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Author Topic: Rear main bearing oil seals (yet again)  (Read 2403 times)
Errol62
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« Reply #20 on: February 02, 2019, 10:49:06 AM »
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Think I must have stroked it to 3.25”. Damn....


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ipg
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« Reply #21 on: February 02, 2019, 03:43:23 PM »
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overachiever  Cheesy
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Errol62
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« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2019, 04:07:47 PM »
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If only


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ardiesse
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« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2019, 08:30:17 PM »
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This is becoming a de-facto "engine build" thread.
My six replacement piston pins arrived from JP Pistons, and I got Jack at KC's to replace the small-end bushes and hone to size.
Solved the piston-ring compressor problem in a couple of ways: scrape a chamfer into the top of the cylinder bores, and then install the piston rings one at a time.  I got numbers 1 and 6 in, and then while installing the top ring into no. 2, thought, "there doesn't seem to be much of a ring gap."  And so I did what I should have done before installing any of the pistons: put a loose compression ring into a bore and measure the gap.  Sure enough: 0.006", at which point the alarm sounded.  The ring manufacturer suggests 0.0035" per inch of diameter gap, which comes to 0.011".  Both compression rings needed the gaps easing, which I did with a needle file and a Texta.  Number 2 now has correctly gapped rings, but I have to pop nos. 1 and 6 out far enough to remove the compression rings, re-gap and re-install.

And one of the 5/16" sump bolt holes at the front of the block has a stripped thread.  It's probably best in the long run if I heli-coil the hole.  I can probably use the sump itself as a swarf-guard so I don't get iron filings into the crankcase.

If there was a "slow" award for engine assembly, I am guaranteed to win.

Rob
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my8thholden
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« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2019, 11:23:15 PM »
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Hey Rob ..Don't ever think that checking everything as you go is " slow" ,there is no prize for first or last when doing a Holden Grey engine ,I am so happy that I share the same desire as you ,I don't want to fuck it up ,I want to build this thing back to its former glory ,its a shit of a motor ,but I love it ,its in all our Holden veins ,if it was easy it would be boring ,why do we go to the trouble ?..because ,its our passion ,its a love of satisfaction not reward , there is a heap of guys on this forum who have extraordinary skills ,but still post their achievements ,I am going to guess why , " pride " , " recognition " , " confirmation "  ..who knows .." many are dead but Holden lives on .." I'm going to bed ..cheers Vern  ..
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ardiesse
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« Reply #25 on: February 24, 2019, 09:50:44 PM »
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Rings gapped, and five pistons in.  I might have worked out why I lost my touch with the piston ring compressor trying to install no. 6 piston - the top compression ring had less than 0.005" gap when I tried it loose in the bore.  The rings probably bound.  Still not entirely happy about the fit of the top ring in the groove of no. 6 piston, so better to be safe than sorry.  I'll pop no. 6 out again to inspect.

Rob
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Errol62
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« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2019, 11:03:59 PM »
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Sounds like you’re enjoying yourself Rob. 👍


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ardiesse
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« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2019, 08:49:57 PM »
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Enjoying myself? Hmm . . . it's more like OCD to me.
But I now have all six pistons installed.  I think there must have been some residual crud in the top ring groove of number six piston.  I spun the ring around in the groove with the ring end innermost, and after a few revolutions it freed up.  Cleaned, oiled, checked it ran freely, and re-installed.

Oil supply pipe was bent.  I wondered why the sump didn't line up with the crankcase with the oil pump in place.

Bet there'll be a few more gotchas yet to come . . .
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my8thholden
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« Reply #28 on: February 28, 2019, 07:59:53 PM »
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hey Rob ..I am thinking of this a bit late ,but maybe not too late as your engine is not back in the car yet I assume ,you are possibly aware of this ,or have new rings with instructions ,just a couple of things you said made me think of possibilities where problems can happen ,were your piston compression rings marked " TOP " or did they have a step on the inner edge ? Is your oil control ring one piece or 3 piece segmented ring ? Do the pistons have a " T" slot on one side of the skirt ?   .Cheers Vern ..NB.. should have answer on my generator tomorrow ..
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ardiesse
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« Reply #29 on: February 28, 2019, 10:02:43 PM »
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Vern,

Fortunately the compression rings have plain gaps.  They're also of rectangular cross-section, but yet have TOP markings.  Yes, I was careful to put them in the right way up.  The oil rings are the segmented type, which is so much better than the single-piece type the earlies had.  T-slotted pistons are what my FX has.  But these are Repco pistons, with the skirts slotted in the oil ring groove.  It took some gentle tapping with a mallet handle on the piston crowns to "set" the conrods square to the bore (piston crown nicely centred in the bore, and the big-ends moved freely axially on the crankpins.)
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my8thholden
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« Reply #30 on: March 01, 2019, 08:18:22 AM »
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Rob ...Ok ..comp rings with NO step but TOP marked is so as the face contact in the bore is correct , all sounds good ,segemented oil control rings if fitted incorrectly can some times " squeal " in a dry bore and or even leave a verticle (up and down) scratch mark ..looks like you are making all the checks..good on you ...it will run like 40 jewel Swiss watch … my old guru mate said when you can only hear the contact points opening you've got it right..Vern
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ardiesse
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« Reply #31 on: March 02, 2019, 09:26:12 PM »
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I now have a complete short motor.

The problem with the sump bolt hole wasn't a stripped thread as such, but a "picked up" thread from a bolt.  I had to break it off in small bits, while hopefully not doing too much damage to the internal thread.  And some work with a round file to clear out the dags from misplaced spot welds on the sump.

Sod's Law of Automotive Metallurgy has reared its ugly head again.  I got the block decked and the head milled, thinking that'd guarantee mating surfaces.  Not so.  There's a ridge between nos. 3 and 4 on both the head and the block, and that's where the two faces are contacting each other.  I'm now out with an oil stone and a Texta, flattening the ridges by hand.
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my8thholden
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« Reply #32 on: March 03, 2019, 07:19:28 AM »
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Morning Rob ...Firstly my generator has tested fine and is running very nicely ,Tony the sparky at Glenorie did some more undercutting on the armature and is adjusting the regulator with it ..So thanks for your offer of generator parts ,but I will take the body trim we discussed ,i'll send a PM...to pay you and get it ..
The 2 ridges on your engine head and block both between 3 and 4 cylinder ,sounds bizzare ,I would go back to machine shop and discuss with them ...

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ardiesse
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« Reply #33 on: April 19, 2019, 06:21:36 PM »
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It's been a while.

I had the head milled.  It only took a very fine cut to clean up, and today I matched the block to suit (Texta, file, patience.)  The two faces pass the aluminium-foil test: 0.00063" according to Wikipedia.  Maybe everything going well I can have the head assembled and bolted on tomorrow.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #34 on: April 21, 2019, 03:06:22 PM »
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Motor's assembled and painted on the stand.  Startup tomorrow.
(Clay, this is why I was asking about EJ vacuum advance pipes.  I can probably slot an up-to-EK distributor in, but the earlier vacuum advance pipe may foul on the dipstick tube.)

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #35 on: April 22, 2019, 10:19:39 PM »
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Motor started.  You beauty.  But I have to replace a couple of gaskets in the water pump.

Now I can turn my attention to a "found object".
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Errol62
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« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2019, 12:53:17 AM »
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This going in a particular vehicle or just shelf stock rob?


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ardiesse
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« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2019, 10:44:03 AM »
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Shelf stock for the moment, but if anyone wants to buy a reconditioned grey motor . . .
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