Q: when the car was originally designed, was the radiator produced with normal operating/ driving options in mind a two row core only ? or was there a three row available for , say taxis or vehicles prone to hot weather , or prolonged high speed ? . I have found in my shed , would you believe after nearly sixty years of owning FEs  a new radiator I didn’t know I had . It’s a two row . Tab on core says Natracoolercore. A product of national radiators mfg pty Ltd Australia . It looks brand new ,just small indent in the core .so any ideas. Cheers John .

Yes , we were on the verge of going (2weeks) & it’s a long way from Perth to get stuck over that side of the country . The decision to cancel , by all was the correct one . Cheers

Thanks very much , Ken & Rob , I do recall way back there was a problem with the bearings . & I had to take them back to get the correct ones . I worry too much & im sure the ones on the car will be ok . I try to pre/empt problems . Ie prevention is better than the cure . Especially with our fourth Nullarbor trip coming up . Cheers . John

I have a June (mid year) built FE , are the front wheel bearings the same right & left ? Also would anyone have the the original part no . or an equivalent no from a bearing supplier . I know I can the no off the ones on the car , but would like purchase them before I start taking things apart . Cheers John

We will be driving over from Perth (again) for the 2020 nationals at Wangaratta in our FE , it will be a good test for the new head gasket, as with previous trips it can still get quite warm out there.around the end of March . Results so far , since it has been fitted are very encouraging. Temps between the head & the top tank are only maybe 1 to 3 deg difference. Where as before up to 8 deg difference. & a big thank you to Harve for that . Cheers .

Having to tow you back across the Nullarbor Graham , would really test my gearbox , radio volume up or not 🤪

Hell ,what do I say . Thanks Rob& Harv for all that info , I have to sit back & take it all in , I have a mate who did his box quite some time ago so will be engaging with him with the information you have both given. Plus your tool loan offers Harv . Very much Appreciated it’s good to know that like minded people are out there to help us less mechanical minded souls .    I might add I’m having a devil of a time getting on to the forum it’s telling me it’s    403  Forbidden I’m getting around it but it’s not secure, I will copy all this info for when I need it . Cheers John

Thanks Rob , the best way to describe it is , when in first gear going up an incline , so under load , it makes a reoccurring noise like if you say the word NOT quickly & repeatedly. Not not Not not not .  If that’s any help , everything else seems ok once up & going , no jumping out of gear or anything . Cheers John

Thanks very much Rob for your input , I’m thinking more of what’s going to happen down the road , my gearbox is making that familiar noise , you’ll know what I mean , a friend of mine who is very knowledgeable in the grey box has suggested it will be something I will have to address down the road so to speak . So I have procured everything he has suggested over the last 12 months . He mentioned the shaft I was looking for , so was hoping to get one . But he also said like you it can be done being careful using grease . I will do Wangaratta ( from Perth ) the way it is and see how it goes. But I believe to at least be prepared with the parts should the need arises.   I think I told you .that the modified head gasket & the necessary drilling of the block & head have worked a treat with only on avg 1to 2 deg difference between the radiator & head , where as on the Canberra nats run it was more like 8 deg difference. Thanks again Rob , any time I need info I’ll get back to you cheers . John

Thanks Ken, if I can’t get one that someone else has made up already ill look into you suggestion . Cheers . John.

Just wondering if anyone would have the shaft 7A2 as shown in GMH manual , they would be willing to sell . I will be wanting one when I do the box up in the Not too distant future . or even the precise dimensions of the shaft to get one made , cheers . John .

Probably of no use , but i had a clunking noise in my grey , even went from WA to Canberra with it. It turned out to be crankshaft end float . You could put a jemmy bar down at the harmonic balancer and pihisically move it back and forth . Now has a new crankshaft ,

This is probably a no brainer , with a external AC type oil filter fitted to the grey motor it seems to me that extra oil would be required to fill the canister. ?  If the engine has been running & turned off will the oil return to sump so when you check the level after a few minutes it would appear at the full mark , when in actual fact it’s running a bit low , being the amount that goes in the canister. Cheers John

Q: is there on the market a replacement muffler that suits the original standard FE grey motor ?  Obviously I have a muffler on my car now that does the job , but just wondering what others are using.single tail pipe, oval shaped , full bore , reverse flow type muffler . Is in the workshop manual . Is there a identification number relevant to the said muffler that the industry uses:   Cheers  John .

Thanks Rob; I have a second fuel pump as a spare ( you know me ) the trouble with me is I like to know that the spare will work when needed , but your right , I’ll let sleeping dogs lie and carry the kit with me . Wangaratta next run to come , cheers

I’ve noticed in the kit available that the diaphragm is of one thickness(layer) only as opposed to the original AC type which was comprised of multi layers  , any thoughts on this ? I’m having doubts that it will work , or as effectively as the original, made   You know where . Cheers John .

Well , good news , got the vent cover out , I was getting a bit frustrated as to why it wasn’t cooperating and would you believe it was the rod connected to the handle ,though loose it had to unscrewed from short threaded rod spot welded to the underside of the vent . Happy days. Plus no rust , the old seals adhesive was still tacky from the factory the new seal will see me out . Cheers . John .

Thanks Ken , I’ll get it , as you get older you bruise easily, I’ve wrapped my right wrist & up to my elbow in duct tape & rags to help . Trying to get the nuts off the vent bolts . lol .

Further to the on going saga , I unscrewed the glove box to gain entry to the two top bolts on the vent . Got that done, removed the nut & small bolt on the handle. The lever that lifts the vent . Still won’t come out , thought maybe it’s the water drain tube behind tappet cover that’s the problem . No . I’m wanting to remove it as Ken says and clean it out , paint it whatever to do a good job . I’m tilting it back toward the windscreen to no availe . So shut the shed door . Calming down & having a beer 🍺

Thanks Wagoon? , I’ve been trying to four small nuts and philips head screws out so can lift the whole vent out , the two above the glove box are testing me . The other two are out , I may put one back in and try what you have suggested. It’s in good condition rust wise , but if i can’t get in to clean it up if needed taking the vent off may be the way to go . I’ll post here as to how I get on . Cheers