Brake lines finished on diff.


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For any one trying to make double flares in brake lines, should stay away from the following double flare kit. 1 in 5 attempts is just shit even doing on the tips and ticks.


But I can vouch for this one as on the first attempt created the perfect flare. (I know I should of had the smarts that the cheap kit was going to be bad ) This one was only $60 which is a little cheaper then the ducks guts $300 hydraulic. Which I could not justify.
Now I will complete the brake line on the diff.


Blasted and cleaned up most of the brake parts for the drums. new HQ brake shoes, HR,HT..etc brake hose and HQ cylinders,  Gave all which I thought needed it a coat in caliper red paint.  Just cleaning up hand brake lines from the HQ diff hopefully will work well. They have a plastic coating on the cable which seems to help them side a lot nicer then the LJ cables which don't have a coating.

Pete
   Did you plan that the new chassis rail to be the correct distance away from the original side rails of the car for the oil cooler.  It just seems to fit in there so sweet.. I'm not doubting your skills but love your ability to plan ahead.

Thanks for the vids Pete made be shed a tear  ..  wish I was there would of been great fun

Holly shit Pete that sounds awesome well done on today's work.   You must be happy ?

Sounds like a great plan to me and I'm sure it will work Pete... But I do work in IT and that computer may have a mind of its own and decide to do other things  

Today finally did the bolts up on the diff.  New seals and bearings fells nice an tight.. Happy with the KBS paint looks nice a glossy

Brake tube, cylinders and pads in the mail. Will throw them on as soon as they come in.



Still playing when I get a chance with the gauge pod ..  need to work on the front of the pod to blend in to the dash more happy with how the back looking matching the dash lines..  So more cutting, grinding and welding to come.

The lines look great Pete.    The cooler it self Pete are they ok under the car like that. I dont think I have seen them under like that.  I relate them to the front of the car. does it require some sort of protection.

Great ideas Pete..  Where will you mount the heater switch or control ..  in one of the original spots on the dash near the speedo or new location along the dash..?

I agree the column looks better after the shortening. I love how the brake booster sits in its own little dimple. Looks impressive. Great work Pete.

Hi
 1. I think a button to simply add a picture/s would help.
 2. Sign up not an issue but adding facebook l think would not hurt for newbies
 3. I think under technical would be good to have categories like ..  engine chassis..  etc  help for searching.
 4. An easy way to attach peoples project posts to the technical.   Example... say I was doing diff work an thought I had a good find or solution I could attach that reply from my project page to the technical. This may be just doubling up but it might also help with searching for info. I like to keep my project posts together, but they maybe helpful in technical section, but i do not put them on there.   
5. Ability to keep a list of members you like to follow. Tap talk has this feature. Maybe something for the admin guys to put together a address book. 

6. This is more of a question how do we get the past forum guys (who have finished their rides) to comment on our newbie rides...   They seem to drop off when they have finished..


Just some ideas
Thanks Cam

Hi  What a great starter car..  Love the plans and you look like you have made a great start..  keep the pictures coming..   Cam

Thanks Graham ..  Slow and steady   ..     I try focusing on the diff at the moment, hope to finish it while on holidays.  And when not on that working on the gauge holder for the dash.  

Hi Marc I'm going to running all the early stud pattern..(Ht not HQ), Main reason for this less work on cutting and welding the diff.  I have found I can run HQ spindles on the HR front with HT rotors and calipers. Which lowers to from 25mm with out any issues. And on the back run HT drum (same size HQ) on the LJ diff using the HQ backing plates. Need the HQ backing plates to allow space between the cylinder and stud flange. I will use a 7 inch booster with a XD master which runs the pipes out to the guard not towards the motor, which will look neat. 

I think you would have to do some major work on the axles to get them to the HQ stud pattern. I think it would be easier just to get the HQ diff cut down..  And if you were going to go that far I would go commodore diff and front rotors. Which a lot of people have done.

Its hard making these decisions, as there are so many options.   

Its amazing some times its just cheaper to buy the whole item..  Been searching for HQ,HZ ...  rear backing plates and found I could buy the entire diff for cheaper then the backing plates by them selves.

I need to do a small adjustment to the inner circle so the bearing fits thru, but other then that they will bolt straight on with the HT drums, on the LJ diff. The HQ have the inner mount section pressed in more, this is required if you dont the wheel cylinder hits the shaft flange which holds the studs. Love to say it was my idea but found all the info here http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=20071

Other things I have been doing is cleaning up the steering box and the vertical channel pillar, All sand blasted and painted. Have to take some more pictures of these.

Hi all    A must see is the Mildura Holden Museum, all original Holdens the owner has at least one of every model, there not on all on display plans to enlarge the space are already under way. But what are on display are nice.

Here are some examples..





https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=mildura%20holden%20motor%20museum

Thanks Pete, always looking after me .. I will have to check out how bad my real one is ...  I say that because I think you might think that is the grill im going to use ..  Its is actual I section I cut out of a really bad ute. Was nearly the only bit realy left stuck in a vise on my bench .  I wide angle shot will show you what I mean ..  the gill just came with it. ::   

If that was my real dash I would be a bit worried, I have bee hacking it it a bit  ...   

Always love you post Pete.. Love the new parts you make or the new ideas.  You always seem to make me want to hit the shed and tinker with some thing.. keep up the great post Pete

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Hi it's been a while.. been doing my favorite things still blasting a couple of small parts. Have a couple of ideas one around the air cleaner.. making it look like a holden 186s air clean even thou it's a Ford ..



The other idea I'm playing around is the eh gauge pod on the dash in place of the ash tray.



So that's what's been going on ...

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Hi Pete   Would like to grab a pair of the rubbers of you mate .. hope you been well

HI
   I have a Supercheap blaster, which I was lucky enough to get at %50 off. I agree with Pete with requiring a vacuum of some sort. I added a vac port on the back and added two extra lid handles to help squeeze the back down as it leaked a bit. I have been able to do a lot of parts with good results. One let down in long parts will not fit. I also use some book covering clear plastic on the inside lid. As you soon go through the ones provided. And I find the light on the inside a waste of time as it is not bright enough. Still recommend it tho.




http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Tabletop-Sandblasting-Cabinet/285583