IMHO the paper element filter fitted from late 59 onwards is far better to use unless you’re trying to achieve 100% stock. The oil filled unit is messy and way too easy to spill oil out of when you remove it too quickly and tilt it just a fraction too much.  
I did once make an oil filled unit into a paper filter by cutting out the mesh section, so that is a possibility as well.

Yep, send an email to the club.

Ken

The Vic club have the exact same product at club price. The Vic club organised the production of this item and purchased a large quantity at a special price.

Ken

The FC specification issued by GMH states that either primer followed by underbody black (375-1646) or primer followed by dipping black (366-1690) is the required finish.
So, underbody black or chassis black would suffice.

Ken

Vern I’m not a fan of using fibre timing gears at all. But given a choice, I would use the genuine Holden one before an unknown other brand.
Back in the day, there would have been many different manufacturers of timing gears just the same as bearings and piston rings etc.

Ken

Checked my old pics of the green FC and it is right where you show it Alex. For some reason I thought it was mounted on the reinforcing panel.

Ken

That is tricky, I’m thinking early FE ahead the FJ about light which is totally different.
The conventional FE FC boot light mounts on the panel which is missing in early FE.
I will look into this a bit further.

Ken

Same as the front door upper clips

Took me quite a while to put this together, a lot of these clips are NLA and alternatives are used by clip suppliers

Ken

That is super neat Cam. Well done as usual

My cost estimate comes from the Vic auctions. The last rocker cover sold there was a Speco and it went for over $200

Ken

I too have not seen many of these, however, I’m not sure rarity increases value except to collectors.
I think $200 to $250 as a period rocker cover would be around the value, but a collector may pay more than that.

Horn circuit is earth switched as you say John, so if you take apart the connector at the bottom of the steering column and earth the wire, the horn will blow.

Ken

So the trail of power is as follows
Battery to horn
Horn to connector at steering column
Wire goes up steering column to brass ring
Contact set with little spring etc rubs around the brass ring in constant contact
The contact set protrudes a mm from steering wheel and is in constant contact with circular ring
When button is pushed the ring pops in and contacts the centre of the steering wheel and horn blows.

From your description it sounds to me like the last step is not happening right, is ring damaged or corroded at all so that it is not earthing on the steering wheel centre properly, or not touching the contact properly.
As you say, if you short the contact to the wheel centre it works, so that’s all I can think of.

I have had that problem John and I never found a solution for it. Only one car I owned did this repeatedly nearly every morning I got it out. Mine was the left front wheel. I was wrecking quite a few cars at the time and what I did was took the entire front brakes off another car and put them on the problem car. No new linings or machined drums, nothing, just swapped everything.
It actually worked, the car never had problems again.
It does seem to me that it does not happen on every car, and I don’t know what the mechanism is that causes it.

Just a reflection.    Ken

Yes, a hot air gun works really well, the bitumen has a fairly low melting point and will scrape off easily once heated.
Ken

I would have to 100 % agree with Rob, the headliner will not stay in place if it is not stuck down correctly under the front and rear screens. It has to be glued and folded OVER the lip of the roof and then the screens put back in.
Just adding to the windlacing a bit. The lacing has to be removed in order to replace the headliner so it is a good opportunity to fit new lacing, however it is pretty fiddly to get it right down the A pillar. Rob puts it well when he describes it as making a big job bigger, but there is one other consideration. The windlacing is held in by spikes in a metal retainer attached to the roof rails. When you pull everything out, you straighten out this retainer and align the little teeth so that it will work correctly. You really don’t want to do this twice especially if you have a new headliner already in place. So I would recommend replacing the wind lacing at the same time as the headliner

Ken

Rod, I’m sure that the uprights have different castings to cater for the bump stops on steering lock. Other than that they would be identical.
You would not be able to get any where near full lock if you had mixed uprights from left to right or had two of the same side.

Ken

Should have bolt holes going through the firewall. A photo from the back should show bolt positions.

Ken

Tex, originally both springs would be the small ones. Check the actual boot hinges themselves, the hinge for the FE has a shorter tang which retains the spring. If you have an FE hinge with FC spring on it, it’s more likely to fall off. If you have an FC hinge then the wider FC spring will fit ok and it will locate formerly in the retainer.

Ken