Temp variations accross the head are very interesting. I have an FB head on my FC. originally I hooked my temp guage to the front port on the head and got some alarming readings. the engine always seemed to run at 90 C + and while cruising even a small hill would send the temp up dramatically only to drop back when finished climbing. Often on a hot day the temp would exceed 100C. The idiot light never came on, I did test it and it was OK. I figured I had a problem so with a hot engine I checked (surface) temperatures with a laser temperature reader. I found the the temperature at the front of the head was by far the hottest spot! the back of the head was significantly cooler and the thermostat housing was cooler again. I would have thought that the thermo housing would be hottest as that is where the water exits to the radiator. Anyway i obtained a EJ thermostat housing which has a tapping for a water pipe and fitted the Temp guage sender there. I now have the heater outlet coming off the front of the head and returning to the port at the water pump. ALL GOOD NOW. The guage doesn't fluctuate like it used toand sits on a fairly steady 80 to 82 C. It only gets hot ( maybe up to 90C) when It sits idling as at a traffic light, but quickly drops back to 80C when we get moving. My engine has the original type head gasket. High ambient temperatures, say above 30 C increase my engine running  temps by maybe 2 to 5 C. Hope this helps, cheers, Fraze.

Thanks for your posts. The problem I have with packintg/crating the tank is that being a ute/PV tank it has an long filler neck and to pack that would have to be removed - how to get that done? Next option I guess is to talk the Missus into a Tas holiday and pick it up myself.Actually now that I have said that it sounds good. Fraze

Need help or advice! I have a fuel tank for my Ute rebuild in Hobart, Tasmania and I am in Melbourne. How to get the tank to Melbourne. The carriers I have contacted claim the tank is "dangerous goods" even though it has not contained fuel for 20+ years.Does any one have a clue to a willing carrier, otherwise is there a forum member out there who makes the trip who could pick up the tank for me and bring it to Melbourne?? I would be very happy to pay for the service plus any costs. Thanks, Fraze

FYI - dash top colour. As Ken posted, Cinder grey 253-9558 is the colour for FE FC. The 253 in the code denotes nitro-cellulose laquer. Later on, during the FB model run GMH changed the paint to Acrylic laquer. the paint code designation changed to 585. The paint colour name then changed to CLINKER grey and the code became 09963. I had some mixed to 09963 yesterday and to my untrained eye it looks the same as the Cinder grey on my FC. Incidentally when I asked for 09963 the guy at the paint shop looked it up on his computer and got the formula so I guess it is still a current code available to all. Cheers, Fraze

What is your location? Complete Auto Paints at Westall, Melbourne, have lots of old paint info, they could probably help, Cheers, Fraze.

I went through all of this a couple of years ago, had the engine out several times before getting the rear seal to work,including a spun seal. Eventually I gave up on the rope seal supplied in the gasket kits. The one I tried to use looks like a woven sleeve filled with strands of material which is almost impossible to trim with a razor blade. Eventually i got onto a seal from BestGasket in USA. It is 6380S which is nearest in size and appearance to the original. It looks exactly the same as the rear seal supplied for Holden V8 engines but larger cross section. Since using that, i do have a bit of a drip from the rear main but not much and I attribute that to wear in the sealing track on the crank.
MY wifes nephew did his apprenticeship with Repco as an engine builder in the reco shop, and later worked in the same role at RPM engines. His recommendation (for non asbestos seals) is to soak the seal in oil before fitting, dimple the bottom of the seal groove in the block and bearing cap using a centre punch, then cement the seal in place using ,say, Permatex or one of the oil resistant silicon based products. Incidentally I showed him the rope seal from a new gasket kit and he laughed at it and said that there was no way he would use it. He also said that when they went away from asbestos seals they had a lot of trouble with seals on Holden engines and solved it by using a Ford rope seal but couldn't remember details. Hope this helps, Fraze

Want to buy - four or five standard steel 13" wheels for EH, HD,HR Holden. Prefer Melbourne area. Thanks, Fraze.

I'm finding all this very interesting but I still don't have an upper control arm - surely there is one out there somewhere? Fraze

I saw an ad very recently where someone is reproducing the scratch plates, I think I saw it on ebay. Fraze

Hi Ray, thanks for your reply - the FB EK control arm has a different part number to the FE FC, and the bump stop is quite different, otherwise I don't know what the differences are, maybe someone can chip in here? Cheers, Frazd

WANT TO BUY - Upper control arm (wishbone) to suit FB - EK holden. Sincerely hope that someone out there can help me! Cheers, Fraze

All good Harve. I sent my payment too you thismorning via Paypal, Fraze

Does anyone out there have the width of the two conrol arm (wishbone) location spacers - upper and lower. These are part numbers 3A5 upper and 3A6 lower. Thanks, Fraze

Classic symptom of brake hose failure! They can look perfectly ok on the outside but the inner wall can collapse. What happens is that when you apply the brakes the pressure forces fluid through the pipe. when you let your foot off the brake you only have spring pressure returning the shoes and this is not enough to completely open the collapsed (inner) brake hose so fluid, and pressire, reduce slowly so that the brake locks on then slowly releases.  Even blowing through it won't necessarily be an indicator - they are relatively cheap, replace them all. Fraze

That’s fantastic thanks Harv. Cheers, Fraze

Hi John (59wagon) tried Camtech as you suggested but they couldn’t help. Thanks for trying. Looks like i’m In trouble, not getting swamped with replies. Cheers, Fraze

WTB rather urgent now, need a set of usable cam followers to complete my engine rebuild. Thanks to FC Wrangler who tried to help out, pity that didn't work out, so - 12 cam followers required please!
Also require a speedo drive (screws into side of gearbox) ex an FJ, 22 tooth,
Hope someone out there can help. Thanks, Fraze

Thanks Jim, see seperate email I sent thismorning re arranging purchase. Cheers, Fraze

Thanks for the replies. My problem is that most of the lifters in my engine are pitted  and can't be refaced, hence my requirement for replacements - hope someone can help? Thanks, Fraze.

Need to buy a set of cam followers for my F B engine rebuild, new or good used will do, can anyone help? Any clues on a source for new cam followers? Thanks, Fraze