FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Question to those people out there that have used an injected 5 liter and would like to know what accelerator pedal setup that you went with.

I am in the process of doing weld repairs on the floor sections and would be a good time to decide now with what set up to go with.

If the standard setup is not used then I can take off the original nuts from the floor and weld up the holes.

If you do have a stock or modified setup please sing out. I am at the stage where it is much easier to fill holes and make new ones as the shell is on a rotisserie versus on the ground.

Thanks   Michael

(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/hannemcnc/August2007013.jpg)

I currently have the popular modified commodore pedal setup.
But I am not happy with it.
When I get time I am going to try the Mitsi L300 accel cable setup that hooks up to the original pedal, that of course is to suit a 6, so I am not sure how you'd go with the 8.

Great choice of motor Mikey   :D

I used a pedal from an HX V8, a universal type cable, but not using commodore throttle body.

The pedals are probably the same for most of the HQ-Z range but cant say for sure.

Just had to cut the arm above the pivot to appropriate length, welded together and bolted the bracket to the floor.

Simple job took about 30 mins or so.. easy if you have your car on a spit.

Have you got your motor in yet?

Cheers

Ed

just a thought..

you could do something clever and make a cable pull that works from under the floor...  no unsightly cables in the cabin!

something (in principle) like this would be cool.
(http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/products/throttle_assemblies/images/cable_closeup.jpg)

Cheers

Ed

Thanks for that feedback.

Must admit I like the look of the cable pull from down below, relatively easy to turn up some pieces and slot them out, nice easy bent bracket and to modify an original pedal. (Which I don't yet have in the box of goodies)  :-[   When you say it quick it seems so easy!

Would be nice if the donor motor cable and tube is longer than needed, if so, could just get the ferrule swaged on at the correct length when it is all sitting in position, still adjustable of course.

If not surely there are people who make up cables just like this.

Ed, don't yet own a motor, have been price watching for a while now and it seems that for a complete donor motor including wiring loom, computer, alternator, fan etc seems to be $1500.  Would be nice if there was someone I knew that just smashed their car.

Saw one not long ago that had the above with a tranny with a 2 stage shift kit in it, again for for $1500. Obviously these will need a freshen up as most are at the 200-250 km range, want a 5 cog swapper anyway.

Did have an FC with a red motor, discs, 4 speed in it as my first car and don't want to go down that track again, nothing wrong with that though, do  really want to bing the drive line up to todays standards injected wise. Yeah can put in V6 but want that bay filling symmetrical clean 8 look. Expensive though, no doubt about that.

As always, two seconds after you post you think of something else. I have heard that the firewall join (lap joint??) needs to be folded down as the left bank sits quite close. Is this what any of you guys have found?


Michael

Mike i recessed the firewall and moved the motor back for more radiator clearance and to make it easier to run the exhaust out.

the left bank (pass side) using the CRS kit will just clear but some clearancing may be necessary.. if you're using the EFI motor, you will probably need to as it will be almost impossible to get the rear valve cover bolt otherwise.

Easiest is to fit a motor and see how it is.

Cheers

Ed