Unfortunately the switch does not fit FB/EK - the linkage mechanism changed at FB and the switch screws onto the column rather than being clamped behind the linkage bolts.

Ken

Very appreciative, this is the first Perth Van ID I have got and it is also the highest Perth chassis number as well as the highest van body number.  This would have to be one of the very last FC vans built ever.

Regards  Ken

They are original colours - car belonged to Rob & Trish Wright I believe - previous member of Vic club and NSW club as well.
Olinda Green over Adobe Beige - 1958 model

Ken

Simon, Do you mean the 2 legs on the front chassis going back to the body or the lower suspension arm on the front crossmember, commonly called the wishbone?

If it is the former, this is a fairly difficult job for the inexperienced and involves some carefull measuring & cutting to get it right.
If it is the latter, much simpler - remove wheel, place jack under end of wishbone to take weight off spring, remove the bottom kingpin bolt and wishbone nuts.
Replace wishbone being carefull to centre wishbone on suspension.

Ken

I've just had a Wibroc dash fan offered into the auction - I dont think there was a Nasco dash fan - Does the one you're thinking of bolt to the dash and have exposed blue or red plastic blades?  If so - this is the Wibroc fan.
It should appear in Leigh's next update of the auction list.

Ken

Rob - this is a very interesting ID plate.
It appears as if GMH have put an FJ ID plate on this van.
Does it really say 50-2104 or is it FC-2104
Original colour is India Ivory, but 662 trim code indiates green and black interior which would be very strange for a van - but then again it may be a special order.
Can you check please and I would really love to get the chassis number if it is a Perth van.

It should be FC-_____-P since 10320 is a very high number and is certainly late in 1959

Regards  Ken

Slim, all FE & FC spats are the same which are also the same as FB/EK ute/van.  FB/EK sedan/wagon spats are different.

Ken

The Vic club extends its congratulations and support as well.  As mentioned above - as soon as you have a club address we will send newsletters.

Regards  Ken

Weedy, top effort - its not until you do this that you realise just how hard it is to do.
May I suggest supporting the car in a number of places whilst working on it in this fashion or welding in a brace or 2 to keep the body from bending.

Also consider putting back (or at lease tacking on) the first quarter before removing the other one.
Quite a lot of flexing and bending will go on while you are working on the second quarter if the first is not returned, especially if you are going to take off the sills as well.

Maybe you could also consider a set of floor to point measurements so that before and after are the same.

Hope this helps - keep up the good work.

Ken

Trent, be very specific when getting this done, plastic media blasting is what you should have done - not sand blasting.  Sand blasting is very severe and if done incorrectly can distort panels such as doors and guards.
Plastic media blasting is my preference rather than dipping.

Ken

Rob,  can you please get the body numbers and chassis number for me.   Very hard to find ID details from WA assembled vehicles and I would love to find ID details from FE or FC vans, standard sedans, standard wagons or business sedans.

Ken

Trent, FC 49690 S is a 1959 chassis number - my quick calculation would place it in June 1959 - just about right in the middle of 1959.

Regards    Ken

Craig, there is a small coil of wire which is energised by the voltage coming from the sender unit.  The resultant magnetic field is what moves the needle.  I dont know if there is a lot of heat there, maybe just a little bit - but surely not enough to melt the lettering on the glass.

Ken

Yes I have seen David's van - an absolute beauty.
Unrestored and in top condition.  He has plans to fully restore it one day.
I've seen the green one on the road but never caught up with the owner. He appears to be an older guy who uses it as everyday transport.

Ken

Vinnie - as RET says - you should do what pleases you, but be aware that if part of the reason for building the car is to show for trophies etc, then scrutineering may penalise the vehicle for being non original.  Usually scrutineering will accept colours which are very close to original but will not if they are obviously not authentic looking.

This is not to say that people will not like your car or even think that it looks better than original, it only means that it will be looked upon for judging purposes as non original.  Does this make sense ?

Ken

Absolutely right, I have about 20 fuel guages at home and they vary from good to absurdly bad.  Certainly when they left the factory they were all perfect lettered and the fluorescence was still there.

BTW  I have a NOS fuel guage if anyone is interested in it - $40 plus postage.
Sorry if this shoul go in the for sale area - just thought about it when this topic came up.

Ken

Panel vans did not have rear side trim in them, but had the same rear inner sheet metal as the wagon, hence lots of van owners over the years got inner trims from scrapped wagons and fitted them to their vans.

Delivery vans modified by Baileys motors came in a number of forms
1. Van with side windows - no rear seat
2. Van with side windows and rear seat
3. Van with side windows, rear seat and LHR door
4. Van with side windows, rear seat & both rear doors

Their were variations with sliding rear windows, fully trimmed rear compartments and full headlinings depending on customer order.

Even the fully optioned van was still cheaper than buying a wagon !

Baileys literally made hundreds of these vans according to the original owner whom I spoke to when I bought some replacement rubber for the windows.

My van had some unusual features, the headliner was screwed to the roof and glued on trim board, not bows.
The 3rd door trim was screwed to the door, not attached with clips.
The rear seat, mouldings, clips and hinges were hand made, not from an FE wagon or new from GMH as you might expect
The rear door check strap was welded to the door pillar.
The rear door rubber retainer was screwed to the body - not like a wagon at all.

I have seen quite a few of these although very few remain on the road.
I have body numbers etc from at least 20.  I know of 2 three doors on the road and two which are in storage awaiting restoration.
Zulu in NSW has a 2 door van with rear glass and I think a rear seat, but cant remember now.
A number of vans in Vic have also had the full rear glass treatment including sliding windows.
I guess they are a bit more common in Vic since they were built here.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Sorry Slim, I missed your earlier post re pictures.
I don't have a photo of the end gate but I have seen it.
The outside looks like yours, the inside has been very carefully joined so that only the outer skin has been welded up and the inner skin remains with a clean end, just as the original would have looked.

Ken

Kevin, I have the instructions, can send them to you if you like.

Ken

Here is the low down on electric wiper motors.
All EK's had single speed wiper motors, and there were 2 types - Preslite has a turned steel case with about 5 rings machined into it, whilst Delco has a sheet metal case.
In 1962, Nasco released a 2 speed motor that would fit onto the FE, FC & FB model.  It uses the original cable operated switch and has like a washing machine action to change the circular motion of the motor to back and forth motion.  Easily identified by having the same switch block on top of it as the vacuum unit.
This is the very rare unit.
All later model wipers (except EJ & EH Special) were 2 speed but the problem is that the wipers on all these cars move parallel to each other rather than opposed like on the FE and FC.
Therefore the solution is to fit the 2 speed field motor from EH Prem or HD / HR or XP Falcon onto an EK base with the EK arms on the back.
I have now come up with a new conversion which uses a power park such as on Commodore and is a superior unit to the earlier conversions.

Summing up; EK Preslite motors are needed for the EH to HR style conversion, whilst both types can be used for the new conversion.


Hope this helps

Ken