ease of fitting and my knowledge of fitting my sedans steering that it actually works.
Regards
Neil H

Hey guys I'm doing a rear rack. So could you reduce the size of the 2 posts a bit pls to the technical aspects of advantages and disadvantages if that's ok. Thank fellas. I know your aim is to try to help. Make sure you pull me up too if I do same.

Might want to dial that back a bit Deano, You yourself drop sometimes very unrelated or obscure comments (that sometimes I just don't get) in the middle of threads like the comment in my thread below.... All info I had already given. Sometimes we go off on tangents as I have as well - following the discussion - on an open forum.
When my build thread FINALLY gets to the completed section I will be getting it cleaned up so as it is a nice easy and good read.
PS I can't stand the Bulldogs  ???

X2

Lol. That was my attempt of humour NES. I don't expect people to ever understand that! I pm the guys and I changed the wording of my original post. Sometimes the tone and words aren't quite what you intend so thanks for alerting me to it maybe being interpreted the wrong way.

For those who have done a v8 sbc conversion, do you know where you can buy dummy engine blocks?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/p-ayr-products-replica-long-block-engines ($2)

Thanks Ol_Girl_58. I'll look into it for sure.

The rack was finished a little while ago and we are about to make the brackets. Soon I should have the front end together so I'll update then. Have been doing but n pieces as I can but have the shed fairly sorted and have nearly finished the house off so planning to have a decent run in spring.

OK. I have started planning the radiator and did some more work on the subframe. I bought some single stay 2k paint colours and I have narrowed it down to a few blues. Funny how most young people want original blues or very similar but I am still thinking a metallic or pearl blue. Not sure if anyone is interested in seeing the sample, but I love this particular ppg blue, close to original. I have disassembled the grill and the frame is to be blasted (I think it's this one 😕) and I stripped the chrome down to nickel and getting ready to reverse plate some bits. Set up to solder the pot metals and have set up a metal polishing station with three separate bench grinders.

So considering that I robbed the bumper mount from this car and the beautiful rear seam below the fuel filler will be donated to the taxi so as to keep that original, I will now be altering the bumper, narrowing the ends to hug it into the car. I will custom make new mounts both sides and lot the bracket, making the bumper adjustable somewhat.

Work continues on the adaptation of the vs fuel tank mounting. And I have decided to do a coilover rear suspension. I have an idea from an iveco truck for the rear end and suspension but don't want to get ahead of myself. Been gathering stuff and doing fiddly bits in the background.

I made an inner boot section/wheel house corner because it was rusted out. I have seen a few methods on here to do this. I made it bigger for a start and am contemplating whether to butt weld it in place or just put it over the existing good piece at the top with an overlap cos i figured if it has weld through primer behind it, the area might be a bit stronger that way and saves time.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00053_zpsyv1uequj.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00060_zpslmleaiyb.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00061_zpsenapqfka.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00064_zpstsjk7xia.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00067_zpsx2sburzs.jpg) ($2)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x448/fewithrb40/FE%20Holden%20Project/fe%20project%20body/DSC00068_zpsvhx1qwxh.jpg) ($2)

I bought a new welder and have some more parts to start working on the cars again. Good to see some familiar faces still at it. Dedication!

Sent from my HTC_0PJA10 using Tapatalk

Well, I still have not given up on my cars.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Hi. Is this forum still active? I have my cars in storage and haven't been on here

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Yes but not very….
A lot of people gone to Facebook I suppose. This is still the source for good information and sincere encouragement as far as I’m concerned.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree with you Clay the forum needs to be keep alive so that all the great info doesn’t get lost and can be referred to as needed.

Gidday Deano,
Hope you are well.
I still look at the forum nearly every day, with a few other die hards.
Long live the Forum.

Cheers Stewy  8)

I couldn't agree more with the previous comments.

This forum has been fantastic!!! The willingness of so many people to graciously and genuinely pass on their knowledge to others has been fantastic in keeping our passion alive and well.

I to visit the site every day and have seen the drop off over time. I get disappointed when I can't read everyone else's posts.

I don't do Facebook which is a choice I have made because of the work I am in and having seen many negative outcomes with others in using it. I know it is a great communication tool and maybe I need to move with the times. I can see the post in the Facebook page, but I don't think it has the same level of "community" that this page has developed over a long period of time.

I hope the forum has many years of happy sharing ahead.

Cheers Rod