I went to a talk by a fuel company guy a while back. Apparently modern fuels without lead degenerate faster than they used to. Something to do with “aromatics” from memory. Any way the message was that 95/98 octane fuels have a longer shelf life than 91. Again from memory 91 has a short shelf life of about a month before it starts to degenerate. Fuel additives such as Stabil slow down the degeneration, but don’t stop it. Cheers, Fraze

There was a few on eBay a few days ago, cheers, Fraze

I asked the same question a few years ago and the advice I received is that the deck was originally hardened Masonite, dark brown in colour and not painted. Hope that helps, Fraze

Hang in there ! A few years ago I put a wanted ad on this forum and about 6 months later I had a reply which resulted in me buying the car I have now. Cheers, Fraze

Thanks for the heads up Rob. I bought stuff off Ashdown Ingram a few years ago, the had a sales counter in their Melbourne warehouse. I will give them a try,Fraze

i need to replace the brushes in my Bosch LJ/GG 160/12 1800 R3 generator. I think that the Bosch number is B5754. I have searched various web sites including Ebay but no luck. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction? Thanks, Fraze

I have Fram accessory oil filters on both of my Greys. The way the Fram is made is that the oil return hole in the centre tube is some way up the tube. This means that oil always remains in the cannister and cannot drain away. This is a bit of a nuisance when doing an oil/filter change because to complete the job the cannister has to be emptied. I bought a Kinchrome "sucker" to suck the oil out. This is like a bicycle hand pump in reverse. When refilling, I put the new filter into the cannister and pour in oil till it fills up, then refit the cannister lid. tThen fill the sump in the usual fashion. Oil level always stays correct. Fraze     PS I also have a Porsche 356 and it uses exactly the same set up.

Hi Clay, I don"t know who did the work on 1 and 2, but my FC wheel cyls were from Trade Brake and Clutch in Springvale, Vic. but I can"t really blame them as they don"t do their macining in house any more but send out to a" specialist". Cheers, Fraze

Whilst I agree with the theory that SS liners in original wheel cylinders is a good thing, in practice those SS liners can be a problem. It takes areally skilled machinist to  bore the wheel cylinders and press in the SS liners with the correct fit. where do you find someone with that sort of skill working in a brake shop? i can recount three bad experiences with resleeved wheel cylinders in recent times. !. My son's HQ Holden - had the rear cylinders sleeved - both leaked between the cyl and sleeve. 2. A mates early porsche with drum brakes - same thing, had all the wheel cylinders sleeved and several leaked between cyl. and sleeve.  3. Just last year I had all four wheel cylinders on my FC sleeved. straight away one front leaked, badly fitted sleeve so i replaced it with a new cylinder. then about 6 months later the other front started to leak also. I checked the rears and yes, one of the rears was showing sugns of leaking. So I replaced all of the wheel cylinders with new ones - no more problems. When I did the brakes on my FB ute recently i went straight to new wheel cylinders. Cheers, Fraze

I did mine recently. After several unsuccessful attempts to get the L of the trim to seat properly in the rubber I had a close look and realised that the trim was a bit distorted. I found i had to gently bend the L of the trim so that it met the rubber groove squarely. it then "clicked" into place - job done. I figure the SS trim must have got a bit distorted whilst I removed the original windscreen from the car and/or when i pulled the trim out of the original, very hard, rubber. Cheers, Fraze

Hydroblast cleaning gives the Aluminium a nice satiny finish. Fraze

I had same thing happen to my speedo and as suggested, it was the speedo "head" running dry. That is the actual drive where the cable goes in. I ran WD40 into it, several applications, then light oil. I worked it in by driving the speedo with my electric drill. The speedo head revolves anti-clock wise so put your drill in reverse. When i could rotate the drive by hand freely. i put it back in the car and now it works just fine. I didn't have to dismantle the speedo. Cheers, Fraze

I just sarted my engine for the first time, and drove the car, after a full engine rebuild. I fitted a steel timimg gear but retained the original crank gear. The engine had a pronounced tinny rattle, more a fluttering noise at idle and at light throttle openings, but is quiet under power. i figured that it had to be the timing gears. I have now done 130miles and the noise has almost gone, down by a good 80%. I figure after another 100 miles or so it will be gone completely. This is ny FB ute.
When I did my FC sedan a few years ago I did the same, steel timing gear and original crank gear and never heard a peep from it, quiet from day one.
Just out of interest, Fraze

I would be interested to know what the "developments from suppliers" is please Vern? I have a Rare Spares rear window rubber in my FC and it won't hold the trim in properly. Thanks, Fraze

thanks Nathan, I have actually got hold of a headlight bucket so all good now but thanks for the reply, cheers, Fraze

I used Resomat on my ute, I think it is the same as Dynamat but different brand. Sticky as hell and a bugger to get the adhesive off your hands. Very easy to "form" i used the handle of a screwdriver to push it into the grooves in the floor and back panel behind the seat. Cheers, Fraze

WTB Lucas headlight  "bucket" (the bit that goes into the mudguard behind the headlight) Must be Lucas. happy to buy and pay postage to Melbourne. Thanks, Fraze

Even if you fit new cam bearings they should be line bored/honed anyway.

Interesting comment about the rework of the floor pans to make them fit. I recently fitted Taylors floor pans to  the front of my FB and had the same problem with alignment of ribs. The outer edges where the meet the sill were 8 - 10mm short! I fitted Rare Spares rear pans and they dropped right in with no rework apart from trimming the edges. Cheers, Fraze

WTB Speedo drive gear (the bit that screws into the side of the gearbox) Specifically I need a 22 tooth unit ex an FX- FJ gearbox. Thanks, Fraze