Looking to replace (at least the lower seal) on my 1957 FE anyone have a parts list with the part number please . I could wait till the old one is off to get it ,but if someone can supply the no that would be great . Cheers , John .

Just to annoy everyone even more , re boot seal , I was looking at my old original seal , as you do , and I noticed at what appeared to be as the seal approached each corner or bend it was segmented or had been cut & and a small (very small ) section put in . I presume to help it from twisting or the like when installing it . In other words it seems it wasn’t in one continuous piece like we do nowadays . Or maybe it was ,but the joins helped to place it in position . Just something the old bugger noticed wiling away time .🤔cheers .John

Thanks Vern , your a gentleman & a scholar, I have some of the original seal from when the car was new with paint overspray on it so convinced it’s in the right way . Yes , lid is going to be shut for awhile to see if that fixes the bulge problem . I’ll also go the completed projects section now for a look see . Cheers John .

Thanks for your replies: Errol 62 & Rob. Much appreciated. I’ll leave adjusting the striker .if required down the road , if leaving the boot shut for a while doesn’t help . & yes Rob the seal is all tucked in  . Cheers ,John .

Have fitted the seal , supplied by Old Auto Rubber. Penrith NSW . And as near to the original so far . & it went in really well . When closing the lid I noticed an area of the seal just (oozing) or bulging out slightly, & the lid taking a bit more of an effort to close ( understandably) . on one of the sites I was looking at when trying to find a company who sold them I noticed in a caption, that adjusting the striker may be required slightly, so not so much of an effort to close the lid and in turn not pushing out the seal. I have a spare lid and see there is no adjustment possible with the four bolt holes attached to the lid . The boot lid itself is slightly misaligned when you have a good look ,but could have been like that since new. Anyway I have shut the lid & will leave it that way for a week or so to see it that helps .   Has anyone else had a similar experience. ? Cheers .John .

Hi Vern ,yes I’ve been on to Mark old rubber co , he’s sending me what his company is offering, the original was a solid foam section , as opposed to other on offer . Have everything prepared to take the new seal . I’ll go for old rubber co , to try . Once glued up difficult to remove

Anyone have a good experience with a replacement rubber boot seal ? Rare spares have one , but not quite the real deal . A couple of companies advertising, appreciate any feedback. Cheers . John . Ps . I’ve added a photo of a section of the real McCoy . That came with my car from new .

I spent about 15 minutes earlier replying but  it must be wizzing around in cyberspace. Thanks to all for the input ,very interesting. Cheers John

Further to the saga . Just checked dipstick oil level (cold) it was showing overfill , & the filter canister was empty. The penciled arrow in photo shows where level was. So as I see it all should be well once the engine is up & running. any thoughts. (apart from , have a cup of tea & a nanna nap) cheers . John .

Thanks people , what I have been doing when changing the oil is get the engine hot with a run , then take out sump plug . The two or three times I’ve changed the oil the filter can is empty, I’ll go out shortly & check the dipstick level (cars been sitting overnight) & take off the filter canister top off to see what the oil is doing .if the dipstick level shows on the full mark , & the canister is full of oil . Then to me it would be running slightly high in volume of oil ..just me probably worrying about something I shouldn’t be . Thanks for the feedback. Cheers .John .

This subject has been on my mind for a while & I had put question out on one of the Grey motor sites without success . Q: a couple of years ago i fitted a external AC oil filter to my FE , (grey motor ) so when I change the oil , do I fill it to the normal full mark on the dipstick, or add extra to allow for the additional capacity of the filter can ?  If after going for a run does the oil drain back down the inlet hose thru the oil pressure switch to the sump ? I know there is a simple answer, I’d hate to think the engine was a bit short of oil , though the oil pressure gauge light would light up . Thanks in advance , cheers .John.

Thanks Ken , have sent You a PM .    Vern , thanks for your information re the indicators .very much appreciated . I am in contact with my mate who seems to be very confident in doing the work as he , like you has done the same on his car. If there are any problems I’ll direct him down Robs& your advice path . Your right about people behind seemingly oblivious to your indicators going , whenever I pull into my drive , I put my arm out like the old days , that confuses them even more LOL .  Cheers . John .

That was quick , thanks Rob , I have a mate in the club who is very clued, & has done his car,& is going to do the job . He uses Narva orange globes , I’ll check on the legalities of it before doing anything .i have the orange lower pieces. I don’t mind doing things if it helps regarding safety , but I’m also mindful of not straying too far from the originality of the car . I’m not sure of blackys contact details, but I’ll get around that .that info ,would be good . Cheers John .

Looking at putting in separate indicator globes in the vacant hole in my FE Special , at the moment it’s running as original, stop ,light &indicator on the one double filament globe . I presume they may have been available as for a reversing light fitting ,the lower part of the plastic rear light on mine is white .the fitting would have to be for a single filament globe . I know rare spares sell something that will do the job ,but I would prefer the real thing. Just enquiring if anyone may have two for sale l/h & r/h . Photo shows the area & vacant hole . Cheers John

Very interesting there Vern , & appreciate your time in letting me know your experience. The driver side is the main culprit. I have a mate in the club who has a FC & has been down this road . So I’ll advise him of what you have said . Thanks very much . I’ll post on here when it’s done .(hopefully).                                                And also thanks to you ROB for the reply.  Cheers John.

I’m in the process of re setting my doors , I’ve noticed that kits available show only two clips used on the top hinge only.( the clip stops the door from closing if you want to keep it open for some reason) but on my FE on the passenger side there is two clips top & two on the bottom . On the driver side there is only the two at the top . Anyone know how it came out of the factory. Photo is of left hand side (passenger) bottom hinge showing broken clip

Thanks Rob, I must admit to having being told that on one or more occasions . LOL . Cheers .John

How about this one ? Looks original , full width core . & the core itself seems to be of the 50s era .this was a spare I would carry with me to the nats etc , being an over cautious type .cheers John

Thanks Rob&Ken, for that , it makes you wonder if they came out as Ken says , why would you replace it with a two row . They did a good job for sure .even the support tab holes are perfectly round & the pipes top & btm  are as they were straight off the assembly line . Anyway thanks for your input(s) cheers John .

Thanks for the reply , no it’s a two row for sure , the one I have in the FE is a three row ,I had that done when I was having the heating issues with the car . If you go onto the fe/ fc Holden enthusiast group site, I have a couple of photos of it. It’s tab fixed on the core says Natracoolahcore . To me it looks as new . Just a slight indent in the core . There is also at the top of the tab , HOL.902l2S that’s the letter EL, between the twos .