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Author Topic: Finally a runner  (Read 12795 times)
Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #20 on: April 09, 2012, 09:46:28 PM »
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Thanks Jamahl... it was great to catch up with you on the weekend.... put a face to a name... Again I must say everyone who I have met from the forum or the various clubs have been exceptional individuals Cool Cool
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2013, 10:29:25 PM »
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I knew I had a slight leak in the LHR wheel cylinder...so I thought that I would change them before dring down to Sydney this weekend for CARnivale.
Look what I found. So not sure if this post us hold be placed in vehicles no construction. Tongue




Changed both wheel cylinders and also put the springs from the wagon into the sedan cos the wheels kept on scraping the wheel arch going over a bump and there was no way I coould put anyone in the back. Took a while but  did it.

It sits quite high now but the ride is much better. Does feel quite bouncy and haven't scrapped the tyres today Grin


fee

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NES304
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« Reply #22 on: January 22, 2013, 08:38:00 AM »
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Does feel quite bouncy and haven't scrapped the tyres today Grin


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Nick

Happens when you drive upside down!!!!!! Grin
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #23 on: January 22, 2013, 12:43:28 PM »
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yeah it bouced around A LOT  Grin
Damm ipad.
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #24 on: October 03, 2016, 02:21:56 PM »
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I'm not sure does this go back to vehicles under construction
Doing a little bit of a tidy up on snowwhite
The engine was leaking quite a bit of oil and it did not have unleaded valves so I have taken it out.


And put in the one that I had built up for the wagon


I was just going to give the engine bay a bit of a cleanup But as you know it's never that simple



I also want to lower it and I have got some lowering blocks from Pete Mallaby.


Is it worth getting this radiator re-welding. What are the three core radiators  like on eBay. The aluminium ones.



The plan is to send it to the sandblasters to get the engine bay and underside cleaned up. And put it all back together
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #25 on: October 03, 2016, 02:28:08 PM »
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Does anyone make reproduction ones of these



The place is a bloody mess!
Nick
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« Reply #26 on: October 03, 2016, 03:16:43 PM »
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I dont think they do nick

But i think i kept mine off the wagon i shall go looking for you.
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« Reply #27 on: July 21, 2017, 05:06:28 PM »
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New engine in. New brake lines fitted and brakes bled.  At least it can stop now!!

New vacuum advance line and fuel line tidied up




 Couple of questions. Does the choke cable need to go through both carbies
The distributor is sitting probably 2 mm proud of the base. it should sit flat shouldn't it.
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« Reply #28 on: July 21, 2017, 05:08:24 PM »
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That last photo is of a relay that attaches to the starter motor. What function would that too. I've got one loose wire coming off it?
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ardiesse
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« Reply #29 on: July 21, 2017, 05:46:21 PM »
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Nick,

Choke cable: yes, it has to connect to both carburettors.
Starter motor relay:  For a grey motor starter, it's probably unnecessary.

Connect purple "start" wire from harness to one side of relay coil.  Connect other side of relay coil to ground. Connect one side (common) of relay contacts to big battery cable on the starter solenoid.  Connect other side of relay contacts (normally open) to the screw terminal on the starter solenoid where the purple "start" wire used to go.

Distributor: don't know.  I'd need to take a look at a photo.

Rob
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« Reply #30 on: July 21, 2017, 05:59:49 PM »
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Thanks Rob.
Better get a bigger choke cable. Are these available.?
Nick
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« Reply #31 on: July 21, 2017, 07:46:28 PM »
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Hi Nick,

The following is my experience in regards to the choke with twin carbies. I have used the original cable and hooked it up to the rear carby. I slightly drilled a larger hole where the wires go through. From there I got another piece of wire to join the two carbies. It worked but not to my entire satisfaction. The reason for that I was not convinced the front carby was fully closed when the cable was pushed in. I then disconnected the front carby and them wired it completely open. I now use the choke only on the rear carby and the motor works perfectly as a choke from a cold start. I will endeavour to try and get a photo over the weekend.

If you still want to use the choke on both carbies I have read somewhere (may Harv's carby guide) where others have used a hacksaw blade cut to size to join both carbies.

Cheers

Rod
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #32 on: July 21, 2017, 09:51:39 PM »
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Thanks Rod
Look fwd to photo
Someone also mentioned cable
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« Reply #33 on: July 22, 2017, 07:42:51 AM »
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Hmm,
Saturday's job.. change master cylinder and re-bleed brakes.
 Clean the floor
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« Reply #34 on: July 23, 2017, 06:34:31 PM »
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Try a shortened push bike wheel spoke for choke.
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ardiesse
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« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2017, 10:37:13 AM »
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Now there's a thought.  And perhaps you could raid a "chocolate-block" electrical terminal strip for the brass tubular fitting with two clamp screws in it.

For reference, the X2s had a longer choke cable, with a section of (plastic) outer slipped over the inner cable between the two carburettors.  The choke cable retainer clamp was fitted to the rear carburettor only.

Rob
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« Reply #36 on: July 24, 2017, 11:00:45 AM »
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great Idea EHSV6.
Always helpful Rod
Nick
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« Reply #37 on: July 25, 2017, 02:04:03 PM »
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And Rob
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« Reply #38 on: August 04, 2017, 04:56:30 PM »
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Way to go for that nice runner!
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