I have one, that I just pulled out of my EK, was going fine, just swapped it for a supra. Price : Free. I am in Bexley if interested, but I am moving house so must go in a week.

Hi All, don't know if people will be interested, but I am in the process of fitting a Supra to the old EK (I know its not an FC/E, but a close relative!).

I purchased the Dellow 14" forward shifter and this puts the shifter almost 6" in front of the bench seat - in the rearmost position. (I only use this position and know rego will require the shifter to clear the seat in the forward posi)

In the forward posi it clears, only just. May look at limiting the travel of the seat or shifting the seat mounts backwards if it is an issue, I was thinking about moving it back before as I have long legs and dont like the steering wheel so close.

I am planning on using a bent shifter like a one tonner and all is looking good. I will post some pictures if anyone is interested.

I used a CRS chassis kit and hump for all this.

Just excited, cause many people i have spoken to said it is impossible to do, but it is looking sweeeeeet......so far.

Cheers

Cammo  

YA gotta love old cars hey.

I actually replaced the opposite floor member to my problem one, taking great pains to measure it up so it sits exactly at the proper position for the chassis support.

Only to find out later the other side is out........

Thanks for the replies and will make up a plate to suit as suggested.

Am pretty excited about getting the old girl back on the road with the surety of less rust and some chassis support.

Now the plotting continues with the gearbox replacement..........

Hi All,

Not meant to poach your help, but this group is the best and most informative.

I have just fitted the main rails of a CRS chassis kit and upon fitting the subframe assisting chassis (the bit that connects the 3 bolts at the Y to the floor member Chassis ) have found that on the drivers side there is about a 1/4 inch gap between the mating surfaces. ie the 4 bolts that go through the floor member and the front of the main rails and where the subframe connecting chassis goes there is a gap.

Hope this makes sense, but I am ponderous as what to do. Cant see anything obvious, the floor member looks original and is in the correct position, likewise the subframe looks correct.

Maybe I will make up a plate to fill the space.

Any ideas?

Cheers  

What is the best position to weld in a new floor support. I want to ensure the car has correct alignment so all 4 wheels on the ground?

It currently has the front wheels on ramps and the rear on stands, and I think this might affect the positioning.

Just want to be sure to be sure

Are the inner legs the same as an EK, cause it is actually an Ek I am doing up.

Hello all,

I have 2 rusted inner lower subframes on both sizes. They weren't that noticable, but as I am about to put on a chassis kit I was cleaning the area and my scraper went through one.

I had a look on the rare spares site and they didnt have the inners listed anyone know where i can get them (just need the lower part under the seam joint).

Also what would be the best method to repair it, I have a boilermaker friend who can assist with the welding, but can I replace them in the car.

I thought that cutting up towards the Y joint, seperating the lower halves and using the bolt hole near the floor member as a locating hole would be a good way to do it and keep the measurements correct (after stabilising the vehicle)

Waddya reckon?

Yeah, learning to weld is definately on my list of things to do (just one more thing) , but in the meantime... he he. Thanks Col

Hi all,

Anyone here who can reccomend a panel beater to weld in a chassis kit and fit a tunnel in the South Sydney area?

Cheers