I researched 185/80 13'' price and availability here in WA, not a lot to choose from $180-$210 ea. Nankang cn25 light commercial are a bit better at $130. and a 185/70 is also available. 175/70 are a lot more plentiful and cheaper, are there any pictures I can google to see how they would look on an fc? Cheers.

Thank you all, it is good to hear varying opinions /ideas. I have a poor education and have an income to match so I will stick to the original rims. The idea of the light truck tyre is interesting as I think they would resemble the original conventionals but would like the originals sacrifice the ride quality? safety would be a consideration here, the ride is not as important to me as the car would not see a lot of use. The roller skate look worries me and the longer legs it has the better, less work for an old motor but maybe a killer on the hills? Love the white wall look- your car looks fantastic Keith. The Fe-Fc is a great Australian icon but I guess we are biased? I have a full restoration and a lot of work ahead of me but rather than try and move it about with old leaky tyres thought I would sort them out early on. Thanks Ron.

So I have looked at another earlier post and 185/80r x13 is recommended a couple of times, I think that is the size I will go for. The tyre place/fitters should be able to advise me re; tube vs tubeless.

Maybe I should have also added a higher profile would give me a better gear/speed ratio (in my opinion).

Hi, I am looking at getting a set of new tyres for my FC sedan restoration project, I am going for the mostly original look and from other posts, I see that the radial equivalent size is 185/70 R13? I have heard that here in WA you are allowed one size up so maybe 185/75 would be ok? (if I can find them as I believe it is a difficult size to source). In my opinion, maybe that size would also look better as I always thought the original tyres and rims looked a little small but maybe that is part of the appeal, would they also be the highest legal profile without causing fouling issues. My other question is do I fit tubes or can I enlarge the valve hole to except the tubeless valve.   Thanks Ron.

Thank you Rob you have given me some very valuable information and an idea of what direction to go in, you have been most helpful and knowledgeable. I will put up a post at a later date (in the chatroom?) to let you and other interested members know how I get on. Great Forum. Thanks again.

Thanks Rob, the engine is in an FE parts car that I thought I might use (the FC not having an engine at the moment). I turned it over by the starter motor (maybe that was a mistake) with WD down the plug holes first, there was not much compression so I removed the valve cover and noticed a couple of the valves were stuck. I will try to loosen them as you suggest and also see if the valves leak when seated as you mentioned, maybe it can be saved? All going well, would the head need to be converted to run on unleaded at some stage or are additives successful? Thanks again Ron

Thanks Rob & Team, I have decided to go for the Grey after your help. The grey I have has some valves stuck open on turning the engine (not sure if that bends things) the motor has sat for about 40 years. Should I maybe take the head off to see if it is usable, freeing valves and lapping them I can do but not bearings or rings.

Thank you all for taking the reply to the red engine swap and the question of why swap from grey to red? the original grey I have would need a complete rebuild and I have a good red motor. I would be happy with a good grey motor but have not been able to find a usable one (I am in WA if someone has one ) and I am beginning to think I should try harder to locate one. I was not aware that I would have to change to a HR front end and I thought fitting a 138 red would be reasonably straight forward without too many mods. Thanks again.

Could someone point me to a site/page where it shows fitting a red motor in a FC (to a grey box)? Fit the engine mounts to cross member is about all I can find. Also, some of the questions that I am looking for are; the brackets that are welded to the cross member that the engine mounts bolt up to, do I need to make them or where could I buy them? Also, do I need to fit the engine in to find the bracket location (my guess is yes) or is there a measurement /template so I don't need to take the engine out again to weld the bracket mounting points to the cross member? Any positive replies appreciated.

would a 38  or 149 red swap require engineers certificate in wa?