You can find out all about the KLEZ virus here: http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.gen@mm.html, and download a patch to clean it here: http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.removal.tool.html.

A free virus scanning tool that has had good press can be found here: http://www.grisoft.com/html/us_index.htm

Hope this helps.

Oh, and another thing.  One copy of the virus I received this week had an image attachment of a boxed Nasco "Auto-Home" electric razor accessory attached.  If you have a copy of such a picture on your hard drive, you're probably (one of the people) infected.

cheers
RET

Like Ed, as a mac user I'm impervious to the virus, but I'm still getting several copies a day - I've received upwards of 60 copies in the last two weeks.

Anyway, here's are a couple of tips (if you must use Outlook):
1.  Make sure the 'Preview Pane' is turned off.  (Choose View/Layout and uncheck the 'Show Preview Pane' option.  Click OK.)
2.  Turn on the 'size' column in your inbox.  (Right-click on any of the column headings - eg the word 'Subject'.  Choose 'Columns' from the menu that appears.  Check the box labelled 'Size' and click OK.)  Another column will appear that shows the size (in Kb) of each email.

The reason for the 2nd suggestion is this.  Something that I have noticed about emails infected with this latest virus is that they are consistently around 120 - 130KB in size.  So being able to see the size will help you to know if a mail you are suspicious of has this signature.

A couple of even better suggestions:
1.  Get a Macintosh    Apple's MacOS and MacOSX operating systems are impervious to these PC virii.
2.  If that's not feasible, download Eudora and use it instead of Outlook.  It has much more robust security.  I have heard Outlook described as having security holes "like a colander made of Swiss cheese".
3.  Make sure you have up-to-date virus software that you use regularly!

Hope this helps.
RET

consideing the car doesn't have an engineers report and i will have to any way is it worth the changeover
to a 202 are the benefits signifecent enough for the hassle

You don't need an engineer's report if you can prove the car was previously registered with that motor.  Check with the local registration authorities, but in NSW this can be done with a microfiche search for $20.
I concur with Ken - unless the 186 is clagged, it's a better motor than the 202.

also i have a friend who has offered me a 253 which needs some work what are the possibilities of using that

As per Ken's previous answer about the 308.  The block is the same for both Holden V8s, small block chev is an easier job.

I'm happy to help you with answers, but we seem to be going around and around the same questions now.  Please re-read what everyone has written so far - there's some worthwhile opinions and advice in there.  Again, my advice to you is to rank these three things:  

• Horsepower
• Time
• Money

What's most important?  Are you more limited by money or time? Make that decision and then choose the path that best fits within those constraints.

cheers
RET

thanx for the advise i do think i will go with the 202 for now anyway but at the moment the utes got the hr front end with a 186 is it a lot of work considering how far it has already been and do i still need the engineers cert.
is it worth the time and money with the comparison of the motors and the idea that i will probably change the motor later on anyway is it worth just rebuilding the 186

Was the ute previously legal with the 186?  If you can prove it was, you don't need an engineer's report - there was a discussion about this only a week ago in another thread.  If that was the case you'd be mad to swap a 186 for a 202, since you'd almost certainly need a new certificate for the new motor.

one more question what would a 327 shev set me back with gearbox

Check out http://www.tradingpost.com.au

finally in regards to the seat belts the ute has the ugly bolts protuding from each side i noticed a while ago that someone said you can do it without the holes is it possible to reverse that

It's straightforward enough to fill the holes and fit the seat belts using some other method.  It might mean a trip to the engineer though

cheers
RET

... and as for time, only you know how much of it you've got.  But for what it's worth two friends and I did a grey->red swap in a day, but the HR running gear was already fitted and we left the crashbox in.

Is the car registered now?  If so, you can do the running gear first and the motor later, if you have to work piecemeal.  If the car's not registered, it'll take you as long as it takes you

cheers
RET

michaels57,

Those prices I suggested in my previous thread were based on you doing the work yourself.  In Sydney, you'd be looking at:

• Red motor: $200-400, depending on capacity and condition.  Unless you've got your heart set on the 202, the 179 is a good choice because you can get the EH sump and pickup with it if that's what it came out of.  No pollution gear, either
• If you can't score the transmission you want with your motor, add another couple of hundred for that, (assuming your looking at trimatic/powerglide or 3-speed).  You can even keep the crashbox going, in a pinch.
• HR rear end, drum to drum.  Say $100
• 2 speed wipers, heater/demister.  Say $200.
• Seat-belts front and rear, say $200 (and you might need to get these professionally fitted, figure another couple of hundred for that.)

What are we up to now? 400+200+100+200+200+200 = $1300.  Engineer's report will probably run you to another $200-300, plus rego.  So $2000 wasn't too far wide of the mark.

Some things might be cheaper in Melb, but that should be a rough idea of price.  I imagine you've probably got a 202 and tranny in your HQ-WB stockpile  

Hope that helps.
RET

4hammers,

You should bear in mind that these recipes are for the original enamel paint and not for acrylic - that might result in some colour variation.  Best to point that out when you get to the paint shop so they can take it into account if necessary.

cheers
RET

That very question has been discussed in this thread: http://www.fefcholden.org.au/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=howto;action=display;num=1013380047

cheers
RET

So much of the answer depends also on how much you can afford to spend.  I don't think you can beat the red motor in terms of bang-for-your-buck.  All the parts you need are readily available (except perhaps the EH sump - they're getting rarer these days).  But you can still get HR front end, motor, tranny, HR rear end and an engineers's report for under $1500, if you shop around and fit them yourself.  There are other bits you need, of course, depending upon which state you're trying to get the car registered in.  Even so, $2000 gets you well and truly registered and rolling.

Compare this to the cost and bespoke engineering required to fit a V6 (check out http://www.v6conversions.com.au/ for some of the details).  sgo could tell you better than me, but I doubt you'd get any change out of $8000 for this setup.

Having said all that, going red now and V6 or V8 later is going to cost you even more in the long term, since you'll have to replace everything you just modified again, with the possible exception of the transmission if you go 308.

So, what's most important?
Cost, horsepower or getting mobile (time)?

Making that decision will help you make the other.

Hope that helps,
RET

demon,

It comes back to what CraigA wrote - if you can show the car was previously registered with the mods, you should be OK.  If the car is currently registered with a red, then the answer would be the same, surely

However, getting back to Liam's original question.  The first two items you mention are required under the NSW regs, but not the other two.  Additionally, you will need a heater/demister, electric wipers (2 speed or single speed at 45 sweep/min or faster) and seat belts front and rear.

Hope that helps,
RET

Susie,

I don't know your definition of 'restore', but check out the thread "'Myrtle' for sale" on the Cars for Sale board.

cheers
RET

Liam,

Which state are you in?  It may make a difference.

If you're in NSW, you will need an engineers' report.  The details of what the RTA allow can be found here: http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/vsi06.pdf

Basically, 173 is more than 15% capacity increase over the grey, so that means an eng. report.

Hope that helps,
RET

Not to mention avoiding having hoses pumping scalding water through the cabin.  They make a hell of a mess when they break, or when the heater core rusts out.  Don't they Alex?  

Ken,

Sure - can you email me the template and whatever instructions you think need to go with it, and I'll do the rest.

cheers
RET

coolaride,

That is definitely original - my very first FC had one of those heaters, and in fact I have the fitting instructions for it.  In  my case that thick grey hose had a couple of splits in it, and used to smell pretty bad.

I don't think the fitting instructions would scan very well, since they are on a single fold-out sheet much bigger than my A4 scanner could cope with, and the previous owner had repaired it with sticky tape that's gone a lovely yellow colour, in such a way that it won't actually sit flat .  But I'll have a go if anyone is really keen.  In any case I can give you it's correct name and model code if you're interested.

cheers
RET

I'm buggered if I know what makes you think I've got a thin skin.  But in any case I'm not going to argue with you.  It's nice for you that you have an FE or FC.  It would be nice for the rest of us if you'd lose the attitude.  The people who participate here are very friendly and very helpful - just read the posts - but you've managed to alienate many of them.

Here's two tips for you.

1.  In answer to your 'computer geeks' question, the artistry you see on these pages is done primarily with Adobe PhotoShop.  There are other tools that do similar things, but most of them are toys.

2.  Log out of the 'michaels57' account, and create a new one with a new name.  Just start over with a new identity.  You've developed a reputation with this one, and trust me, it's not good.

cheers
RET

I can't help you with an exhaustive list, but here are some details on the original Air-Chief radios: http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/nasco/comforts/airchief.html

There was also an AWA fascia that fitted in the same spot as the air-chief (replacing the lion-badged panel under the radio grille).  These won't fit anything else, so if you find a radio attached to one of these it's probably what you're after.

cheers
RET

You'll find exactly what you're after here: http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/index.html

These settings are for the 132.5 grey motor, but I'd be very surprised if the 138 was different in this regard.

cheers
RET

demon,

It's pretty much a case of swapping them front-to-back, exactly opposite their previous positions.  You can find an article about it here: http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/tech002.html

cheers
RET