Gary - I have a set of sliding windows for the drivers side of a van.  These came from a 3 door FC van I wrecked.   The glass is broken, but frames are in good order.

send me a pm if interested.

Ken

The tools shown are correct. The screwdriver has "TURNER AUST" on one side of the handle and "TUFFLITE" on the other side.  The spanner fits the wheel nut on one end and the spark plug on the other.  The pliers can be identified by a cross-hatched pattern on the handles. The bags are also varied in material although I must admit I have not seen a floral pattern, all those I have seen were a single colour bag with a contrasting trim around the edge. Not sure yet which models had the press stud type and which models had the tie.

PS if anyone wants a set of tools as pictured-  I have a set for sale  - pm me if interested.

Ken

A guy in our club has had an upper gate made with no window and will finish the van soon.  It is being made as a copy of the van in the FC sales brochure, complete with the florists signwriting.  Should be a top van as it is a full ground up resto and a lot of NOS stuff has gone into it.

Ken

Dear fcpv, firstly if you are going to criticise - have the guts to state your name.
As president of the Vic club, I believe that the way in which the Nats has been promoted has certainly affected the number of entries from our state, as do others on the Vic committee.

Also if you read the responses, you will see that the Vic club were not the only ones complaining.

This will be discussed at the Nationals delegates meeting and hopefully guidelines will be adopted to promote the Nats in there best light.

Ken McLean
President  FE/FC Holden Car club Of Vic Inc.

I have a sedan rear venetian in vgc in Melbourne

Ken

Peter, Great car !

What are the colours of the car ?

Looks to be a pale bluey green which is very unusual.  Can you provide the details which are on the ID plate.

Regards    Ken

Be wary, Commodore stud pattern is not exactly the same as HQ/WB.  Don't make the mistake of putting a Commodore wheel on a HQ/WB wheel - it wont come off.
I have only been at Hoppers Stopppers for 6 months now and already we have removed 3 Commodore wheels from HQ/WB's.
You get them off by heating them up in the centre and belting the tyre with a rubber mallet.

Ken

You must have the key to remove the ignition correctly.
The switch will only go to the lock position with the key inserted, then push a hairpin into the release hole and turn lock to the left and the barrel will pop out.
If you dont have a key you will have to force the screw on ring over the lock barrel.

Ken

FE Ute, you will find that assembly plant has nothing to do with body number sequence.  The Adelaidde factory produced bodies for SA and WA consumption.  Cars were shipped out as required and no particular state has the higher numbered vehicles.

Ken

Jim - small screw on the side of the knob allows u to remove it. Then undo the chrome retainer on the front allowing the switch to come out to the rear.

Ken

I didn't know that EK utes ran into EJ
Don't know the answer, but GMH seemed reluctant to use the B prefix if earlier examples can be relied on.
The FJ utes and vans ran into FE production and these engines used U prefix to keep them separate.
Ken

Ed, I may be wrong but EFI requires a return line as well and the ideal thing from my somewhat limited experience of this would be to install a VN or later pickup unit in your tank which would solve all problems in one go.

Ken

The highest number I have is FE-2106-7258-S. Lets assume that this is pretty close to the end of production.
Feb '57 to May '58  is 15 months production RET, so if we divide 7258 by 15 and lay out in months we would find Jonno's ute in about mid Feb 1958.
I could get this more accurate with more work and even more so if a chassis number or engine number was known

Ken

I'm pretty sure I have a number of both single and double globe holders original FC - NOS.
Also have quite a lot of perfect condition s/h ones as well.
Send me a pm if interested.

Regards   Ken

Slim absolutely - So few people such as you and I sell parts consistently and I welcome you back.

Regards   Ken

Harko - I don't believe anyone does this piece

Ken

Kevin, the answer is not always so simple as you may expect.
How much work do you want to do on the car yourself or pay others to do?
If you want to buy a restored top quality car with nothing to do - 10 to 15K would be reasonable
Good quality car with little work to do to maintain - 6 to 10K
Registered car but needs work on body etc - 3 to 6K
Unregistered car which needs resoration - 1 to 3K
Prices may vary depending on rareness of body style or extras that come with the car.

Always look for the best body shell you can find, it often pays in the long run to pay 2K more for a better body shell especially if you are paying others to repair rust.
Grey motor costs about 1.6K to rebuild but good secondhand motors are available pretty cheaply.

Hope this helps - feel free to ask anymore questions that you like and welcome to the site

Ken

Tony, the lay back seat was not a factory option and was therefore always made from an original bench seat.
This involved removing the covers, cutting the frame, installing a hinge and release mechanism and then retrimming.  I have seen at least 5 different conversions so far - some a whole lot better than others.  The worst I have seen was a seat I just got which had pins you removed from under the seat and the back just falls down - no adjustment at all.

Ken

Craig, might be a good idea to turn up to the run on Sunday as you may get a surprise

Ken

Graham, the genuine screws are chromed phillips head with a domed top.  Similar to the scres used on the visors and mirror, just a little smaller.

Ken