Craig,

Your power rheostat setup is essentially what GM recommended.  It goes in series with the load (if I understand right).  And for the load, the manual suggested making up a lamp bank with switches.  The ammeter is needed to measure the current.

Using constant-current loads allowed me to do away with the ammeter, but at the cost of less-than-ideal behaviour when turning off the high-current loads.

Rob

Craig,

The generator test setup's three phase motor could do with more oomph, but you make do with what you can scrounge from work . . .

The other problem's got to do with switching transients in the dummy load.  I'm using low-dropout voltage regulators with booster transistors as constant-current loads.  All fine in theory, but the practice is a different matter.  The regulators can turn off way faster than the generator can react.  I had an FJ Bosch generator on full song, and turned the 20A load off.  There was a coughing sound, and the magic smoke came out.  The field current had to decay somehow, and it did so by generating a huge voltage spike, which took out the lower-current sections of the dummy load, and the cooling fan.

I've thought up a soft-start and -stop system, but it'll use a voltage reference and op-amp instead.  Still to be implemented.

And don't admit that you've had experience at rewinding DC machine armatures.  I have a couple of 6V Delco generators needing armature rewinds . . .

Rob

Craig,

I've got a Bosch generator which spat the armature windings on the way out Harv's one fine afternoon.  It's basically only good for mechanical parts, and brushes.

Rob

A couple more mouthfuls of elephant *



There were a couple of rusty parts of the rear quarter panel to repair, above the parting line.  It came together well, but it's not good to weld when it's windy.  I was waiting for the brief moments of calm before pulling the trigger.

Rob

* As the old joke goes, "Q: How do you eat an elephant?"  "A: One mouthful at a time."

As promised.



So this is the repair for the inner wheel arch.  I made it about this time last year and then sidelined it until I got onto the rear quarter panel repairs, which is sort-of now.  I want to have a go at welding up a couple of pinhole rust holes in an otherwise good section of the rear quarter.  Need clear access to the inside of the quarter panel.

It lines up fairly well, and I think the profile's OK.  I don't want the very bottom corner to stick out above the profile of the rear quarter panel.

(And the pinhole-welding went OK.  Again, it looks straightforward by eye, but when you're sitting on the ground wearing a welding helmet . . . even the end of the handpiece blocks your view.)

Rob

. . . and PM'd.

Rob

Craig,

6203LL for Bosch, 6202LL for Lucas.

Rob

Time for an update . . .

Fine weather at Albuquerque.  Annular solar eclipse very impressive.  But it's time to dispose of an urban myth: there ain't no such thing as a Bugs Bunny "should've toined left at Albuquerque" T-shirt.  Time-Warner (or whichever media conglomerate they are today) won't license the design.  The guy at the T-shirt shop in Old Town told me I was the fourth person so far that day to ask for the Bugs Bunny T-shirt.  On the other hand, Breaking Bad merchandise was walking out the shop.

Back on topic.

I chopped out a piece of the donor FJ passenger's door to make the repair piece for the RHR quarter panel.  It seemed fairly easy, because the bottom of the rear quarter panel is largely a curve in one dimension.  Before going to the US, I had it approximately bent to shape.  But it's the detail which is time-consuming.  I marked up and hammered in the lower part of the "boss" where the rear bumper bolts on, and got the repair piece to the stage where it would largely sit in place.  Usual story, though.  The closer you get it to its position, the worse it fits.

Under the rear bumper is a part where the edge of the quarter panel does a quarter-turn upwards.  Where it joins to the inner panel is a section of a plane . . . so I needed to blend from the curved profile to a flat one.  This is where a sandbag is a help.  Effectively what I had to do was shrink the edge down.

Now the outer repair piece sits in place a lot better.  But there's still some work to do making the lower return of the inner quarter panel repair conform to the profile of the outer.  I think I've over-bent the return.  Should fix easily, once I'm sure what I'm doing.

Ha.

Photos to come (I hope).

Rob

By memory -

It's easiest to change to 3/16" brake pipes - the same as FB onwards.  The hoses for front discs won't suit the FC's 1/4" brake pipes.  Use the brake pipe distribution block from an FB or EK.

You need to replace the outrigger on the HR front crossmember with one from an FB or EK (FE-FC may work, but I don't know whether an FE-FC crossmember is the same height at the front).  The holes in the outrigger for the front engine mount (if grey) may need re-drilling.  Red motor engine mounts are your own problem.

You'll need to use an HD-HR rear axle, noting that HRs have 2-1/4" wide rear springs, while FCs have 2" wide rear springs.  You will need to put 1/8" wide spacers on each side of your rear springs to suit the HR rear axle.  Also, the rear brake hose (FB-HR) is only just not long enough for an HR rear axle.  I hear that a certain model Ford brake hose is a bit longer than the Holden one.

Or, you can use an EJ-EH rear axle, noting that EJ and EH also have 2-1/4" wide rear springs.  You will need to relocate the EJ-EH brake pipe bracket to the same position as the FC, and get new brake pipes for the rear axle.

The later model rear axle bump stops are on the rear axle, not the body.  Remove your FC's rear axle bump stops.

Rear handbrake cables are a hassle.  I'd suggest using an HD-HR rear handbrake cable, with the following warnings: Cut the rear handbrake cable mounting brackets out of an HD or HR and weld them to your FC's rear floors.  The HR handbrake cable is a little too short, so you will need to make a couple of sheet metal strips and use an extra clevis pin to "bridge the gap" between the FC cable equaliser and lower handbrake lever.  I hear that a conversion rear handbrake cable is available from Rare Spares.

The later model rear axle will require 9/16" bore wheel cylinders and shoes to suit the smaller diameter cylinders.

Remove the check valve from your brake master cylinder.

Use a VH40 brake booster, with new pipes from master cylinder to booster, and from booster to brake pipe distribution block.  Install a T-fitting in the inlet manifold if you still have vacuum wipers.

When installing the HR front suspension, use all HR bolts, spacers and rubbers, except for the outrigger rubber, which is FE-EK.  You will have to remove the battery and tray to gain access to the left front crossmember bolt.

I'd suggest re-using your original FC steering linkages, but I am probably alone in this.  If you want to use HD-HR steering linkages, you will need the HD-HR pitman arm and idler arm plus support.  The HR drag link will have minimal clearance to the sump.

The FC's front sway bar is usable with an HR front crossmember, but you may need to turn it upside-down for better alignment of the rubbers.

Get four HR wheels.  FE-EH wheels will not fit.  HD wheels are acceptable, but will give you 1/2" narrower track.  Your FC wheel nuts will suit HD-HR wheels.

Persuading the authorities in your state to register the car after you've done the conversion is your responsibility.  You may need dual circuit brakes and other safety equipment.

Rob

Craig,

There'll be a spacer missing.  I had the same problem with one of zulu's generators.

Working your way toward the front of the armature, there should be -

Inner Splash Ring
bearing inner race
intermediate ring
pulley and Woodruff key
lock washer
armature nut

I reckon the "inner splash ring" was helpfully thrown away by the last person who "reconditioned" your generator.

Rob

Craig,

The later FE-FC manual has an exploded diagram of the Bosch generator, as do the FB and EK manuals.

The felt and wave washer have probably been removed because the ball-bearing was replaced with a double-sealed type.

When you say "loose around the shaft", what do you mean?  Axial end float, side-to-side movement at the commutator end (sintered bush), or side-to-side movement at the drive end?

The field coil insulation in the Bosch generators is paper, and it's common that it falls to bits.

The major hassle with Bosch generators is replacement brushes.  Bosch stopped making them years back.  The aftermarket part number is BS754, and Ashdowns still has a few sets.  Except that they don't sell retail - you need to find a co-operative auto electrician to order them.

Rob

Craig,

Your experience is exactly like mine.  I put HR front discs and rear axle, with VH40 booster, into the ex-family EK.  Come pink slip time, my father was full of gloomy prognostications.  The mechanic who inspected it did a brake test in the servo's forecourt, stood the car on its nose, got out, looked underneath and recognised the HR front suspension, wrote the ticket out and said, "best old Holden brakes I've ever had".

Rob

I warned you about scope-creep . . .

The moment you change to an HR front suspension, you'll need to have an engineer certify the installation.  And I think dual circuit brakes become mandatory, and a collapsible steering column, and two-speed electric wipers, and a heater/demister.  It's not as easy now as it was in (say) the '80s.

Rob

742... part numbers are EH/HD vintage.  This is where we need Clay with his master parts catalog.  Mine dates from 1957.  It lists 7409631 as the brake master cylinder, and 7412001 as the clutch master cylinder (body, not assembly).

All master cylinders are 1" bore, and are functionally equivalent (except for check valve in the brake cylinder).

Rob

[if both master cylinders are correct for the model.]

Craig,

Original equipment master cylinders helpfully have "brake" or "clutch" cast in relief on the side.  Post the part numbers if you can read them.

Brake and clutch reservoirs interchange if both master cylinders are correct for the model.  But - both the cylinders and the reservoirs were revised by Holden, twice, I think.  EJ, EH and early HD had tall, narrow tin reservoirs.  Late HDs and HRs had plastic reservoirs.  You can't take an HR reservoir and expect it to fit an FE-EK master cylinder, because the threaded part is bigger.  And the later brake master cylinders have slightly wider webbing than the early ones.

So it sounds to me like your clutch master cylinder is the later type, while your brake master cylinder is the early type.

Are (the remains of) your reservoirs both the squat, wide ones?

Rob

The worst that can happen with a MAP gas torch:  everything will fall to bits, because either the cap or the reservoir will have soldered seams . . .

Rob

Craig,

It's time to get serious.  If you have a blowtorch, *gently* heat the lid of the reservoir and see whether you can unscrew it (leather gloves!).  You might have to heat it until it smokes and the rust turns black.  Hopefully you don't have to go cherry-red.

Rob

Craig,

The master cylinders' compensating port will defeat you if you use the grease-gun.  I'd suggest an ezy-out of the right size.  I have (shh) also used a 7/16" or 1/2" UNF tap.  Once it "bites" into the piston's pushrod hole, it's fairly easy to extract the piston.

And to remove the master cylinder reservoirs and caps, preheat oven to just above 100 degrees, put the cylinders in the oven, then remove the caps and reservoirs.  Wear leather gloves.

Rob

Image Uoploading:

https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=5613.msg31835#msg31835

Rob

Craig,

Triple SUs are by no means a "bolt-on" setup.  At the least you have to remove the battery tray and relocate the battery; and also make substantial modifications to the firewall.  If you don't already have an account on FB-EK, now's the time.  Clay and Brett both have put triples on their utes (OK, so on red motors, but the principles are the same), and somebody on FB-EK has a thread showing how to connect a throttle cable to the standard accelerator pedal.

Oh, and "scope-creep".  You have been warned.

Rob