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Technical Board / Modification Help / Re: Banjo Trutrac?
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on: August 18, 2025, 10:57:12 PM
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I've got a rebuilt HR LSD in the FB (yet to drive it in anger), and a trutrac in the BW78 in my EK wagon (which gets leaned on a lot at Eastern Creek).
The banjo tru-trac will set you back about $1600. Depending on whether what you find is repairable or not, you could be facing close to that much to have the HR centre rebuilt. That sounds sad, but from the diff work I have had done is not too far from the truth.
You will never kill the trutrac, but will be rebuilding the HR periodically.
The trutracs are a nice centre, but you would soon find the next weakness (coarse spline axles) if you wanted to lean on it. Probably not an issue unless you take it to the strip.
Cheers,
Harv
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7
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Technical Board / Restoration Help / Re: Wheel Cylinders - To sleeve or not to sleeve
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on: August 08, 2025, 11:08:43 AM
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A lesson I learned from Ardiesse - if it’s not a daily, then sleeve it. The cast iron ones, even new, don’t like sitting around, and form a light rust ring at the cup. They then leak - repairable by hone, but annoying.
I did the brakes in Grace’s ute, and took in all four to be sleeved. 6 months later they were leaking again. Pulled them, and found no sleeves. Brake shop apologised - they figured giving me new cylinders would be easier than sleeving. They then sleeved the new ones they had supplied - no more leaks.
Cheers,
Harv
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8
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Technical Board / General Technical / Re: Fuel Tank Sender - JB Weld Install
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on: June 26, 2025, 10:56:36 PM
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Careful with the sparks from the Dremel. Keep the area wet will help.
If you are lucky, their surface prep was bodgy and once you get under it the JB Weld may prize out in chunks.
If it’s only a pinhole or two, mebbe use JB weld again before the POR. Saves welding in the tank and all the kablooey risk.
Cheers,
Harv
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11
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For Sale and Wanted / Parts For Sale / VH24 brake booster
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on: March 15, 2025, 12:15:36 PM
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I have for sale a VH24 brake booster to suit FB/EK Holdens. From what I understand, these were also fitted to FX-FE and EJ/EH Holdens though with different bracketry/piping. This booster comes with brackets and piping to suit an FB/EK Holden. I ran this booster on my FB sedan for quite a while, but blew the diaphragm. I removed the unit from the car, and never got around to refitting it. It comes with a replacement diaphragm. The unit has the required brackets and brake piping to make this a near bolt-up job to an FB/EK. The unit has been refurbished before I bought it, and has the original NASCO plate and decal. As of a few years ago Powerbrakes SA was refurbishing these, including supplying replacement diaphragms (a modern off-the-shelf diaphragm with an adaptor to suit the VH24). I'm looking for $300. You are welcome to pick them up from Greystanes, western Sydney or I can package it up and send to you (free packaging, you pay the post).     The basis of my pricing: They don't sell often, and were pulling about $150 twenty years ago. Earlybitz has one for $450 in unknown condition, and then does the overhauls (as a changeover unit :shock: ) for $1500, but his pricing is nuts. EJ/EH reproduction brackets are available for $86 ( https://www.madfolk.com.au/ej-eh-vh24-b ... r-brackets). Cheers, Harv |
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14
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For Sale and Wanted / Parts For Sale / Grey motor Stromberg carburettor(s)
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on: March 06, 2025, 05:07:48 PM
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Time to make some space in the shed. I have for sale eight BXOV-1 Stromberg carburettors, to suit Holden grey motor. I did each of these up a few years back – cleaned, kitted, adjusted then stored away in a ziplock baggie. Note that these were cleaned out with thinners, nylon-bristled scrubbing and elbow grease. They are suitable for day to day use… if you want something shiny for a concourse restoration then this is probably not the carb for you. By the same token, they have not been acid etched until the vent tubes fall out, left full of blasting grit or had the finish wire-wheeled off them.
They are a mixture of list numbers (e.g. 23-3000, 23-3001 etc). To some people the list number won’t matter much, to other people wanting the exact number for their restoration it may be meaningful. If you are looking for a “matching set” to balance a set of twins or triples, then the list number is meaningless… what is important is that the jets, valves and idle tubes do match. I took good notes of what is on each carb, and am happy to swap out jets, valves or tubes to suit what you want (assuming I have the parts in my stash).
The way this will work:
a) Let me know how many you want (this should be a number between one and eight 😊).
b) Let me know if there are any particular list numbers or internals you want and I will check the stash.
c) I’ll send you photos if you want them, and work out the postage.
d) Price is $170 each, plus postage.
e) You pay, and I’ll pack and post them.
How I worked out the pricing:
a) A sexy replated carb from one of the commercial vendors would cost you around $460.
b) If you DIY one, a rebuild kit will cost you close to $100. It will have the wrong pump arm and wrong base gasket.
c) You might get a greasy, manky carb from a swapmeet or eBay for $50. That would be a crapshoot as to whether it was complete, or what jet/valves/tube it had.
d) I reckon $170 is pretty fair – that’s a swapmeet carb, an overhaul kit and $20 worth of labour to overhaul one (I work cheap 😊). That $20 buys you no risk of missing bits, and a Harv guarantee… if it don’t work send it back and I’ll refund you.
Cheers,
Harv
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15
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Technical Board / General Technical / Re: carby parts ..power JET
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on: March 06, 2025, 04:12:56 PM
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Yes - they were specific to engine and vehicle. Can you feel a difference if you put the wrong one in? Most of the time, probably not. For the greys:
Jet Diameter Vehicle
#63 0.0370” 48, 53 (132.5ci)
#65 0.0350” FB, EK, EJ (138ci)
#67 0.0320” FJ, FE, FC (132.5ci)
Cheers,
Harv
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16
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Technical Board / General Technical / Re: carby parts ..power JET
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on: March 05, 2025, 02:09:53 PM
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Yep, power bypass valves are sized in drill number. Larger drill number = smaller hole = less flow. Main metering jets are different - they are sized in thousands of an inch (larger number = larger hole = more flow).
Assuming there are only Holdens in the garage, the #56 has probably come out of a EH, HD, HR (149ci), HR (161ci), HD normal and economy excluding X2 (179ci) or HR X2 and economy (186ci). The #64 has probably not come out of a Holden, but would suit a grey (they were #63, #65 and #67 from factory).
From 1970, GMH used power bypass jets with two holes on the B-model carbs, and also on the WW's. Sometimes the holes are the same size, sometimes different depending on the engine they were going into. To complicate matters even more, from LC Torana and HQ Holden onwards, two stage power bypass jets were utilised, with the first stage opening at approximately 3-7” Hg (1½-3½psi), and the second stage at 10-12”Hg (5-6psi). From 1976 onwards, the settings were closer to 3-6”Hg (1½-3psi) and 8-10”Hg (4-5spi).
Cheers,
Harv
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18
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General / General Board / Re: Gear box overhaul kit.
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on: February 18, 2025, 02:17:21 PM
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Rob is right, most of it is reusable. Gaskets could be cut from sheet stock from Supercheap or similar. Some random parts if you want to make a go:
Selector Shaft Seal (NAK Australia) E062.100.25
Gasket Set Grey Gearbox FX-EK (Rare Spares) 7405896
Front Propeller Shaft Housing Seal (Rare Spares) H1067 or (NAK Australia) E137.206.25
Ball bearing (UBC Australia) 6206RSNR or (NTN Toyo Bearing Co) 6206NR
Ball bearing (UBC-Australia) 6205RS or (NTN Toyo Bearing Co) 6205NS
Cheers,
Harv
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Technical Board / Restoration Help / Re: Fc Grill rechroming
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on: February 12, 2025, 08:44:03 AM
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Some more data for your decision.
I had two components done around a year ago at Astor Metal Finishing here in Sydney.
a) a grey motor sump which had been chromed 6 months prior by another shop. It had a small blister (half the size of a 5c piece).
b) a new aftermarket pitman arm for a dragster steering box, about 6" long. It had also been chromed recently, and had accidently been plated over the splines.
The correction work was not done by the original chrome plater as he had recently passed away.
Task was to strip both units and rechrome. I delivered the parts to them and picked the finished goods up. The work was quoted as 6-8 weeks and took just over 8. The job required chasing, and I struggled to get calls returned. No blemishes were removed from the sump - any marks that were there were ignored. My bad for not asking them to correct small dings. The sump mounting flange (where the bolts go) was not polished/finished before replating and is rough. My bad for not requesting and paying for a "Summernats standard". The pitman arm recesses were not plated as the part was chromed with many others and did not receive sufficient current, though they offered to correct that. Cost for the job was $577.50.
Cheers,
Harv
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