Thanks Rob. I will read all the good advice & make an "executive" decision on where to go.  Kevin.

 Can anyone give me a contact for a revised repro main bearing seal that does not leak?  I remember some discussion on this, however, can't find the thread on the Forum.  Cheers in advance , Kevin.

Very pleased to view these photos. Thanks for posting them.  old-blu

Can't make it this year. Hope all goes well & will be looking forward to seeing pics when posted . Safe driving .Cheers old-blu.

 Me again.  Of course they go across the top of each door as well. Count up the round holes. old-blu.

 Hi Stinky.  Remove the door cards & count up the number of round holes. They go down each side & across the bottom of each door.  Simple!    Cheers old-blu.

I am guessing that this Grille Emblem was one of my items sold @ the Vic's Auctiona few years ago. From memory, Dennis was the successful & only bidder @ $500+. Can't see this going for $100-$200! I have collected 4 of these over a 25 yr period.The other 3 went on Miss Mullum. Old Blu & Bruey[ the wagon I restored for Mt Gambier]. They are a beautiful accessory & are now being repro'd with a chromed plastic base. This may reduce the auction price, however, the originals are very collectable & a real conversation starter in any display. As someone whose opinion I respect said to me a long time ago:" they are too pretty to put on a car! I have a NOS one stored away for safe keeping". Deep pockets needed on this one I predict. Cheers old-blu

 Just to complete the story! I took one of my restored grilles to a R/S Franchise. the Manager said that he could sell these for $800. I took it home & stored it in bubble wrap, deciding to save it for " 'RON"!  I will include a grille of each model as part of my items in the Vic's Auction 2017.  [ That's providing my "slinky mate" hasn't booked me a seat on his next plane out ].... as explained in my post, " Cars for Sale" page 4 " Death pays a Social Call"    old-blu. 

 In relation to this grille..... if the extent of the pitting is as minimal as shown, then it would suit an everyday driver. The price is right @ $ 200- $250. I have recently restored a number of both FE & FC grilles to Show standard. This involved sandblasting & powder coating the frames, triple re-chroming each piece, sealing the rear of each part, cad plating the self tappers & re-assembling each grille complete with new bump rubbers.  The restoration cost for each grille was $ 600. That does not include the time involved in buffing  each part in preparation for the electroplating.freight & time to reassemble.  if only the decision makers @ GMH in the 50's had used brass rather than diecast. then this post would just be academic. I should also add that there is an initial cost in obtaining the grille in the first place. To be fair, who would have guessed at that time, that these great models would one day , be so sought after?   I spare a thought for members about to commence the Restoration journey.  old-blu.

  I am still looking for a SUNVISOR for my modified ute. Having missed two that were sold "yesterday", I am having another try.  I am located in Brisbane & will happily meet the market & cover postage. I am now enjoying the Retirement era, so, can travel if that is the better option. Anyway, if you have a complete NASCO visor, or know of one , please contact me via this Forum. Cheers old-blu.  [0732548476   0408674552.]

 Take the wheel to your panel shop. They will resurface & paint for you. They can repair any cracks as well. cheers old-blu

 Just a word of warning with die-cast.  Don't get sucked in with "electro-forming". If you don't know what that is... that's a blessing!  Rare spares in Qld. sends chrome to somewhere in Vic. As Ken suggests, take the time to source the best die-cast pieces you can.  This avoids trying to chase out pitting. Cheers old-blu.

  My guess is that the FC tailgate " was designed to leak"! That's how I live with the frustration anyhow!  old-blu 

  Wagon rear door glass removal & refit is made easier if you remove the door opening strap & fittings @ the internal base of the door. This provides more wriggle room for both glass & fingers when handling the main window glass.  The rear 1/4 glass rubber seal is available. Make the refit easier on yourself by applying rubber grease before pushing it back into place. Flick the outer edge of the seal with your finger nails as you push it home. this allows it to sit flat rather than cup back against the glass. If your have lost the top rivets which hold the divider in place, then small s/steel self tappers will do the job.  Hope this helps.   Cheers old-blu.

 Cannot be done without removing the 1/4 window from the door frame . Follow steps in manual.  I had both 1/4 windows removed & refitted in 2 hours today on my ute.  old-blu.

  Having rebuilt 6 vehicles for entry into the Nationals from 1991 through to 2016, my suggestions gained from experience would be:
                                         # Spend time to locate a "good vehicle" & align yourself with the Panel Shop who will become involved & then get them to check it out. Don't buy on emotion
                                         # 60 year old original rust free vehicles do not exist. Two "barn finds" with storage periods of 20 & 28 years, still required rust repairs to the A pillar, floor pans & subframe.
                                         # Decide on your budget & then run it past  your partner!  Enthusiasm will soon evaporate as the dollars disappear.
                                         # Park the vehicle in the shed for as long as it takes to collect the parts you will need. This may take "years". I found much satisfaction in this part of the restoration.
                                         # Be realistic about what you can do, as against what you will need to pay others to do for you. [ rust repairs $30/ hr  for example].
                                         # If you are dismantling your pride & joy then, get hold of a workshop manual, collect containers with lids, I purchase takeaway food ones, ice cream containers, heaps of boxes, masking tape & marker pens.  Identify every part you remove  to avoid much head scratching down the line.
                                         # If you are doing a repaint, then remove the Subframe & repaint that first. If you 1/2 do the paint job, you may regret overlooking the Engine Bay.
                                         # Rebuilding grey motors is becoming very costly. You may require a "donor" engine". 
                                         # organise the chroming, cad-plating yourself. Others have a special skill in losing parts which you will then have to replace.
                                         # When you have digested all of the above, find a vehicle someone else has carefully done & BUY that!   It will be much cheaper than ending up with another unfinished project.
                                         

 Thanks Dave  It was sold 1 week ago.  So..... there is still one out there with my name on it!   Cheers old-blu.

 Hi Peter.    Thanks for your reply. Could you send details to my email address please?   kevinwoolard@bigpond.com   Your phone contact would be great.  Thanks old-blu

 Still looking for a Sunvisor guys.  If you know of one, please contact me via this Forum.  Cheers old-blu.

Thanks Guys. I am looking for the 2 piece Sunvisor with the centre Bracket, alloy front moulding & Stainless side brackets. In other words, the common NASCO "front verandah" one.  If there is a good one @ Castlemaine for around the $150-$200.  Maybe you could get the guys contact details & I can then follow up.  Kevin.