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Author Topic: Electrical Gremlin  (Read 312 times)
stinky
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Glenn.Stankevicius
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« on: September 02, 2017, 12:17:53 PM »
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Weird intermittent issue.
I have an aftermarket wiring loom, one from the USA (one with the writing on the wires).
Everything works, the problem is with the indicators.
Short trips they are fine, on longer trips or intermittent driving throughout the day after a couple of hours they will stop flashing and just stay on, then later in the trip or the following day they work normally.
I have tried 3 or 4 different flasher cans and all do the same.
The flasher cans do not get hot, I have changed flasher cans when it happens to no effect.
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Errol62
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2017, 02:28:53 PM »
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I doubt it's the loom Stinky. Obviously not the flasher can. Not limited to one circuit so I would suspect  body to battery earth or an earthing issue in your steering column some where. Have you got the body grounded with a reasonable size wire to negative terminal? If so I would pull the indicator switch apart and give it a clean. Check the resistance between switch and power input from the flasher unit entering the column below the honey pot (yellow wire) and the light and dark blue wires with the switch engaged. I'm getting 16 ohms.

Clay's auto electrical at Edwardstown (no relation) have helped me with a similar issue on my EK in the past. I know the FEs have a different setup with the rear indicators flashing the brake light.
Cheers
Clay


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zulu
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« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2017, 02:33:39 PM »
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Stinky
I had an issue when using different brighter (LED?)globes apparently some other bit of kit needed to be added to the circuit so I went back to standard globes
Gary
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Harv
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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2017, 02:43:46 PM »
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From what I understand of it, the old incandescent globes drew a heap of amps. When that current flowed through the old flasher cans, it heated a bimetal strip. As the strip got hot, it opened the flasher. It then cooled and closed. This also gives the clicky noise.

With new LEDS, they dont draw much current, and cant get the flasher hot enough to open. You then use a fancy electronic can (has no bimetal strip, and doesn't need any current draw to switch). No clicky noise though.

Cheers,
Harv
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stinky
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Glenn.Stankevicius
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« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2017, 01:05:36 PM »
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Thanks Guys, no LEDs, I think Errol62 might be close though. I did have to disconnect the horn because it would go off randomly when turning corners.
Looks like a rebuild and rewire of the column is in order
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