Hiway sun visors are at Chipping Norton now, I bought my door weather shields from them. May be worth a call?

Hey mate, if you are still looking there is one S.A. Relisted??

Well done Mal looking good.
Gary, a few others have used the Mustang tanks, they will take up most of the boot so you would loose the spare wheel well in the sedan.
They come in 3 sizes,
18 US gallons —-14.98 imp
20   “     “           16.6    “
22    “     “          18.3    “

I’m with Clay, the simple designs work best. I used two supercheap engine stands mounted with cut down bonnet hinges and adapted fear bar irons and 50x50 tie beams for support. I have seen the type of  rotisserie you have and the guys using them weren’t impressed.

Hi Rod, there is no crush tube as such! It is a rectangular box section roughly 50x50x90mm. If you have a look at at my build page (My FC Rebuild),you will see how I repaired mine. Also there are some good shots of the bottom Apillar sections showing the measurements as well. These photos are of an original ute that has not been repaired. There are also reproduction panels for the inner and outer sections for bottom of the pillars.
Hope this helps you out,
Jim

Thanks mate, the last one I did was fairly tight

Finally have an update on the retooling of the special rubbers. New stock is expected in July, so I have marked it in my calendar to check in then and see how they go.

That one on eBay is for a wagon!!

Hi Pete, I’m with Rob, if the roof lining hasn’t been changed there should be holes in it where the mirror was? If there are no holes, it would suggest there never was a mirror fitted. In which case, there is a couple of things you can do.
a. gently rub around the area and see if you can feel the holes.
b. if no holes find the centre between the visors, place some masking tape on the roof lining and place the mirror in position and mark the holes. Use the correct size bit and carefully drill the holes and fit the mirror.

No mate, just typed in Amal carnies and scrolled down the listings

Check out eBay, there’s a some for sale ??

Because we’ve moved into a retirement village I’ve had to leave the car at a mates place so I get to it when I can. With all the new laws with the virus, I haven’t been able to do anymore work on it since March.
New screens are available and I’m still doing a bit of work here and there, so depending on where you are, I may be able to help you out if you need.

Hi mate, can’t help with the screws but the mirror stuck to the screen could be problematic. Most stuck on mirrors are there to stay, the two part glue used is normally very strong and in most instances will break a chunk of glass out of the screen or crack it all together when being removed if it’s a laminated screen. Depending on the type of mirror it will be either screwed or a slip on over the base plate, so you can remove the mirror and leave the base on the screen. I’ve never tried, but you could see if acetone will soften the glue as all the screens I replace either have a new base on the screen or I just break the old one off and reglue it to the new screen.

There are two types of covers, from memory one has eight holes and the other has ten.

Thanks Vern, I’d love to be at your stage now but I’ll keep plodding along and get there one day.
Jim

Sorry Helen, I was referring to the sedan, I’d forgotten that the post was about ute doors, pays to check before posting comments!!
Jim

I’ve noticed that there have been quite a few more views on my page, so I thought I should give an update. Since my last post I decided to remove the offending sills and replace them with the NOS one I had acquired some time ago, the quick fix approach didn’t work and after looking at what I’d done and how it looked I bit the bullet and crabbed the grinder. With our recent cruise and the mates place being flooded and now the lockdowns, time on the car has been limited once again. Hopefully this or next week I’ll be able to get back into it and get it all sorted as this is really the only thing stopping me from having the car painted. I think I will also need to replace the bonnet as there is rust bubbling through below the letters and across the rear corners as well. Will post some pictures when I have the sills done.
Jim

I have a correction to make in my post from last night, the inner door seal actually goes from top to bottom, not from the waistline as I had stated. It kept me awake for a while thinking about it, so I checked it out and found a picture of the seal in place on a used pillar that confirmed my suspicions.
Jim

There seems to be a lot of confusion here, early Holdens don’t have a pinchweld mould, that came out in later models and was used around the body openings to hide the headliner. Depending on the model, it was either plain as pictured by Roybeth or with a rubber seal glued on which then formed the door seal.
The early Holdens had a rubber inner and outer seal that was installed into channels around the door openings and the gap that was left between the headliner and the door openings was taken up by the windlacing as stated again by Roybeth. It’s been a while since I pulled my sedan apart, but from memory, the inner door seals run up the inner section of the “B” pillar front and rear from the waistline up to the roofline and the outer door seal runs around the whole door opening.

I just went back through my build page to see if I had put photos of my seats on, but no. I remember taking spring sections from another FC seat to replace broken ones on my frame. I also removed a couple of coil springs from the left side and replaced them on the right side as it sagged as well. The spring were secured to the seat frame by the tags as pictured. Mine is an early 59 car and the donor seat was late 59 with the embossing across the top both cars being specials.