Glad to hear, missed the start of your build but just went back through it. You have doen a mountain of work so great to see it is still progressing.

Look forward to seeing how far you have come since the last update.

Cheers Jolls

Congratulations, well done.

What a fantastic resto!

Hi Team,

I have a Lucas Stop Lamp Indicator; a bit of a novelty accessory as opposed to something truly useful.



They are installed in series with the stop lamp switch and the stop lamps themselves. The "stop" illuminates and the can provides an audible click if the lamps are functioning. If one lamp is out it provides that audible indication a single flash as a warning and if both are out it does not illuminate or provide an audible indication.

I have never seen one installed in the wild before and I can't find any images on the web. I already have a dual gauge under column bracket in the ute. Where below the dash were these usually installed back in the day?

Cheers

The "stainless" flat bar are alloy ones from Bunnings - can't remember the price , only know they were a lot cheaper than stainless or chrome - I just rounded the ends and polished them.

The extra switches (FC knobs) next to the radio and heater tap and heater fan - the other two on the other side are fog lights and rear window demister.

All going to plan it should be back on the road this Friday.

Cheers

Thanks Wasim,

I'll check out Bunnings for the flat bar.

Best of luck for Friday - a huge milestone.

Hi Wasim,

Like what you have done for the bed in the tray. I assume it is 25mm stainless over ply. If you don't mine me asking how many beer tokens did the stainless set you back? Cheers

Bit the bullet and purchased a new rotisserie.

Hi all ..Stromberg carby ..Item 21 ,power by pass jet in section 6-35 of FE FC shop manual ..I have a few of these and one has 56 stamped on top of it and other 64 and another with no number ..what do these numbers mean ?

Hi Vern,

The pump bypass jets are stamped with the jet size in drill number (e.g. a jet stamped 56 has a 0.0465” diameter hole drilled in it). Not sure of the unstamped one.

Harv has produced a brilliant guide on Strombergs that has all of the information you need on different jet sizes etc. It can be sourced here: https://www.scribd.com/doc/238223610/FB-EK-Holden-Stromberg-Carburettion-Enthusiasts-Guide-Addendum-1

However, if you don't have access to it the jets are as follows:

56: 0.0465” diameter. Standard fitment to EH, HD, HR (149ci); HR (161ci); HD normal and economy excluding X2 (179ci), HR X2 and economy (186ci)
64: 0.0360” diameter. Not standard fitment.

Cheers

It has been a while since I posted and update the ute. But to get to that we need to get a feel for where we are on the house reno!

The house reno is almost complete - ensuite complete, bathroom 97%, painting 90%. I have spent weeks lifting the old vinyl floor planks and stapled MDF underlay in preparation for the new flooring (which is to be laid next week). So I am up agaisnt the clock to have the skirts installed and painted this weekend. Nothing like a bit of pressure!

The best thing about the house reno coming to an end is that the FC resto can get into full swing. It will be a bit like Kingswood Country though - have to move the bikes to the get the FC off the hoist. Get the capri convertible out of one garage bay and put it on the hoist so I can work on the ute. That is much easier said than done - but it will be a great milestone to finally hit.

Despite the reno taking up most of my time I haven't been completely idle. Glenn has all of the parts and is in the process of building me up a set of FC special door cards and late model FC special seat covers, customised for a ute, in fall red and black. I have also purchased a set of stainless scuff plates from Sam Crupi to replace the rusted versions I currently have and I have a new rubber mat being made by Martin at Obsolete Rubber. However, I haven't progressed any further with the engine rebuild or any of the chrome work as yet.

I chased high and low for a second hand rotisserie and I was either too late or too far away to win any offers I put in on them, or the postage made them dearer to buy than a new one. So I bit the bullet and purchased a new one (don't have the time to build one). It will be a longer term investment as the sons and I have a couple of other projects to get stuck into once the FC is finished. Suffice to say - it was delivered last week and, sure as eggs, today one comes up at Wollongong for a few hundred beer tokens less. Always the way!

So there should be some real progess made towards the end of March - only to be interupted by a holiday doing the Darling river run over the Easter/ANZAC Day period.

Just got to take one bite at a time! We are crawling towards the end.

I have now wourced all of the components.
Thanks for all of the help and leads.
Cheers n Beers

one of our club members took some stuff to Bali to be rechromed - the quality was average at best.

I'll save the airfare for a good job!

You wont go wrong with Electroplating Technology at Queanbeyan. Have used them for all my chrome work and always impressed with the work and service. They used to do the die cast stuff but the fellow who did that has retired, so you would have to send that to someone else unfortunately. Brett

Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk

They are local to me and I have also heard good things about their work. Not sure about the pricing though.

Task was to strip both units and rechrome. I delivered the parts to them and picked the finished goods up. The work was quoted as 6-8 weeks and took just over 8. The job required chasing, and I struggled to get calls returned. No blemishes were removed from the sump - any marks that were there were ignored. My bad for not asking them to correct small dings. The sump mounting flange (where the bolts go) was not polished/finished before replating and is rough. My bad for not requesting and paying for a "Summernats standard". The pitman arm recesses were not plated as the part was chromed with many others and did not receive sufficient current, though they offered to correct that. Cost for the job was $577.50.

Some great lessons to be learned there. Thanks for sharing that - noted it sown in my brain box for when I take mine gear in for chroming.

Hi Laszlo,

I would be interested in your findings. I'm not quite at the stage of geeting the rechroming started but I'm also not that far away. I have a shop in Queanbeyan (about an hour away) that has a good reputation but I believe is also on the pricey side. I know the old addage, buy once cry once, but if I can save a $ or two and get a good result I'm all over it.

Cheers

I bought a set in 2022, try the landline above or his mobile is 0491 634 646

Just received a call back from Sam. Lovely fella!
He is still producing them at $80 per unit and $30 postage. He currently has stock but makes more when he gets low.
The scuff plates come with nylon washer/spacers to prevent them being crushed from overtightening.
Once they arrive I'll post a couple of piccies. 

I bought a set in 2022, try the landline above or his mobile is 0491 634 646

Thanks Glenn, I appreciate the lead. I called the mobile and left a message. I'll update this thread if I hear back. Cheers

Hi Brains Trust,

Does anyone know if Sam Crupi is still producing the scuff plates? If so can anyone confrim his contact details or provide updated details?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers n Beers

Very tidy work = great inspiration for those of us that are behind you in the restoration process.

I think I have resolved this - it appears to be too many pictures in the post. Again odd as I have seen post with many more, and larger pictures. Anyway I broke the post into four parts so all good.

PART 4. Finish

With a bit of additional sanding and polishing I expect I could have achieved a better finish; however, I was concerned with how thin the material was. Given I have no backup this will suffice until I source an unmolested piece of trim to replace it with. Once I find a set of "unmolested" stainless trims for the driver's door I will revisit this one to see if I can get it back to its original glory.

Suffice to say there is plenty more life in this part now.

So then it is just a matter of sliding the retainer back in and peining over the end to get it back into service for another sixty odd years!

PART 3.b. Rinse and Repeat

From there it is pretty much rinse and repeat to address the damage under the lip on either side and then straighten the edges of the trim.

To achieve this two additional dollys were created from bolts using the grinder.





Finally the trim was worked several time over the anvil anvil/dolly to ease out the damaged sections, resulting in an acceptable finish.