Recent Posts

Thanks for the info guys.  Put a 2nd hand unit in until I can overhaul it.

Apologies for the delayed update I ended up using Taylor's outer tailgate skin, it fitted well.

I did the exact same thing, I bought my pipe from the local R/C hobby shop.

Harv,

You are a gem. Thank you so much for that. I didn't event think to look there. So now it is just a matter of finding some 1/8" brass pipe and doing the repair.

I think JB Waterweld should do the trick!

Thanks, my concern was that it would be too soft for the job.

I'll see what the local paint shop wants to do the job.

The Masterparts catalogue only shows one part number for the FE/FC pivot shaft spacers (7413862), so methinks they are not left-hand and right-hand.

Cheers,
Harv

Much better off doing it in 2k far less shrinkage with primers and fillers, will handle the heat from the sun and is as tough as nails. Unlike acrylic which is always moving and quite fragile. Acrylics are not what the used to be and no development has gone into them for the past 30 yrs.

Hi Team,

I would like to clarify what I have read in relation to the Pivot Shaft Spacers (Windscreen Wiper Bezels). In the reference it refers to the Bezels having the grub screw for the nozzle being on the outside. This would make them handed; ie opposite sides depending on it being suited for driver's or passenger's side. The FB version has the locator at the 2 O'clock position and grub screws on both sides so they can be configured how you want. The FE FC ones only have the one grub screw.

The limted number of photographs I have seen show all of the FE FC Bezels having the grub screw on the same side. The set I have are the the same configuration.

Can someone please confirm for me if the FE FC Bezels are the same both sides (ie grub screw facing the passenger side) or if the passenger and driver's sides are different.

Cheers
Jolls

Hi Team,

I have searched the site and located a thread that discussed this subject; however, it refers to a thread on the old site that no longer links. I have done a stack of research outside of here and am 75% through the restoration process.

The steering wheel I have had a previous attempt at restoration using bog; it wan't successful and it must have been sanded with 80 grit paper as it has deep scratches all over it.

The process I used was to open up the cracks to a "v" shape using a dremmel grinder. I then filled the cracks with araldite and let that set before using a file/dremmel/sandpaper to bring dress the araldite back down. This took a fair bit of elbow grease but it looks OK now. I still have some deep scratches though.

My current plan, subject to input, is:

• Spray the steering wheel with etch primer, then spay putty and rub back with 400 wet to ensure all of the scratch marks are filled
• Another coat of etch primer, rubbed back with 800 wet
• Three coats of black 1K (Acrylic)
• Block it back with 1200 wet
• Three coats of clear
• Sand by hand with 1200 wet
• Buff to high gloss by hand with cutting compoundt

My question is: will the approach above provide a durable finish or am I better off taking it to a paint shop to have it done in 2K once I have finished all of the prep work?

Cheers
Jolls
 

I swapped a set of EK Wiper Bezels (Pivot Shaft Spacers) I had for FC ones. The FC pair I now have are both passenger side versions and one has the brass tube missing. I'm sure I can refit a brass tube and make it usable, but would prefer to get hold of a driver's side one if there is one out there.

Cheers
Jolls