Starting the Motor 1st Time ???

[Blown_FC]

Does anyone have any tips for starting the motor for the first time after rebuild.

The fuel lines are all dry ( new lines ), so it may take a while to get fuel up ( holley mechanical pump ).

What should I look for first, where do I start, any ideas ?

Mark

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

When starting mine I was told to crank the motor until the oil pressure was up. That was after checking everything else first.
The fuel won't take too long to get through the lines.

[smithy]

with the mechanical pump you will probably be better off to prime the carb and or the fuel pump bowl first just to give the fuel a helping hand to get through the lines.

this is also handy if the dissy isnt set properly you will notice that the motor wont hold its revs dies very quickly.  i found this out as my dissy was out by over 90 degrees.

also when starting mine for the first time i found i had to fill the oil filter first to assist in getting some oil pressure up.
just make sure you have checked all the fuel lines are tight and have a good strong battery and all your earths are firmly secured. ( have you earthed the block?)

then sit back and enjoy the sound

i hope i have given you the correct info, im sure someone will point it out if i havent, but this is what was needed when starting mine for the very first time
good luck
cheers
dean

[Blown_FC]

Thanks Stinky and Dean.

I had the Auto Leccy do the wiring yesterday and when you turn the key ( ever so quickly ) it starts to crank.

I haven't tried to start it yet as the dizzy ect is not set yet.

I'm sure the guy earthed the block.

I have a mechanic coming over next saturday to make sure the motor is TDC before setting the dizzy....I'm a bit un-educated with this sort of stuff, so any advice is taken with appreciation.

I don;t know what timing red 202's are meant to run at.

When I'm cranking it over to get the fuel and oil up, is it advisable to pull the plugs out, to relieve some compression and avoid any premature firing /

Cheers

mark

[TorqueFC]

i dont think its nessacery to take out the plugs, when the fuel builds up it could make a mess in your engine bay (worse case scenario...)

another thing to remember, make sure there is petrol in the tank

[craiga]

Mark,

Time the engine statically, remove the plugs, crank it over and check that there is fuel, spark, and no abnormal noises.

Your engine builder should have used molybond or similar to pre-lube all components but its still worthwhile cranking the engine until the lifters pump up and oil comes to the top of the engine (rockers/pushrods). Once you are happy put the plugs in and start it.

A new engine (in particular a new camshaft) needs to be run at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes to bed in the lifters/cam lobes.

After 20 minutes stop, enjoy the smell of the burning paint and wait for things to cool down a little before rechecking everything, including retightening manifold nuts and anything else that you think needs to be checked.

Fuel isn't going to come out of the cylinders with the spark plugs removed , and because your carbies don't have accelarator pumps nothings going to happen until the throttle is opened and the venturi action created by the incoming air draws the fuel from the fuel bowl.  

Have fun, this bits got to be the best part of building a car. Unless of course you left a spanner in the sump.....

Got you worried yet  

Cheers,

Craig.

[Blown_FC]

I knew that 12mm spanner had to be somewhere !

Thanks for the advice.    I just didn't know what to focus on first...

- The carbies ( to get them tuned in )
- The Timing ( to get it running right )
- The Trimatic ( to keep the fluid up )

Or that funny burning smell you mentioned !

Do you know how much oil the red 202 takes with a dry sump?

Same with Tranny fluid.....with dry converter, coooler ect.

Thanks again

Mark

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I did an oil an filter change on the Ute's 161, just a bit over 5 litres.
Unless you have a larger performance sump?

The best I can find out from the HQ Trimatic service manual about the trans is the recommendation to refill with 4 pints, but this is when adjusting bands and implies a full convertor. The Gemini (?small) convertor in mine was about a litre from memory.
To check when trans is cold, they say to start the motor and shift through all the positions so that the oil flows through all the passages. Switch the motor off and the level should be up to the "Add 1 pint" mark. When the trans is at operating temp, it should be at the correct level. There is also the fluid in the trans lines and trans cooler to consider.
Just don't try driving until you have the correct level.

[Dave_EH]

Mark,

Just a few simple points from a learner as well.

• use running in oil - its a lighter oil (penrite seems to be a trusted brand)
• if it hasn't already been done, some penrite engine building lube on the lifters and pushrod tops
• as craig said time the motor statically, or use a screw driver in the no.1 cylinder to find TDC
• I would set your motor at approx 8 degrees advance for initial start up
• fill your oil filter before fitting - this will make it easier to get the initial oil level right on the dipstick prior to startup
• it prob wouldn't hurt to pur a little oil down the cylinder bore through spark hole but I am not sure on this one
• remove high tension coil and crank motor to get lifters to pump up

You'll be worried and excited all at once.  Its a big help to have a few mates around, as you tend to panic with even the slightest smell.

Remember the gaskets and paint will burn in too, and your rocker cover might leak as well.

remeber to top your radiator up once the water pump kicks in if you are going to run the motor for 15-20 mins.

Also, as Craig mentioned you'll need to choke the sidedraft carbs to start as they dont have a pump, and priming the fuel pump would be good.

Also a nice charged battery!!!

Dave

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Good ventilation would be recommended too if you are running the motor for 15-20 mins.  

[TorqueFC]

re transmission.

after you have filled it, put stands under the rear of the car so that the wheels are off the ground, then go through all the gears. this will fill the convertor and once hot will give you a proper reading.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I wouldn't recommend the stands, use your brakes with the wheels on the ground. That way you can feel the gears engage, if they don't, shutdown and start looking for problems.

[Blown_FC]

So much advice  

THanks guys for your advice.....I'll read and re read your comments so when the time comes, I may just remember not to panic when XYZ happens.

Excited - Absolutely  
Scared - Too Bloody Right  

I'm just excited that the lights and horn work....it's so good to see her come alive after being in pieces for over 4 years !

[TorqueFC]

we were also concerned with the stands, but when we purchased a Dominator high stall for the sedan, this is exactly how they recomended doing it, im pretty sure he said it was something like it filled up the convertor, but didnt put the gearbox under strain so if there were any problems there wouldnt be any damage....but hey id doubt there will be a problem with your gearbox anyways!

[steamman]

Great to hear its all getting so close.
Stinky is right on the money to pull out the plugs and wind it over untill the oil pressure is up,because winding them over with the plugs in can damage the bearings before the pressure is up.
Cheers
Deano.