TorqueFC
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« on: November 21, 2005, 09:08:52 AM » |
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hi guys. i didnt really know where i should post this so i thought here in the mod. section would do.
we are about to rebuld our second grey motor, and just need some advice on what to do/not to do.
we have just striped down an ek motor and have found that evrthings standard.
frst thing, how far would you recomend to take out the bores?, i was thinking .40thou over, is this ok?, can we go further>??
as for bottom end,
with the head, we want to fully shave it, fully port it and fit 202 valves, does this sound ok?
with the bottom end, we were going to get the crank reground, and balanced, is there anythign else that can be done?
wat can be done to the conrods?
are pushrods available new? if so where from?, and do lifters come in oversize>?
with pistons, what are the types that are available? and who can supply them?
what flows better, headers or extractors? what brand etc
why do they lighten the fly wheel?
i tihnk ive just about covered everything.
any help is greatly appreciated
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"
in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2005, 09:36:10 AM » |
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I'll have a go, but there are probably some grey gurus who can help too.
1. IMHO don't bore unless you have to, the cubes you do gain won't be significant. 2. Shaving the head basically raises the compression, this will be achieved with new pistons. I'd avoid it. 3. Porting is OK, you will need to find someone with grey experience and/or a flow bench. 202 valves maybe too big, smaller valves keep the port airspeed up and give you more torque. Torque is what you need more than HP on the street. 4. Not sure about the crank. 5. Destressing the rods is the first step, I did my own starfire rods for my 202. A sanding wheel on the drill and got rid of the casting marks and smoothed them out. 6. Not sure about the pushrods, pistons and lifters. 7. Headers and extractors are the same aren't they? Tuned length for performance, interference for ? They will probably need to be custom made. 8. Lighter flywheel lets the motor spin up faster, but it also means less inertia and can make the car difficult to drive.
That's about it for me and I am sure I will be corrected on somethings. Good Luck.
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fccool59
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2005, 10:28:47 AM » |
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It depends pretty much on your budjet and personal requirements. will it sit in traffic? will it do long trips? are you dragging people of at the lights? drag racing 1/4 mile? how much time do you have to rebuild the motor? how long does it need to last? are you building it to a period look?
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2005, 10:38:20 AM » |
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we just want it to be a fast motor :D:D:D:D
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"
in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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fccool59
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2005, 10:55:03 AM » |
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Are you after something like that fuel injected, supercharged fj in the vic club gallery?
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2005, 11:04:14 AM » |
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i wish !! maybe the next motor this one will run tripple carbs and either headers or extractors, but we will see! whats the link so i can have anotehr look at that fj??
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« Last Edit: November 21, 2005, 11:05:24 AM by torquefc »
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"
in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2005, 09:14:49 PM » |
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thanks leon/stinky
but can anyone else out there give me a second opinion/help on the abo questions?, we need to info quite soon as we want to get the parts before christmas!!
regards Darcy
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"
in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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