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1  For Sale and Wanted / Parts Wanted / FC Fuel Gauge on: May 11, 2012, 06:08:28 PM
G'day I am chasing a fuel gauge for my 59 FC . Email me at mostard@bigpond.com.

Cheers.
Mustard
2  Technical Board / General Technical / Re: How to - Changing Door Seals on: April 22, 2010, 10:22:27 AM
Craig A - no the rear doors weren't a problem on "Black Betty" but around the front doors and the guards were, but a thin line of glue did the trick and the use of rubber magic also helped. After I finished the job when I was happy with the "Fit" of the seals I left the doors closed for 2 weeks straight and let them bed in and this helps also.

TTV6FC- No mate she wasn't black to start with she was 2 tone grey but I'm glad for that I like the black better. The plate details are as follows.

Body -  FC/225 29300M
Trim -   254 - 247
Paint -  253-7773
Insert - 253-5300
Top -    254-7773

Freddyc - Sorry about that mate but as soon as I get the Delorean out of the shed and up to 88 MPH I'll make it up to you. lol


 
3  Technical Board / General Technical / How to - Changing Door Seals on: April 21, 2010, 09:40:39 AM
Img 9 to Img 14
Right you've had a practice and are feeling confident lets glue those suckers in.

Before we go any further let's talk about the Glue It's called  "Loctite 406" which I got from Rare spares. Its basicly a super glue and as such will stick the rubber to the car in seconds (This is good ) as well as to your skin (this is bad). It can be unstuck by going down to the chemist and asking the lasses there for a bottle of super glue remover but they will know this product better as Nail Polish remover or accetone. Get some before you start keep it near, lest you spill some of the 406 in your lap and end up gluing something together you'd rather not of glued. OK there endeth the safty lesson.

Now when you use this on the rubber try to remember less is more you only want a thin line of glue 1 to 1.5mm wide as you don't want it squelching out the sides. You only want to glue the base of the rubber to the base of the channel and try gluing about 30 to 40 mm at a time in the begining other wise the glue will dry before you get to push it in the channel as you get better at it you can do it in longer sections but remember the longer the section the faster you'll have to work all well and good if you can do it. Just remember when you teararse you'll make mistakes. Better off taking your time.

I positioned the bottom part of the rubber which is the bit where the 2 drain notches are cut out central so each notch is about the same from where the channels start to curve up (see IMG-9).


Now start to work you way up the channel until you get to 75 to 100mm from the right angle top corner. Then start from the other side and work up until you get about the same distance from the top as well. Leave the base (Scuff plate bit) unglued as this can be done last.




Now we come to the tricky bit the 45 deg join. (Check Img 1st Cut to 4th Cut.) O.K. this is how I do them first I cut the vertical rubber at 90 degrees and leave it about 12mm longer than the top of the channel this makes it easier to hold against the channel and mark the height of the top of the channel. Now cut it so that it sits in the channel right to the top.
If your not sure leave it a bit longer and then push it into the channel to see how it fits better to be a bit long and re trim it then cut it too short. Now remove the vertical rubber and do the same with the horizontal one till it too fits snugly against the side.Doing it this way makes sure that you have the exact length that you need.









4  Technical Board / General Technical / How to - Changing Door Seals on: April 21, 2010, 09:39:23 AM
First a big thank you to Stinky for helping me get the pictures on to photo bucket. The link to the photos are at the bottom of this page.

I recently had to change all the door rubbers and boot rubber on my FC "Black Betty" and so I start this how to guide with a big thank you to the blokes in the forum for their advice info and Pics who made my job easier.  I would like to pay it forward as they say so to those of you who are about to rock.... er I mean rubber.

If the old rubbers are still in place take time to study where they are now and how they look and take photos of it if you can. all this will help you later on.

I do apologise for the black on black photos but I hope it gives you a bit of an idea as to how to go about this job.

OK here we go.

Img 1,2 As you can see all the doors and boot lid have been removed and stacked on shopping bags filled with old news papers.




You'll have to remove the door trims. Mark around the hinges so you can put the door back to where it was before. I had all the bolts loosened and then I got my better half (Thanks Jude) to remove them and then I could lift off the doors. I couldn't undo the screws from the front hinges so I had to undo the bolts from inside the door. Don't forget on the back door you'll have to remove the rear door check strap from inside the door as well.

Img 3,4 Shows the fun I had to remove the old rubbers and the silicone that they were held in by. I used a couple of old screwdrivers to dig out the bulk of the silicone and then I used a curly weave Plastic buff (available from Bunnings) to clear out the rest and any traces that were left were taken care of by a good hard rub using a course rag soaked in "Prepsol". (Check to see if the paint is Perpsol safe on a bit that won't be seen later like under the scuff plates)




Img 5,6 Shows the cleaned out bailey chanels and the finished spray afterwards.




Img 7,8 Shows the tools of the trade one is the "Olfa" Knife available from bunnings its good as it allows you to adjust the blade length and the second bit of kit is called a "Fid" and is used in leadlighting it is made of tough nylon and fits in you hand perfectly and is just the right shape that lets you push the rubber into the channel with ease and also if you slip you won't do any damage to the Duco.




OK so now your ready to start gluing the rubbers into the channel.... Hang On Whoa Up A Minute !!!

First off have a go at fitting the rubbers without glue it lets you get a feel for the job before using glue and this will save you making any cock ups later.

I did it this way on both the doors on one side and it made things a whole lot easier when I did start to use the glue. Plus it lets you position the rubber in its right spot to start from which you can mark with a pencil and you can also mark out where you'll have to cut the rubbers to go over the hinges if your set of rubbers don't have the cut outs (Re Rare Spares) so you'll be able to cut these bits out before you start. A little tip when cutting rubber is to dip the blade in water for a frictionless cut and cut it in one direction only this will give you a straight as a die cut.
5  Technical Board / General Technical / Re: Changing Door Seals on: April 19, 2010, 02:42:08 PM
It's Ok Stinky I found it . As my Mrs would say I had a boys look .
6  Technical Board / General Technical / Re: Changing Door Seals on: April 19, 2010, 02:40:26 PM
Thanks Stinky. Whats the email address there buddy ?

Cheers.
Mustard
7  Technical Board / General Technical / Changing Door Seals on: April 19, 2010, 11:47:51 AM
G'day you mob, Mustard from Darwin Here.

I would like to thank the people who posted threads on how to go about changing door seals which made my job easier. And now I would like to Pay that kindness forward so to speak. As while I did the job on my "Black Betty-59 FC" I took heaps of photos (29) and made notes on how I did it and what tools I used etc and made a how to guide.

I have set up an account on Photobucket but when I try to upload them it gets to 3 % and goes no further. I followed the steps on the forum for using photo shop and "saved for web" has any one got an idea what the problem might be ?

Or would it be possible to have the photos  hosted on this site? I would be prepared to burn the photos to disk and send them to whoever is in charge of putting stuff up on the site to check out before hand or I could give them my email address so I could email anyone who wanted this info directly let me know what you guys would like and if anyone in the Darwin area needs help on changing seals I would be prepared to come out and lend a hand to show how it's done.

Cheers.
Mustard
8  Technical Board / General Technical / Mystery engine noise on: October 06, 2009, 07:12:24 PM
G'day All. Mustards the name.
I have a 59 FC special sedan and her name is Black Betty. I hope that this might help someone else that might run into this problem I had with Betty.

All was well until a noise which sounded like it was coming from the sump. A knocking noise that just about disappeared when the revs were increased but when on idle sounded like she was in her death rattle.
Hmmm.javascript:void(0); Start easy and work your way along. So I started with the harmonic balancer and since I had a new one sitting around changed it out as the rubber was starting to perish. Also checked timing gear all OK there. Removed rocker cover and side plate, so far so good removed sump check all bolts and the oil pump, "nothing to see here move along" as the wallopers would say. Remove the gearbox and BINGO 1 bolt from the flywheel was loose and was catching on just 1 of the spring retainers of the clutch plate. There was just a little shiny metal where the two were hitting each other. I remover all the blots a drilled the heads so once re tightened  i could wire the 2 sets together so if they did come loose they won't be able to go far.  javascript:void(0); Hopfully this won't happen to anyone else but at least if it does you might be able to use the info here.

Cheers.
Mustard
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