FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

I was taught to always put bog on bare metal and i always have done, so does everyone else I've checked out, the guy at the local(and only) paint shop was trying to tell me you should always put the bog on top of the etch primer as if you put it on bare metal the chemical reaction makes it sweat and causes rust, doesn't sound right to me ??? ???
                                  Pedro

Pedro there seem to be a changing trend as to surface preparation for COLD FILLER [Bog] as a lot of the new light weight body fillers with styrene  adhear well to an etch primer or redbrown primer surface  ...If the conditions are damp or humid it has always been mandatory to use a heat gun or other source to remove moisture from the surface before application of filler you should have no problems putting filler over bare metal as you have done in the past . I have done work on cars that I repaired 20 years earlier to find no trace or rust under the filler  very important to get repairs done quickly and primed, I  have also seen the results of when some repair there car out doors over a few months and pull tarps over them and wonder why the rust started under the filler ???. Hmm  must be porous ... :o...UPOLL  SMOOTH 7 is a good heavy weight filler to use with excellent pinhole technology  .......FC427......

Thanks again FC427, you've helped me a lot during this rebuild, looks like I'd better buy you a drink or two at Orange ;), the bog he recommended is u-pol fantastic(not that there was a lot of choice), moisture shouldn't be a problem It's been that hot and dry up here lately and everything is kept in the shed, so looks like I'll stick with the traditional bare metal way.
                                        Pedro

Pedro get it to Orange and I buy you a drink ;D ;D .......FC427.......

If these offers of drinks for keep coming Pedro (I owe him one too!), somehow I think we'll be using the back of little van as transport for him up there - unless Gary's taking the ambulance there specifically for that purpose!  ;D

Now I'll have to make it to Orange if only for the free drinks ;) ;D ;D, a couple of other people owe me drinks too so i should be right for the night, better bring that van Kathi :D :D

While we are on the subject of bog, I haven't bogged over lead filled joints before, any special treatment needed or does bog stick to lead alright.
                                   Pedro

I'm having a little trouble with the bog, I'm only mixing up small amounts and i get it on before it starts to set but if i put what i think is the right amount of hardner in it stays sticky for a while and it's better left till the next day for sanding, if i put more hardner in before it starts to go off it gets full of tiny bits of blue crap like someone sanded some plastic and threw it in, which makes it unspreadable and i have to throw it.
              Pedro

Pedro if mixed in the right ratio your application time will be only a couple of minutes max [You need to pick up speed } .....and remember when you are applying it always in one direction don't pull it back over itself ....and when mixing, mix it in the same direction with your applicator  pushing down hard to get all the air out as you go.... Hope this makes sense .......FC427........

I guess he's in trouble already  :P

           
               As long he don't CRACK  all should be OK .......FC427......

Si Senor by thee time i meex eet and have my siesta sheez already gone off, AYE CARUMBA

Thanks again mark, I was almost tempted to thank you in advance ;) you've helped me out so much already, I presume the blue lumps are the hardner going off but I've never had that happen before, normally it just gets stiffer and starts to ball up when it's too late(I know I'm leaving myself open with that comment but i can't think of a better way to describe it).
                        Pedro

Jumping in with my own question, is it OK to mix with less hardener and wait longer for it to go off, or is there a specific reaction that needs to happen?

LOL, sounds like you have bigger problems Pedro... ROFLMAO!!!  ;D ;D

Or was that just taken out of context...

Gold! you just said what everyone else was thinking.

Stinky You can use a little less hardener  but only to a point as it has to have some where near the required formula [mixing ratio] for the right cataletic reaction to occur.....I only use Wurth or Upoll smooth both heavy weight fillers not the ultra lite .....others may have different preferences  ??? ........FC427....

Stinky, the visual image just cracked me up... should we go back to topic LOL

 ;D ;D ;D Sometimes when you have a stiff problem you just have to take matters in hand and a solution will become obvious ;).
                     Pedro

what do you use for bogging over pinholes in welded panels?

I normally POR 15 and seam seal the back of the repair before applying a heavier fibreglass bog to the repair.

Is there a quicker way? 

or just tidy the pinholes with more weld?

Cheers

Ed

Hi Ed ;D I like to butt joint with the oxy try to stay away from any overlap joint on panels only asking for trouble down the track even if you seal the overlap on the inside it never seem to last as long as a butt joint ....A lot who use the Mig seem to end up grinding the surrounding panel thin  to get the weld flat and it is difficult to panel beat with the hard weld the mig produces ...{Not saying that this is the way you perform}  ....FC427.....

Hey Mark,

I never overlap panels either and butt join all my panels as well, however I use a MIG. I do alot of tacks to keep the heat down but there is the inevitable pinhole from time to time.  I then grind the weld flush.  Using a light behind the panel I check for pinholes.

Anyway I remembered I had a tube of "POR PATCH" witch is POR15 seam sealer, so I used that to fill any pinholes. saved me a step there.

Cheers

Ed


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Pretty big pinholes there Ed ;),

Yeah I figured do another round with the welder, the thought of it was making me feel lazy...