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Building a warm Grey
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Topic: Building a warm Grey (Read 2966 times)
Fast_Eddie
Senior Member
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Posts: 909
Body by Holden. Soul by Fast Eddie.
Building a warm Grey
«
on:
September 14, 2003, 11:00:48 PM »
0
Hello,
I'm looking to put together a warm Grey motor for my FC van.
It runs the original three speed crash box, but has an HR front and rear end.
Ideally, I like the power of say a standard 179 red motor, and driveability is paramount. I'm not looking to build a speedway engine.
Can anyone assist me by helping me prepare a "spec sheet" on an optimum combination, with regard to head work, bottom end mods, camshaft grind etc etc.
Alternatively, someone may know of a "Grey" expert in Sydney who I can have a chat to.
I have a set of Jack Meyer headers, a dual Stromberg manifold, a couple of 138's and a lightened flywell as a starting point, but it is a clean sheet from there.
Thanks
Edward
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Spinner
nsw-club
Senior Member
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Posts: 639
Whitewalls - more than 'just' a way of life.
Re: Building a warm Grey
«
Reply #1 on:
September 15, 2003, 11:39:45 AM »
0
Go to teh House Of Motors in (I think) Rosemont St Greenacre/Chullora. They've been around for many years and know their way around a hipo Grey.
Cheers
Spinner
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(0414) 49-6706. d5461 on Ebay.
Ed
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Model: FE
Posts: 3311
Re: Building a warm Grey
«
Reply #2 on:
September 15, 2003, 08:13:12 PM »
0
Hi Ed,
I can highly recommend Terry at Dominator Engines Guildford.
I had some machining work done for my V8 and this guy knows greys.
Dont know about a warm grey but maybe a hot one? lol
phone number is 9681 3462.
Let us know the outcome.
Cheers
Ed
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in the shed
twitch
Junior Member
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Posts: 61
cant go past an FC
Re: Building a warm Grey
«
Reply #3 on:
September 15, 2003, 10:22:09 PM »
0
hi
i suggest you dont use twin strombergs as i have set them up on my grey and it doesnt run properly. i have a waggot 70/30 cam in it and you cant get the motor to idle any lower than 1000rpm, and cant get the air/fuel ratio right. i soon will be putting triple su's on and shaving the head to get compression up and this should make the car run properly.
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FC's rule
craiga
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Re: Building a warm Grey
«
Reply #4 on:
September 15, 2003, 10:57:32 PM »
0
Hey Twitch,
A 30/70 cam, because of the cam overlap, will mean that you will have to put up with a higher idle speed, but you're right that 1000rpm is a bit high. The twin carbies, if set up properly, should do the job no problems. Have you set up the carby mechanical balance? You may be trying to get it to idle only using 1 carby because the linkages are out of adjustment. You can buy a carby balancer from any auto parts shop that I reckon is a necessity if your running multiple carbies.
You should also check for air leaks around the carbies - spraying carby cleaner around the carbs when the engine is running will quickly show up any problems here.
How about the electrical side of your engine - low secondary output due to a faulty coil/condensor/HT leads will also lead to a "weak" idle.
Triples have a better chance of make the car run smoother because of the more even fuel distribution but there's no reason to dump the twins just because you can't get them to idle. If set up properly they WILL work.
From what I have seen written on the forum it may be worthwhile talking to Jockster - he always has knowledgeable comments on matters like this.
Hope some of this helps.
Cheers,
Craig.
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Jockster
Full Member
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Posts: 227
Old Holdens never die they just go faster
Re: Building a warm Grey
«
Reply #5 on:
September 16, 2003, 11:59:26 AM »
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Hi Twitch
I am running twin Strombergs on my red motor, which coincidentally runs a 30/70 camshaft. This motor pulls strongly from idle right through the rev range and it idles quite happily at 750 rpm.
As Craig said it is importatnt to make sure that both throttle openings are matched and the easiest way is with a mechanical balance shaft. The other thing to be sure of is that both carbs are the same and fitted with the same main jets and power valves, many Holden carbs appear identical but are not and if they are not correctly matched yopu will never get a happy setup.
As well as checking for leaks around the carby bases, also check that the intake manifold is not loose or warped and if you are running a brake booster make sure that it doesn't have a ruptured diaphrahm, even a pin hole will make it suck air.
Good luck whatever way you go
Cheers
Jock
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Cars are my life not just my work
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