Sorry Craig, only black knobs with a stainless steel insert were available.  These were a problem with FE's and FC's right from the start and it would not surprise that an enterprising person may come up with a replacement end such as the white one in Craig's car,  I have even seen one with a Shilling piece in the end !

Ken

Ray - I have been thinking about your question for some time before replying.
Basically all rubber kits are the same having a generic shape but missing the fine detail that the original rubbers had.
I don't think any are worse than any others, although some older rubbers from around 10 years ago which were solid unlike todays hollow versions were hard to use.

The problem mainly comes from 2 areas.
The lack of molded corners on the repro rubbers
Inconsistency in the metal channel where there are panel joins.

The best example of this is the bottom of the quarter vent window on the front doors.
I have seen repro rubbers not fit well in this area but I have seen them fit as well, so it is not just the rubbers fault.

When I fit repro rubbers I like to cut out the molded corners from originals & glue them into the repro section to get the best fit.  Try treating the repro rubber as a starting point only and do some trimming and adjusting as neccessary.  Rubber Magic also works well to help doors close better.

Ken

Great work Craig,  a few of these cars will be at the Nats but the majority will not.
Hope you enjoyed the day
FC stock was won by the Blue/White sedan, second to the white sedan and third to the FB prototype grey sedan.
FE stock was won by the 23k mile car and second to the grey and white sedan.
FE modified was won by the pink sedan
FC modified was won by Alan Hale's black sedan

Regards  Ken

I have to say that all the genuine Nasco aerials for FE/FC I have seen had blue tips.
It can be very confusing because there were AWA and HMV and other aerials all around the same period and some had steel tips, others had red tips etc.

For instance the guy on ebay who is selling what he states are early Holden aerials with red tips are CERTAINLY not Nasco aerials for FX through EK.
They may well be aerials for early Holdens, but I presume the majority of readers here are wanting Air Chief aerials, or at least to make the aerial they have as clos the an Air Chief aerial as they can

Ken

Here is a trick I have done on a few occasions when the subframe does not line up quite right.
Grind a spare long nut down to a bullet head shape and this serves the double purpose of lining up the holes as you hit it through and protects the thread as it goes through.
Then simply remove the cap when the bolt is installed and put on the nut.

Ken

Digger, One of my early cars had a C 5 spd and I am quite sure it had the stock C rear mount on a custom built rear bracket.
I never had any shudder problems at all but have certainly experienced the shudder you talk about on a red motor with Aus 4 spd - as Gree suggests, I had a worn clutch.

Ken

Sorry - Ive been on holidays.

Peter, my records indicate your car is a Dec 58 van, everything lines up body no, chassis no & eng no.
I guess the receipt was simply dated wrong.

Gree - your car has the wrong chassis for the ID plate - maybe you already new that.
The Id plate would date the car as June 59, but the chassis no gives Sept 58.
Both these dates are fairly approx as the numbers dont align and there is no eng no to cross reference.

Ken

Naomi,  I have pics which you can look at.  Send me a pm if you wish - I am in Vic.

Unfortunately cannot post them though.

Black and white interior was not typically with red and white car - most have red and black interior.
I have a record of one red and white car though with black and white interior which must have been a special order.

Ken

Paul, when I said crossmember, I meant the crossmember under the front floor, not the front suspension crossmember.
Bolt height dimension you asked for is about 2 inches - standard HR front engine mounts cut from the front and moved to the back.
Ken

Mick neglected to mention his standard wagon has no indicators and has the blank fitted in the column.
Very amusing watching his long arm stick out the window every time he turns a corner.

Ken

I'm with Gree, I think the engine has been leaned way back.  My Trimatic rear mount is level with the crossmember under the floor and this has the engine sitting on the correct angle.
I used a EK Hydro floor, but the crossmember depth is the same as the FC, I used a slightly modified HR gearbox mount for the rear which is flat.

The trans in the picture seems to sit about 3 inches below the crossmember, and I think it would be a real problem with a lowered car.

Ken

Slim, I probably dont have to tell you - but for all others who read this - be BLOODY careful welding petrol tanks.
Best way is to flush thouroghly with water and leave some water in the bottom of the tank while welding.

Naturally the tank must be removed to do this.

NEVER EVER EVER attempt to weld up a petrol tank by  removing the plug in the bottom to drain the petrol and welding it in place in the car.

Ken

Unfortunately the metal reservoir m/c's do not interchange with the plastic ones.
Dont make the mistake of recoing the m/c with the metal top if you dont have a good tin to put onto it.
Also you will have to check that the cylinder you use is not pitted or scored inside as it will leak again after not much time.
For absolute best results, have the m/c stainless steel sleeved.  All brake shops will be able to have this done for you.

Ken

Recoing door hinges is not too dificult.  If yo like, send me your hinge and I will reco it.  Its very hard to find good drivers side door hinges without worn bushes.
Price is $50 each
Other problem is that a replacement hinge does not necessarily fit the same as the original does.

Ken

Richard - should you be alarmed now or still stay alert ?

Do you think that it's possible that terrorista are targetting the NSW FE/FC cc & they got the wrong night ?

He He He

Slim, how did you do the very rear panel for the ute using a sedan headlining ?

Did you cut and join a few pieces ?

Ken

Kylie - you may have a problem with Standard material for the seats and door trims because it is different to the Special material.   This material is quite hard to find, especially the door trims.  Slim was wrecking a Standard sedan and may have some good trim, I've also got some Standard door trims - In green and a few in Blue.  What colour do you need?

Regards   Ken

4 hammers would be the best person to talk to - are you aware of the Tassie car club - quite a few FE's and FC's in this little group.

Ken

Twitch, none of the jap gearboxes will let u keep the (unmodified) bench seat, there was a discussion about 2 months ago re mods to an Aus 4 speed which allowed the use of the bench.  Try searching for this thread - I'm sorry I couldn't find it after a quick look.

Ken

Peter - a "Thornton kit" is a generic name for a kit made by Thornton Industries for all ear,y model Holdens.
In fact the Detroit kit is a Thornton kit as it is in the Thornton catalogue that I have a copy of.
I think Flamed is right - the Detroit kit rearrangement seems to be what it is as there is nothing in the catalogue which looks like that.

Ken