http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspx
Not hard as long as you meet stds and handover the cash to the mod plate guy

Hi a blue mod plate for all modifications 2 speed wipers seat belts thats all I think. There is a list of people who can supply on qld transport from memory

I did mean FE

Hi pete runs strong 308 low 11 high 10s

An fyi anyone running a rear rack torana sump fits easyy 

Always a worry when 0 feedback user jumps in at the end

One of the queenslander club  boys bought one over the weekend 

Was that black leather car was red n white with a V6?

yep

Could be another expensive option i think one guy in our club used the late model 2 door monaro and wsas a great fit.
cheers
grant

That exhaust is gunna be tight out the back of the turbo maybe just remind the passenger about the glow on the floor..


Looks smick  gunna take some chuffing to spool that turbo thats a monster.

Hey Pete, the photo does give an illusion, will fit a 3inch 90 fairly easy yep, will need to run a shield to stop getting toasty.
Turbo wise it runs a smaller housing than profc so i am hoping it will be ok
grant

Ok, finally completed turbo manifold today, boy am i sick of grinding 
Certainly took a bit to get it to sit with good clearance all round.
Turbo is  gt35 size, 45 mm turbosmart hypergate,steam pipe is 1.4 inch , 80 mm throttle body yet to weld to manifold. head is a yella terra steel 12port



I have now modified sump for external oil pump feed and drilled block for external feed, so now i can reassemble engine. Engine will be grout filled to bottom of waterpump, full stud kit,girdle, roller cam



Off to get heat coated



Later in week i will dummy fit intercooler and radiator so that i can set up inlet and outlets for turbo
And then on to dump pipe.

Hi Ret,
        sent you a pm.
cheers
grant

Oldie but a goodie.

Most if not all conventional paint strippers have an active compound called methylene chloride suspended in a wax agent which is formulated to allow the highly volatile (ie it evaporates very quickly when exposed to a normal atmosphere) MC to stay on the job long enough to do it's job of breaking down the paint for removal.

After the stripper is applied you overlay the stripper with glad wrap to help in reducing the loss of the active ingredient due to evaporation so it can be more effective. When you are ready peel away the plastic and away ya go !

We all take the stuff pretty much for granted but it IS DANGEROUS so please take heed of the information provided in the link below;

http://www.nicnas.gov.au/publications/nicnas_alerts/alert_3_methylenechloride_pdf.pdf

Happy stripping

Dave Mac  

Thanks DM, also a good idea to scratch paint with 40 grit

As promised a day time shot



Front end cleaned and assembled, its a rods racks




And it is in no real issue, need to grind a bit of lower control arm as steering arm restricts turning circle



One guard almost repaired 

Stripped the bonnet tonight, all good no rust only a couple of dents to fix
Off to a swap meet tomorrow, then will tkae suframe off.
Will post some more pics then
cheers
Grant

Sorry members I am very slack on posting pics, but i will try to add a few more.
Car is finally back on its feet , thanks to Keith,Simon and Greg from the qld club, we also mounted the front end what a B@#ch



Pic taken tonight, will take a few day shots, colour is burgundy. You can see the chassis strengtheners in place. Hole on right is for 3 inch turbo dump pipe. I have got most of the doors straight and bonnet. Front end is built so should have that  in by end of the week.

cheers
Grant

hi, was wondering if anyone knows if there are reproduction front door hinge springs available. ie the bit of tin that holds the door open.thanks

Hi, they are the same upto hr, so you should not have to much problems finding some good ones at a swap meet

I am looking for an FC sedan to buy, will consider vehicle that needs restoration or something that has already been restored.  Will consider up to $15000.  As I live on Sunshine Coast Qld, open to vehicles located in Qld or Northern NSW.  If anyone has any leads on vehicles which might be for sale, I would appreciate any info.

Hi Mate, pm me your mobile and i will send you a few pics of a fc i have seen on my hols for sale in  the northern rivers. Looked like a good starting point.
regards
grant

Stock block probablly a big single chasing 500 rwp roughlly.

Had thought of Awd but I thought if I go to far I would never see the end.
might do 25 on 30 block in panel van as I have a complete set up.

Hi Pete,
          What turbo are you thinking, the choice seems endless with a lot of opinions between lag and totall hp for rb's.
gt3788r will get you there  . I had a talk to profc when he was at the 6banger nats he runs a gt35r with 1.06 housing @ 30psi so you would need to flow a bit more with less psi for a streeter. i am running same turbo with .82 but am chasing far less hp.
So far all your chassis mods look great will be interesting to see how the four link handles. Look forwars to updates.
I am a bit slack on posting pics on my build but your diff brackets that you made for my hilux diff are all in , fitted great. Will post are few when front end and diff are fitted.
cheers
grant

John253a , search "profc" on youtube for a awsome fc 1/4 miler

Thanks Jim, I will send Stinky a PM

Stinky did my trim, and i can totally recommend.
regards
grant

will def start a page just collecting parts before i take it off the road,
also looking to buy new house in the new year, so if that goes ahead i wont be striping till were in, dont want to lose anything in the shift,
+  it summer and it a car made to drive, so i atleast want to enjoy it for 1 session

the engine i plane on doing very soon, in the new year, already have most of the parts, just deciding on keep the cam i have with or without blower or go a bit bigger and natural aspirated.

but the first thing on the cards for me is to fit seat-belts, cant put a baby seat in without them

No probs, I would think less strain on a grey with supercharged as you can make a lot more torque and not rev very hard.
Grant

mostly i wanted the blower for looks and sound, and its easy to take of and put back to original, were as turbo i need to do exhaust
and i dont plane on engineering the blower,

not to fused if i dont use it, as its only collecting dust at a mates place,

if i went the down the blower root i didn't plane on taking anything off the top on the head,
only 202 or 186 valves, 3 angle seat, stalite inserts on exhaust, debuted inlet and polished exhaust, cc Chambers, port matched flanges, double valve spring, teflon guides, stepped/resurfaced tappets, you no the standard,

i do like the look of twin strongbergs but getting them tuned is a pain if you dont know how or were to get them done,
ive seen a few with 46 jets and fx vales, but no performance figures or fuel consumptions,

that's why i also looked in the Weber's a single 44 or 48 would work well with smallish cam, mild port with a good set of pipes,

after seeing a few other setup i starting to think the 150hp is a no go to maintain any reliability, but 120-130hp or 70-80rwhp is a more reasonable figure

being toying with the option of dry sump but just not sure if the 1500 could be better spent elsewhere for more reliability

    

To be honest I would go with the holley setup, it is much easier to setup as a blow through system than any of the other carbs you have mentioned. If you need any advice if you go down this path I have set-up a blow through turbo setup with holley before with good results. Fairly easy and you can intercool the charge if needed . I think you would be better beefing up crank bearing setup rather than dry sump.
Grant