FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

G,day all, just been sorting out what goes where under the bonnet and I was wondering how much of the pollution gear i need to fit, do I still need the charcoal cannister etc. I don't recall seeing one on any other car fitted with a modern engine.
          Pedro

Pedro you need to have everything that the donor engine had  including  line from fuel tank to charcoal  cannister.......FC427......

Thanks once again Mark :), where would be the best place to buy the fuel and brake lines, and a pipe bender.
    Pedro

Pedro most spare part shops and tool shops have a universal bender  [CHINA] that will do 3 sizes of tube 3/16'' brake line  1/4" clutch and 5/16" fuel for around $30  that should do your car no problems ,I have much better quality benders for all the stainless steel lines I do ...Your local brake shop will sell you a small roll of 3/16" 10meters long  for brake lines he should also have 1/4" for some of you pollution lines but don't think he will carry 5/16" but may be able to order it in for you  ??? ???....FC427.......

Thanks Mark, I figure I'd better get them done now before i put too much stuff in the way.
              Pedro

Yep,

Technically you do as FC 427 has said.

I have also been advised by a NSW RTA technical advisory section member that in some older engine re-fitment applications that working pollution control devices that are no longer available new from the OEM manufacturer don't have to be fitted if it can be demonstrated that the OEM manufacturer is unable to supply that part due to being no longer being manufactured.Most of these pollution control parts are deemed to be non working in second hand form after a set number of years so they do have a finite usable life.

Some GMH pollution control parts for 1980's engines are no longer available new anymore so that would not preclude that 1980's engine fitment to be knocked back for rego due to non fitment of unavailable pollution control devices.Of course this would vary between state to state and inspector to inspector as to their interpretation of "the rules".

hey pedro, mark is spot on the money but check your RTA to see what they say. as far as lines go i used plastic coated copper LPG lines for fuel and return ( rego boys were ok with copper as long as it is secure, LPG is under more pressure than EFI ) beauty about copper is you can bend by hand. for the charcoal cannister i used the original FC fuel line with the canister mounted up under drivers guard, pretty simple.most brake places will be happy to flare the tubes for you to, i have bent lines up and walked in and got them to flare and put the nuts on for about $5 each.

deano

Thanks guys, so far I've managed to get the commodore pipes to fit underneath I just need to modify the rear a bit, I'm going to make a pipe straightening tool in the morning and i bought a bending tool for $20, the next problem is remembering what went where ???, think I'd better start checking e-bay for a a VL workshop manule, do I need to fit the overflow pipes connected to the filler pipe ??? as there's no room to on a wagon, good idea putting the charcoal canniste under the guard Dean between the steering column, brake booster and battery box I was wondering where the hell i was going to put it.
              Pedro 

with the fuel lines i ran both of them up against the floor along side the chassis rail, and the line for c/cannister was in the original fuel line position.
dean

G'day all, OK, all the lines are in place, fuel pump and filter painted and mounted, but before I start welding the spout on the tank I need to know if I have to weld on the end for the screw on petrol cap or is there a sealed cap similar to the original type that i can buy?, I know the wagon is not going to be stock underneath but I'd like the old girl to look standard on the outside.
                Pedro

Good work Pedro I reckon a talented guy like yourself could use the screw on cap [non vented] and sikaflex an original cap to it so all look standard ....Silver solder would be a better method  as not to burn the platting on the filler neck  ......FC427......

Hi Pedro, if you have a look at my thread in becoming real cars (My new project) you will see that I have welded the original filler spout end to the VP filler neck. That way you have the restrictor and the associated breather pipes and the FC filler cap all in one. If you need any more photos let me know. Cheers, Jack

Just had another look at yours Jack, it came up very neat and tidy 8), unfortunately on the wagons the filler pipe threads up through the back floor so I'll have to use the FC one and fit the restricter to that, does the original cap pass with the restricter fitted though, doesn't it have to be sealed so it can't vent into the atmosphere?

Good work Pedro I reckon a talented guy like yourself could use the screw on cap [non vented] and sikaflex an original cap to it so all look standard ....Silver solder would be a better method  as not to burn the platting on the filler neck  ......FC427......

There's a business oportunity for someone, start making screw on caps that look original ;)
                   Pedro

hiya pedro, i have done pretty much the same as jack (fc fer me) in i used parts of the Vk filler neck and used the end section from the FC so if you look at the back it ( cap) is original. they guy who did the neck for me included the breather pipe and overflow outlets, i also had him install a restrictor in the neck to help reduce fuel coming back up the neck during neckbreaking acceleration ;D ;D ::)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/smithy59/P1010005.jpg)

you can sort of see in pic

i dont know what your wreckers are like up there but have a look at some other fuel tanks and see if there are any longer necks that can be used. the only reason i went commydore is simply because i had swapped some parts over with my wrecker ( just holden).
also note on some of these newer cars inparticular tray back utes and 4wds they use a rubber section from filler neck to the cap area.
may pay to give your rego authority a ring to see what they say. might save a few headaches.

other ways you can do it is to use a filler cap assembly from a bike tank this will give you a sportier look but also lockable similar ones can be found at ship chandlers for ue on boats, use the flap/door from another model not just crappydore and the you can stick with the screw on cap. also earls www.earls.com.au  do a realy nice older style lockable cap called the aero range but not sure on price.

cheers
dean

Thanks for the input again guys, I'm planning on having a go at it tomorrow so I'll let you know which path I end up taking, it all depends on what fits and what doesn't.
                        Pedro

hi pedro, i had another thought ( 2 for the week, i need a rest now ;D )

given the option i would have gone for a tank from an XB ford, yes i know its a dirty word but the tank is a very good shape ( similar to crappydore) to fit into a sedan and the bonus being that the spare wheel space is set into the tank. maybe from an XB/XC wagon you could be lucky, not sure but worth a looksee. the other option though not as big capacity is to weld/ solder a return line into the FC tank easier than cutting your floor apart. as to fit the commy tank as you know i ( read keith)  had to cut from the rear beaver panel to the axle hump

dean

Hi Sir pedro

i used a VL sender with a V6 commodore pump  strapped to it $44 off e bay as its a lot cheaper than low and high pressure pumps for a vl
return line was standard pick up line that was it .
charcoal canister sat in the boot looking pretty and the pipe lines went down in the inner guard thats where they ended shonky i know but it passed.
But origanlly i put the canister in the engine bay and did it all by the book.