Well as I mentoined in another recent post my welder has been going fine lately but now s%$t is happening again, this time the tips are melting down, I bought a new pack and did stuff all welding but melted all 5 tips over the weekend, is my technique going bad, do I have too much gas?, ive tried dropping the amps and it still happens, some tips melted back to the thread and others went a S shape, I will get another pack next weekend but I kinda need to know why its happening, it wasnt before.

just noticed you posted the power rating, have you tried switching the fronts and the rears at the amp output?

the triaxles or what ever you have in the back are probably more efficient with the sacrafice of sound quality and power handling, the dddrives up front would probably kill the rears if you match the amp to the speakers, not sure what the rms is of the dddrives but they probably have a rms rating on them, as you probably know, only match with rms ratings becuase the peak ratings are useless, the rears being cheaper full range probably have a max rating.
sounds like you need to get a descent amp upfront, if you are on a budget you could use a jaycar amp.
other things that might affect it is the mounting of the mids, are they in the door, are they screwed in tight and firm aginst wood or steel, just having screws into a door trim wont work very well, they need to be firm againts something more solid.

try it again, it should only take a minute, it only takes a couple of seconds with adsl

I have one of those crappy italian machines, its a 160 sip, the disposable gas bottles cause too much anger, dissapointment and stress, you try and conserve gas all the time and they keep running out half way through a job and cost a fortune for the tiny amount of gas they hold, I finally got a account with boc and now my life is more stress free, I bought a reg for $2 from the markets with no guage, it was in a $2 box at one of the tool stores, it has a slight leak but the cylinder has heaps of gas so I am not worried, I am still getting used to not spending $30 - $60 a week for disposable cylenders.
The mig gave constant dramas for the first 6 months but after bodgeying everything up it now is more reliable than when new, the feed system wich was crappy weak plastic broke a few times and is now full of bits of metal and glue and feeds perfect. the hose is pretty crappy to, you have to try and keep it fairly straight when welding and try to avoid getting it kinked, if you look at the better welders they have a nice hose made for work were as the italian ones have a hose that just does the job if you are carefull with it.
I got my mig for $600, it usually sells for $699, there was a mig at boc at the time for a few hundred more that looked like a much more reliable and easy to use machine.
I use a electronic auto mask, it was about $130 on ebay but now you see them as low as $70 and it makes learning much easier and reduces the risk of forgetting to cover your eyes. for gloves I use the $4.99 ones at bunnings wich are long gardening gloves, there are welding ones for $10 but they dont seem to have much advantage.
I use 0.6 wire from gasweld wich is only $9.90 a roll and seems to work well, dont buy wire from supercheap or bunnings, its to dear and the last one I had kept jamming up.

I was just thinking the same alex

thanks Alex, I'll send them a email regarding prices and see if I can get something sorted asap.

I would be finding a meatier manifold and sticking in a decompression plate, changing the sump and throwing it in.
or if you have a hot red head you could use that.

must have been a while ago.
Last time I was asked to pop the hood after a burnout the cop said " gee, it still has the old red motor"
dont know what he will say next time becuase I now painted my red motor grey.
I wouldnt worry about changing the colour now, when I painted mine I mixed black and white to a simular shade but was tempted to get some green tinter and my motor is a supercharged red.

another update, pic is a bit dark, here I have strung up the front end so I could paint it in one go but the gravity feed gun didnt like painting the bottom like this so I now need to do it in two go's.


Bad kitty, all my doors now have cat piss damage, one was ready to prime with filler in wich now will have to come out, now I know why alex microwaves them.




here I cut holes to put in the plate and nut for the seatbelts, not thinking, I forgot that I wanted the seatbelts low and proceeded to cut the holes up were the old belts were, after cutting the holes I took a step back and remembered so then I had to cut another hole down low and fill that top one. but then the bottom one seemed to low so Im gonna chop down the back legs on the front seats.





I lost a whole day making a flush pushbutton for the door,, sometimes I get to lazy to measure things and this button turned out a disaster, I couldnt really find suitable bolts being a sunday and the smooth part of the bolt was two long, if you tried to fit this button it would sit 1/2 a inch to far out, the spring has been left uncut here, they cost $5.50 each so i dont want to cut it till i know everything is rite but the button part of this will probably be heading for the bin. I had a magazine with a article on how to do this but I lost it.



Notice the way the key hole is cut out, this door is the drivers door of my old fe wich was a standard sedan, my seats, engine, dash and drivers door are all of the FE so now it will be like I am driving the two in one.

Man you cleaned up with a bargain on those skirts.

oops, cowL

cow vent lever.

pedal assemby in good condition

4 origional HR rims in good condition, not repro's.

fb ek tailgate without rust but good price.

good early seatbelts, condition and colour of webbing doesnt matter.

front end is now boxed under the snout.

here is a new transmission crossmember on the right to suit the changes under the car wich I had fabricated by jaymetals in seven hills for $40.
A bit of a missunderstanding led to incorrect measurements wich would leave the transmissoin sitting 8mm to low at the back so I might make a aliminium shim, I would have got them to redo it but it looked too pretty so I just went with it.

crossmember on the left is the old one, reason I had to get it done outside was becuase you need a massive press to fold 5mm steel, up till now pretty much everything else was made in my driveway.

I do not want to disturb the primer on top with heat, also I dont want to risk an outward dent on the top of the roof witch the paint scraper looks as though it might do.
I wish I removed this before I turned the car back right way up, or atleast before priming the roof.
I thought it would come of easy becuase parts were already starting to lift but it seems to be pretty stuck on.
Any know any magic trics for removal?

Thanks Steve, turns out the seller knows Johns mate gary and is going to drop the supercharger of to him and collect the payment from Gary who is going to send me the supercharger.
Think I might owe a few drinks if I ever run into a few people.

so is it on if its pissing down?

Although the 350 holley gives a increase in performance on a red with a single barrel stromberg the 350 holley could actually give poorer performance than the varijet,
A 390 on a 4 barrell manifold would make a good improvement but jack up the price.
if you have the block out of the car you could give it a new cam, bearings and lifters and get the dizzy regraphed.

If you cant get one, or you are not restoring completely to origional, I just got a peice of hose from bunnings.

yep, I used to sell chemicals to top tyres and one day I asked him what kind of stuff they did with steel wheels and it sounded like they were into doing top work.
you take the the next driveway after gasweld/charlestone and they are the 3rd unit up in the front row after hye class detailng and b&r brakes.