I believe I was dealing with Ray I had a really nice chat with him, a very friendly fellow.

I do not think it is oil causing the problem, acrylics are known for this or if it's had enamel on it it will do the same thing. Because so much thinners is needed it softens what's underneath then it frys up or crazes. Best bet is to strip it down to the plastic, then apply a 2k primer filler, these also act as an isolator. The 80 and 120 grit scratches won't come out with 400 too fine, it needs to be stepped up slower. Start with 180 dry then 240 dry, maybe a light scuff with 320 dry to finish off but do not go too smooth or the 2k primer won't have anything to key into. 400 wet to 600 wet is generally prep sanding for colour. I usually go a quick 400 wet grit to chop  primer filler down leaving enough to finish off with 600 wet  without rubbing through.

Hope this helps.

Apologies for the delayed update I ended up using Taylor's outer tailgate skin, it fitted well.

I did the exact same thing, I bought my pipe from the local R/C hobby shop.

Much better off doing it in 2k far less shrinkage with primers and fillers, will handle the heat from the sun and is as tough as nails. Unlike acrylic which is always moving and quite fragile. Acrylics are not what the used to be and no development has gone into them for the past 30 yrs.

1.00mm cold rolled mild steel. Rather than buy a whole sheet try a sheet metal shop, for some offcuts.

Clothes steamer from big w or the like works well about $50. Steam and heat alone won't shrink the material. The way to do it is heat then stretch the material into place sort of ironing the wrinkles out with more heat/steam, then when it cools it pulls a little tighter.

I used rare spares brake light light globe holders, front an rear. Only problem I had was getting orange/ white led globes that were short enough not to touch the lense on the rear.  Apart from that they are real cool especially the front as they are a very bright white so can be seen in the daytime and when the indicators goes of or on the white light kind of dims down then up and really easy to see. Also a decent light to reverse with which sheds a fair amount of light.

I have just finished wire my reverse lights, indicators and park lights on my FC ute. I left all the clear/white lenses in and used switch back led globes, indicators flash orange and reverse and park lights are white light. I did have to put a different flasher can that senses the load from the LEDs

Probably not a bad thing as plastic sometimes shrinks a bit.

I bought a set of Sam in brushed stainless, very nice look and perfect fit.

Great post, thanks for sharing. Great memories in the making.

I think I may have one, I will have a look today.

A good read. I think discs are a must up front. My ute had drums all around okay for a once a week drive but any more you soon get, well I did sick of anticipating other drivers moves. If you are planning long drives and you go the stock route expect it to be a long drive.

It looks like you aren't so good don't rush in good cars do come up. As already said if rusty stay away the more you dig the more you will find and might easily outweigh the purrchase price of the car to fix, same for paint.

Thank you for the information, especially the tip about the sponge.

Regards David

I am about to put the new headlining in my ute. My question is did the Utes have padding on the header panel the inner panel above the windscreen where the visors fit, b pillars and rear inner panel above the rear window? I know Toranas do but I am not sure of FCs.

Thanks in advance Dave

AST mechanical in Bellevue.

Regards David

Apologies if I have posted in the wrong place. After advice on what the price would be for complete FC steering column including steering wheel, horn ring, gear shift lever, indicator,mechanism, stork, steering box. All average condition.

Thanks Dave

Merry Christmas to all forum members.

Cheers Dave

Two springs on the top hinges.