FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

I don't have a photo of the one owner FC Wagon as yet, but I can tell you all a bit about it.
It's a Special and the colours are a two tone green, Dutches green & Pine crest green, the interior is black & green.
The original number plates are still on it,was last registered in the 70s.
The car was bought from Charlesworth Holden dealership at MossVale in April 1959.
It is still in the original condition with no accessories except for a right hand guard mirror.
The car has done 62.000 miles.
At this stage that's all I know about the car and that I should be getting it before the end of the year.
For those interested I'll keep you posted.
Regards.
Leon

Hey Leon
Congrats on digging up what sounds like a nice score.
Looking forward to hearing and seeing more on this one.
Have you had a chance to see the car in person yet?
Regards
Alex
ps. If the thought of owning an FC becomes too much to bare, just sling the details my way, I will take care of the rest!!  :D ;)

Sounds like a good'n Leon,
Hope to see the progress and final results.

Regards, Smooth  8)

Sounds like a goodn,just proves that they are still out there.
Cheers
Deano

As Alex suggested Leon, an FC! sounds a bit too modern for you, anyhow, if you need a hand getting it home, let me know.

Sounds great

Cheers, Gary

Hi Leon,
Let us know if you need any assistance.
Cheers,
Graham

Thanks all for your comments. ;)
Today I called in at Martins clutch & brake centre at Campbelltown and dropped off the spare set of wheel cylinders I had laying around to be re sleeved as well as all brake and clutch hoses to be made up so when I do get the car I'll have most of the parts I think I will need at hand and then there's the Master cylinders, I'm gonna have to wait till I get the car.
Any suggestions as to the do's and don'ts regarding Engine start up  :-\ as it hasn't been started since the 70s, It's been garaged all that time.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards.
Leon.

Leon,

Things to check will be all the rubber suspension parts. These will more than likely be perished, so at a minimum I would suggest a set of shackle rubbers, I would probably replace the spring pad rubbers as well, and while I was at it I would also replace the shock rubbers. The shocks will need to be removed and given a good bleed to work the fluid through them and to ensure that none have seized. The brakes and clutch hydraulics you are already on top of, I would change all fluids, ie diff, gear box, check steering box to ensure that the lubricant hasn't gone hard, Give the car a thorough grease to ensure that each area has fresh grease. In regard to the radiator, remove the cap to check to see if there is any fluid in there (Unlikely) check the tubes to see if there is any sign of crap caught in the tubes, if there is, remove the radiator and have it serviced. there will proably be a lot of crap in the engine block too, It would pay to pop the welch plugs out and give the whole block a really good flush, the more time spent here the better. A coolant filter will help too when you first get the car on the road, that will catch any crap and you will be able to remove it at the filter, before it gets into your radiator.

In regards to the engine lubrication system, I would drain the oil, refill with good quality oil, remove the distributor, and an oil gallery plug. I would use a cut down screw driver that fits into the slot on the oil pump. A variable speed drill here works best and slowly spin the oil pump up so that the oil system primes itself and you get oil coming out of the oil gallery. If it has a remote filter then if you remove the element, and clean the inside of the oil filter resevoir, you will see the oil starting to run into the filter resevoir. Once you have oil into the galleries, either reinstall the oil gallery plug or reassemble the oil filter, using a new element. Then give the drill another workout for 20-30 seconds to ensure that oil reaches the rocker gear. A torch in through the oil cap should indicate when you have oil up in the top end.

While the distributor is out, set the gap on the oints, ensuring that the contact face of the points is clean. If not, either clean the points or replace them. Reinstall the distrubutor, ensuring that the oil pump gear is engaged. It may be necessary to turn the engine over by hand to ensure that the drive is engaged. Remove the spark plugs and squirt 10-15 mls of engine oil into the engine. At this point, as you have established it has oil pressure, wind it over on the starter with the spark plugs still removed. Have an assistant hold a rag over the engine along the spark plug holes to catch any lubricant that comes out. Ensure that the oil light goes out very quickly when winding it over on the starter. Reinstall the spark plugs, ensuring that they are clean and have the correct gap.

I would clean the fuel system out, drain anything that is in the fuel tank, pour some fuel into the tank with the drain plug removed and check to see how much debris comes out. If minimal the tank may be left in place. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank and the pump. Give it a blow out with compressed air. Check the flexible line to see if there is plenty of air coming through. If not remove the flexible line to see if the inside is perished which could cause a blockage. If still not much air work your way back. Remove the glass bowl from the fuel pump and clean any debris that may be present. Remove the top of the carburettor and check the float bowl area, ensuring it is clean from debris.

Fill the fuel system, I would use about 5 litres of two stroke, to give plenty of upper cylinder lubricant and crank it up. sure it will smoke for a while, but this will ensure that the valves are getting a little bit of oil and this will assist in ensuring that the piston rings have lubricant as well.

Once you have the car started and have it running, use some fuel with upper cylinder lubricant to ensure that the valves dont stick at least for the first few tankfuls.

I hope that these few tips work for you.

Keith

 :o Thanks Keith for the time you've taken to put all this valuable information together.
I will follow whats on your list, I have printed it already.
What you suggested makes a lot of sense and could save me money.
Thanks again.

Actually I think that response should be saved somewhere for further questions that will get asked about starting a grey after many years of storage!!