Spectrum rubber had this material available in a range of thicknesses though it is minus the flap I beleive

                       Hope this helps
                              Frank 

Are you refering to the rail that pushes the window up and down or the rails either side in the bottom of the door?

G'day Mike,
     Do You have a timing light, and if so have you tried it?.  Another problem could be a vacuum leak, ensure all your pipes are tight.  The points gap should be between .012 & .016in the engine should be running at 480-520rpm for correct setting with a timing light. 
        To align the distributor have the ball on the flywheel lined up with the mark in the cover ensuring no.1 cylinder is on compression then insert the distributor into the block. You will find it will pick up the worm on the cam and end up past or before where you want it to be so you will have to take it back out and reinsert it turning it back or forward a tooth so it will end up where you need it to be when in position, which is with the points about to open for no.1. If it won't go right down you may have to turn the oil pump a little to let the drive tongue into the slot, with the distributor out insert a large flat blade screwdriver and turn in the direction you need and reinsert the distributor.  The points should only just be starting to open on no1 turn the distributor a little if necessary and ensure both the hold down bolt and clamp screw are tight.  If this is right the motor should start and you can complete timing as above with a timing light.

                               Hope this helps
                                     Frank

       A garden hose is no where near as effective as a pressure washer when washing out blocks and heads.  also did you check that the holes in the new head gasket lined up with the water jacket holes in the block properly as this could also be effecting water flow if they are in the wrong spot or not thereat all.  I struck this a couple of years ago on a motor though it wasn't a grey. 

                               Regards
                                    Frank

Thanks Lizard

G'day graham,
          The best way is to mix the paint in a clean container and not in the pot and add it to the pot once properly mixed about 50/50 would be the norm though I have found that paint consistencys do vary at times so a little more or less thinners is sometimes required.
          As for gun pressure this depends on the type of gun being used.  For a general purpose low pressure gun 30 to 40 psi normally works ok and an acrylic gun 35 to 45 psi I find gives good results. 
          Do a test run on a piece of tin or old thinners drum.  If the paint goes on heavy and runny more pressure is required.  If it goes on dry and alot of overspray is evident the pressure is to high.
          Your gun should also have adjustments to vary volume of paint and fanning the air adjusting these will also help minimize overspray and runs in your paintwork.

                              Hope this helps
                                        Frank

What FCOV6 Said,  however if your floor doesn't have an access panel you may not be able to move the transmission back far enough to clear everything on the back of the motor and drop it down.  Place a jack under the motor with a block of wood between the jack and the sump to spread the load of the motor.  The block of wood must be wider than the sump.
          Place a trolley jack under the transmission, this will allow you to move the transmission easily on wheels and you will just have to check clearances and lift and lower both as you go.
         Having everthing supported you can easily put it back and put a couple of bolts in should you find you don't have enough room.

                                                Hope this helps
                                                          Frank

Flush all the stop leak out of the system as you may be restricting water flow somewhere and if your confident you have no leaks you don't need stopleak anyway.  The temp sender in the block could also be faulty so if you think everything else is fine replace this and see how it goes.
         If the light still comes on you must have a restriction somewhere slowing waterflow to the back of the motor.  Check or replace your radiator cap to ensure that the system is holding correct working pressure as this can also affect water flow as they are quite a low pressure system to begin with without losing any.

                                           Hope this helps
                                                    Frank

give these people a try http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com

Would this supplier also make the recoil spring for the manifold hot box?

                                Thanks
                                    Frank

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago with a M20 4 speed.  I also had a reco shifter but in the finish found the gap in the gate shifter allowed the stick to move out enough to select reverse and second at the same time and lock the box.  You need to adjust the gate alignment 100% and possibly biuld up the keeper that stops the stick from clipping the gate beside it on changing gears.

                                Hope this helps
                                         Frank

Hello,
    Check that all your vaccum lines are tight and check both timing and float level

                            Hope this helps
                                       Frank

Using the rares rubber you need to stretch it as you go while installing it then lubricate with rubber magic or similar and keep the boot shut for a couple of weeks for the rubber to settle in
                hope this helps
                          Frank

Restorers paradise on the gold coast sell repro cards not sure of their no. though they do have an ebay store
                        Hope this helps
                                    Frank

My suggestion would be to find another front subframe for that side as the rust may be more extensive than it appears. 
                                                           hope this helps
                                                                 Frank

I also use a mastic type sealer as is agood seal and easier to remove tank if necessary than sikaflex
                                             cheers
                                               Frank

I'd take a couple of sets if they became available
                       Thanks
                              Frank

Hello John,
     This guy at Toongabbie remanufactures carby gaskets and may be able to help
         D.Page
         83 Cornelia Road
         Toongabbie NSW
         Ph. 02 9631 5748
                    Hope this helps
                            Frank

I'll be there if all goes to plan

If the one you fitted runs a wider belt this balancer is off an FX/FJ as they ran a B section rather A section belt.  JDM industries in Victoria does harmonic balancers ph.0394385291.  Rares also do a reproduction balancer but they are not the same as original.
               Hope this helps
                        Frank