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 81 
 on: July 22, 2025, 09:17:17 AM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by Errol62
I remember removing a broken fibre gear from a black 202 in my VK Berlina. Grinding, chiselling and heat all came to play. The failure actually occurred between Port Augusta and Iron Knob, but we towed the car back up to Leigh Creek for the repair, some 300km.


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 82 
 on: July 21, 2025, 08:35:29 PM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls
There are many methods of timing gear replacement.  Here is one from Cowell, SA, featuring the panelbeater and his friend, the John Deere mechanic.
...
All in all, a great success.  A major engine problem on a Friday afternoon at Port Lincoln, fixed in a day.
Rob

Love that story and the picture it paints of country Oz. I know the panel beater in town - no John Deer store though! I'll let you know how I get on - just had another thought. I'm sure that I have a two piece bearing puller up in the shed - will pull it out and see how that goes before taking to the cam with an angle grinder. I will use progressive steps of violence until the job is done!

 83 
 on: July 21, 2025, 08:31:19 PM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by ardiesse
And while I'm on a roll here -

Warren and Brown of king-pin reamer, valve seat refacing equipment and Scope soldering iron fame also made a camshaft timing gear extraction and replacement kit, so you can do the work in-situ.  I saw one of these in WA at a collector of anything grey-motor related.  In brief:

Drill a hole, concentric and axially true, down the camshaft hub and tap it 3/8" Whit x 1" deep.
Screw extractor drift onto camshaft hub and, using it as a guide, drill three holes into the steel hub of the camshaft gear.  Tap them to the size of the supplied bolts.
By the use of threaded rod and other sorcery, pull timing gear off camshaft.
Installation of the new gear only requires the use of threaded rod, a nut and a socket.

Rob

 84 
 on: July 21, 2025, 08:20:06 PM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by ardiesse
Craig,

There are many methods of timing gear replacement.  Here is one from Cowell, SA, featuring the panelbeater and his friend, the John Deere mechanic.

Sooo - coming back from a WA trip in 2006, my father and I decided to drive down and up the Eyre Peninsula.  As we left Port Lincoln, the engine made a low-pitched half-engine-speed thud, reminiscent of a shot big-end.  We pulled over to investigate.  Other people also pulled over.  In half an hour, we had the name and phone number of the Port Lincoln car club president and a helpful lead to the panelbeater at Cowell, who was an old Holden nut.  The RAA guy turned up unbidden, attached a tow rope to his HiAce and towed us up to the North Shields caravan park.  He knew the proprietor, who rented us a cabin and let us use a concrete pad for an on-site van for repairs.  This was a Friday afternoon.

I set to work, dropped the sump and ruled out loose big-ends.  But turning the engine over by hand, I noticed it tended to bind, with slightly less than two turns of free movement.  I pulled the timing case off, and in the bottom of the timing case was a gear tooth.  Valve train out, fuel pump off, camshaft out.  The timing gear was missing two teeth - but the engine still ran.

Pause for an excellent dinner at the North Shields pub a short walk up the beach from the caravan park.

Options at this stage were:

Buy replacement timing gear from Rares at Adelaide and have it freighted to North Shields: three to five working days.
Fly to Adelaide, buy timing gear, fly back.  If flights permit.
Contact the panelbeater at Cowell.

Saturday morning, we made contact with the panelbeater.  He said he had a second-hand timing gear in good condition in a box of parts "somewhere", but if that failed, we could rat a grey motor for a camshaft plus gear.

Now the problem was how to get to Cowell (~60 km away).  Our "neighbour", a long-term resident of the caravan park, offered to drive us up there, as long as his dog, an enormous but very well-natured animal, could come too.  Who were we to argue?  We met the panelbeater and pulled the camshaft out of a very neglected-looking EJ Premier parts car.  Then he found the timing gear.  Better to use my camshaft as I don't have to swap camshafts back after I get home.

How to replace the timing gear?  He's a panelbeater and doesn't have a press in his shop.  Not to worry.  His mate at the John Deere dealership does have a press.  A phone call, a few minutes' wait and we walked down to John Deere with a camshaft and a gear.  The press work was done in a few minutes.

Now, you mentioned block of wood and feeler gauges.  The John Deere mechanic said to me, "Move the thrust washer around as I press the gear on and tell me when I'm getting close."  I couldn't even start to voice the word "now" when the thrust washer jammed solid.  "Too slow," he said, "but never mind.  I'll take the shaft out of the press, you hold it upright by the gear."  He placed a drift on the camshaft hub and delivered a well-calibrated "whang" onto the drift with a hammer.  The result was "free sliding fit with minimal end-play" in engineering-speak.

The John Deere mechanic refused payment for his services.  On a Saturday.  The panelbeater refused payment for engine parts.  He also lent us a 1/4" drive Sidchrome socket set for the thrust washer screws.  I asked him if he was concerned we were going to make off with his socket set and he said, "No, I know you'll come back.  Plus I get to see your FX too."

On the Saturday afternoon I had the engine reassembled and did a victory lap of the North Shields caravan park, to the applause of the locals.

All in all, a great success.  A major engine problem on a Friday afternoon at Port Lincoln, fixed in a day.

Rob

 85 
 on: July 21, 2025, 08:13:06 PM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by Errol62
Sounds like a lot of my days Craig.


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 86 
 on: July 21, 2025, 05:19:15 PM 
Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls
The cam followers arrived on Friday so today I was prepping the cam to be sent off to Clive's Cams to be reground. The fibre gear had damaged teeth so I have already sourced an allowy gear as a replacement. I thought it best to remove the fibre timing gear to make it easier to post. I was going to follow Harv's guide on removing the timing gear using a press but couldn't get the cam to mount safely. Not to be deterred I opted to try a two legged puller bolted through the timing gear as an option - this just resulted in the timing gear separating from the steel centre - I probably should have gone straight to Harv's alternate method of grind and hammer. No great loss as with the fibre gear seaparated in two I an already part way through the grind/hammer method.



Tomorrow I will cut through the timing gear centre and try to split it with a cold chisel and get it in the post. I will send the alloy gear with the cam hand have it pressed on as opposed to me having to do it with a block of wood and some feeler guages.

I spent the rest of the afternoon searching for the front brake components so I can start on getting them sorted. I know I have them bundled and put in a safe place. You would think it would be with the rest o the components I stripped out and bagged at the same time - but no.  So the search will continue tomorrow - I know I am short some parts as the passenger side brake shoes were hanging off and the pivot point was missing. But that will have to wait until I fain all the bits and figure out if anything else is missing.

A lot of effort today for not much outcome; still a very very small step closer to the end goal.



 87 
 on: July 19, 2025, 08:32:31 PM 
Started by my8thholden - Last post by ardiesse
Vern,

Nope.

FX-FC have 1-1/16" diameter rear wheel cylinders; FB-EK have 1" diameter rear wheel cylinders.  The change in SAE flare and brake pipe sizes is so you can't easily interchange the rear wheel cylinders.  Fronts remain unchanged at 1-3/16" diameter.

But then I came unstuck with replacement front brake hoses for my FC.  The brake place sold me the ones with the smaller (female) flare and I sheared off the brake pipe after overtightening it, attempting to stop a leak.  Went back to the brake place with the hoses and broken pipe.  They were most apologetic, made me a new brake pipe and some little flared copper washers, and all was good.

But you could, if you wanted, change the brake pipes and union on the rear axle over to (I think) 3/16" diameter brake pipe and fit FB/EK rear wheel cylinders to improve brake bias.

Rob

 88 
 on: July 19, 2025, 07:23:51 AM 
Started by my8thholden - Last post by Errol62
Rear are lager diameter and 1/4” SAE flare seats, rather than 7/32”, from memory. I believe front are same just the rubber hoses will be different x 3, left, right, rear. Once again the flare seats.


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 89 
 on: July 19, 2025, 07:01:58 AM 
Started by my8thholden - Last post by my8thholden
are the wheel cylinder on FC the same size as FB ....are the rubber cups the same front and rear ?  ...

 90 
 on: July 19, 2025, 06:57:19 AM 
Started by my8thholden - Last post by my8thholden
Got these from Gary in WA ..on their way ..

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